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Old July 28th, 2022, 12:52 PM   #1
Patrizio
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Looking for help

Hello Everyone,

I recently purchased a first bike a 2001 Ninja 250. It was running great for about a week until one day it was hard to start. I had to hold open the throttle to get it to start. Once started, when I let off the clutch to cruise in to first it would just stall out. Finally got it going for a day or two and the same thing would happen. One morning I walked in to the garage after smelling gas and noticed a puddle of gas under the bike. Looked in the air filter and the bottom was filled with gas. Looked in to the carbs past the air filter and the left side was filled with gas. Right side was fine.

Took it to a shop and they cleaned the carbs twice, replaced some parts where the float bowls are and it is still having a hard time starting, you have to hold the throttle open to get it to start. They diagnosed further and found a rip in the vacuum slide (part # 16126-1200). Does this sound like it could be the issue? I am wondering if there is still something wrong with the floats after doing some research. I know nothing about carbs or bikes as this is my first one. Thanks
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Old July 28th, 2022, 02:36 PM   #2
ducatiman
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250 carbs are complex little buggers to get right. Yes, a ripped diaphragm def is an issue as are clean pilot and float circuits. Sounds like you'll be facing multiple issues, but not impossible at all to overcome.
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Old July 28th, 2022, 03:49 PM   #3
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One of the most aggravating things is a pair of carbs that don't work right.

I've seen way to many threads on this subject that go on and on chasing problem after problems. Some with no luck, wasting time and money, and eventually give in and send them to @ducatiman to refurbish them. Note I didn't say cleaning, he does a complete refurbishment, better than new in fact, because the set-up is done right.

Carbs are far from simple, but some of the times it's a small easy fix issue. But given the ages that these bikes are getting now, it comes down to replacing parts, O-rings, and check all the settings.

I don't discourage learning, but I do encourage knowing when one is in too deep. You've already paid your hard earned money, and still it's not fixed, which sucks for sure and the last thing you want it to spend anymore. But you still want a working bike, and ride.

I've always said, spend money right, and wisely the first time, because you don't have the money to spent twice.

We are here to help you of course no matter what you choose to do
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Old July 31st, 2022, 05:51 PM   #4
Patrizio
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Does anyone know why the following carburetor rebuild kit says, "Closed Course Racing Only"? or "off-road use only". Are the components different than stock? Would it be illegal to rebuild my carb for on road use?

https://www.allballsracing.com/26-1644.html

https://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-Car...cx_mr_hp_atf_m
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Old August 1st, 2022, 06:08 AM   #5
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fully concocted/added by their "legal team"

though I'm a proponent of RESTORING/reusing the original jets while replacing all "consumables" (orings, float valves). Note that the kit is manufactured in the Far East.....not Japan/Keihin original sizing, so variations may exist.

I'm already picking up that the pilot screws definitely differ from original.....as I've had issues with those pictured (in that 2 1/2 turns on originals vs copies actually differ) Again suggest restoring/reusing all original brass parts, sourcing a cheaper kit for its consumables (only)

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Old August 12th, 2022, 01:34 PM   #6
Patrizio
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Does anyone know what would need cleaning / rebuilding for the following:

Got my bike back from the shop and not exactly happy with the way things went. The bike came back with a high idle and the slightest adjustment to the idle adjustment makes the bike almost want to stall out - and then when you get it where you want it, after giving it throttle is is too low and almost wants to stall out. So it's as if you are constantly adjusting the idle every time you come to a stop. Could this be a needed adjustment on the hi / lo jets? I am honestly thinking of tearing down the carb and just cleaning it myself.

In case I am not being clear: When I got it back and gave it throttle, when the rpms dropped back down to idle it would idle around 3k. Tried adjusting idle knob and it brought the rpms down but it's like every time I give it throttle and let it back to idle it needs another adjustment. It's like every time you stop you'd have to adjust idle. Rough idle too. It seems like something did not get cleaned or something needs to be adjusted. Thanks
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Old August 12th, 2022, 03:59 PM   #7
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Carbs needs proper cleaning. Shop probably did nothing more than squirt some useless carb-cleaner spray through. There are still clogged fuel-circuits and jets, probably mis-adjusted floats and no syncing. Bike ran perfectly fine when it left showroom floor with factory fresh clean carbs. It will again when carbs have been restored to factory fresh clean.

To do that, you need to disasemble down to every last nut, bolt and individual component. Scrub everything with brushes and PEA fuel system cleaner, including secret hidden passages. Ultrasonic soak everything. Micro soda blast eveything.

Replace all rubbers: fuel-rail O-rings, pilot screw O-rings, float valves, float bowl seals. Adjust float-level with wet-test. Sync carbs. Also overhaul petcock while at it.

If you don't have all experience and equipment to do this, so much easier to send to ducatiman @ https://customcarbservices.com/ . Expert service, great prices and fast turnaround. Carbs will come back brand-new and bike will run like it just came off showroom floor!


Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; August 12th, 2022 at 06:19 PM.
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Old August 15th, 2022, 11:50 AM   #8
Patrizio
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OK, so cleaned the carbs myself and the bike is back up and running again. The only issue now is that when I go wide open throttle in gear the RPMS will rise but seems as if there is a lack of power. The bike accelerates but seems as if there is not as much power / torque as there should be. I am wondering if it is not getting enough fuel to keep up? Clutch slipping? hi / lo needles need adjusting? I put them at 2.5 turns out but I am not sure if the shop I had it at switched these needles out with aftermarket. I have no idea. If it is the needles, would this be a case where it is too lean or rich? I am assuming too lean? Thanks a lot.
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