250R NA Build - Ultimate

[tubarney]

Found the problem.

The bolt that hold the cam chain guide is loose.

It does not say to put locking agent on it. I am going to put non-permanent on it because that could have been bad.

Another ride and it would have fallen out.

[mgentz]

That's why your chain fell off? I'm not sure that solves the tapping noise though as my bolt is fine.

I'm in a hold pattern right now. Need a gasket and its taking forever.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

That's why your chain fell off? I'm not sure that solves the tapping noise though as my bolt is fine.

I'm in a hold pattern right now. Need a gasket and its taking forever.

No chain didn't fall off. I could only crank it over for a bit then it would stop so I assumed it was the chain wrapping around the crank.

Turns out I have the cams a few degrees out and my exhaust valve is hitting my #1 piston. Lucky I didn't use much force. My paint marks came off so I had to guess.

So I'm hoping that this solves the loud noise coming from head. I will know tomorrow

[mgentz]

How could they be out a few degrees if you're not running slotted sprockets? Do you believe it was from the tension on the chain not being correct? Was it like this before?

My crank spins real easy but I still have the noise....

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

How could they be out a few degrees if you're not running slotted sprockets? Do you believe it was from the tension on the chain not being correct? Was it like this before?

My crank spins real easy but I still have the noise....

Sorry I confused you. The cams are out from the crank. I have 36 links between cams. But cams are not connected to the correct crank tooth. I had to move the both cams clockwise 4 links while keeping the crank in the same position to fix it.

My paint marker is not oil resistant so my paint marks rubbed off so I have to set timing from scratch.

I'm thinking the noise was from the cam chain.

[mgentz]

I tested mine with the dial indicator. Got tdc on #2 and the cams lined up flush as they should have. Still have noise

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

I tested mine with the dial indicator. Got tdc on #2 and the cams lined up flush as they should have. Still have noise

Have you checked your chain guides? I'll know if mine goes away very soon. I'm in the process of putting it back together.

[mgentz]

Still trying to figure out the shifting problem first. I wonder if I need to pull the nuetral position bolt and reset it or something. ... everything works when I do it manually.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Still trying to figure out the shifting problem first. I wonder if I need to pull the nuetral position bolt and reset it or something. ... everything works when I do it manually.

Sounds like the neutral bolt. Before I installed mine, the only way I could shift it was with my hand on gear lever. It did not 'click' into gear either. You could barely tell that it shifted.

It's weird that you have a problem to begin with since you didn't pull it apart. I pulled mine apart and must of spent about 4 hours trying to figure out how it went together. I had to basically hope that I did it right.

[mgentz]

yep...I have had a lot of weird issues.

lets see if I cannot get this one corrected quickly. Since you did the nuetral bolt, got any tips? instructions?

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

yep...I have had a lot of weird issues.

lets see if I cannot get this one corrected quickly. Since you did the nuetral bolt, got any tips? instructions?

Same here. You have to love the 'joys' of engine building.

Now that I think about I can't imagine why the neutral bolt or "shift drum positioning bolt" would be causing a problem because its easy to install. You just screw it in. But what else could it be if you didn't remove the tranny.

The only way it could be causing a problem is if the internal parts of the bolt are not installed.

Here's my thread I posted about it. It shows the parts of it.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...sitioning+bolt

[Racer x]

My consern is something is out of place. Since the lower case was off.

[mgentz]

But what? It shifts fine when I use an allen wrench. And the positive finder is part of fifth gear and was never touched.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

But what? It shifts fine when I use an allen wrench. And the positive finder is part of fifth gear and was never touched.

If you can shift it through all the gears with the wrench then it is a problem with your linkage.

It takes a fair amount of force to shift it manually from the shift drum. The linkage is what makes it easy enough so you can shift it with your foot.

[tubarney]

I'm starting it again tomorrow, then taking it down to the dyno.

I will let you know if the noise is still present even though I tightened the chain guide.

Luckly that deminerilsed water didn't stuff my water pump. It is lucky I'm pretty handy with a wire brush and die grinder.

[mgentz]

Yea...I'm still waiting on parts to try....don't know why its taking too long.

[tubarney]

Noise is still there. I'm going down to the dealer for another litre of oil. I'll ask the mechanic and show him the photo's.

Then tomo, dyno. NBA finals got the best of me today.

[tubarney]

Noise is gone. I started it up this morning; the engine was cold and it was still making the noise.

I took it for about a 40 min ride then taking it to redline in 2nd gear at least 30-40 times, it goes away when the engine is warm. I could not hear it at all by the end of the ride.

[tubarney]

Because its the queens birthday long weekend I could not dyno it today. I will have to wait till tuesday. Will give me time to give my exhaust leak.

[mgentz]

Yea I'm still waiting on parts. Quite upsetting it is taking this long. ..but oh well

[subxero]

Originally Posted by tubarney

Noise is gone. I started it up this morning; the engine was cold and it was still making the noise.

I took it for about a 40 min ride then taking it to redline in 2nd gear at least 30-40 times, it goes away when the engine is warm. I could not hear it at all by the end of the ride.

My bike is quite noisy on cold start up but gets much quieter once it is warm.
The engine is 100% stock right now, only 5500 miles on it, got it last Oct.

Only thing i really changed was a i put in a manual CCT. I set it when the engine was warm so i attribute the sound i get when it is cold to the cam chain, once it warms up in there it sounds fine.

look forward to your dyno results

[tubarney]

I started it up this morning and it sounds good. No noise and it was cold, so thats good news. I'm thinking it had something do with the camshafts needing a 'break in'.

I'll try and take a video of it on the dyno.

[Racer x]

Good luck with the dyno.

[choneofakind]

That's great news Brad!! Now lets see how yours compares to Eric's when he's not using N2O. He got some great numbers out of his.

I wonder if the exhaust-cam trick would work on a 300 as well.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

That's great news Brad!! Now lets see how yours compares to Eric's when he's not using N2O. He got some great numbers out of his.

I wonder if the exhaust-cam trick would work on a 300 as well.

I would bet money on the cams being same on the 300 as the 250. If there is one thing an engineer does when they design something it is to make it as easy as possible to manufacture. This includes the entire machining of the head as well as the cams. Why make it harder to enter the co-ordinates into the machine when you can just make them the same.

[Racer x]

My engine is a little detuned to take advantage of the nitrous. But it makes 32.65 yesterday. That is about what it always makes. Under 34. So anything over 35 is awsome.

[mgentz]

Holy @#$^*) is this thing fun now. Yep...u guessed it...she is running baby!!!

Ill keep breaking her in and then dyno soon.

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Holy @#$^*) is this thing fun now. Yep...u guessed it...she is running baby!!!

Ill keep breaking her in and then dyno soon.

What was the issue with your shifting and starting?

[mgentz]

The starting problem was traced to the motion pro kill switch. When I installed it there were two black wires that needed to be connected. I connected them in the opposite way because I did not trace them all the way through the harness. I just figured they were both grounds. This was causing the start button to be the kill switch as well. Thus everyone of my tests worked when I was diagnosing because when trying to start everything was right.....let go of the button though and she quit

As for the shifting, I replaced the entire ext/int linkage and ran the bike through the gears manually a few times with a allen wrench. ..now it works as it should.

As for the bike..she has power everwhere in comparison to stock. The new suspension is magical.

[Somchai]

Hey Mike, this is a good news.
Now have fun with your Ninjette

[cuong-nutz]

Ah okay. I remember reading about the motion pro switch now.

[Racer x]

See, the answers come if you keep at it. If this stuff was easy and trouble free. Everyone would do it.
Good job. I can't wait for the dyno results.

[c-dog]

Great news Mike! Glad you got it sorted out. Let me know if you ever want to cruise or something. Would love to see/hear it in person.

[mgentz]

@tubarney did you get the jetting sorted out on the dyno? What did u end up with?

[mgentz]

Rode it again. Seems to be sounding better byt the tick is still there.

Pretty sure I need to adjust my jetting....

Also...does anyone have the stock sportsi map for the jettingpro cdi? I would like to see it.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Rode it again. Seems to be sounding better byt the tick is still there.

Pretty sure I need to adjust my jetting....

Also...does anyone have the stock sportsi map for the jettingpro cdi? I would like to see it.

I had a coolant leak from a radiator hose. It was so small I could barely find it. I drained coolant and glued the hose to the metal pipe with crank case sealant. I let it set for 36 hours to be sure. Its good now.

Dyno tomorrow morning . I went down today, must have been 10 bikes there.

I'm running 110 main, 40 pilot and 2 washers under needle. It runs quite well but it is lean pretty much everywhere. I'm thinking 112 main and 3 washers. Will find out tomorrow anyway.

I have the stock timing map around here somewhere.

[tubarney]

This is for brt. The very first map is the stock map. There's english and Indonesian on the page.

[tubarney]

Ninja is at the Dyno!! I'll post the graph by the end of the day.

[mgentz]

Awesome. I am very interested.... I hope to have mine on soon. I just need to break her in a little more.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Awesome. I am very interested.... I hope to have mine on soon. I just need to break her in a little more.

Good idea with the break-in. Keep going until your oil has a metallic sheen, then flush and dyno.

What jetting you running?