Oil for OEM Air Filter

[sLick415]

Hey everyone,

Just picked up a used 2008 250r. I've decided to change the oil and oil filter, and clean the air filter before I start riding it. Just not sure what kind of oil I should be using on the air filter.

[ricomtzjr]

I just use PJ1 foam oil. Clean regularly, it's pretty tacky compared to manufacturer filter oil.

[indr]

Always used engine oil in the past. Pour some in a zip lock bag along with the filter. Squeeze it and move it around. Before putting it back in, make sure it's not runny when you compress it.

[sLick415]

Yeah, figured I should just pick up some foam oil. Let's say I do decide to use motor oil, will 10w work just fine? I think I remember the manual recommending 50w.

[Joshorilla]

I've seen people misting thier filters in WD40, I dunno if that's a good idea or not, throwing it out there.

[Boom King]

Originally Posted by sLick415

Yeah, figured I should just pick up some foam oil. Let's say I do decide to use motor oil, will 10w work just fine? I think I remember the manual recommending 50w.

I believe Kawasaki uses 30W oil on their filters. It will cling better to the filter than a thinner weight. My recommendation after using engine oil on my filter is to buy a spray specifically for foam air filters. Easier to use and less of a mess to clean up.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Boom King

I believe Kawasaki uses 30W oil on their filters. It will cling better to the filter than a thinner weight. My recommendation after using engine oil on my filter is to buy a spray specifically for foam air filters. Easier to use and less of a mess to clean up.

[IMG]http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages
/OG/0000_Maxima_Fab-1_Spray-On_Filter_Treatment_--.jpg[/IMG]

Be careful when using foam filter oil sprays (especially ones that are sticky, as is the case with Fab1). I use Fab1 on my Pipercross filter. It is applied only on one side of the filter (facing away from the carbs) If too much is applied it can actually clog the air filter, especially the stock one. The pores on the stock filter are much smaller than aftermarket filters. Most tacky sprays are hard to remove from the filter and need more than dish soap (Dawn) and hot water to clean well. The Maxima Spray-on Air Filter Cleaner works well and is strong enough to remove the sticky oil along with washing with dish soap (Dawn) and hot water.

[sLick415]

What other brand oils do you guys recommend?

[oblivion007]

Bump for more info plox.

[sLick415]

Originally Posted by oblivion007

Bump for more info plox.

But it was the first one on the list already

[oblivion007]

Originally Posted by sLick415

But it was the first one on the list already

Oh I practically only look at the portal page :P

[DaBlue1]

There are more than a dozen different brands of Foam Filter Oil, but to be honest they are more designed for dirt bike and hi-performance aftermarket filters. These oils serve as the dirt retentive for these filters because of the filters openness and porosity. The dirt sticks to the oil (instead of becoming imbedded in the micro pores) while still allowing a degree of breathability.

The air filter on the Ninja is not as open or exposed as most other foam filters so it's not really necessary for it to be saturated with a sticky type oil, that's why regular 30 weight is used as a dirt retention medium. This is not to say that other foam oils can't be used, they just need to be used and cleaned correctly or you could end up with a filter that does not breath as well as it should.

These are a few other brands of foam filter oil;

Yamaha Foam Filter Oil
Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
Kawasaki Foam Filter Oil
PJ1
Bel Ray
Maxima
Motul
Amsoil High Tack Foam Air Filter Oil
UNI
K&N
Repsol
No Toil

[sLick415]

Interesting. I guess ill stick with motor oil for now. Thanks!

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by sLick415

Interesting. I guess ill stick with motor oil for now. Thanks!

Keep in mind that Kawasaki recommends replacing the air filter at 2 years. So if you haven't replaced yours already you might want to consider a good stock replacement like Pipercross, WIX or UNI. These filters utilize the frame of the stock air filter and tend to slightly improve performance.

[sLick415]

Ahh completely forgot my bike is almost 5 years old now. I've been lookin at it like it's practically new with 3100 miles. Looks like I should replace more than just the filter. According to the manual, I should change out the fuel, radiator and brake hoses and "rubber parts of master cylinder and calipers." How critical is it to get these taken care of?

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by sLick415

.... According to the manual, I should change out the fuel, radiator and brake hoses and "rubber parts of master cylinder and calipers." How critical is it to get these taken care of?

Most rubber parts tend to dry out and shrink a little bit over time, then when you add corrosive fluids (fuel, brake, coolant) to the mix, you could end up with a problem. Mainly thinner (in some cases tighter) or deteriorated rubber can result, so these areas can be critical. IMO depending on the overall condition the bike is keep in can either shorten or prolong (to a small degree) the interval at which you start replacing parts. I think most of the stock rubber parts suck, but they could be worse.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by sLick415

Ahh completely forgot my bike is almost 5 years old now. I've been lookin at it like it's practically new with 3100 miles. Looks like I should replace more than just the filter. According to the manual, I should change out the fuel, radiator and brake hoses and "rubber parts of master cylinder and calipers." How critical is it to get these taken care of?

replace your all your fluids, after a while they start to loose their ability to do what they are supposed to; fuel,oil,coolant and brake fluid all need changing. As far as your radiator and brake lines go I wouldn't worry unless they have major cracks/leaking or your having a problem. I've seen them last 10 years with 150 000 miles travelled in that time.