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Old January 30th, 2016, 02:19 PM   #1
Mike K
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2014 Ninja 300 Track Build

I'm going to run in the Team ProMotion (TPM) Ninja 300 race series this season so my bike needs to be prepped.

Here's the evolution of my 2014 300 from street salvage to track. I've removed the street bodywork, added Arashi rear sets and Hotbodies MGP slip on and switched to GP-shift pattern to match my other track bike.

I plan to put on track plastics if I can find a used set. I also want to do the ignition key delete and keyless gas cap as well as short folding levers.

Does anyone know if the bolt circle pattern of the gas cap assembly is the same for a years? It looks the same just looking at photos but I could be wrong.

Anyone have or know anyone that is selling track bodywork in any condition let me know.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 01:51 PM   #2
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I bought some used track plastics. Should arrive this week.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 01:57 PM   #3
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Old February 1st, 2016, 04:22 PM   #4
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Gotta love that footpeg set
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Old February 1st, 2016, 05:08 PM   #5
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Gotta love that footpeg set
Totally fugly but someone at the track had them and sold them to me pretty cheap. I wanted to ride so...going for the gold!

It's going to be pretty funny looking. The tank is black, the plastics are Kawi green, rearsets gold. I might just get a hot pink helmet to complete the look
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Old February 1st, 2016, 05:17 PM   #6
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Totally fugly but someone at the track had them and sold them to me pretty cheap. I wanted to ride so...going for the gold!

It's going to be pretty funny looking. The tank is black, the plastics are Kawi green, rearsets gold. I might just get a hot pink helmet to complete the look

Naaah, gold and kawi green will look just fine in my opinion, just need work on the gastank color though (repaint to kawi green I guess).
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Old February 1st, 2016, 05:44 PM   #7
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Naaah, gold and kawi green will look just fine in my opinion, just need work on the gastank color though (repaint to kawi green I guess).
The black tank has a dent in it so maybe I'll look for a replacement in green.
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Old February 2nd, 2016, 11:56 AM   #8
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The black tank has a dent in it so maybe I'll look for a replacement in green.
Is your new bodywork Hot Bodies?
I just replaced my HB bodywork with a set from Flexi Glass. I had my tank bead blasted ($25), and shot the works with Dupli Color Grabber Green spray bombs.

It's not a dead on match but it's pretty close - the fairing is Dupli Color, the fender is the HB (ignore the fibreglass dust on the rear of the fender):

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Old February 8th, 2016, 10:25 PM   #9
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Yeah, my body work is Hotbodies. Both sets arrived today in a huge box. Planning to put them on tomorrow.
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Old February 10th, 2016, 07:56 PM   #10
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Body work test fitted.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 08:03 PM   #11
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Nice to see those going to good use
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Old February 16th, 2016, 08:12 PM   #12
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I shall see you on the grid
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Old February 16th, 2016, 08:44 PM   #13
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Nice to see those going to good use
Heck yeah. First track day in three weeks in North Carolina to break her in. I won't get to race it until April or May.

Thanks again!
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Old February 16th, 2016, 08:44 PM   #14
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I shall see you on the grid
Can't wait
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Old March 13th, 2016, 11:20 AM   #15
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On track at NCBike

First time on track with the Ninja 300. I came away with mixed feelings. It felt sloooooow but in reality I was only 5 seconds a lap slower than on the 750. I don't think that's too significant though since I suck on the 750. Lol

I had a few issues with the Ninja. First the Metzelers that I mounted were past their prime. The rear was sliding around. It would step out every time my knee touched. Second was the front end was hopping around real hard in fast turns. Tried to push through it but thought better of it. The last issue which is all me and my inexperience on the 300 was that I hit the rev-limiter almost all the time.
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Old March 14th, 2016, 03:49 PM   #16
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I shall see you on the grid
Are you going to Summit on 3/26?
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Old March 16th, 2016, 04:06 PM   #17
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Are you going to Summit on 3/26?

Yea man I'll be there. Oh man I just realized I got on you fb already.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 07:12 PM   #18
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Hit me on fb. My GSXR shock arrived today. Going to see if I have time to install it tomorrow.
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Old March 19th, 2016, 08:48 PM   #19
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GSXR Shock Install

Pics of the GSXR shock install. It took me about two hours. All of the nuts, bolts and washers were purchased at Lowe's. The bolts are M12-1.75x120. The nuts are nylock style.

Pic 1: The 2006-2007 GSXR 600/750 shock. Remove the top mount if it's still mounted. You must drill out the top and bottom mounting holes of the shock using either a 12mm or 15/32" bit.

Pic 2: These are the tools that I used to drill the shock, cut the plastic undertail above the shock and to grind away the inner surface of the lower shock mount.

Pic 3: This is a Dewalt 15/32" bit that I got from Lowe's. About $10. Drill the top shock mount hole first while the bit is still new and sharp. Use a lubricant when drilling metal. I had some anti-seize handy so that's what I used. Drill part way through from one side then flip the shock and drill from the other side. Do the same for the bottom. Once you've drilled through run the drill in and out of the holes and wiggle the drill around a little to open the holes up a fraction more especially if you used the 15/32" rather than a 12mm. Test fit your bolts to make sure they slide in easily.

Pic 4: Before you get to the drilling, grinding and pounding put on some gloves and safety glasses. Don't be a dummy.

Pic 5 & 6: The bike set up on stands. The front of my bike is held up by a triple tree stand (not pictured) so it's really steady. The bricks are unnecessary. The jack under the pan is to steady the bike for when you're ready to take out the old shock and put in the new shock. You have to drop the rear tire and swing arm to get the shock in there. To do that you just lift the handle of the rear stand.

Pic 7: Before you do that though you have to remove the frame plugs so you can access the top shock nut/bolt. 17mm bolt, 19mm nut for top and bottom and for the dogbones.

Pic 8: You can get the old shock out pretty easily but to get the GSXR shock with the gas reservoir in you'll need to cut the plastic cover away along the red line. I was able to do it without removing it using a Dremel (rotary tool) with a router-type/Roto-Zip-type bit. It was the worst part of the job because of the mess of plastic debris. It really only took a few minutes.

Pic 9 & 10: Measurement of the lower shock mount arm. This is the dimension that you have to grind the GSXR shock bottom out to.

Pic 11 & 12: The measurements of the lower GSXR shock mount yoke before and after grinding.

More to follow.
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Old March 19th, 2016, 08:58 PM   #20
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Continued:

Pic 13 & 14: The installed shock. To get the GSXR shock in you have to drop the rear wheel and swing arm. It doesn't drop right in. You have to get the right angle and finesse it a bit. The top of the shock will hit the plastic but you don't need to cut away any more than I did. Once you have it in just about the right spot just whack the top of the shock a few times with your hand. The plastic pushes up enough to let the shock drop in.

I put the top shock bolt in first then the bottom. You may have to move the bike up or down with the jack to line up the holes. Same goes for the dogbones. If you have to use a lot of force you are not lined up properly. Space out the dogbones using washers as spacers. The GSXR spring is a larger diameter so you have to space the dogbones out some. I used lock nuts throughout. If you don't then I'd suggest some locktite.

Overall I'd say that if you can change your own oil without ending up in the hospital then you can do this conversion. Just be smart and keep safety in mind. Make sure that the bike is stable. You're laying on the ground next to it for most of this. If it falls on you it will hurt.

Summit Point here I come!!
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Old March 20th, 2016, 08:42 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
First time on track with the Ninja 300. I came away with mixed feelings. It felt sloooooow but in reality I was only 5 seconds a lap slower than on the 750. I don't think that's too significant though since I suck on the 750. Lol

I had a few issues with the Ninja. First the Metzelers that I mounted were past their prime. The rear was sliding around. It would step out every time my knee touched. Second was the front end was hopping around real hard in fast turns. Tried to push through it but thought better of it. The last issue which is all me and my inexperience on the 300 was that I hit the rev-limiter almost all the time.
looking at your pictures, you may want to get your head and shoulders forward and down, that should help with the tire issues and bouncy front end. as for the rev limiter, go a gear higher.
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Old March 20th, 2016, 08:58 AM   #22
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looking at your pictures, you may want to get your head and shoulders forward and down, that should help with the tire issues and bouncy front end. as for the rev limiter, go a gear higher.
I'll give that a try. As for going up a gear, I already was. I just have to get used to the lower power and stay in the power band.

What is the power band on the 300?
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Old March 20th, 2016, 09:17 AM   #23
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What is the power band on the 300?
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Old March 20th, 2016, 12:17 PM   #24
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I'll give that a try. As for going up a gear, I already was. I just have to get used to the lower power and stay in the power band.

What is the power band on the 300?
unless your in 5th gear, go a gear higher. as you lean over the radius of the tire gets smaller, therefore the revs get higher.
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Old March 27th, 2016, 09:13 AM   #25
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I ran the 300 at Summit yesterday. The transformation was startling. The bike is so much smoother. I didn't notice any front wheel hop or shuddering. I don't know if that's a function of the track surface being much less grippy at Summit versus NCBike but the rear felt pretty planted. I don't really go fast enough to really test it but to me it felt much more settled in that I wasn't fighting the bike, I was just riding.

All in all a very worthwhile conversion that costs so little and takes just a few hours to do. Next I might go for RaceTech springs and emulators WITHOUT removing the forks.
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Old March 27th, 2016, 09:19 AM   #26
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As for the bike feeling under powered I was much more conscious of keeping the revs in the powerband and shifting a lot. I still coast too much and use the brakes too often but I remembered why I liked riding my old 250 so much. Nobody passes you on the infield. I was weaving through traffic and only getting passed on the straights-- front straight, between T1 and T2 and between T9 and T10. It was fun.

I think that I'm going to concentrate riding the 300 for the beginning of the season. I really do still suck and should be going much faster by now. The 300 forces me to be smooth and consistent which I'm not and to go deeper and carry more speed which I don't. Those things are slowing me down and keeping me from making the next step.
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Old March 30th, 2016, 05:14 PM   #27
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Question

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All in all a very worthwhile conversion that costs so little and takes just a few hours to do. Next I might go for RaceTech springs and emulators WITHOUT removing the forks.
Why not remove the forks? It's not any more involved than the rear conversion you've already done.
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Old March 30th, 2016, 06:50 PM   #28
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Why not remove the forks? It's not any more involved than the rear conversion you've already done.
If youre just doing springs, why do the extra work? Its easy enough to pop the cap off grab the spring, swap spring, tighten it all back up and be done. lol
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Old March 30th, 2016, 07:39 PM   #29
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If youre just doing springs, why do the extra work? Its easy enough to pop the cap off grab the spring, swap spring, tighten it all back up and be done. lol

Exactly. I'm just doing springs and emulators so there's no reason to go to the extra and unnecessary work to take off the forks.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 07:01 AM   #30
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Exactly. I'm just doing springs and emulators so there's no reason to go to the extra and unnecessary work to take off the forks.
Emulators take over compression damping duties from the stock damper rods. You need to drill out the stock holes in the damper rods (i.e. make them too big to do any damping) for the emulators to work properly.

Intiminators don't require drilling out the damper rods due to the thinner oil they use, though you may still want to, just to make sure the stock parts aren't interfering in any way. I haven't yet, but plan to when I service the forks and have them apart.

For springs, there's no reason to take the forks off/apart though. I think it took me longer to do the preload math than it did to actually swap my fork springs.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 08:21 AM   #31
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Damn, I forgot about having to drill the damper rods.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 09:53 AM   #32
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I've been reading on the Intimators. A little more expensive but proportionally higher level of technology.

Anyone know the size of the forks on a 2014 300? My bike isn't stored here.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 04:45 PM   #33
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Beat me to it, but springs and emulators also mean changing the fork oil to a different weight in most cases.

Attached photos for rough 300 fork tube size. Side note: the 250 sized intiminators fit my forks without issue, but I haven't had a chance to do any real running on them since the winter build. Hilariously/depressingly sidelined for other reasons. Also, Sonic Springs are cheaper, if that's a concern for you. They also come with extra washers and preload spacer material, which is nice of them.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 05:20 PM   #34
Mike K
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Thanks ToEleven. Looks like I'll go the Intimator route. I'll check out Sonic Springs too. Thanks for the tip. I have an oil suction system that should take care of things.I'll use that to suck it out, spray in some cleaner, cycle the forks and suck the residue out.

I love how the bike handled with just the change to the GSXR shock and spring. This should really make it handle sweet.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 05:53 PM   #35
Somchai
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Mike if you go the Intiminator-Route you should read on SVRider http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100825
And this is from Ninja 250 Riders Club http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=792168
Note: "My findings are, most daily street riders felt it's a great product, but full time racer felt the GVE is better."
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Old March 31st, 2016, 08:59 PM   #36
Mike K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somchai View Post
Mike if you go the Intiminator-Route you should read on SVRider http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100825
And this is from Ninja 250 Riders Club http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=792168
Note: "My findings are, most daily street riders felt it's a great product, but full time racer felt the GVE is better."
That first one is 45 pages long. Have you read through it? If so can you give me the Cliff Notes version?
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Old March 31st, 2016, 11:21 PM   #37
Somchai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
That first one is 45 pages long. Have you read through it? If so can you give me the Cliff Notes version?
To be honest I have to say 'No' I didn't read it all, since I'd already read so many of all those websites, I'd want you to read and find out what's the best for you by yourself and not rely on my recommendation.
And as the first before talking more about this, if you need them for a race bike then buy them only here: https://www.spearsenterprises.com/ - there you get them race-ready, Ricor by themselves sells the normal street-version.
When you go this route then it is very important to start with the Intiminators only and DO NOT change the spring before you'd ride your bike!!!
Please let me add the following that after I'd read so many about suspension setup on motorcycles (before I only did cars and never touched a motorcycle), I found out the best way for me to go with was the FEGV's since there is more chance to adjust them like I want them.
And let me advice the following to you: Don't rely too much on the recommendations from others - everybody likes it different.
Those guys have bought a product and from that moment on (the time one spend his money) this product is the best and everything else will not be the same level of quality.
I did what was recommended on all those websites and at least ended up with not the best possible setup, my oil-weight was too high since everybody recommended 15W.
So to make the story short, my setup was better than oem but a compromise only until I'd meet a guy who did more than 20 years of setting up the suspension from Kwaki-Racebikes.
He took my bike for a testride and after that made a what I can say professional setup with 10W-Oil and many changes and what's important to say, a not too stiff spring (that's what everybody in the web is talking about and recommending since I guess the knowledge must be limited to that part only).
About springs please read here: http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/springs.htm
Note: "The correct spring is the softest spring available, that is able to support the bike and rider under the hardest of braking/accelerating while still leaving some room for the system to travel if a bumb is encountered in this state."
So please read on as many websites as you can (not for Ninjettes only!), look for a real expert and tell him what you want - than you'll get what you want and need (and yes, it will cost some money, but it's worth it).
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 01:23 PM   #38
Mike K
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After either Dominion or NCBike I'll decide which way to go.
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Old April 23rd, 2016, 10:39 AM   #39
Mike K
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Latest work on the 300: I put a brake lever protector on the throttle side before Summit. Last week I removed the dash surround and made a mount for the dash that is lower and deeper so that the panel doesn't interfere with the front brake lines. I just got a gear indicator yesterday. I'll fit it either today or tomorrow. Last two things on the list are forks as previously discussed and deciding whether or not to remove the ABS system. I'll decide on both after NCBike next weekend.

I'll post pics of the latest mods tomorrow.
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Old April 25th, 2016, 10:18 PM   #40
Mike K
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Pic 1 & 2: The instrument panel removed from the dash surround and mounted to the front framework.

Pic 3: The simple handmade mounting brackets. Made with a hacksaw, pliers and drill. Easy.

Pic 4: The bar end brake lever guard. I had to get two different kinds to find one that fits the Woodcraft clipons. Not all 7/8" bars have the same ID. Woodcraft bars are thicker.

Pic 5: The all-important camera mount.
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