HID install and fuse compatibility questions

[petersophy]

Hey guys, so I recently bought the BKMOTO 35W H7 HID kit and was curious if I needed a relay for it (does not come with one)? I saw that their 55W called for a relay but their 35W did not. After asking my friend he said I would also need a relay for the 35W HID as well. Is this true? Also do I need to change the headlamp fuse to a 20 instead of a 15, or can I maintain usage with the 15? If it turns out that I do need a relay, where could I purchase one?

[InvisiBill]

First, generic HID warning: Headlight assemblies are designed as a system. The bulb is located in a very specific spot within the reflector to provide the desired light output. Changing the light source's location/orientation can drastically change the output characteristics of the headlight. It's possible to throw more light in the wrong areas, resulting in the double-whammy to your night vision of having less light where you actually need it, and the extra light in other places causing your eyes to close down even more.


Assuming the 300 matches the NewGen's wiring, "no" to all of that.

H7 bulbs are 55W, so you're already drawing 55/110W with the stock system. 35/70W is much lower, even if there is a bit of a spike when the ballast first fires up. The 55W HID is going to be the same draw as stock, other than that initial spike, so you may not even need a relay for that. 15A at 12V is 180W, so the fuse should be fine too.


You may wish to use a headlight relay kit (like this) to get full voltage to your headlight, regardless of type. The stock setup powers the headlight from the left control (at least for the high beam on the NewGen), through the fusebox, from the ignition switch. The relay kit uses the stock wiring to trigger the relay, which supplies power directly from the battery to the bulb, bypassing the losses of the stock wiring/switches/connectors. That will provide a higher voltage to the headlight, giving you more light from an incandescent bulb or more stable input to your HID ballast.

[Ghostt]

I concur with @InvisiBill.

I know for a fact that a 55w ballast draws at startup @ about 5A, and then runs at about 3.5A normally.

I have the DDM TUNING 55w kit in both the Ninjette and EX. The DDM TUNING kit comes with a wiring harness which taps to the battery to power the ballast. It only uses the OEM headlight circuit to switch the ballast on, and the hi/low feature of the HID bulb.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HI...rcycle-HID-Kit

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Cat...its/Motorcycle



I have recently started testing a cheap LED H4 bulb in the Ninjette, it's better than OEM, but not as bright(lumens) as the HID.



Supposedly the CREE LED puts out about 1,500~1,800 lumens, while the 55w HID put out 5,000 lumens.

The lumens with the HID definitely overpower the OEM fluted lens, and it doesn't produce a nice clean crisp pattern, but even with the OEM bulb, it still doesn't, which is the fault with the ancient fluted lens.

I've never had a problem blinding oncoming traffic, once the headlight was adjusted properly.

I've also installed a Kisan headlight modulator to the CREE LED, and it works perfectly. Makes a nice safety modification.

http://kisantech.com/mag/index.php/p...zer/p115w.html