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Old March 28th, 2018, 11:22 AM   #1
Frank06
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Cylinder Head Cover Removal

Hi Everyone,

What's the deal with the water hose at the back of the cylinder head cover? Is it necessary to completely remove it in order to get the cover off? I've followed the service manual instructions (pretty much anyway) but see no explicit mention of this, although it is implied in the Reinstallation instructions. The other end is disconnected (at the thermostat housing) and my cover isn't moving yet. I don't want to tap it if that hose has to come completely out.

TIA
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Old March 28th, 2018, 11:39 AM   #2
mgentz
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It is best to remove that pipe when removing the cover. However, it should not be preventing you from removing the cover (i.e. a hard stop). There is normally some movement in the cover so that you can pull the pipe out, then remove the cover.
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Old March 28th, 2018, 11:47 AM   #3
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Thanks. I left the air valve suction valve on as it looks like there's enough room to slide the cover out the right hand side. Can you confirm this is okay or should I pull that off first?
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Old March 28th, 2018, 12:31 PM   #4
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The air suction system cap should be ok to leave on. Just an FYI, many people delete this.
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Old March 29th, 2018, 06:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
It is best to remove that pipe when removing the cover. However, it should not be preventing you from removing the cover (i.e. a hard stop). There is normally some movement in the cover so that you can pull the pipe out, then remove the cover.
I think I will remove it: does it pull straight up? I'm assuming it seals with an o-ring or something but don't want to force anything. My bike has 2100+km all on a racetrack and I don't think this has been apart before. (thanks)
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Old March 29th, 2018, 06:46 AM   #6
Frank06
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Also, the manual calls for some kind of liquid gasket; is this necessary? I don't think I've ever done this before on other bikes with a rubber gasket.
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Old March 29th, 2018, 07:09 AM   #7
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Yes, there are areas with uneven pressure. I like the Toyota FIPG material. Or Yamabond-4 (not 5).
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Old March 29th, 2018, 10:28 AM   #8
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Is -4 the non-hardening sealant?

And the pipe lifts straight up? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to mess this up!
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Old March 29th, 2018, 10:33 AM   #9
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Pipe should come straight up. There is only an o-ring in there to seal it, and the cover to hold it down.
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Old March 29th, 2018, 10:35 AM   #10
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Thanks very much. The job is a bit stressful as the bike isn't at home and I have a limited number of tools where I am. I'm finding myself buying stuff as I need it, lol. You can never have too many feeler gauges though...
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Old March 29th, 2018, 01:27 PM   #11
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Thanks for everyone's help, the bike is pretty much back together now. The first time is always the hardest.
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Old March 29th, 2018, 03:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank06 View Post
Hi Everyone,

What's the deal with the water hose at the back of the cylinder head cover? Is it necessary to completely remove it in order to get the cover off? I've followed the service manual instructions (pretty much anyway) but see no explicit mention of this, although it is implied in the Reinstallation instructions. The other end is disconnected (at the thermostat housing) and my cover isn't moving yet. I don't want to tap it if that hose has to come completely out.

TIA
My $0.02. Do not disturb the steel tube that rises out from behnind the cylinders. There is an "O" ring at the base of the steel tube and if you're careful not to disturb the tube too much leave it in place - unless it's leaking. If you do remove the tube completely be sure to have a new "O" ring on hand and carefully clean out the hole that the tube fits into. The tube pulls straight up and out. It is secured by a little tab that interfaces with the cam cover (cylinder head cover) and cylinder block. Completely drain your coolant (anti freeze) from your cooling system otherwise coolant will leak out the top of the tube and into the camshaft valley and down into your engine sump. You could probably drain 1/2 the coolant out and be OK - I would drain it ALL. If that happens it may require a couple of complete oil changes to remove the coolant from your oil galleys and sump - filter changes too. Ask me how I know.

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Old March 29th, 2018, 03:40 PM   #13
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I left it in place. Kawasaki used a similar system on my old Concours and I've always been very careful not to disturb anything. I thought I had to remove the tube to get the cover off but when looking closer I saw it didn't have to move. Thanks for your advice, good to confirm.
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Old March 29th, 2018, 04:38 PM   #14
Frank06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
...many people delete this.
Are there any threads where this mod is detailed that you could recommend? (referring to the air suction system)
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Old March 29th, 2018, 05:38 PM   #15
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https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=95023
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Old March 29th, 2018, 08:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank06 View Post
Is -4 the non-hardening sealant?

And the pipe lifts straight up? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to mess this up!
Yes, it thickens when drying but is still soft. Can adjust for slight movements and displacements later.
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Old September 4th, 2018, 07:17 AM   #17
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The first time I took the valve cover and put it back on again I had no real difficulties, however the second time I had a devil of a job getting it back on again, mainly because of the locator horn on the valve cover would not quite clear the hose clip even with it moved a few millimetres towards the right side of teh bike. There's a very precise geometry and once it goes, it goes, but I never quite figured it out oustide of trial and error.

For this reason I'd consider removing the hose entirely, but it's up to you. Some people leave the whole thing on, I've no idea how they do it.
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Old September 4th, 2018, 11:45 AM   #18
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Rotate hose clamp?
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