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Old December 13th, 2018, 09:49 PM   #1
drbninja
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Ignition coil troubleshooting

So the service manual shows checking the resistances in the picture below.


but I can only get readings when I do it as shown below.


Am I doing it correctly? And if so, is the manual showing it wrong?
(I hope the pictures show.. im new to this)
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Old December 13th, 2018, 11:08 PM   #2
DannoXYZ
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no
no

what ranges are you setting meter to for each test?
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Old December 13th, 2018, 11:42 PM   #3
drbninja
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For primary winding its set to 200 and for secondary its at 20K.
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Old December 13th, 2018, 11:43 PM   #4
drbninja
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Its a bit confusing as the readings I am getting are in spec.
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Old December 13th, 2018, 11:56 PM   #5
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range for primary-winding measurement should be good.

If theses are within specs, then coil is good.

What's the problem you're trying to troubleshoot?
Do you have an oscilloscope?

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; December 14th, 2018 at 10:26 PM. Reason: typo fixed
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Old December 14th, 2018, 12:15 AM   #6
drbninja
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Troubleshooting no spark. I only have a multimeter. Waiting for parts to build a peak voltage tester to complete testing pickup coil and ignition coil. Safety switchs shouldnt be an issue as it cranks and battery voltage is good as it is being supplemented by another bike. I wish I had another cdi box to swap, but if everything else looks good I'll probably just buy a new one.
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Old December 14th, 2018, 02:01 AM   #7
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why dont you put stick coils on? it's easy and painless
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=241339
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...9&postcount=62
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Old December 14th, 2018, 06:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
range for primary-winding measurement should be higher than 3.2k.
That must be a typo.

Daniel, the manual is showing that the secondary winding is grounded to the iron of the coil. It's also showing the wrong way to measure the primary, so yes it appears the diagram is incorrect. My "base manual" for the pregens shows the measurement of the primary correctly, like your photo.

You're saying your coil secondary is not connected to the coil iron, so I don't know why there's a discrepancy. Many coils are made like the one you have, so it's possible that various batches that Kawasaki bought are not all the same, or it's possible the diagram is wrong there too.

If you're reading 2.6 ohms for the primary resistance and 13.8k (13,800) for the secondary, it's not showing a problem. The coil may still be bad and not showing that with resistance readings, but by this test method the coil seems to be OK.

If I had a spare coil I'd check it to see if it's like yours, with the secondary not connected to the iron, but I'm sorry I don't. Maybe check your other one and see if it's the same.
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Old December 14th, 2018, 10:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drbninja View Post
Troubleshooting no spark. I only have a multimeter. Waiting for parts to build a peak voltage tester to complete testing pickup coil and ignition coil. Safety switchs shouldnt be an issue as it cranks and battery voltage is good as it is being supplemented by another bike. I wish I had another cdi box to swap, but if everything else looks good I'll probably just buy a new one.
Tell us more on history of this bike and this problem. Also read this thread:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=300809

Any one of following can cause no spark (not inclusive, there are others):

- fusebox and fuses
- wiring between fusebox to ignition box
- ignition switch
- plugs
- plug wires
- wiring between ignition switch to ignition box
- wiring between ignition switch to coils
- wiring between ignition box to coils
- crank-triggers
- crank-trigger pickups
- crank-trigger wiring and connectors to ignition box
- ignition coils
- ignition box itself


Without testing each of these stages (follow the electrons), you might as well replace ALL parts above
Cheapo USB pocket-scope and 'noid light are better tools to use in this case.

Easiest to start at end and work backwards:

1. Plugs, test on other bike that runs
2. Plug wires, measure resistance end-to-end
3. Coil, measure resistance primary, secondary. Manually trigger spark test. Chances of both coils going bad simultaneously is extremely rare, pretty much impossible.
4. Measure for +12v at ignition coil
5. Use noid-light to test for grounding pulses at coil
6. Test for grounding pulses at ignition box
7. Measure for +12v at ignition box
8. Measure for ground at ignition box
9. Measure diodes
10. Measure stop switch (this is culprit lots of times)
11. Pull out ignition and main fuses to measure resistance across their legs
12. Measure resistance of wiring segments end-to-end
13. Measure impedance of pickup-coil
14. etc.

As quick test, ground green/black wire from ignition box and see if it runs

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; December 15th, 2018 at 09:22 AM.
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