Ghetto Meadow Certified - project

[Racer x]

If you want to use a new radiator in an old frame. Use the new gen motor mounts

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

I weigh about 160lbs so .7 Sonic springs will be ordered eventually.

Assuming they're still stock, those NewGen forks in your pile have .65 springs in them. RaceTech's calc says .66 for street, so .65 should at least be pretty close, for free. You could even trim them a bit to make them stiffer. It's up to you if the slightly stiffer aftermarket springs are worth the cost.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Ok, let's do some Maths! As my favorite YouTuber would say....

100/80-16 front. 16 inches is 406 mm. 80% of 100 mm is 80 mm, that gives us an overall diameter of 486 mm.

110/70-17 front. 17 inches is 432 mm. 70% of 110mm is 77mm, giving us an overall diamter of 509 mm.

That's a difference of 23mm! This would definitely affect your handling, simply swapping front to front and not changing tire size.

I can't recommend a front wheel swap without swapping the rear too. Sure, you could get a 100/70-17 for the front but that's only good for 7 mm, leaving a 16 mm difference.

IMO, you would need to increase rear ride height 16mm to offset the difference. I don't like dropping the forks in the clamps, especially with undersprung bikes because the tire could hit the fairing.

Up to you! If my math is off, feel free to correct me.

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Rear tires....

130/80-16. 16 inches is 406mm. 80% of 130 is 104mm, giving the rear overall 510mm. Increasing the size to a 150/60-16...406mm plus 90mm (smaller height!) is only 496mm.

You would need a 150/80-16 and I'm not sure that would fit properly or at all.

There's a sidewall at both the top and bottom.

100/80-16 = 566mm
110/70-17 = 586mm
100/70-17 = 572mm

130/80-16 = 614mm
150/60-16 = 586mm
150/80-16 = 646mm
140/70-16 = 602mm

http://www.invisibill.net/ninja/tirecalc/ will save you some time calculating (though it's still good to know how those figures are derived).

[UFOmoplata]

I got it figured. Got pics. I'll post later the how-to.

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

Assuming they're still stock, those NewGen forks in your pile have .65 springs in them. RaceTech's calc says .66 for street, so .65 should at least be pretty close, for free. You could even trim them a bit to make them stiffer. It's up to you if the slightly stiffer aftermarket springs are worth the cost.

No it is not worth it to me. I looked at your link and saw new gen springs are perfect so I'll use those. Combining with 15wt.

Thanks for your help.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

There's a sidewall at both the top and bottom.

100/80-16 = 566mm
110/70-17 = 586mm
100/70-17 = 572mm

130/80-16 = 614mm
150/60-16 = 586mm
150/80-16 = 646mm
140/70-16 = 602mm

http://www.invisibill.net/ninja/tirecalc/ will save you some time calculating (though it's still good to know how those figures are derived).

HAHA! Oops....figured I made a mistake somewhere. Thanks!

[UFOmoplata]

Update is on my blog. I'll post here later when my laptop is fixed.

[UFOmoplata]

Guys, if you run a newgen engine in pregen frame, you more likely will need to replace the newgen water inlet pipe with the pregen pipe.

I found it easier to use the pregen radiator due to clearance issues with the gas tank and aero.

Since the motor mounts and radiator don't match, bolt it on the left motor mount to snug up the hose clearances with the gas tank. You will need to create a radiator bracket. Plastic will work.

If you plan on running front aero, you'll need to trim it some.

IMGUR pics are showing up HUGE. If you want to see pics, they're on the blog.

[UFOmoplata]

Nothing much going on here.

Major Needs:
-new few tap
-new plugs
-carbs rejet/cleaned
-front brake caliper bracket finished
-5.1 brake juice
-lights wired

Minor needs:
-fender chop
-fairing bolts
-mirrors
-tank pads
-more stickers
-Danmoto slip-on?

[UFOmoplata]

Hooked up tail lights. Brake light works fine. Turnsignal is acting funny. When turned on, one side flashes while the other is blank.

Side note: front signals are not wired. Would that cause this? Battery is charged plenty.

https://youtu.be/BLJRsiFCSyg

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

IMGUR pics are showing up HUGE. If you want to see pics, they're on the blog.

When you upload IMGUR images click the resize button (square with a arrow underneath is and to the right of it) then click the image button, then paste the image address.

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Hooked up tail lights. Brake light works fine. Turnsignal is acting funny. When turned on, one side flashes while the other is blank.

Side note: front signals are not wired. Would that cause this? Battery is charged plenty.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[YOUTUBE ]BLJRsiFCSyg[ /YOUTUBE]

[spent_too_much]

I have aftermarket turn signals on my 250. The connectors sometimes come loose, and I get that rapid flashing. You state that the fronts are not hooked up, so my guess is just that. Hook all 4 up, and then test - or at least both front and rear on the same side. That should cure your issue.

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by spent_too_much

I have aftermarket turn signals on my 250. The connectors sometimes come loose, and I get that rapid flashing. You state that the fronts are not hooked up, so my guess is just that. Hook all 4 up, and then test - or at least both front and rear on the same side. That should cure your issue.

And if that doesn't work, looks like I'm going to autozone.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_LED_...9;t_work_right

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

And if that doesn't work, looks like I'm going to autozone.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_LED_...9;t_work_right

If ballast resistors didn't come with your LED's, save yourself the headache and just go get an electronic flasher. The standard flasher will always be fast, no matter how many LED's you hook up.

[UFOmoplata]

https://imgur.com/a/vKlit

It's black. New plugs too then.

[SRH]

Led bulbs will cause problems in the turn signal circuit. The problem is the way they are wired from the factory. As is, each side uses the other as a ground, or rather a terminator for any leftover voltage. LED bulbs use so much less current, there is too much voltage left over and causes both sides to light up at the same time. One way to correct this is the "Diode Mod", the way I chose to correct it. Here's a link to my diode mod pics and instructions on Photobucket:http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/Ee...?sort=3&page=1

Also, to keep from having to use load resistors with my complete LED changeover, I used plug-n-play bulbs from Super Bright LEDs.

LED headlight bulb I used on my Ninja: http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-LED-Conversion-Kit

[UFOmoplata]

Done these things:

-cleaned carbs
-new plugs
-new fuel tap
-fresh charged battery

With a little coaxing from starting fluid, I was able to start the bike. It ran for all of five seconds before it shut off.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_bike...get_it_started

According to the above link, I'm not exactly in a bad spot. If anyone has any other tricks they would like to share with me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Done these things:

-cleaned carbs
-new plugs
-new fuel tap
-fresh charged battery

With a little coaxing from starting fluid, I was able to start the bike. It ran for all of five seconds before it shut off.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_bike...get_it_started

According to the above link, I'm not exactly in a bad spot. If anyone has any other tricks they would like to share with me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Adjust idle speed and try again.

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by SRH

Led bulbs will cause problems in the turn signal circuit. The problem is the way they are wired from the factory. As is, each side uses the other as a ground, or rather a terminator for any leftover voltage. LED bulbs use so much less current, there is too much voltage left over and causes both sides to light up at the same time. One way to correct this is the "Diode Mod", the way I chose to correct it. Here's a link to my diode mod pics and instructions on Photobucket:http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/Ee...?sort=3&page=1

Also, to keep from having to use load resistors with my complete LED changeover, I used plug-n-play bulbs from Super Bright LEDs.

LED headlight bulb I used on my Ninja: http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-LED-Conversion-Kit

Thank you sir. I'll put this info to use.

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy

Adjust idle speed and try again.

You mean the screws in the carbs? I believe I set them at 2.5 turns out which I now realize is stock setting.

D'oh!

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

You mean the screws in the carbs? I believe I set them at 2.5 turns out.

The screws on the bottom of the carbs are the idle mixture screws (they control how much gas the bike get at idle), there is a know on the bottom left side of the carbs that controls the butterflies and keeps them open. It is possible that you have the butterflies to far closed for the bike to run.
I like to run the screw until it touches the throttle and turn it in two turns until i get the bike running, and adjust either direction. (don't be afraid to try 3 turns just to experiment)

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy

The screws on the bottom of the carbs are the idle mixture screws (they control how much gas the bike get at idle), there is a know on the bottom left side of the carbs that controls the butterflies and keeps them open. It is possible that you have the butterflies to far closed for the bike to run.
I like to run the screw until it touches the throttle and turn it in two turns until i get the bike running, and adjust either direction. (don't be afraid to try 3 turns just to experiment)

Yeah, there's a long, black cable with a knob at the end of it that I didn't know what for. Is that what you're talking about?

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Yeah, there's a long, black cable with a knob at the end of it that I didn't know what for. Is that what you're talking about?

Yes, one end is for you to adjust, the other pushed on the throttle and moves the butterflies.

[UFOmoplata]

Okay, fiddled with the idle screw. Made sure the fluids were topped off. I was able to get it running somewhat with idle jumping from high to low and everywhere in between.

I thought I was onto something until oil started puking out of the breather filter...massively. Back to square one...

I'll have a video shortly. I may have put too much oil in.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Okay, fiddled with the idle screw. Made sure the fluids were topped off. I was able to get it running somewhat with idle jumping from high to low and everywhere in between.

I thought I was onto something until oil started puking out of the breather filter...massively. Back to square one...

I'll have a video shortly. I may have put too much oil in.

That's a possibility. When was the last time you checked the valves?

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy

That's a possibility. When was the last time you checked the valves?

Never checked valves yet. I really do think I put way too much oil in.

Found a new leak. This time coming from the water pump.

[Bigballsofpaint]

1.8 quarts of oil, don't put the whole 2 quarts....

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

1.8 quarts of oil, don't put the whole 2 quarts....

When you drain all the oil out (like in a rebuild) it takes every drop of two quarts.

[UFOmoplata]

Just want to get this thing idling at the very least. I'll worry about jetting later.

Besides the idle knob, is there anything else I should mess with?

Link to original page on YouTube.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Just want to get this thing idling at the very least. I'll worry about jetting later.

Besides the idle knob, is there anything else I should mess with?

Link to original page on YouTube.

Idle is all in the idle speed knob that adjust the butterflies, and the mixture screws that control the amount of fuel.

[UFOmoplata]

Link to original page on YouTube.

Main 108
Pilot 38
2.75 turns
2 washers
Seafoam is running through it.

Still need to play with idle some. May need to adjust the valves next. Is this what a ninja should sound like?

[SRH]

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Link to original page on YouTube.

Main 108
Pilot 38
2.75 turns
2 washers
Seafoam is running through it.

Still need to play with idle some. May need to adjust the valves next. Is this what a ninja should sound like?

[SRH]

Still need to play with idle some. May need to adjust the valves next. Is this what a ninja should sound like?

Once you get away from the factory "tuned air box" it becomes quite time consuming to get the carbs dialed in. Before any carb adj/mods, though, valves should be checked for correct clearance, as clearance will affect intake air volume and consequently, A/F ratio. Once valve clearance is determined to be correct, full steam ahead on the carbs. Here are a couple of links you may find helpful.

J model valve adjustment

Carb tuning

You'll find a factory service manual essential and indispensable.

[UFOmoplata]

Starts up easy now.

Was having idle issues standing at 4000, so I messed with carbs again.

Took out a washer and opened the mixture screw to 3 turns. Idle now stands at 6-7000.

from what I read online, it sounds like a vacuum leak. Intake boots aren't cracked so I'm leaning towards one of the smaller lines not having a clamp on as the culprit. In the meantime, I'm going to set the carbs back to the setting I had it at.

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by SRH

Once you get away from the factory "tuned air box" it becomes quite time consuming to get the carbs dialed in. Before any carb adj/mods, though, valves should be checked for correct clearance, as clearance will affect intake air volume and consequently, A/F ratio. Once valve clearance is determined to be correct, full steam ahead on the carbs. Here are a couple of links you may find helpful.

J model valve adjustment

Carb tuning

You'll find a factory service manual essential and indispensable.

Thanks for the info. I need some clearance gauges first. Wonder if harbor freight has them?

[SRH]

Am I correct that you have a F model bike with a J engine? Unless you're already familiar, I highly recommend that you read the information you'll find via the J model valve adjustment link in my last post.
If you're not familiar, you'll also need a micrometer and a source for shims just in case you need to replace any.
I've never been a fan of shim-under-bucket designs, or over bucket for that matter but I understand the concept and why manufacturers utilize them. I also can relate to one's reluctance to endeavor that task, but if one wants a top running machine, as well as the satisfaction of knowing that machine, procedure must be followed.Although I'm an F model owner, I read the valve adj write-up in that link. Wow. I thought mine was difficult. Good luck with yours, I'm interested to see your bike run with all the mods.

[UFOmoplata]

Originally Posted by SRH

Am I correct that you have a F model bike with a J engine? Unless you're already familiar, I highly recommend that you read the information you'll find via the J model valve adjustment link in my last post.
If you're not familiar, you'll also need a micrometer and a source for shims just in case you need to replace any.
I've never been a fan of shim-under-bucket designs, or over bucket for that matter but I understand the concept and why manufacturers utilize them. I also can relate to one's reluctance to endeavor that task, but if one wants a top running machine, as well as the satisfaction of knowing that machine, procedure must be followed.Although I'm an F model owner, I read the valve adj write-up in that link. Wow. I thought mine was difficult. Good luck with yours, I'm interested to see your bike run with all the mods.

The service dept quoted me ~150 for valve adjustments. I can pay for that. As far as the high idle, they're saying it's somewhere in the carbs. I have a hunch where. It might have something to do with the Kleen air lines.

[UFOmoplata]

While the carb is @ducatiman, did a few aesthetics things. Proper fairing bolts from Bikebolts.com. Removed the black plastidip. I'm starting to like the all silver look. Want to get a black front wheel to match. Powdercoating is too much trouble.

Removed the brace out of the fender to cut out a smaller, lighter fender. Inspired by:


80s version


What's left:
-water pump
-coolant flush
-tires
-brakes bled
-mirrors
-lights wired
-electronics tray

[UFOmoplata]

About done.

Just minor things now:

-Flushmounts from MadHornet is taking forever. It's been three weeks now. Lighting it up would be cake. Need some sort of relay system for the LED taillights, though.

-Some sort of exhaust. I want that cafe sound. I'm thinking that Shorty GP would work:https://www.amazon.com/Radiant-Cycle...oddies+exhaust

-As of now, it's just header.

-Exhaust wrap - Pregen lower fairing and header don't clear. Need to cut it some, or at least sand out clearances.

-If it's too loud, I'll get a Danmoto of some sort.

-Plate mount: Plate

Nothing Major:

-Brake lever: Maybe tighten it up just a bit more.

-Go get it reg'd and plated.

-Bar end mirrors: Need to get those plastic inserts out somehow. The mirror are the type to go inside the handle bars instead of clipping on to the bars.

-New tires: Stock tires are rock hard. Maybe some time in the sun will soften them up?

What I DID do:

-@ducatiman carb service. He said I had the wrong emulsion tubes and that could have contributed to my idle issues. Fixed that and just need to run new gas through it.

-Cut out a fender: Smaller and lighter.

-Brakes bled.

-Wire tucking.

-Fork springs: newgen springs installed/15wt oil.




You could kind of see the fender in this one. I only ever take these profile shots for kind of a visual goal.