Pretty sure I blew up a cylinder (?) - Page 2

ninjamunky85 · October 9th, 2014, 02:33 PM

Glad that there was nothing wrong with the engine and that you found the problem. Hopefully the threads in the head aren't too stripped and you won't have any more problems.

When I had this happen I was in the middle of a two and a half hour trip. Luckily I was able to coast to a stop in a gas station parking lot and I had enough experience working on the bike to fix the problem. Had to use the stock tool kit to take off the tank and find the problem.

Once I found the loose plug though and fixed it I've had no problems since. I'm not really sure why the plug popped out that day, and why it took over an hour of riding before it popped. I guess I didn't have it tightened all the way.

M42 · October 9th, 2014, 02:57 PM

Hahaha, it must be something about the nocturne blue ninjas

I'll try the carb cleaner + grease thing, sounds like a good idea. Thanks a lot for the help, everyone.

alex.s · October 9th, 2014, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkv45

If the old plug was not completely seated for a while you may carbon built-up on the threads below where the plug stopped.

I would take the new plug out and spray some carb cleaner on it and on the threads while you try to turn it down with your fingers. You could remove the other plug and put a mark on it (or the socket) so when you turn it in by hand so you know how many turns to expect before it is seated.

I've used carb cleaner before on plugs that had been in the engine for many thousands of miles and didn't want to come out. In that case you move it a little (until it stops) then spray carb cleaner on it, then thread it back in, then back out, then spray, repeatedly until it eventually comes out. Without doing that it would lock-up tightly after 1/16 turn, and most likely mess-up the treads if you used enough torque to continue to move it.

If that doesn't do it, look into a "thread chaser".

I wouldn't leave it how it is.

if you spray carb cleaner in your engine, you must change the oil after.

M42 · October 9th, 2014, 03:19 PM

Well nuts to that then, I just changed the oil 100 miles ago

If it's soot I should be able to just thread through it...

choneofakind · October 9th, 2014, 05:05 PM

FWIW, when mine did this, the plug was not loose to start, and it also threaded the whole way down to the crush washer. Then it blew out after a mile on a test ride.

Soooooo just saying, as encouraging as it may look, you're not out of the woods yet.

dcj13 · October 9th, 2014, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

FWIW, when mine did this, the plug was not loose to start, and it also threaded the whole way down to the crush washer. Then it blew out after a mile on a test ride.

You're a mechanical engineer. What the hell's going on?

choneofakind · October 9th, 2014, 05:16 PM

Alllls I know is that my plug blew out, wouldn't hold a plug anymore in the threads and needed to be helicoiled to have threads that worked.

Metal fatigue in the threads from compression cycles maybe?

dcj13 · October 9th, 2014, 05:19 PM

Ok. That makes sense: the threads got horked up.

alex.s · October 9th, 2014, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Alllls I know is that my plug blew out, wouldn't hold a plug anymore in the threads and needed to be helicoiled to have threads that worked.

Metal fatigue in the threads from compression cycles maybe?

incorrectly torqued more likely.

choneofakind · October 9th, 2014, 05:45 PM

I mean say what you want. It's possible. I never touched those before they blew out.

Ninjinsky · October 9th, 2014, 06:12 PM

A good rule of thumb for tightness is never more than would snap a pencil if you were using it as the tommy bar.
A bit less in fact on these small threads.
A new crush washer each time is a good idea if you can source a stock of them for your toolkit

jkv45 · October 9th, 2014, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

if you spray carb cleaner in your engine, you must change the oil after.

It wouldn't be a bad idea, but if you don't go nuts with it you should be fine. I'm talking about using just enough to get the threads wet, and not emptying an entire can or anything.

If any did get into the oil I would expect it would evaporate quickly (even at room temperature), or would burn-off immediately as the engine and oil temp rose.

M42 · October 12th, 2014, 12:45 PM

****ing **** ****** piece of **** **** stupid god damn ****

dcj13 · October 12th, 2014, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I mean say what you want. It's possible. I never touched those before they blew out.

Blame the previous owner or shop that worked on the bike!

dcj13 · October 12th, 2014, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M42

****ing **** ****** piece of **** **** stupid god damn ****

Nice picture! And helicoil time.

DIY or take it to a machine shop?

M42 · October 12th, 2014, 02:01 PM

No way am I tapping it myself. For me that's the line in the sand for DIY maintenance. I'll see how much it'll cost at a shop and if it's too much... maybe I'll just sell it for cheap. Been elbow deep in bike guts like all summer this year, completely sick of it. Thinking about moving up for a while now anyways.

agentbad · October 12th, 2014, 03:27 PM

Most places won't charge too much to insert the helicoil.

M42 · October 12th, 2014, 03:40 PM

Absolutely not. NGK CR8HSA. Engine end of the plug itself was fine.

Ninjinsky · October 12th, 2014, 04:03 PM

OK once the shock has passed and we get into solution mode the questions are

1 Helicoil vs eBay Head, the basic heads minus cams and rockers are around $100
2 Being on a budget, Can you get away with the old head gasket?
3 Is what people say about having to keep the bearing caps that came with the head true or is it more "overreaction theater" of which we see rather too much here (no names, no pack drill

)

(Many ebay heads do not have the caps and we know yours are good,)

It's counteruntuitive but the caps actually take most of the working pressure,not the head side because the forces are upward

Can anyone who has used bearing caps from a different head let us know if it went okay?

M42 · October 12th, 2014, 04:05 PM

I'll ask around and see what a shop would charge for helicoiling the head if I bring it in. That way I'll have all the parts that have broken in with the same engine, won't have to tow it to the shop, etc.

dcj13 · October 12th, 2014, 04:40 PM

If you're taking the head off, take it to a machine shop (not a motorcycle shop). Probably around $50... Buy a new head gasket! You'll be fine.

nbleak21 · October 12th, 2014, 05:04 PM

Yep machine shop, or just re-thread for larger diameter plugs.

choneofakind · October 12th, 2014, 05:38 PM

Truth. Machine shop all the way. Or ask around with your friends. If you have a friend who's a machinist in another industry, that's something they could do in their break times for a day or two. Simple for them.

MrAtom · October 12th, 2014, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Truth. Machine shop all the way. Or ask around with your friends. If you have a friend who's a machinist in another industry, that's something they could do in their break times for a day or two. Simple for them.

Yeah. If you're a total mooch.

M42 · October 12th, 2014, 06:07 PM

Search is giving me a lot of unrelated threads - would anyone happen to know of a build thread here/anywhere else online on how to remove the head? I only know how to take off the cover

Preferably something with a million pictures.

choneofakind · October 12th, 2014, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrAtom

Yeah. If you're a total mooch.

Point?

It's mutually beneficial. You get a small repair that requires the help of a machinist. They get $50 or a couple nice beers or a gift card for dinner out. I never said you shouldn't repay the guy/gal. I just said that the OP should ask around because it's not like the repair would require hours and hours of labor. It's a simple task that could totally be covered by a friendly favor.

I see nothing wrong with asking a favor and/or compensating a skilled person for a little help in their off time. Heck, a lot of union guys would do it on their clock time for you

choneofakind · October 12th, 2014, 06:19 PM

Hell, I could do it on the mill and it would take about an hour. But you don't want to ship a head to me and compensate me for my time. I'm expensive.

No need to be negative Mrsatom.

Ninjinsky · October 12th, 2014, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nbleak21

or just re-thread for larger diameter plugs.

Great no compromise idea and probably cheapest as well as insurance that it wont happen again.
Has any one done this and if so what plugs were used?

MrAtom · October 12th, 2014, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M42

Search is giving me a lot of unrelated threads - would anyone happen to know of a build thread here/anywhere else online on how to remove the head? I only know how to take off the cover

Preferably something with a million pictures.

You've probably already thought of this, but maybe this will help:

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Point?

It's mutually beneficial. You get a small repair that requires the help of a machinist. They get $50 or a couple nice beers or a gift card for dinner out. I never said you shouldn't repay the guy/gal. I just said that the OP should ask around because it's not like the repair would require hours and hours of labor. It's a simple task that could totally be covered by a friendly favor.

I see nothing wrong with asking a favor and/or compensating a skilled person for a little help in their off time. Heck, a lot of union guys would do it on their clock time for you

I assumed you meant a "Do this for me because we're friends" situation, because I've been on the short end of that A LOT before and it's total bullcrap. Sorry!

choneofakind · October 12th, 2014, 06:41 PM

No biggie, I also inferred a little more snark in your response than was intended, apparently. My apologies as well.

My school is in farmville, NW OH. I have friends who farm. Farmers are famous for trading favors. If someone does us a favor, we always try to repay them, even if it's just a simple, "we'll help you with X next time you need it" or "come over for dinner!", etc.

Everyone on campus who knows me knows that I do bicycle repair in return for a beer or two.

MrAtom · October 12th, 2014, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

No biggie, I also inferred a little more snark in your response than was intended, apparently. My apologies as well.

My school is in farmville, NW OH. I have friends who farm. Farmers are famous for trading favors. If someone does us a favor, we always try to repay them, even if it's just a simple, "we'll help you with X next time you need it" or "come over for dinner!", etc.

Everyone on campus who knows me knows that I do bicycle repair in return for a beer or two.

Yeah, here in California, there's a WAAAY different attitude haha.

dcj13 · October 12th, 2014, 07:04 PM

Take it to an automotive machine shop. Have them put in a helicoil or keensert whose inner diameter matches the threads of the correct plug.

I recommend avoiding saving a couple of bucks and just having bigger diameter threads put in, as you'd have to buy a weird-ass spark plug for the rest of time.

The miser pays the most.

fast1075 · October 13th, 2014, 01:59 AM

The truth about cylinder heads. The cam caps/cylinder head are align bored when they are made. IF you can use a cap from one head, and have it match correctly on another, it is either a miracle, or a marvel of production precision.

I hate it when IDIOTS take a head off and actually believe they need to part it down to the last fracking screw. MORONS!!!!! (For auction today we have a cam cap bolt from a good running XXXXXX, please view the video). The same idiots try to sell used rod bolts from a broken rod.

Guess there really is a sucker born every minute.

Back to the plug problem. I have fixed many stripped plug holes over the years. The best approach for you would be to have it done professionally, except the cost may outweigh the value of the thing at his point.

It is POSSIBLE to use a grease coated tap with the head still on. It takes some though (must be at TDC compression to make sure the valves are closed), and you run the risk of a piece of metal ending up stuck under a valve, but there is a good chance the crap will just blow through when you fire it back up.

And Heli-coil is definitely NOT the best repair. Timeserts, correctly installed are better than the original threads since it is a solid insert rather than a "spring". Be especially wary of "Helicoil" knock-offs.

M42 · October 13th, 2014, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fast1075

the cost may outweigh the value of the thing at his point.

Yeah, this is my #1 problem with this whole ordeal. Bike's value is already low due to beat up fairings, even though the bike itself works fine (until this BS happened) and was prob better taken care of than 99% of ninjas on the local CL.

jkv45 · October 13th, 2014, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M42

****ing **** ****** piece of **** **** stupid god damn ****

Ya - not good.

Pull the head and call around for a price on a Timesert like fast1075 recommended. Check the other one closely to decide if you might need it done also. A lot easier now than later...

Ninjinsky · October 13th, 2014, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fast1075

The truth about cylinder heads. The cam caps/cylinder head are align bored when they are made. IF you can use a cap from one head, and have it match correctly on another, it is either a miracle, or a marvel of production precision.

I hate it when IDIOTS take a head off and actually believe they need to part it down to the last fracking screw. MORONS!!!!! (For auction today we have a cam cap bolt from a good running XXXXXX, please view the video). The same idiots try to sell used rod bolts from a broken rod.

Guess there really is a sucker born every minute.

Back to the plug problem. I have fixed many stripped plug holes over the years. The best approach for you would be to have it done professionally, except the cost may outweigh the value of the thing at his point.

It is POSSIBLE to use a grease coated tap with the head still on. It takes some though (must be at TDC compression to make sure the valves are closed), and you run the risk of a piece of metal ending up stuck under a valve, but there is a good chance the crap will just blow through when you fire it back up.

And Heli-coil is definitely NOT the best repair. Timeserts, correctly installed are better than the original threads since it is a solid insert rather than a "spring". Be especially wary of "Helicoil" knock-offs.

True, nevertheless I would like to know if it (cap swap) has been done successfully by anyone here. I would think if the cams turn free on bolt up then you are good to go, I know the line boring gets it perfect but the jap tolerances might be that good. A key question is is "Do kawasaki sell caps as a discrete item or only the assembly?" If they do then there are grounds for optimism

I'm with you on the timeserts I have heard of HCs screwing out with the plug, which is why a larger plug recut also looks promising

choneofakind · October 13th, 2014, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fast1075

And Heli-coil is definitely NOT the best repair. Timeserts, correctly installed are better than the original threads since it is a solid insert rather than a "spring". Be especially wary of "Helicoil" knock-offs.

FWIW, my helicoil repair is going on 10,000 miles with lots of throttle time and engine braking, as well as several hundred miles of track time. Maybe it's not the 'perfect' solution to the problem, but it has been reliable so far without any regard for it's existence in my bike as far as my riding style is concerned.

I do completely agree though. Do not buy something that is not name brand for this application. IE, if you're looking to use a helicoil product, but a Helicoil brand part, same goes for Timeserts. This is not a place to skip.

M42 · October 21st, 2014, 08:42 AM

Well, it's been at @Finesse 's shop getting tapped... they finished the tap, fired it up, and it sounds awful. Either a shaving fell in or the piston slammed the plug or somesuch. Rip bike.

Incidentally, who wants a rolling chassis

flitecontrol · October 21st, 2014, 09:23 AM

Sorry to hear that. Is a replacement engine an option?

M42 · October 21st, 2014, 09:27 AM

Nah, it's just absolutely not worth it at this point. Bike worked well before this, but my fairings were traaashed, so it wouldn't have sold for much anyway. Maybe like 1200. No engines nearby, so I'd have to buy one off ebay, which is like 500 with shipping. I'll either sell it as a rolling chassis or tear it down and sell it part by part.

October 9th, 2014, 02:33 PM	#41
ninjamunky85 Que Buenos Son!!! Name: Ryan Location: Grovetucky, OH Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia Shiver 750, Husaberg FE 450, Ninja 300 (sold), xr100 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Nov '14	Glad that there was nothing wrong with the engine and that you found the problem. Hopefully the threads in the head aren't too stripped and you won't have any more problems. When I had this happen I was in the middle of a two and a half hour trip. Luckily I was able to coast to a stop in a gas station parking lot and I had enough experience working on the bike to fix the problem. Had to use the stock tool kit to take off the tank and find the problem. Once I found the loose plug though and fixed it I've had no problems since. I'm not really sure why the plug popped out that day, and why it took over an hour of riding before it popped. I guess I didn't have it tightened all the way. __________________________________________________ Don't do something because it's easy,.. Do it because it's not! If you aren't going forward, then you're falling behind. "Drive it like you stole it"!!!

October 12th, 2014, 03:27 PM	#57
agentbad ninjette.org sage Name: bob Location: Earf Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642	Most places won't charge too much to insert the helicoil. Last futzed with by agentbad; October 13th, 2014 at 04:10 AM.

October 13th, 2014, 01:59 AM	#73
fast1075 ninjette.org guru Name: harry Location: Central Florida Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250, 2004 Buell XB12s, Honda 110 Elite Posts: 332	The truth about cylinder heads. The cam caps/cylinder head are align bored when they are made. IF you can use a cap from one head, and have it match correctly on another, it is either a miracle, or a marvel of production precision. I hate it when IDIOTS take a head off and actually believe they need to part it down to the last fracking screw. MORONS!!!!! (For auction today we have a cam cap bolt from a good running XXXXXX, please view the video). The same idiots try to sell used rod bolts from a broken rod. Guess there really is a sucker born every minute. Back to the plug problem. I have fixed many stripped plug holes over the years. The best approach for you would be to have it done professionally, except the cost may outweigh the value of the thing at his point. It is POSSIBLE to use a grease coated tap with the head still on. It takes some though (must be at TDC compression to make sure the valves are closed), and you run the risk of a piece of metal ending up stuck under a valve, but there is a good chance the crap will just blow through when you fire it back up. And Heli-coil is definitely NOT the best repair. Timeserts, correctly installed are better than the original threads since it is a solid insert rather than a "spring". Be especially wary of "Helicoil" knock-offs. __________________________________________________ "They don't pay me enough to ride this thing!" Kenny Roberts after winning the Indy Mile on the TZ750 powered Grand National bike.

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October 9th, 2014, 02:57 PM	#42
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Hahaha, it must be something about the nocturne blue ninjas I'll try the carb cleaner + grease thing, sounds like a good idea. Thanks a lot for the help, everyone.

October 9th, 2014, 03:19 PM	#44
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Well nuts to that then, I just changed the oil 100 miles ago If it's soot I should be able to just thread through it...

October 9th, 2014, 05:05 PM	#45
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	FWIW, when mine did this, the plug was not loose to start, and it also threaded the whole way down to the crush washer. Then it blew out after a mile on a test ride. Soooooo just saying, as encouraging as it may look, you're not out of the woods yet.

October 9th, 2014, 05:16 PM	#47
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Alllls I know is that my plug blew out, wouldn't hold a plug anymore in the threads and needed to be helicoiled to have threads that worked. Metal fatigue in the threads from compression cycles maybe?

October 9th, 2014, 05:19 PM	#48
dcj13 Participant Name: Dave Location: South of Seattle Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much. MOTM - Aug '15	Ok. That makes sense: the threads got horked up.

October 9th, 2014, 05:45 PM	#50
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	I mean say what you want. It's possible. I never touched those before they blew out.

October 9th, 2014, 06:12 PM	#51
Ninjinsky ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: UK Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250, Yamaha RS200 (classic) Posts: A lot.	A good rule of thumb for tightness is never more than would snap a pencil if you were using it as the tommy bar. A bit less in fact on these small threads. A new crush washer each time is a good idea if you can source a stock of them for your toolkit

October 12th, 2014, 12:45 PM	#53
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	**ing ** piece of stupid god damn **

October 12th, 2014, 02:01 PM	#56
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	No way am I tapping it myself. For me that's the line in the sand for DIY maintenance. I'll see how much it'll cost at a shop and if it's too much... maybe I'll just sell it for cheap. Been elbow deep in bike guts like all summer this year, completely sick of it. Thinking about moving up for a while now anyways.

October 12th, 2014, 03:40 PM	#58
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Absolutely not. NGK CR8HSA. Engine end of the plug itself was fine.

October 12th, 2014, 04:03 PM	#59
Ninjinsky ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: UK Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250, Yamaha RS200 (classic) Posts: A lot.	OK once the shock has passed and we get into solution mode the questions are 1 Helicoil vs eBay Head, the basic heads minus cams and rockers are around $100 2 Being on a budget, Can you get away with the old head gasket? 3 Is what people say about having to keep the bearing caps that came with the head true or is it more "overreaction theater" of which we see rather too much here (no names, no pack drill ) (Many ebay heads do not have the caps and we know yours are good,) It's counteruntuitive but the caps actually take most of the working pressure,not the head side because the forces are upward Can anyone who has used bearing caps from a different head let us know if it went okay?

October 12th, 2014, 04:05 PM	#60
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	I'll ask around and see what a shop would charge for helicoiling the head if I bring it in. That way I'll have all the parts that have broken in with the same engine, won't have to tow it to the shop, etc.

October 12th, 2014, 04:40 PM	#61
dcj13 Participant Name: Dave Location: South of Seattle Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much. MOTM - Aug '15	If you're taking the head off, take it to a machine shop (not a motorcycle shop). Probably around $50... Buy a new head gasket! You'll be fine.

October 12th, 2014, 05:04 PM	#62
nbleak21 ninjette.org member Name: Nick Location: TN Join Date: Aug 2014 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250r Posts: 43	Yep machine shop, or just re-thread for larger diameter plugs.

October 12th, 2014, 05:38 PM	#63
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Truth. Machine shop all the way. Or ask around with your friends. If you have a friend who's a machinist in another industry, that's something they could do in their break times for a day or two. Simple for them.

October 12th, 2014, 06:07 PM	#65
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Search is giving me a lot of unrelated threads - would anyone happen to know of a build thread here/anywhere else online on how to remove the head? I only know how to take off the cover Preferably something with a million pictures.

October 12th, 2014, 06:19 PM	#67
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Hell, I could do it on the mill and it would take about an hour. But you don't want to ship a head to me and compensate me for my time. I'm expensive. No need to be negative Mrsatom.

October 12th, 2014, 06:41 PM	#70
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	No biggie, I also inferred a little more snark in your response than was intended, apparently. My apologies as well. My school is in farmville, NW OH. I have friends who farm. Farmers are famous for trading favors. If someone does us a favor, we always try to repay them, even if it's just a simple, "we'll help you with X next time you need it" or "come over for dinner!", etc. Everyone on campus who knows me knows that I do bicycle repair in return for a beer or two.

October 12th, 2014, 07:04 PM	#72
dcj13 Participant Name: Dave Location: South of Seattle Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much. MOTM - Aug '15	Take it to an automotive machine shop. Have them put in a helicoil or keensert whose inner diameter matches the threads of the correct plug. I recommend avoiding saving a couple of bucks and just having bigger diameter threads put in, as you'd have to buy a weird-ass spark plug for the rest of time. The miser pays the most.

October 21st, 2014, 08:42 AM	#78
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Well, it's been at @Finesse 's shop getting tapped... they finished the tap, fired it up, and it sounds awful. Either a shaving fell in or the piston slammed the plug or somesuch. Rip bike. Incidentally, who wants a rolling chassis

October 21st, 2014, 09:23 AM	#79
flitecontrol ninjette.org guru Name: Lee Location: Monroe, LA Join Date: Feb 2014 Motorcycle(s): Rebel 250s, Ninja 250s VN750s (currently nine total) Posts: 465	Sorry to hear that. Is a replacement engine an option?

October 21st, 2014, 09:27 AM	#80
M42 Wrench wench Name: The Stigette Location: DC/MD/VA Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415	Nah, it's just absolutely not worth it at this point. Bike worked well before this, but my fairings were traaashed, so it wouldn't have sold for much anyway. Maybe like 1200. No engines nearby, so I'd have to buy one off ebay, which is like 500 with shipping. I'll either sell it as a rolling chassis or tear it down and sell it part by part.