Recommend a good torque wrench

[agentbad]

What's a good torque wrench that won't break the bank?

[Alex]

Some suggestions in these:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=87830
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17582

[jeffb502]

I have a 1/2" drive harbor freight cheapy that I've been using for my cars' lug nuts and I used for the rear axle on my 250 when I replaced the chain adjuster and readjusted the chain. It seems to do the job for me. I'm thinking I'll pick up a 3/8" of the same model once I need one, or maybe the 1/4" since there's a lot of overlap between the 3/8 and 1/2.

The 1/2" (20-150 ft/lbs) is $11.99 with a coupon. Click Here.

The 3/8" (5-80 ft/lbs) and 1/4" (20-200 in/lbs) are $21.99 right now so I would wait for a coupon on those.

A couple torque wrench tips...in auto shop my shop teacher told us to always use impact sockets, not standard sockets, when torquing lug nuts. I have applied this to everything I've been using the 1/2" torque wrench for. If I need an extension I also use an impact extension instead of a standard extension, and use the shortest extension that will get the job done. With click type wrenches I have read not to store it adjusted at a high setting, instead to store it mostly loosened. Don't use your torque wrench as a hammer or a breaker bar. Don't drop it. Treat it like the properly calibrated instrument you hope it is. Most come with a protective case...use it.

Another tip...I've read every now and then one of the Harbor Freight torque wrenches will be a dud, and won't click off at the desired torque setting. The recommendation is to test it on something you don't care about before using it for something important.

[250rr]

+1 for the Harbor Freight cheapy. Their micrometers are surprisingly accurate as well!

[jkv45]

If you go with a cheap torque wrench, get the size that puts the torque range you want to be most accurate in the middle of its working range - not at the extremes.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by jeffb502

...A couple torque wrench tips...in auto shop my shop teacher told us to always use impact sockets, not standard sockets, when torquing lug nuts. I have applied this to everything I've been using the 1/2" torque wrench for. If I need an extension I also use an impact extension instead of a standard extension, and use the shortest extension that will get the job done.

I've had good luck with the HF cheapie clickers as well: Own the quarter, three-eights, and half-inch versions. (Did break the ratchet mechanism in the half-inch drive one once: bought another one and converted the broken one to a counterclockwise torquing wrench).

But what is the rationale for using impact sockets, impact extensions, and as-short-as-possible extensions?

[jeffb502]

Originally Posted by dcj13

I've had good luck with the HF cheapie clickers as well: Own the quarter, three-eights, and half-inch versions. (Did break the ratchet mechanism in the half-inch drive one once: bought another one and converted the broken one to a counterclockwise torquing wrench).

But what is the rationale for using impact sockets, impact extensions, and as-short-as-possible extensions?

Maybe since they're thicker/more heavy duty, an extra margin of safety when dealing with strong forces (same with using a breaker bar, I always prefer to have an impact socket at the end of that instead of a standard socket)? Longer than necessary extensions I'd think would make it more likely to not be perpendicular, which could cause safety issues and maybe inaccurate torque measurements?

Either I never asked my auto shop teacher why or I just don't remember his explanation; I just remember those were the instructions. Most vehicles we would just use the torque wrench with a deep impact socket and no extension as long as the lug nuts weren't too deep in the wheel.

Edited to add:

Maybe it's also because impact sockets are 6pt, that way maybe a student wouldn't accidentally grab a 12pt standard socket and strip somebody's lug nut or slip off and bang knuckles while torquing something down?

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by jeffb502

I have a 1/2" drive harbor freight cheapy that I've been using for my cars' lug nuts and I used for the rear axle on my 250 when I replaced the chain adjuster and readjusted the chain. It seems to do the job for me. I'm thinking I'll pick up a 3/8" of the same model once I need one, or maybe the 1/4" since there's a lot of overlap between the 3/8 and 1/2.

The 1/2" (20-150 ft/lbs) is $11.99 with a coupon. Click Here.

The 3/8" (5-80 ft/lbs) and 1/4" (20-200 in/lbs) are $21.99 right now so I would wait for a coupon on those.

A couple torque wrench tips...in auto shop my shop teacher told us to always use impact sockets, not standard sockets, when torquing lug nuts. I have applied this to everything I've been using the 1/2" torque wrench for. If I need an extension I also use an impact extension instead of a standard extension, and use the shortest extension that will get the job done. With click type wrenches I have read not to store it adjusted at a high setting, instead to store it mostly loosened. Don't use your torque wrench as a hammer or a breaker bar. Don't drop it. Treat it like the properly calibrated instrument you hope it is. Most come with a protective case...use it.

Another tip...I've read every now and then one of the Harbor Freight torque wrenches will be a dud, and won't click off at the desired torque setting. The recommendation is to test it on something you don't care about before using it for something important.

Hey thanks a lot man this is probably the route I will go.

[Felipe the Ant]

because extensions twist, especially non impact ones. so you're torquing the extension and not the bolt

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by dcj13

IBut what is the rationale for using impact sockets, impact extensions, and as-short-as-possible extensions?

I always use impact sockets, but I don't see it as required unless your regular sockets are pretty bad.

As far as using a short extension or none at all, I think a long extension may alter the readings by making it harder to stay aligned exactly on the center-line of the bolt as you torque it.