It happened after 40,000 miles....

bdavison · December 26th, 2014, 07:52 AM

Yup, my clutch finally went south after 40,000 miles on the green monster. I was headed up the interstate, and rolled on it at 70 , and was rewarded with that familiar clutch slip bog down.

So I replaced it today with a new kevlar clutch pack and some upgraded springs.

I don't really notice too much difference between the old organic friction plates and the new kevlar friction plates...however the upgraded springs made a big difference.

The clutch lever is of course a bit harder to pull, but when you let off....it grabs instantly.

Gotta break them in a bit, and then really hammer it to see what it will do.

cuong-nutz · December 26th, 2014, 09:54 AM

What brand did you go with?

Hero Danny · December 26th, 2014, 10:01 AM

Looks like a fun post Christmas activity.

bdavison · December 26th, 2014, 10:30 AM

Barnett made the clutch plates and springs. I used an OEM Kawasaki cover gasket.

dcj13 · December 26th, 2014, 10:45 AM

Is a wet clutch a 2 hour or so job?

bdavison · December 26th, 2014, 11:56 AM

The longest part is soaking the friction plates in oil overnight....from there, its an hour tops.

bdavison · December 26th, 2014, 12:00 PM

Here's a simplified rundown of the process.

Soak plates overnight.
Loosen and move the clutch cable out of the way
Rotate the clutch lever on case and slide it out.
Remove the clutch cover.(drain oil first)
Remove the 4 spring bolts
Remove the springs.
Remove the hub.
Slide off old clutch plates
Slide on new clutch plates
Put the hub back on
Put new springs back in place
Put spring bolts back in, and torque to specs
Clean off old gasket off cover and crankcase
Put new gasket in place
Bolt cover back on
Add oil...
and yer done.

dcj13 · December 26th, 2014, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdavison

The longest part is soaking the friction plates in oil overnight...

Ah! The anticipation is the best part!

Good list/summary of the steps.. Thanks!

subxero · December 28th, 2014, 06:46 PM

what did the basket and the hub look like? any grooving? just curious

bdavison · December 29th, 2014, 11:35 AM

Yes, the basket did have minor marks from the clutch plates...

The basket is normally a powdery kind of finish, and it had shiny marks where the clutch plates had rubbed it a bit. No divots or grooves that would require replacement or filing. The splined part had no marks at all. So I just left it as it was.

In reality, the existing friction plates would probably be fine to re-use just with new springs. I need to mic them to see if they are still in spec, but they didn't appear to have much wear on them at all.

The metal plates had pretty obvious rub marks like a brake rotor, but no scoring or gouges. They are probably still serviceable too.

The springs were the only thing clearly shot and beyond serviceable.

I'm pretty sure I could have gotten away with just a new set of springs, but I replaced all the plates too. I kept the old plates as a backup.

spooph · January 7th, 2015, 05:38 PM

what mods do you have? My clutch is still fine after 60K....

Ghostt · January 7th, 2015, 07:40 PM

A common factory issue is the OEM clutch springs are soft/weak, for the reason is as a entry level bike they wanted the clutch easy to pull. The same problem the Ninja 500 has as well. This is the major cause of slippage, as the clutch is from a bigger Kawasaki, I know that Ninja 250 & 500 clutch pack was taken from a KZ1000, so it's very dependable, almost bulletproof.

This Kawasaki 13088-1013 PLATE-FRICTION is used on these models and components:

1981 KZ1000-J1 CLUTCH
1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD CLUTCH
1981 KZ1000-M1 CSR CLUTCH
1981 KZ1100-A1 Shaft CLUTCH
1981 KZ1100-B1 GPz CLUTCH
1982 KZ1000-J2 CLUTCH
1982 KZ1000-K2 LTD CLUTCH
1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR CLUTCH
1982 KZ1000-P1 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1982 KZ1000-R1 Eddie Lawson Replica CLUTCH
1982 KZ1100-A2 Shaft CLUTCH
1982 KZ1100-B2 GPz CLUTCH
1982 KZ1100-D1 Spectre CLUTCH
1982 KZ750-M1 CSR Twin CLUTCH
1983 KZ1000-J3 CLUTCH
1983 KZ1000-P2 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1983 KZ1000-R2 Eddie Lawson Replica CLUTCH
1983 KZ1100-A3 Shaft CLUTCH
1983 KZ1100-D2 Spectre CLUTCH
1983 KZ1100-L1 LTD Shaft CLUTCH
1983 KZ750-K1 LTD Belt CLUTCH
1984 KZ1000-P3 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1984 KZ750-K2 CANADA ONLY CLUTCH
1984 ZX900-A1 Ninja CLUTCH
1985 EN450-A1 454 LTD CLUTCH
1985 KZ1000-P4 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1985 ZX900-A2 Ninja CLUTCH
1986 EN450-A2 454 LTD CLUTCH
1986 EX250-E1 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1986 KZ1000-P5 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1986 ZX900-A3 Ninja CLUTCH
1987 EN450-A3 454 LTD CLUTCH
1987 EX250-E2 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1987 EX500-A1 EX500 CLUTCH
1987 KZ1000-P6 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1988 EL250-B2 Eliminator CLUTCH
1988 EN450-A4 454 LTD CLUTCH
1988 EX250-F2 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1988 EX500-A2 EX500 CLUTCH
1988 KZ1000-P7 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1989 EL250-B3 Eliminator CLUTCH
1989 EN450-A5 454 LTD CLUTCH
1989 EX250-F3 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1989 EX500-A3 EX500 CLUTCH
1989 KZ1000-P8 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1990 EN450-A6 454 LTD CLUTCH
1990 EN500-A1 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1990 EX250-F4 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1990 EX500-A4 EX500 CLUTCH
1990 KZ1000-P9 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1991 EL250-E1 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1991 EN500-A2 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1991 EX500-A5 EX500 CLUTCH
1991 KZ1000-P10 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1992 EL250-E2 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1992 EN500-A3 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1992 EX250-F6 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1992 EX500-A6 EX500 CLUTCH
1992 KZ1000-P11 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1993 EL250-E3 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1993 EN500-A4 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1993 EX250-F7 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1993 EX500-A7 EX500 CLUTCH
1993 KZ1000-P12 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1994 EL250-E4 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1994 EN500-A5 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1994 EX250-F8 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1994 EX500-D1 Ninja 500 CLUTCH
1994 KZ1000-P13 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1995 EN500-A6 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1995 EX250-F9 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1995 EX500-D2 Ninja 500 CLUTCH
1995 KZ1000-P14 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1996 EN500-A7 Vulcan 500 CLUTCH
1996 EN500-C1 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
1996 EX250-F10 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1996 EX500-D3 Ninja 500 CLUTCH
1996 KZ1000-P15 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1997 EN500-C2 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
1997 EX250-F11 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1997 EX500-D4 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
1997 KZ1000-P16 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1998 EN500-C3 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
1998 EX250-F12 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1998 EX500-D5 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
1998 KZ1000-P17 Police 1000 CLUTCH
1999 EN500-C4 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
1999 ER500-A3 ER5 CLUTCH
1999 EX250-F13 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1999 EX500-D6 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
1999 KZ1000-P18 Police 1000 CLUTCH
2000 EN500-C5 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2000 ER500-A4 ER5 CLUTCH
2000 EX250-F14 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2000 EX500-D7 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2000 KZ1000-P19 Police 1000 CLUTCH
2001 EN500-C6 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2001 ER500-C1 ER5 CLUTCH
2001 EX250-F15 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2001 EX500-D8 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2001 KZ1000-P20 Police 1000 CLUTCH
2002 EN500-C7 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2002 ER500-C2 ER5 CLUTCH
2002 EX250-F16 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2002 EX500-D9 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2002 KZ1000-P21 Police 1000 CLUTCH
2003 EN500-C8 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2003 EX250-F17 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2003 EX500-D10 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2003 KZ1000-P22 Police 1000 CLUTCH
2004 EN500-C9 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2004 EX250-F18 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2004 EX500-D11 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2005 EN500-C10 Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2005 EX250-F19 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2005 EX500-D12 Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2005 KZ1000-P24 Police 1000 CLUTCH
2006 EN500C6F Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2006 EX250F6F Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2006 EX500D6F Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2007 EN500C7F Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2007 EX250F7F Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2007 EX500D7F Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2008 EN500C8F Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2008 EX500D8F Ninja 500R CLUTCH
2009 EN500C9F Vulcan 500 LTD CLUTCH
2009 EX500D9F Ninja 500R CLUTCH

I upgraded mine when I rebuilt/restored the bike. The pull is a little bit harder, but bad.

In the picture below shows the the OEM springs are on the right, yellow stripe they had 27k miles on them, New aftermarket ones on the left, red stripe, side by side for comparison.

And I inspected my clutch friction, and steel plates as well, and all seemed good, I just cleaned, and deglazed the steel plates.

http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...gs_Replacement

nickjpass · January 8th, 2015, 10:10 AM

I'd like a new clutch. Don't actually need it though. I'll wait till mine gets crappy from banging down 4 gears lol

Ghostt · January 8th, 2015, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickjpass

I'd like a new clutch. Don't actually need it though. I'll wait till mine gets crappy from banging down 4 gears lol

My 2¢,

I would personally recommend doing the springs now, trust me.

As you can see Kawasaki used the spring, but the 88~07 only has 4, where others obviously use more.

Long ago when I have my FJ1100 I had to do the clutch, due to the OEM springs were weak, caused slippage, and cooked the clutch, I was assuming that the springs would be decent, I was dead wrong.

Now that's one of the first items I change with any bike I get now, cheap, easy to do, and saves money.

This Kawasaki 92081-139 SPRING,CLUTCH is used on these models and components:

1984 KXT250-A1 Tecate CLUTCH ('85 A2)
1985 KXT250-A2 Tecate CLUTCH ('85 A2)
1986 KXT250-B1 Tecate CLUTCH
1987 KXT250-B2 Tecate CLUTCH
1980 KZ550-A1 CLUTCH ('80-'81 A1-A2)
1980 KZ550-A1 CLUTCH ('82-'83 A3-A4)
1980 KZ550-C1 LTD CLUTCH ('80-'81 C1-C2)
1980 KZ550-C1 LTD CLUTCH ('82-'83 C3-C4)
1981 KZ550-A2 CLUTCH ('80-'81 A1-A2)
1981 KZ550-A2 CLUTCH ('82-'83 A3-A4)
1981 KZ550-C2 LTD CLUTCH ('80-'81 C1-C2)
1981 KZ550-C2 LTD CLUTCH ('82-'83 C3-C4)
1981 KZ550-D1 GPz CLUTCH
1982 KZ305-B1 CSR Belt STARTER MOTOR-STARTER CLUTCH
1982 KZ550-A3 CLUTCH ('80-'81 A1-A2)
1982 KZ550-A3 CLUTCH ('82-'83 A3-A4)
1982 KZ550-C3 LTD CLUTCH ('80-'81 C1-C2)
1982 KZ550-C3 LTD CLUTCH ('82-'83 C3-C4)
1982 KZ550-H1 GPz CLUTCH
1983 KZ550-A4 CLUTCH ('80-'81 A1-A2)
1983 KZ550-A4 CLUTCH ('82-'83 A3-A4)
1983 KZ550-C4 LTD CLUTCH ('80-'81 C1-C2)
1983 KZ550-C4 LTD CLUTCH ('82-'83 C3-C4)
1983 KZ550-F1 Spectre CLUTCH
1983 KZ550-H2 GPz CLUTCH
1983 KZ550-M1 LTD Shaft CLUTCH
1983 KZ750-K1 LTD Belt CLUTCH
1984 KZ550-F2 LTD Shaft CLUTCH
1984 KZ750-K2 CANADA ONLY CLUTCH
1984 ZX550-A1 GPz CLUTCH
1985 KX250-D1 KX250 CLUTCH
1985 ZX550-A2 GPz CLUTCH
1985 ZX600-A1 Ninja 600 CLUTCH
1986 EX250-E1 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1986 KX250-D2 KX250 CLUTCH
1986 ZX550-A3 GPz CLUTCH
1986 ZX600-A2 Ninja 600 CLUTCH
1987 EX250-E2 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1987 KX500-C1 KX500 CLUTCH
1987 ZX600-A3 Ninja 600 CLUTCH (ZX600AE046301-051066)
1987 ZX600-A3 Ninja 600 CLUTCH (ZX600AE051067-)
1987 ZX600-B1 Ninja 600RX CLUTCH
1988 EL250-B2 Eliminator CLUTCH
1988 EX250-F2 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1988 KX500-D1 KX500 CLUTCH
1988 ZX600-C1 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1989 EL250-B3 Eliminator CLUTCH
1989 EX250-F3 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1989 ZX600-C2 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1990 EX250-F4 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1990 ZR550-B1 Zephyr CLUTCH
1990 ZX600-C3 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1991 EL250-E1 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1991 ZR550-B2 Zephyr CLUTCH
1991 ZX600-C4 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1992 EL250-E2 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1992 EX250-F6 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1992 ZR550-B3 Zephyr CLUTCH
1992 ZX600-C5 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1993 EL250-E3 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1993 EX250-F7 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1993 ZR550-B4 Zephyr CLUTCH
1993 ZX600-C6 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1994 EL250-E4 Eliminator 250 CLUTCH
1994 EX250-F8 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1994 ZX600-C7 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1995 EX250-F9 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1995 ZX600-C8 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1996 EX250-F10 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1996 ZX600-C9 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1997 EX250-F11 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1997 ZX600-C10 Ninja 600R CLUTCH
1998 EX250-F12 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
1999 EX250-F13 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2000 EX250-F14 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2001 EX250-F15 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2002 EX250-F16 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2003 EX250-F17 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2004 EX250-F18 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2005 EX250-F19 Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2006 EX250F6F Ninja 250R CLUTCH
2007 EX250F7F Ninja 250R CLUTCH

Ghostt · January 8th, 2015, 10:35 AM

Here is an excerpt from the Wikipedia from the EX-500.com Clutch Springs Replacement page

Quote:

Our beloved FOG strongly recommends replacing the stock clutch springs. He says that he was losing about 500 RPM at redline to clutch slippage on the race track. With the stiffer springs holding tighter, the engine was now able transmit more of its power to the rear wheel.
[edit] Choosing Clutch Springs

The general recommendation over on the forum is to use Barnett aftermarket clutch springs for a 1985-1989 ZX-600, Part # 501-50-05055. You can view them online at the Barnett catalog, here:
http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...&clutch_cc=600
They can be ordered through your local dealership, or at a number of online sources. Here is one such online catalog:
http://www.exoticsportbike.com/6001.htm
Another option is the EBC CSK10 (see http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_..._springs.shtml). This kit isn't quite as stiff as the Barnett, but is better than stock and usually a little cheaper. The kit does include six springs, while the EX500 only uses five.

nickjpass · January 8th, 2015, 10:47 AM

I have a zx6r

Ghostt · January 8th, 2015, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickjpass

I have a zx6r

I would still order some Barnett springs, just check out their website and see what they offer for a HD replacement.

nickjpass · January 8th, 2015, 10:52 AM

will do

I would like a tougher pull, but I'm not sure how it would affect the slipping action.

Ghostt · January 8th, 2015, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickjpass

will do

I would like a tougher pull, but I'm not sure how it would affect the slipping action.

Here some links,

http://www.barnettclutches.com/coil-...sion-kits.html

http://www.barnettclutches.com/clutc...s-springs.html

Ghostt · January 8th, 2015, 11:28 AM

Here's a few more pictures when I did the springs for my EX500, two of which shows me compressing the OEM(30k miles) vs New EBC, there was a very notable difference between the two.

While the "SQUEEZE" test is not accurate, it does show, and you can feel the difference between the two.

Ghostt · January 8th, 2015, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickjpass

will do

I would like a tougher pull, but I'm not sure how it would affect the slipping action.

When you get the new springs, and when your swapping them out, do the pinch test, I'm pretty sure you'll feel the difference.

KawiKid860 · January 9th, 2015, 12:30 AM

My F4i clutch started slipping a hot summer day after a ton of 0-60 and 0-100 practice launches, then it stopped and never slipped again, so that was cool. Then my Mustangs throwout bearing blew up in September, car clutches are way more work to replace than bike clutches :/

nickjpass · January 9th, 2015, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

My F4i clutch started slipping a hot summer day after a ton of 0-60 and 0-100 practice launches, then it stopped and never slipped again, so that was cool. Then my Mustangs throwout bearing blew up in September, car clutches are way more work to replace than bike clutches :/

my clutch felt weird after I did a burnout. went back to normal after it cooled down.

bdavison · January 9th, 2015, 06:36 PM

I'm pretty sure the more times the clutch springs are compressed (eg, clutch lever pulled in) the less life they will have. My bike spends a lot of time in stop n go traffic during my daily commute to work, so I'm guessing all those constant clutch pulls are probably what wore out the springs.

I mic'd the old plates, and they are still in spec. So it was definitely just the springs that were worn out.

Now I'm considering dropping some high pressure springs in there, and watch that thing grab like sintered iron. Talk about a hole-shot. Instant torque if you can get the spring pressure up enough to where when you let out the clutch it presses those plates together like they are glued.

Obviously can't go too stiff a spring, or you'd probably bend a rod at the RPM's these things run at.

December 26th, 2014, 07:52 AM	#1
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	It happened after 40,000 miles.... Yup, my clutch finally went south after 40,000 miles on the green monster. I was headed up the interstate, and rolled on it at 70 , and was rewarded with that familiar clutch slip bog down. So I replaced it today with a new kevlar clutch pack and some upgraded springs. I don't really notice too much difference between the old organic friction plates and the new kevlar friction plates...however the upgraded springs made a big difference. The clutch lever is of course a bit harder to pull, but when you let off....it grabs instantly. Gotta break them in a bit, and then really hammer it to see what it will do.

December 26th, 2014, 09:54 AM	#2
cuong-nutz RIP Alex Name: Cuong Location: Houston, TX Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 2	What brand did you go with? __________________________________________________ HalfFast Racing Team Serving Greater Houston Area Riders:WFO Riders MotoHouston HPC CMRA Ride Smart Fastline Lone Star Track Days

December 26th, 2014, 10:01 AM	#3
Hero Danny Inline 4!!! Name: Danny Location: MA Join Date: May 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2008 CBR600rr, 1987 KLR 250 Posts: A lot.	Looks like a fun post Christmas activity. __________________________________________________ Be careful. Remember you are invisible

December 26th, 2014, 12:00 PM	#7
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	Here's a simplified rundown of the process. Soak plates overnight. Loosen and move the clutch cable out of the way Rotate the clutch lever on case and slide it out. Remove the clutch cover.(drain oil first) Remove the 4 spring bolts Remove the springs. Remove the hub. Slide off old clutch plates Slide on new clutch plates Put the hub back on Put new springs back in place Put spring bolts back in, and torque to specs Clean off old gasket off cover and crankcase Put new gasket in place Bolt cover back on Add oil... and yer done.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

December 28th, 2014, 06:46 PM	#9
subxero dirty boy Name: Joe Location: Johnstown, PA Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): I don't even know anymore?? Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '14	what did the basket and the hub look like? any grooving? just curious __________________________________________________ I love the smell of burning pre-mix in the morning I don't think I'm a lot dumber than you thought that I think that I thought I was once.

December 26th, 2014, 10:30 AM	#4
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	Barnett made the clutch plates and springs. I used an OEM Kawasaki cover gasket.

December 26th, 2014, 10:45 AM	#5
dcj13 Participant Name: Dave Location: South of Seattle Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much. MOTM - Aug '15	Is a wet clutch a 2 hour or so job?

December 26th, 2014, 11:56 AM	#6
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	The longest part is soaking the friction plates in oil overnight....from there, its an hour tops.

December 29th, 2014, 11:35 AM	#10
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	Yes, the basket did have minor marks from the clutch plates... The basket is normally a powdery kind of finish, and it had shiny marks where the clutch plates had rubbed it a bit. No divots or grooves that would require replacement or filing. The splined part had no marks at all. So I just left it as it was. In reality, the existing friction plates would probably be fine to re-use just with new springs. I need to mic them to see if they are still in spec, but they didn't appear to have much wear on them at all. The metal plates had pretty obvious rub marks like a brake rotor, but no scoring or gouges. They are probably still serviceable too. The springs were the only thing clearly shot and beyond serviceable. I'm pretty sure I could have gotten away with just a new set of springs, but I replaced all the plates too. I kept the old plates as a backup.

January 7th, 2015, 05:38 PM	#11
spooph ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Spooph Location: Golden, CO Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '15	what mods do you have? My clutch is still fine after 60K.... __________________________________________________ My therapist has 2 wheels and a seat. If you are ever in doubt to my tone, please refer to my avatar.

January 8th, 2015, 10:10 AM	#13
nickjpass #squid Name: nickypoo Location: Five Guys Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Track dedicated 2008 ZX6R Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jul '16	I'd like a new clutch. Don't actually need it though. I'll wait till mine gets crappy from banging down 4 gears lol __________________________________________________

January 8th, 2015, 10:47 AM	#16
nickjpass #squid Name: nickypoo Location: Five Guys Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Track dedicated 2008 ZX6R Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jul '16	I have a zx6r __________________________________________________

January 8th, 2015, 10:52 AM	#18
nickjpass #squid Name: nickypoo Location: Five Guys Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Track dedicated 2008 ZX6R Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jul '16	will do I would like a tougher pull, but I'm not sure how it would affect the slipping action. __________________________________________________

January 9th, 2015, 12:30 AM	#22
KawiKid860 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Murphey Location: Eastern Washington Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2002 Honda 919, 2004 Ninja 500R NAKED Posts: A lot.	My F4i clutch started slipping a hot summer day after a ton of 0-60 and 0-100 practice launches, then it stopped and never slipped again, so that was cool. Then my Mustangs throwout bearing blew up in September, car clutches are way more work to replace than bike clutches :/

January 9th, 2015, 06:36 PM	#24
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	I'm pretty sure the more times the clutch springs are compressed (eg, clutch lever pulled in) the less life they will have. My bike spends a lot of time in stop n go traffic during my daily commute to work, so I'm guessing all those constant clutch pulls are probably what wore out the springs. I mic'd the old plates, and they are still in spec. So it was definitely just the springs that were worn out. Now I'm considering dropping some high pressure springs in there, and watch that thing grab like sintered iron. Talk about a hole-shot. Instant torque if you can get the spring pressure up enough to where when you let out the clutch it presses those plates together like they are glued. Obviously can't go too stiff a spring, or you'd probably bend a rod at the RPM's these things run at.

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