Adjusting fork alignment

[Betlog]

This is a DIY for those interested in adjusting their forks so that they are straight.

Tools and items needed:
- Breaker bar, socket wrench (or similar)
- Torque wrench
- 12mm socket
- 8mm hex socket
- 2 yardsticks
- rear stand
- floor jack
- shoe strings (optional)

0) Optional: For added security, tie the front brake to the throttle using a shoe string.



1) Put the bike up on a rear stand (see kkim's DIY here). Tie the spools to the stands using shoe strings. This again is optional and only for added security.



2) Remove the fairings (see kkim's DIY here).



3) Lift the front of the bike slightly using a floor jack. This is to support the front suspension as you will be loosening the triple tree bolts (more on this shortly). Make sure you don't lift it up too high that the wheels are off the ground.
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4) Use a breaker bar/socket wrench (or similar) to loosen the triple tree bolts. The upper triple tree can be loosened using a 12mm socket and the lower triple tree can be loosened using an 8mm hex socket.
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P1010959r.jpg



5) Take one of the yard sticks and fit it just below the lower triple tree. Make sure its side is flush with the forks. Use the thick cable wire that goes to the instrument panel/lights to hold the yard stick.
P1010941r.jpg

Another view, notice how the stick is flush with the fork and how the black cable is used to hold it up.
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6) Take the other yard stick and place it somewhere near the upper triple tree. Make sure its side is flush with the forks. NOTE: On my bike, I have the top of the forks exposed as I am using clip ons. The fork tops is what I use to rest the second yard stick on. For those using stock handlebars, I'm assuming you can place the second yard stick just below the upper triple tree in front of the forks.
P1010955r.jpg



7) At this point what you want to do is basically check to make sure that both yard sticks are parallel with each other when viewed from the top. If they are not then your forks are not aligned. To align the forks, you will need to keep the top tree stationary while rotating the bottom tree. This can be done several ways. One way to do this is to go in front of the bike, hold the handlebars (or top of the forks if using clip ons) then using your legs, brace and rotate the front wheel in the direction you want to align.



8) Repeat steps 5 through 7 until the yard sticks are parallel.



9) When you are satisfied with the alignment, tighten the top triple tree bolts using the torque wrench set to 15 lb.ft. and the lower bolts set to 22 lb.ft. Put the fairing back on and you're done.

[kkim]

cool trick.

...and what prompted you to check this in the first place?

[Betlog]

Originally Posted by kkim

cool trick.

...and what prompted you to check this in the first place?

Thanks Kelly. I noticed my brake-side handlebar to be very slightly off... very. I am anal about symmetry . Oh and credit on the yard stick trick goes to someone else from a different forum (sadly I can't remember who/what forum).

Edit: Credit goes to Desert Dave of f800riders.org.

[Alex]

/linked to the DIY sticky thread

[SCREEM]

thanks for the DIY, My bike's triple tree is not perfectly straight while rolling...tis a bit to the right side, I also have the wobble problem, when I get a chance I will try straightening my forks and see if the wobble goes away. My bike has never been dropped.

[IF13]

What part of the bike should I lift the bike with? I'm a little uncomfortable using a jack on the header.

[NinjaShogun]

Originally Posted by IF13

What part of the bike should I lift the bike with? I'm a little uncomfortable using a jack on the header.

the easiest way ive found to replace a front end (forks, triple trees, stem) is to position a 6'-10' ladder (one that forms an "A" shape) over the tank (remove it to ensure you dont dent or scratch it), connect a tie down strap to either side of the frame an to the top of the ladder in a manner that allows you to use the ratcheting mechanism on the strap to lift your entire bike up off the ground. use a rearstand if you have one for extra stability. now you can loosen bolts on your triple trees, realign your forks, swap the entire front end, replace head bearings, or do what ever you need to do without fear of knocking your bike off of a pile of crap you haphazardly propped it up on.

[dontlet]

Just as an FYI, the service manual calls for a specific torque and tightening sequence on the upper and lower fork clamps:

Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolts first, next the stem head bolt, last the front fork lower clamp bolts.

Torque - Front Fork Upper Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Steering Stem Head Bolt: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32 ft·lb)
Front Fork Lower Clamp Bolts: 30 N·m (3.1 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)

- Steering 14-8 - p454

[dontlet]

I also realized after posting that I'm in the wrong thread.

The manual/specs I posted were for a '13 Ninja 300.

[daverdfw]

in order to do this, do you need to loosen up the bolts on aftermarket clipons? I have the woodcraft

[hfd1 tuner]

Always best to move handle bar clamps into postion after the top bridge is tight with stem bolt that way you are not binding top bridge against handle bar