Do i engine swap(01 Ninja 250)

[okamihybrid]

I have an 01 ninja 250 that I've replaced the head gasket for and some smaller o rings, it has been giving me some trouble as I had it running for a few days before it died again. This is my first bike and I got it as a project to learn more about mechanics and internal combustion engines, so its multitude of problems isn't too frustrating.

However, I recently picked up two pregen engines for 50 bucks, one had a completely frozen piston ring on cylinder 1, but i was scrapping it for its rockers. The other, seems to be in decent shape, is missing some hoses and was pretty dirty, but has compression at ~180 psi on both cylinders. The one currently in frame has ~150 on Cyl 1 and ~125 on Cyl2 after dropping oil into the cylinders(i know i should replace the rings).

However the engine in frame has some bolts that snapped in the cylinder head, this holds the 3 and 4 cam shaft guide/retainers all the way down and since they are both missing this screw, I notice a small gap and I am guessing it's causing a problem with the rockers not engaging the intakes.

It's currently not starting on fuel, used to start with fluid now it will not. My only major concern with swapping the engine is I do not have the best facilities to support it. Any help into this problem would be appreciated, and apologies if the post seems a bit erratic, I can explain in better detail if needed.

[DannoXYZ]

Greetings & Salutations!! Let's see photos of your bike and tell is a little about you. Welcome to slavery known as "project bikes"!!!

1. do you have factory OEM service manual?

2. when you replaced headgasket, did you measure head and deck for flatness?

3. why didn't you placed snapped bolts #3 & 4?

When working on bikes, it's best not to skip steps, even if you have to wait months for parts to ship from Japan. Every single nut & bolt on bike serves purpose. Not only are there no shortcuts, it can be serious safety issue that'll kill you!! Not just quick & easy either, but slow, painful crimpling death...

Only thing you need for engine-swap is car-jack or ladder. I prefer ladder to hang and hold engine because it's more stable. Won't teeter-totter and fall off like on jack and frees your hands to line up mounting points and insert bolts. Imagine strap wrapping around and lifting engine rather than hanging bike.

[okamihybrid]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Greetings & Salutations!! Let's see photos of your bike and tell is a little about you. Welcome to slavery known as "project bikes"!!!

1. do you have factory OEM service manual?

2. when you replaced headgasket, did you measure head and deck for flatness?

3. why didn't you placed snapped bolts #3 & 4?

When working on bikes, it's best not to skip steps, even if you have to wait months for parts to ship from Japan. Every single nut & bolt on bike serves purpose. Not only are there no shortcuts, it can be serious safety issue that'll kill you!! Not just quick & easy either, but slow, painful crimpling death...

Only thing you need for engine-swap is car-jack or ladder. I prefer ladder to hang and hold engine because it's more stable. Won't teeter-totter and fall off like on jack and frees your hands to line up mounting points and insert bolts. Imagine strap wrapping around and lifting engine rather than hanging bike.

I have an online PDF of the service manual for the 88-7 Ninja 250.
I did check both sides for flatness and they were fine.

I did not replace the bolts because they are snapped off recessed into the screw hole, if I want to use my screw extractor I would need to remove the engine anyways as the frame blocks my tools, and I would need to have a vacuum running to prevent metal shavings from getting elsewhere in the engine.

I was planning on using a tire to support the engine when it drops and ratchet straps to the frame, If I do the ladder method would it be a similar process, just strapping the ratchets to the ladder, instead of the frame?

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by okamihybrid

I was planning on using a tire to support the engine when it drops and ratchet straps to the frame, If I do the ladder method would it be a similar process, just strapping the ratchets to the ladder, instead of the frame?

Yup. Even better to use block & tackle hoist as you get more leverage and finer control along with bigger range.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-18095-2-..._df_B002QFVRQ8

If you have garage beams overhead, you can hang from there. Gives you more space to work on bike without ladder in way.

[okamihybrid]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Yup. Even better to use block & tackle hoist as you get more leverage and finer control along with bigger range.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-18095-2-..._df_B002QFVRQ8

If you have garage beams overhead, you can hang from there. Gives you more space to work on bike without ladder in way.

alright, so should i go ahead and swap the engines? My only major point of contention was if something is majorly wrong with the engine that just cranking it to get compression wont tell me.

[DannoXYZ]

Compression certainly looks good! Definitely measure valve-clearances and adjust if necessary. So, so much easier with engine out of frame.

Only takes about 1/2-day to swap engine. So really worth it to get bike running.

[okamihybrid]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Compression certainly looks good! Definitely measure valve-clearances and adjust if necessary. So, so much easier with engine out of frame.

Only takes about 1/2-day to swap engine. So really worth it to get bike running.

I adjusted both engines for valve clearance before testing compression, and I am going to do the swap. However, the front sprocket has an 8mm bolt that is completely rounded off. I have used extractor sockets and it has done nothing. I would prefer not to remove the rear tire to swap the engine and just remove the sprocket and remove the chain.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by okamihybrid

I adjusted both engines for valve clearance before testing compression, and I am going to do the swap. However, the front sprocket has an 8mm bolt that is completely rounded off. I have used extractor sockets and it has done nothing. I would prefer not to remove the rear tire to swap the engine and just remove the sprocket and remove the chain.

Just drill through bolt with bit slightly smaller than hole. Head will drop off when shank of bolt is gone. Then you can remove sprocket retainer and sprocket. Pick out leftover threads from sprocket. Replace bolts with torx-headed ones for better grip. Use some anti-seize and torque-wrench to install. Have fun!