Race Prepping - Slow Build Thread

[toEleven]

Originally Posted by daverdfw

thats why I went with the HRC kit. the bung supposedly has a way to release the vacuum.

I don't have the HRC kit, so please correct me, but I think I saw the bung listed as part number 17370-419-700. That matches the end cap I used, which is solid plastic. No venting of any sort. One of my spares:

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

How long is your tube?

Right around 10" or 26cm. Disclaimer: that length is simply convenient for me personally. It is not the result of any calculation. I've seen 6" and shorter on CBRs, and I'd guess the HRC tubing is also shorter than my current 10" (hahah). Perhaps someone should take a more analytical approach (presumably a handful of Honda engineers did just that)...but I'm okay with it just working, which it does.

Originally Posted by Floki

Can y'all post a picture how you have it hooked up on the ninja?

This post of mine in another thread has a pic. It's empty in that photo, and I switched to a different style hose clamp. The top end isn't shown, but there's really nothing to it. I can get you more if you need.

P.S. I feel like I'm thread-jacking, so maybe we need a dedicated HRC style reservoir thread?

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by toEleven

I feel like I'm thread-jacking...

Nice try! The other thread has the thread-jacking trophy in the bag!

[Dsheumaker]

No you guys are good, just link to the other threads you mention to mke it easier for others reading

So i starting on my valve adjustment but i ran into a roadblock, the battery died in my micrometer. I look at what size battery... and of course i have to order it, no where around here has one for it. Oh well more waiting...

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

... I look at what size battery... and of course i have to order it, no where around here has one for it. Oh well more waiting...

In Knoxville?!?
There's got to be a good camera shop or specialty battery store or computer/electronics department in a mall that will have that battery!

[choneofakind]

One more reason for a good old analog set of dial calipers! No batteries.

Hate to correct you, but what you've pictured are calipers. These are micrometers:

[tgold]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

In Knoxville?!?
There's got to be a good camera shop or specialty battery store or computer/electronics department in a mall that will have that battery!

Try a pharmacy. The chances of a hearing aid battery matching what you need are pretty good.

[tgold]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

One more reason for a good old analog set of dial calipers! No batteries.

I've had a mitutoyo digital caliper for something like 20 years and I think I've replaced the batteries twice.

Reminds me I have a digital tire pressure gauge that is my go-to track tool. It was given to me by a parts supplier in the mid-90's and it is still using the original battery. Amazing!

[Dsheumaker]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

In Knoxville?!?
There's got to be a good camera shop or specialty battery store or computer/electronics department in a mall that will have that battery!

Good call! I forgot about the specialty store we have, ill be running by there after work.

Originally Posted by choneofakind

One more reason for a good old analog set of dial calipers! No batteries.

Hate to correct you, but what you've pictured are calipers. These are micrometers:

Haha! thanks for the correction!

Originally Posted by tgold

Try a pharmacy. The chances of a hearing aid battery matching what you need are pretty good.

Nope its small like a hearing aid but not a normal hearing aid size. I found some that were the right diameter but not the right thickness.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

Good call! I forgot about the specialty store we have, ill be running by there after work.

Phone first! Make sure they have it!

[Dsheumaker]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

Phone first! Make sure they have it!

Pretty much on the way home, no biggie if they dont.

[Dsheumaker]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

Phone first! Make sure they have it!

So went to the store... Guy knew what battery number it was even though there weren't any marking on it haha. Pick one up, came home put in in the caliper and nothingness unless I pushed hard down on it... Looked at the contacts on it and there was some build up and the contact was pressed down flat. Got t working and tested the old battery since everyone said how the batteries last for forever... Well now I have a spare cause the Pringles battery works just fine now haha

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

So went to the store... Guy knew what battery number it was even though there weren't any marking on it haha. Pick one up, came home put in in the caliper and nothingness unless I pushed hard down on it... Looked at the contacts on it and there was some build up and the contact was pressed down flat. Got t working and tested the old battery since everyone said how the batteries last for forever... Well now I have a spare cause the Pringles battery works just fine now haha

Now to convert Imperial to Metric!

[Dsheumaker]

Haha not sure where Pringles came from haha ... Was supposed to be original haha

[Dsheumaker]

Not really sure how all the measurements are almost the same but there are different gap measurements... Anyone have any insight??

[bogiejr]

Keep up good build!

[csmith12]

Welcome Jon!

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

Not really sure how all the measurements are almost the same but there are different gap measurements... Anyone have any insight??

I am the sideways picture police. You are in violation of picCode #87495 - Improper Orientation. Please rectify this occurrence and refrain from further infractions.

Sr. Web Officer Smith
Badge #: ID10T

Keep the build coming and nice work.

[SLOWn60]

Hey David: ignore Chris ...or as he prefers; id10t. I usually read these threads while lying down so I appreciate the orientation as is!

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Welcome Jon!

Just been a reader up to this point. But, since this is my friend's post, he asked me to follow it.

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

Thats what i was thinking.... And if a few of the unneeded wires went missing also haha

Have you weighed that wire pack you removed to see what you lost?

[Dsheumaker]

Originally Posted by bogiejr

Have you weighed that wire pack you removed to see what you lost?

No but I can weigh the end result and have someone weigh their stock one. I'll do that sometime before I put it back on the bike

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

No but I can weigh the end result and have someone weigh their stock one. I'll do that sometime before I put it back on the bike

Just asking because I'm wondering how much weight savings you gain from this? Would seem very minimal but actual weight would more measurable. Same applies to removing stock master reservoir for the rear brake. This thing can't weight more than a pound even with fluid. One of your biggest weight savings would come from getting a lithium iron phosphate battery like Shorai or Anit-gravity and would be the easiest thing you could do. That would save you 3-5 lbs. Sounds like you have your own personal weight under control. No issues there. Go for the obvious rather than necessary safety parts.

[toEleven]

The old rear reservoir thread someone referred to is probably this one: "RACE" rear brake reservoir delete?

My stock rear res with the original tubing attached weighs 60g (no fluid, ninja 300). How much weight is enough to matter? Probably a good rhetorical question for each individual to ponder. @csmith12 is popular, so let's quote his take on the advantages of the HRC style res:

Originally Posted by csmith12

Yeeee Hawww...

Bottom line, one less thing to break or be in the way. Yep, depending on the rear shock, the hs/ls damping adjustment knobs would be behind the res mount. I had to move Floki's out other way to turn his hs damping just this weekend.

If I ever have a problem with mine, I will not fix it. I will just delete it.

+1 on the lightweight battery though. It may cost $100 or so, but it's still among the cheapest ways to shed that amount of weight.

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

No but I can weigh the end result and have someone weigh their stock one. I'll do that sometime before I put it back on the bike

Originally Posted by toEleven

The old rear reservoir thread someone referred to is probably this one: "RACE" rear brake reservoir delete?

My stock rear res with the original tubing attached weighs 60g (no fluid, ninja 300). How much weight is enough to matter? Probably a good rhetorical question for each individual to ponder. @csmith12 is popular, so let's quote his take on the advantages of the HRC style res:


+1 on the lightweight battery though. It may cost $100 or so, but it's still among the cheapest ways to shed that amount of weight.

That's my thought exactly. 60grams = 2.11ounce reduction. Hardly more weight than needed for a standard wheel balance. Heck, a full blatter would weight more than this. So, take a pee before jumping on track and you've shed more weight. So, I think going for the obvious like a battery switch yields far more reduction than these other things that affect safety. The diaphragm in the reservoir is very important!

[DmbShn41]

Originally Posted by bogiejr

That's my thought exactly. 60grams = 2.11ounce reduction. Hardly more weight than needed for a standard wheel balance. Heck, a full batter would weight more than this. So, take a pee before jumping on track and you've shed more weight. So, I think going for the obvious like a battery switch yields far more reduction than these other things that affect safety. The diaphragm in the reservoir is very important!

+1

Add in fluid weight and you have maybe a 1/4 lb....Go 1 and 2 before the race, to be safe.

[toEleven]

Originally Posted by bogiejr

...
So, I think going for the obvious like a battery switch yields far more reduction than these other things that affect safety. The diaphragm in the reservoir is very important!

I definitely considered not replying in order to avoid sounding as confrontational as I genuinely am, but my curiosity has won: Do you really believe race proven setups (e.g. the Honda Racing Corporation rear reservoir) negatively affect safety on a race bike?

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by DmbShn41

+1

Add in fluid weight and you have maybe a 1/4 lb....Go 1 and 2 before the race, to be safe.

Fluid weight of the DOT3 needed to safely operate the rear brake should be the measured amount that a top off to the min line on the original fluid line in factory reservoir. I have not done this but I would test if I wanted to do the conversion. This amount of fluid should have been calculated by engineers to compensate for worn pads and pistons at full extension. Obviously, a track bike would not be taken down to that point, so you could get by with a little less.

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by toEleven

I definitely considered not replying in order to avoid sounding as confrontational as I genuinely am, but my curiosity has won: Do you really believe race proven setups (e.g. the Honda Racing Corporation rear reservoir) negatively affect safety on a race bike?

Not at all, because they would have done the calculations to assure that there is enough fluid and no vacuum errors would occur. An amateur setup may not thoroughly take this in account; but, I'm merely stating that for a weight savings, this would be one of the last things to do. This would be more a cosmetic change and to have it more compact. Not saying it doesn't look cool

[csmith12]

I like your thinking Jon, leaving no stone unturned.

But oh dear... seems something I posted is being put in a context I didn't intend it to be.

Rear res delete?

Do not do this mod because it looks cool or for other cosmetic reasons
Do not do this mod thinking to save a bunch of weight
Do not do this mod if you are a new street rider or new track rider
Do not do this mod if your riding style is dependant on the use of the rear brake while cornering
Do not do this mod if you are not willing to put the required effort and work into keeping your brakes working at top performance with no leaks and enough fluid to fully cover the needs

Other than that, it's a fine mod for an experienced rider on a track only bike, as it's not rocket science. Do it because it's one less part to break, buy, replace, maintain and simplifies the system a bit. The few oz's weight saved is neither here nor there.

Lastly, check your race/track day org rules to ensure what you use to cap the tube will pass any "fluid tight" requirements.

[bogiejr]

Originally Posted by csmith12

I like your thinking Jon, leaving no stone unturned.

But oh dear... seems something I posted is being put in a context I didn't intend it to be.

Rear res delete?

Do not do this mod because it looks cool or for other cosmetic reasons
Do not do this mod thinking to save a bunch of weight
Do not do this mod if you are a new street rider or new track rider
Do not do this mod if your riding style is dependant on the use of the rear brake while cornering
Do not do this mod if you are not willing to put the required effort and work into keeping your brakes working at top performance with no leaks and enough fluid to fully cover the needs

Other than that, it's a fine mod for an experienced rider on a track only bike, as it's not rocket science. Do it because it's one less part to break, buy, replace, maintain and simplifies the system a bit. The few oz's weight saved is neither here nor there.

Lastly, check your race/track day org rules to ensure what you use to cap the tube will pass any "fluid tight" requirements.

In total agreement. This should be the thinking for implementing this modification. Not recommended; but doable.

[toEleven]

Originally Posted by csmith12

But oh dear... seems something I posted is being put in a context I didn't intend it to be.

Your post in the original thread followed a discussion starting with

Originally Posted by LittleRedNinjette

Maybe a dumb question but what are the advantages of doing this? Is it just something for the track? Obviously it looks better but i thought you needed that thing?

and followed with adouglas questioning the weight savings.
Apologies if you feel differently, but the context is damn near identical as I read it.

[csmith12]

Right... the context of the question is the same, but I meant the context of my answer. Your use of my comment is fine, no worries. My older post was just a passing incomplete comment, the one is this thread is a representation of my opinion and how I would coach someone trackside if directly asked the question.

Sorry for derailing this man's build thread because he is experienced enough for this mod by judging his videos and pics.

Back to your normally scheduled posting....

[Dsheumaker]

OH wow i have missed a lot on my little New years get away this weekend.

On the rear brake discussion. I believe that if you are able to change a brake line, change pads, and bleed the new line then you are mechanically inclined enough to do this mod. Just know that you will have a little more maintenance along with it, but like what @csmith12 said, it does simplify the system a lot. Oh and it does delete some weight, a little but but if you do enough of the little things itll add up.

I think that the easiest weight loss is the stock muffler for sure and then battery, i will be looking into getting a better battery before the season also.

So back on track here.... Nothing really has changed since the holidays, i hope everyone had a good one! Making a run down to pick up some used shark Skinz from a forum member down in ATL tonight. need to do the math and order the shims i need. Probably will order the rest of my maintenance items when i order the shims... then put everything back together haha

[Dsheumaker]

Ill probably be gone for a bit, in the process of moving out of my apartment and into my buddy's place. Huge perk though, my bike is in the basement of his house so no more committing to just work on the bike. Once i move and go on another small vacation ill get back at it since my first race/track day is towards the beginning of March!

[Dsheumaker]

Well i got to work on the bike a little before my week VA vacation starting on Friday, might get a little more done tonight.

Just slowly starting to put things back together... And for those that are going to zoom into these next few pics, nothing has been measure, aligned, bleed, or anything... just put it on there to start lining stuff up.
** i did measure when installing my forks, so those are aligned correctly haha

Roommate sent a pic of a package that i got today so i think that that is the front wheel spacer from a forum member, ill look his name up if thats what it is so you guys know where to get them. It for now... I need to order my shims so i can get the engine back i the bike. i mean i guess i can do it with it back in but that just sounds more difficult haha.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

Roommate sent a pic of a package that i got today so i think that that is the front wheel spacer from a forum member, ill look his name up if thats what it is so you guys know where to get them. It for now... I need to order my shims so i can get the engine back i the bike. i mean i guess i can do it with it back in but that just sounds more difficult haha.

You probably got them from @DCMoney I also got mine and it appears to be of great quality. I haven't installed mine yet, but I am excited to do it.

[DCMoney]

It was me, tracking showed it was delivered yesterday!

[Dsheumaker]

So not much progress has been made since i have been out of town, but i did install the front wheel spacer, man its so much easier to put the front wheel back on. @DCMoney, awesome product thanks!

I got home from my trip yesterday and worked on my bike a little while a buddy was lining up his new body work on his CBR. only thing i did was remove the shock and dogbones getting ready to do my GSXR shock this weekend.

I am going to order my shim kit finally so i can get my valves finished and the engine back in the frame. Then its all downhill from there

Heres the installed spacer
IMG_1040.jpg

When you need a triple stand and you just have a chair haha
IMG_1041.jpg

Shock removed, sitting like a chopper right now
IMG_1052.jpg


@csmith12 enjoy the sideways pics

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Dsheumaker

@csmith12 enjoy the sideways pics

Slow progress is better than no progress. And nice front stand. hahahahahha +1 redneck points

[HoneyBadgerRy]

I actually have a lift, but I always end up ghetto rigging it with something like a ladder and a ratcheting tiedown for the convince.