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Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:20 PM   #1
toomanyproblems
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just cleaned carb now it bogs down and dies

My bike will idle but when I give it throttle between 2 and 5000 rpms it bogs down and dies anyone got any ideas?


I'm stuck with no solutions
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomanyproblems View Post
I'm stuck with no solutions
ORLY?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=100215
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85023
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66131
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26887
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:46 PM   #3
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I feel like every day for the past 2 weeks there has been a "HELP I DID SOMETHING THAT I WASN'T ENTIRELY SURE HOW TO DO, AND NOW MY BIKE STALLS!" thread.
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by toomanyproblems View Post
.......I'm stuck with no solutions
Welcome to the site, Richard !!!

Could you give us some story about the bike's performance before the service?

Did you do the work yourself?
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 08:36 PM   #5
toomanyproblems
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it ran a little rich now its just running really rich back fires with flames and bogs down and dies idles fine it has a muzzy exhaust on left side its an 03 sorry about the punctuation or lack there of
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 08:48 PM   #6
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If you have a clear hose handy, then i would check the fuel level inside the carb first.
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 09:19 PM   #7
toomanyproblems
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we turned the fuel mixture all the way up and it no longer bogs down it just wont get going is that to lean or to little rich new to working on motorcycles
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 09:26 PM   #8
toomanyproblems
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i just open my gas tank and started the bike, after a few seconds it would i gave it gas and it worked any solutions?
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 09:53 PM   #9
toomanyproblems
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bike bogs with any throttle given and backfire with actual fire any ideas
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 09:58 PM   #10
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Did you turn the mixture screws all the way in then 2.5 turns out?
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Old January 4th, 2013, 05:27 AM   #11
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it ran a little rich now its just running really rich back fires with flames and bogs down and dies idles fine it has a muzzy exhaust on left side its an 03 sorry about the punctuation or lack there of
Ok, about that Muzzy exhaust. Did you rejet the carb for the Muzzy? And Do you mean that the bike has a single exhaust? With a 2 into 1 header? You also said it was on the "left" side which is strange because those kits are normally installed on the right side.
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Old January 4th, 2013, 08:18 AM   #12
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Yes it's a two into one and your correct about the side it's on the right, it has been rejetted I'm starting to think it is a vacuum leak maybe
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Old January 4th, 2013, 08:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Yes it's a two into one and your correct about the side it's on the right, it has been rejetted I'm starting to think it is a vacuum leak maybe
Try covering the mixture screw holes with you finger. Sometimes the leak if they aren't perfect.
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Old January 5th, 2013, 09:57 AM   #14
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Try covering the mixture screw holes with you finger. Sometimes the leak if they aren't perfect.
Curious if OP tried this?

N4MWD- How many revolutions do those idle mix screws have before they fall out?
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Old January 5th, 2013, 12:42 PM   #15
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Curious if OP tried this?

N4MWD- How many revolutions do those idle mix screws have before they fall out?
Not sure, but what happens is that the gasket in there gets loose or leaky. The OEM carbs have a metal plug over the holes.
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Old January 26th, 2013, 03:25 PM   #16
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Thread resurrected. What happened?????????????
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Old January 26th, 2013, 03:46 PM   #17
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spark plug fouled with carb cleaner
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Old January 27th, 2013, 11:09 AM   #18
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Thread resurrected. What happened?????????????
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spark plug fouled with carb cleaner
What kind of carb cleaner was used?
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Old February 7th, 2013, 10:55 AM   #19
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carb cleaners suck in general. ive seen a few brands eat o-rings a few seconds after being sprayed with it. stick to manual cleanings, its good to know how to take them apart anyways.
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Old February 7th, 2013, 12:23 PM   #20
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 04:11 PM   #21
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"Missing needle seats"

old thread, but here goes anyway...

not possible....seats are pressed in, no? explain?
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 04:37 PM   #22
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Seats are not pressed in. They're held in place by the main jet. If you unscrew the main jet, the needle seats come out.
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Old April 23rd, 2015, 05:40 PM   #23
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Seats are not pressed in. They're held in place by the main jet. If you unscrew the main jet, the needle seats come out.
you are incorrect

the main jet screws into (and is held) by the *emulsion tube* (aka main jet holder, main nozzle whatever you'd like to call it)

the (float valve) *seats* are, in fact, pressed in

I believe you are referring to needle *jets*, which reside under the emulsion tubes.
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Old April 24th, 2015, 06:30 AM   #24
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you are incorrect

the main jet screws into (and is held) by the *emulsion tube* (aka main jet holder, main nozzle whatever you'd like to call it)

the (float valve) *seats* are, in fact, pressed in

I believe you are referring to needle *jets*, which reside under the emulsion tubes.
So I don't think I've ever actually taken my jet collars (silver pieces) out. I've taken the main jets out lots of times but the jet collars don't seem to want to come out.

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Old April 25th, 2015, 03:19 PM   #25
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agent-

by silver pieces you are referring to needle jets....after removing emulsion tubes (aka main jet holders) and the diaphragms and needles...the needle jets can then be carefully tapped *downward* and out of the carb body. Don't use any jagged or sharp object...a light tap with a small wooden dowel should be all thats required. Give them a bath...obviously the inner circumference is the "working" surface...I pull most of the cotton off a q-tip, douse it with carb cleaner and spin it in there and treat ultrasonically. ummm, wipe clean the actual slide needle too...you want no "film"....the mixing holes and inside of the emulsion tube as well....these parts actually comprise a mixing chamber.

Also the air correction jet on the intake bell....which meters air into this main mixing chamber.

I use soda blast equipment for like-new surfaces (pic) These were brown-green before blast.

Sorry for run-on...could go on for hours re micro cleaning.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 05:52 AM   #26
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These things (quote from another thread):
Quote:
Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
Just curious, but did they give you a new pair of these things in the jet kit or did they use something different? Or do you just use the old ones?
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Old May 18th, 2015, 06:50 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
(SNIP)
I use soda blast equipment for like-new surfaces (pic) These were brown-green before blast.

Sorry for run-on...could go on for hours re micro cleaning.
Those parts do look nice...

One thing to consider when you have really corroded brass carb parts is interior corrosion - the kind you can't see or get to.

If the parts are heavily corroded on the outside I will replace them instead of trying to clean them. Any amount of pitting or corrosion left inside the tiny passages of a fuel-metering part can disrupt flow and cause running problems that are hard to diagnose and isolate.
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Old May 20th, 2015, 05:58 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
agent-

by silver pieces you are referring to needle jets....after removing emulsion tubes (aka main jet holders) and the diaphragms and needles...the needle jets can then be carefully tapped *downward* and out of the carb body. Don't use any jagged or sharp object...a light tap with a small wooden dowel should be all thats required. Give them a bath...obviously the inner circumference is the "working" surface...I pull most of the cotton off a q-tip, douse it with carb cleaner and spin it in there and treat ultrasonically. ummm, wipe clean the actual slide needle too...you want no "film"....the mixing holes and inside of the emulsion tube as well....these parts actually comprise a mixing chamber.

Also the air correction jet on the intake bell....which meters air into this main mixing chamber.

I use soda blast equipment for like-new surfaces (pic) These were brown-green before blast.

Sorry for run-on...could go on for hours re micro cleaning.
Thanks good info.
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