Engine Rebuild

[n4mwd]

Are your rods bad?

I'm going to be coming down that way tomorrow morning, would you like me to look at it?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Are your rods bad?

I'm going to be coming down that way tomorrow morning, would you like me to look at it?

My rods look good to me. I'm just ordering a used set because it's the most cost effective to get the piston I need + the bearings (which hopefully will have good clearance).

And thanks for the offer but I think I'm ok now. I don't think I could let anyone see my pig stide right now anyways.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

(which hopefully will have good clearance)

don't worry, they won't.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by alex.s

don't worry, they won't.

Nice

[n4mwd]

Anything is possible. But it is the cheapest way to get a set of pistons. Just one, plus new rings would be around $100. Even if you have to buy new bearings, you'll still be ahead of the game.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

So I got all the bearings/pistons/rings I need for the rebuild finally. I think it's about time I start rebuilding this thing. I am going to spray all the oil passages with carb cleaner like n4mwd suggested to make sure nothing is blocked first. Then I will start re assembly and post some pictures.

[n4mwd]

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Sprayed carb cleaner in the balancer shaft- all was clear.

Sprayed carb cleaner in the crankshaft- The passageways are all clear EXCEPT between the journal closest to the generator and crankpin #1. I sprayed many times and I'm getting nothing but fluid sprayed back at me there..... I'm not certain but I'd say that isn't normal.....?????

I don't think the manual shows the oil's pathway 100% but I'd imagine the pathway would all be shared in the crankshaft.

[alex.s]

so when i jam parts down tubes they aren't supposed to go in and have to push it out from the other side, i like to use a zip tie. the oil passages are small so you'll want a really long but thin zip tie. it doesn't damage the inside of the part. its strong enough that you can actually push things out. and its flexible enough that it maneuvers the abrubt direction changes in the flow systems. i don't understand why zipties work for so many things as well as they do, but it's magic.

[n4mwd]

The oil flows straight up from the center of the oil filter and into the center journal of the crank. From there, it goes to both crank pins via the center of the shaft. I'm not sure what you mean by "journal closest to the generator". That one is fed from outside the crank passage.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

The oil flows straight up from the center of the oil filter and into the center journal of the crank. From there, it goes to both crank pins via the center of the shaft. I'm not sure what you mean by "journal closest to the generator". That one is fed from outside the crank passage.

What I mean is when the shaft is sitting in the case I'm referring to the journal found closest to the left side of the bike. That's not connected to the rest of the shaft's oil passage? The journal on the far right is....

[n4mwd]

Can you post a picture of what you're talking about? Only the center bearing journal on the crank should have a hole in it. The outer bearing journals are fed from the case and shouldn't have crank holes. The two crankpin journals are fed from the center main bearing journal via the internal tube in the crank.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Can you post a picture of what you're talking about? Only the center bearing journal on the crank should have a hole in it. The outer bearing journals are fed from the case and shouldn't have crank holes. The two crankpin journals are fed from the center main bearing journal via the internal tube in the crank.

Correction- the journal on the far right which sits next to where the cam chain runs (1 of 3) has no holes, but the center and leftmost journals do have holes (2 of the 3).

A picture (not mine) can be seen here:



http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-07-Kawasa...90841068892%26

[n4mwd]

Did you remove your flywheel? The hole in the main bearing journal next to the flywheel goes through the crank and over to the starter clutch gear. But I don't think that is there on all years.

If the main journal bearing has an oil feed, then the case bearing should have a gulley down the middle of it. The center should have one too.

EDIT: I looked at several cases on ebay and none have the gulley bearings except on the center. Strange.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

EDIT: I looked at several cases on ebay and none have the gulley bearings except on the center. Strange.

Strange indeed! I'm not sure if it's something I should worry about but I'll run a ziptie through it anyways.

[n4mwd]

It could be that the starter gear isn't a priority bearing so it doesn't get as much oil. Without a gulley bearing, the oil can only get into the crankshaft when the crank rotates and the two holes line up. With the gulley bearing, the oil flows through the gulley and can get into the crank at all times.

That said, the most important oil passage is the one that goes into the center journal of the crank and then flows out to the two crank pin journals. Make sure that passage is clean and clear for sure.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

It could be that the starter gear isn't a priority bearing so it doesn't get as much oil. Without a gulley bearing, the oil can only get into the crankshaft when the crank rotates and the two holes line up. With the gulley bearing, the oil flows through the gulley and can get into the crank at all times.

That said, the most important oil passage is the one that goes into the center journal of the crank and then flows out to the two crank pin journals. Make sure that passage is clean and clear for sure.

I see...

Both of the cases I have in my bedroom only have the gulley bearings in the center as well.... I just need to make sure the passage noted previously is supposed to be separate (as it is in its present state) before I start the rebuild.

[n4mwd]

Yes, it looks like there are two independent tunnels inside the crankshaft - the center to the crank pins and the left side to the starter gear.

Since you have it all apart, now is a good time to follow all the oil passages and squirt carb cleaner through them to make sure they are all clear. Bottom end and top end as well as the transmission. After that, you should be ready to put it all back together soon.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Does anyone know what part # 92066 looks/feels like? I'ts the "Plug." I have this black/plastic piece that MIGHT be it but I'm not sure....

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/...FT-FORK%28S%29

2013-09-24 17.39.13.jpg

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Also, could someone take a close up picture of their impeller? I'm trying to find out what the head of the mounting bolts look like. There are 2 of them on the leftmost and rightmost tabs of the impeller housing. Or you could just tell me if they have a "7" marked on them.

[n4mwd]

By impeller, you mean water pump? I didn't see any "7" on the bolt heads.

I don't know what that plug is, where did you find it? Look down the shift tube and see if its plugged.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

By impeller, you mean water pump? I didn't see any "7" on the bolt heads.

I don't know what that plug is, where did you find it? Look down the shift tube and see if its plugged.

Ok are the bolt heads totally blank? Can you give me a reference to another bolt it looks like? That's he only thing holding me up right now besides the plastic piece shown above. That piece might not even be from my bike but I didn't see any plug on the shift rod....

And yeah the water pump

[n4mwd]

As far as what bolt goes where, you can usually figure it out by what fits and what doesn't. The parts diagrams are also good for saying what size they are.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

As far as what bolt goes where, you can usually figure it out by what fits and what doesn't. The parts diagrams are also good for saying what size they are.

I'm just trying to track down the bolts that held it in originally there's no reason they shouldn't be closeby but for some reason I can't find them. I know the size is 6x30 but I don't want to rob 2 bolts from another piece since they usually all have the same number/symbol stamped on the head.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

If anyone wants to help me out can you take a pic of their water pump on the left side of their ninja I just wanna see what those bolt heads look like. I might just go to the hardware store and forget looking for them but I know I have them - in my room too!

[n4mwd]

I'm confused. Why not just go out and look at your bike?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I'm confused. Why not just go out and look at your bike?

D'oh! I forget this engine is a spare sometimes! Whatever the case I bought some at the hardware store.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Ok now I just need to buy a good bonding adhesive for the case. Preferably from a local auto shop.... Any suggestions?

[n4mwd]

You pretty much have to use HondaBond. Its available at the Honda dealer for about $20. Make sure you don't get any squeezed into the bearing holes or the engine will burn up after a few miles.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

So I'm trying to find the markings on the crankshaft gear that mates with the balancer gear. I have found the balancer gear's marking but I cannot find the crankshaft one. I have the alternator bolt off but it seems to be held on by 3 more bolts?

Do I need a special tool to get the alternator off??
Is there a diagram for where the balancer gear and crankshaft should be in relation to one another??

[cuong-nutz]

I just use some "moto-seal" stuff I found at the auto parts store.

go to cycle gear and get a flywheel holder. Impact makes a whiz when removing the nut. There's a special tool to remove the flywheel/stator, but I just used a gear puller. Just make sure you don't damage the threads for the crank bolt if you use one.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Nm - Found the dot on the gear!

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Case is mated!

Took ~10 attempts because of the dowels on the transmission bearings and I also forgot to put the rigid oil line on the left side of the case. D'oh.

Great learning experience.

[cuong-nutz]

Now do it blindfolded

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Now do it blindfolded

I saw some engine paint at Pep Boys tonight and my mind got to thinking about some paint schemes. Not sure if you can paint anywhere on the outside...

[n4mwd]

Just remember that anything other than black is subject to getting grease stains on it.

[cuong-nutz]

You can paint on it. It just paint prep. I've used hi temp bbq pit paint with lotd of success.

[The_big_dill]

I have painted a little two stroke engine from my pocket bike before:



Although it does look nice, there is a lot more work (and patience!) needed if you want to do it right.

If you want the colour to be vibrant, you need to sand down the surface, those cooling find on my engine were really hard to get at with sand paper. If you want paint to stick, you need a primer, i didn't use a primer and the result is that the paint is chipping/scraping easily.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Cylinders de-glazed in what looks to be a nice crosshatch pattern. I just need to de-carbon these pistons and I'll but resuming assembly.

[n4mwd]

If the carbon is thick, the best way to get it off is with rubber gloves and easy off oven cleaner. Spray, wait 30 minutes, wash off with water, repeat until its clean. If its not too bad, you can also use cleaners like purple, etc. Just don't forget the rubber gloves. It can take months for the skin to grow back.