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Old July 2nd, 2009, 12:37 AM   #241
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you adjusting the correct things? blue adjusts vertical, yellow adjusts horizontal.

The next picture shows the back of the nose piece, which details the headlight lamp housing, after the low beam (left side) bulb was replaced and the rubber housing was modified. The blue and yellow arrows detail the adjusting screws for the light beams.
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 07:34 AM   #242
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ok, so I'm pretty much finished with the electrical things I was doing - as we need to wait on another garage door opener after the hubby fried the last one when soldering it... before I get everything buttoned back up ... if the cut offs are in the same location on the garage door, they should be pretty well aimed, correct?
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 09:48 AM   #243
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Turning the blue arrow (vertical) counterclockwise and won't go anymore. Very tight.
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Old July 2nd, 2009, 11:06 AM   #244
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Originally Posted by Ninjaboi57 View Post
Turning the blue arrow (vertical) counterclockwise and won't go anymore. Very tight.
make sure the bulb is seated flat in the headlight socket.

Kim- that's how I aim mine... on the garage wall marked with a piece of blue masking tape as a reference. You might need to fine tune once you get the bike on the road.
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Old July 9th, 2009, 01:33 PM   #245
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I installed my 10000k HID lights on my bike and noticed the headlights get extremely hot, along with the ballasts, is this normal?
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Old July 9th, 2009, 01:41 PM   #246
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Quote:
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I installed my 10000k HID lights on my bike and noticed the headlights get extremely hot, along with the ballasts, is this normal?
HID's burns cooler than halogen..you probably just never noticed how hot stock bulbs were before!
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Old July 9th, 2009, 01:52 PM   #247
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I guess that might be true, but still makes me kinda nervous. I let my bulbs burn for 10 minutes, when I touched the headlight "glass", I had to remove my hand immediately, that's normal?
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Old July 11th, 2009, 11:36 PM   #248
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DAMN, now I need 2 buy HID lights...will I ever stop spending $ on this little bike???????????
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Old July 19th, 2009, 01:18 AM   #249
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Thank God Gary already did this!!!!
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Old July 19th, 2009, 01:26 AM   #250
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Thank God Gary already did this!!!!
with this excellent diy, it wasn't too hard. like other diys on here, it eliminated a lot of the trial and error.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 10:00 AM   #251
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Hey guys I need your opinion. I'm installing HIDs on my Daytona. I have this nifty gadget installed that turns on both my headlights (both low/high beam) so that both are on at the same time, it just dims the high beam so appear as dim as the low beam. Anyways, I'm wanting to do the HID conversion, but you can't *dim* an HID bulb. So I'm having to put a Halogen bulb in place of the high beam bulb, and put the HID bulb in just the low beam.

I hope all the made sense. So what I'm asking is, is a 55W 4000k Halogen bulb going to match the 35W 6000k HID bulb in color? I wanted to stay away from the blue hue as much as possible.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 10:35 AM   #252
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it should. 4000K is the color temp which gives the bulb the characteristic hue. The higher the temp, the bluer the color.

may I suggest a 100w bulb for the highlight if you need a bit more light at night.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 10:48 AM   #253
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you want to get a 4300 K HID. The 6000 K will be more blue than your halogen .
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Old July 19th, 2009, 10:52 AM   #254
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I stand corrected... noche is correct. it won't match. why would you want a 6000K HID?
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Old July 19th, 2009, 11:26 AM   #255
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Thanks Noche. I was told that the 6000k would match the 4000k just fine, but I didn't feel comfortable with that answer so thats why I asked y'all.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 02:16 PM   #256
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Quote:
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Thanks Noche. I was told that the 6000k would match the 4000k just fine, but I didn't feel comfortable with that answer so thats why I asked y'all.
4300k, 6000k, and 8000k are supposed to be "standarized color"...6000k should always be 6000k no matter what wattage you get.
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Old July 20th, 2009, 09:45 AM   #257
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Since your trying to match HID to wannabe HID halogen bulbs (only a blue coating over the bulb), just get 6k halogen brand like nokya's. I done this on my IS350F 6k hid headlight and 6k halogen fog bulbs and they match pretty well.
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Old July 20th, 2009, 09:54 AM   #258
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Quote:
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Since your trying to match HID to wannabe HID halogen bulbs (only a blue coating over the bulb), just get 6k halogen brand like nokya's. I done this on my IS350F 6k hid headlight and 6k halogen fog bulbs and they match pretty well.
That is what I ended up getting (before I got to read everyone's post on here!) but nothing is installed yet. I had to order everything via the internet and local pep boys. The problem with getting a halogen for my high is the fact the connector is an H9. For some reason they are ridiculous to find. Not sure why Triumph made it that way either. I ordered the Nokya Arctic White Pro Halogen 100W 7000k halogen bulb. *sighs* I have to go beep my bike and see how much juice it's actually putting out and see if it's going to be able to handle that. I don't want to overload the magneto. It's going to be a trial and error process with my lights. I'll keep throwing parts at it until I'm happy.

(e-mailed ddmtuning and asked for their advice as well, still waiting for a response)

I am crash coursing all this electrical stuff too. That's why I was confused all the hue differences and the bulbs. I'm still trying to learn all this crap. I'm just a wrench monkey after all..
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Old July 20th, 2009, 09:55 AM   #259
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Wait off topic do you have an is350 or isf??? Or do live somewhere there is an is350f?? Also yea my wife has been pestering me nonstop to put in matching bulbs coz stock lights/fog lights are ugly as sin
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Old July 20th, 2009, 11:38 PM   #260
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Wait off topic do you have an is350 or isf??? Or do live somewhere there is an is350f?? Also yea my wife has been pestering me nonstop to put in matching bulbs coz stock lights/fog lights are ugly as sin
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It is a 350 with all "F" parts besides engine. Turbo'ing it soon so it will be faster than a stock factory ISF. Just waiting on paying off CC from Evo build. I agree with your wife, change those uggs out stat.
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Old July 21st, 2009, 09:49 AM   #261
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Thanks for the write-up! It definitely made things go smoothly, and I can now see clearly at night.

Only thing that held me up was that I didn't know how to take off the bottom part of the clear plastic case around the bulbs (first time installing HID on any vehicle). After about an hour of trying to "gently" remove them I just cut them with a large pair of shears.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 07:09 PM   #262
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Low beam is 35W 6000k HID, High beam is 100w 7000k Noyka Artic White Halogen.

What do you guys think of the setup? Thanks for all the input so far!





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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:07 PM   #263
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Soo I bought Garys bike and since have had 2 fuses pop. Now Gary said he never needed the new fuse, and I really have no clue what I have done, other than drain the battery, soo what should I do??? I was thinking about going and buying the biiger fuse, but negative sideeffects could/will this have??? thanks
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:34 PM   #264
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what size are the fuses that are popping? I assume it's the low and high light fuses?
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:44 PM   #265
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I thought there was just 1 fuse for the headlights it is 10 amps
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:48 PM   #266
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I thought there was just 1 fuse for the headlights it is 10 amps
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okay, so you popped the same fuse, twice?

have you done/added anything else to the bike since buying it?

when you jumped the bike, you did have the car turned off, correct?
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:55 PM   #267
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Yes the car was off and there hasnot been any other probe other than the headlights
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:57 PM   #268
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do the headlights work fine right up to the time the fuse pops?
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:00 PM   #269
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Yes they worked fine when I pUt the fuse in lastnight but doesn't work today
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:21 PM   #270
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you can try putting one size larger fuse than the 10A... which is a 12.5A or 15A.

some HID kits give you a 20A with their kits. you want the smallest one in there that won't pop. are you using both the hi and low lights and the fuse pops or does it pop even just using the low light?
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:28 PM   #271
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Yea I will try a 15 today.. Is it possible I damaged the Ballest with the jump??? Also I had to ride in the rain the other day ( had to ride back I should say). Uuugggg if I have to replace that stuff I'm gunna be mad
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:33 PM   #272
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do you start the bike w/ both the hi and low lights on? any particular time you notice that the fuse blows?

if you have damaged the ballasts, you can go back to the stock bulbs and the lights should still work fine. Did you get the original bulbs with the bike sale? If not, perhaps Gary still has them.

My thought is that if the ballasts are damaged, it's due to the lower and lower voltages they received as the battery drained down. Those ballasts don't like that.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:40 PM   #273
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yeah, i gave him the original bulbs as well. if you do end up taking off the HIDs, i had to cut the rubber boots a bit as shown in this diy. not sure how water tight they will be with the stock bulbs. may have to buy stock replacement boots. maybe not. idk.

try the higher amp fuse first. if those still blow, try the stock bulbs like kelly said. if the stock ones work fine and you want to keep the HID, then yeah, i would imagine you may have to replace the ballasts.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:46 PM   #274
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here are the replacement ballasts for the kit i have. they run $63.75 each. you would need two. http://f-sane.com/store/index.php?ma...products_id=26

which actually is kind of dumb because the whole HID kit costs $145 which would also include the two bulbs.

anyways, hopefully it isn't the ballasts that were damaged.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:49 PM   #275
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lol... you can get entire HID kits (2 bulbs and ballasts) for less than the cost of that one ballast now days.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 10:34 PM   #276
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it will blow the fuse if you try to start the bike with the high beam ON. done it twice so i make sure the high beam is OFF before even turning the ignition key. let the low beam warm up a little until current draw is stable. for me, i just wait 5 minutes before turning the high beam ON after start up

it has something to do with initial current draw with HIDs. if you notice, whenever you flip the high beam ON, the hi - HID will flash bright for less than a fraction of a second but eventually dims. by then, it will warm up to its full brightness. that sudden rush of current will blow your 10A fuse during start up with both HIDs in ON position
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 10:42 PM   #277
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ok soo I got a 15 amp fuse in her and turn on the lights and voahla.....they worked. I then flicked the brights repeatedly a bunch, then (as I told my wife ) I HAD to ride her around to make sure they didnt go out. I went for a short 15 min ride across base with the brights on (just trying to see the threshhold) and they still work like a charm. I even turned the bike on and off 5x in a row (prob not good for the starter). My guess is the fact that no two HID light kits are made the same, sooo it is quite possible that my kit uses a bit more power than say another kit uses??? mabye?? Well I will def keep everyone updated...but for now it seems that the "bandaid on the bullethole" is working.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 10:48 PM   #278
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that is good to hear michael. i still don't know why i ran fine with the 10 amps all this time and you blew it twice within a week of having it. lol. oh well, i guess it doesn't matter. ride safe.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 11:39 PM   #279
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answer the question... do you start the bike w/ both the high and low lights on at the same time?
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Old July 25th, 2009, 01:55 AM   #280
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I don't think so but now I run a mental checklist and manually put my thumb on the low beam portion of the switch before starting and I don't mess with high beams
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