November 24th, 2010, 11:19 AM | #1 |
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Valves Job - lots of questions
1. do i have to remove the engine bolts on the right side to take off the cylinder head cover as the manual says? won't that remove the engine from the frame and make it a pain to put it back?
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November 24th, 2010, 11:24 AM | #2 |
‘94 Rider
Name: Colin
Location: Lewis Center, Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 1994 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F Posts: 83
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I can't speak for the new-gen bikes, but on my pre-gen the bolt you are talking about won't make the engine loose or come out of the frame.
If you haven't already came across this link, here's a good DIY on it with lots of pictures: http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008_n..._clearance.htm |
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November 24th, 2010, 01:19 PM | #3 |
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Thanks for the link. Better pictures than the manual.
~~~~ Q2. I'm trying to find top dead centre. I've been through several rotations of the camshaft. When the lines on the sprockets align like in this picture (http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008%2...t/DSCN0951.JPG), I see a mark on the timing inspection hole. BUT, the cam lobes are not pointing away from each other at this point. The EX is pointing almost straight up. And the IN is just about done pressing down on the valve lifter. They are NOT facing away from each other then the sprocket marks match up. So, technically TOP DEAD CENTRE is when the lobes are facing away from each other right? |
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November 24th, 2010, 01:32 PM | #4 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.
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don't yours is 2010? why are you on a valve job already?
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November 24th, 2010, 01:52 PM | #5 |
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Q3: :Facepalm: i've been turning the counter clockwise. what could have possibly gone wrong?
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November 24th, 2010, 01:53 PM | #6 |
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November 24th, 2010, 01:55 PM | #7 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.
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wow, 1 year over 7K miles? you ride a lot.
yeah the DIY of pic & text is a little confusing sometimes...why not do a DIY video while you're at it..? |
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November 24th, 2010, 02:00 PM | #8 |
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**** man. i don't think i have enough camera memory in my whole house to store a two day video of me swearing and doing things and going back and fixing them to be able to do something else properly.
i'll def film the next time I do this to make it easier on the future generations. |
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November 24th, 2010, 02:13 PM | #9 |
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okay. when the timing hole shows 1T, the cams are positioned as they should be (facing away from each other) for the left most valves. should i just go ahead and measure from here?
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November 24th, 2010, 03:33 PM | #10 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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November 24th, 2010, 04:39 PM | #11 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Cuong
Location: San Diego
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.
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November 24th, 2010, 04:54 PM | #12 |
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Another Q.
if the clearance between the cam lobe and the valve lifter is tighter than allowable range, I'd replace the existing shim with one of a small size, right? |
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November 24th, 2010, 05:55 PM | #13 |
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is it necessary to have the cam shaft covers on when rotating it via the rotation bolt?
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November 24th, 2010, 06:24 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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November 24th, 2010, 08:08 PM | #15 |
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I did. Tho a lot of it only started to make sense after I started doing it on my own. Reading it before doing the job itself didn't really cut it.
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