CVMA Race bike build - buncha questions

[cookiebug79]

I'm sure these have all been answered, but I'm becoming impatient searching, so if anyone has links straight away to answer my questions, that would be much appreciated.

I picked up a 2008 Ninja 250 the other day and I'm doing the full race bike build to the best of my ability. I'm planning to offer it up to friends to race the Femmewalla race series, and maybe the other ninja 250 classes. I'm not planning on racing, I just really want to do the build. I've got a motherload of questions since it's the first time I'm doing this. Also, since it's the newer generation than the one I'm familiar with, I'm not sure how much of this is stock and how much of this is the previous owner doing something a little silly. Here's what I've got for starters.

1. Does the clutch cable really go through the coolant reservoir? Is that how you racers all have it mounted? Or did you cut away the little plastic loop that holds it?


2. Is there a link for the carb hose routing for the CA emissions delete? I am copying what I did on the carbs for the pre-gen, but there's an extra hose that goes to the engine blowby (I think) and I'm not sure if I cap it or re-route it.

3. I know there are a bunch of airbox modifications, some legal, and some not. What is legal? What enables easier removal of the carbs? Is there a link?


4. Is there supposed to be goop around the joint from the airbox to the carb inlet boots? Also, which way to you have the boot screws facing in order to unscrew them. On this bike, one is an allen bolt and one is a phillips screw. Are they supposed to be mis-matched?


5. Do the race fenders need this fender bracket?


6. Where do you cut the kickstand and how do you trick the electronics to think it's up?


7. How do you go GP shift with the sprocket case installed? Or do you have to have it removed?


8. I need a new chain and sprockets. What gearing and chain do I want?

9. What clipons are everyone using? I'm only seeing a Woodcraft option and I thought there were more.

10. I thought there was a cost effective emulator option for the front forks but all I'm seeing is RaceTech junk. Is that what everyone is using?

11. Does the GSXR rear shock bolt on? I think there are supposed to be spacers on the bottom, but does the top fit or do I need to modify something?

12. Who's got slick tricks for how they set something up (choke cable, safety wire, etc) to make the bike easier to work on/repair?

13. I've read the rulebook about safety wiring, but I want to be sure I don't miss anything. Does someone have an exact list of every bolt they've safety wired? Also, pictures would be appreciated.

THANKS FOLKS!

[subxero]

so did you even bother to search for any of these answers yourself? Probably could of had most of the answers quicker that way than it took you to write the OP.

[cookiebug79]

YES! I searched Race, CVMA and some specific issues. I've actually got a **** ton of stuff answered already - keyless ignition, gas cap, some bodywork, carb, and engine stuff. But seriously I've sat on this forum for the last 2 days and I need to get some work done. I'm fine admitting that my searching skills suck, so just helping me find links would be great.

[alex.s]

1. cut the plastic loop at one of the edges so you can take things in and out but its still usable to hold stuff
2. the one that comes out of the top of the head can be capped
3. at cvma you need stock uncut airbox with snorkle intact
4. yes, outward, no.
5. yes
6. at the join to the frame as far up as you can get it. connect the two wires together. you can also disable the neutral sensor by connecting the wire to the frame so it thinks its always in neutral so you can always push the starter button regardless of other things.
7. cut it, or remove it.
8. unless you're going crazy on weight, 520. gearing depends on the track.
9. woodcraft risers seem to be generally the nicest as you can use them with basically any fairings. unlike the vortex and others that only work with cut fairings
10. you don't need emulators. but they fancy. $150 isn't that bad.
11. gsxr shock comes close to bolting on. you have to do some grinding. and you need to make different dog bones.
12. captive wheel spacers. captive rear brake mount. safetywire and silicone the axle adjusters. they like to fall off.
13. anything related to brakes. anything with water or oil behind it (including all the hose clamps, oil and oil filter bolts and oil cap) when in doubt, safetywire. if you can't to it to safetywire it without removing a bunch of ****, then silicone it.

[cookiebug79]

Originally Posted by alex.s

1. cut the plastic loop at one of the edges so you can take things in and out but its still usable to hold stuff
2. the one that comes out of the top of the head can be capped
3. at cvma you need stock uncut airbox with snorkle intact
4. yes, outward, no.
5. yes
6. at the join to the frame as far up as you can get it. connect the two wires together. you can also disable the neutral sensor by connecting the wire to the frame so it thinks its always in neutral so you can always push the starter button regardless of other things.
7. cut it, or remove it.
8. unless you're going crazy on weight, 520. gearing depends on the track.
9. woodcraft risers seem to be generally the nicest as you can use them with basically any fairings. unlike the vortex and others that only work with cut fairings
10. you don't need emulators. but they fancy. $150 isn't that bad.
11. gsxr shock comes close to bolting on. you have to do some grinding. and you need to make different dog bones.
12. captive wheel spacers. captive rear brake mount. safetywire and silicone the axle adjusters. they like to fall off.
13. anything related to brakes. anything with water or oil behind it (including all the hose clamps, oil and oil filter bolts and oil cap) when in doubt, safetywire. if you can't to it to safetywire it without removing a bunch of ****, then silicone it.

AWESOME! Thank you Alex!