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Old February 12th, 2015, 04:19 AM   #1
alex192
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Ignition Barrel - Loose Indicator Connection

Hi guys,

Having a problem with my indicators and traced the problem to the wiring harness that comes immediately out the back of the ignition barrel at the bottom (the one that is cable tied just under the ignition barrel). Basically, with the indicators switched on, when I move the wiring harness that comes out of the ignition barrel, the indicators will either all go off or stay on, depending on the angle that you hold the wires.

The problem is almost definitely with the solder joint for the wire that leads to the indicator relay inside the ignition barrel because apparently they fail over time and can cause such problems. My question now is if it is possible to remove the ignition barrel unit and open up the bottom to have access to where the cables solder in to the board and repair the loose joint, or to buy a complete new ignition barrel and set of keys?

Does anyone have experience with opening up the bottom of the barrel to have access to the electronics? It's looking quite an expensive job to buy a new barrel and set of keys (including tank and seat locks) and to replace the ignition barrel.

Your help is appreciated, cheers!
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Old February 12th, 2015, 08:40 AM   #2
cuong-nutz
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You can open up the barrel but it might be difficult removing the old hardware. Just have some good taps and ez outs handy just in case and take your time.
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Old February 12th, 2015, 11:53 AM   #3
alex192
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I have just had a thought. Would it be possible (/ wise) to bypass the switch in the ignition for the indicator circuit? So in theory the indicators would forever be 'live' (ie connected to +ve battery) so they would function normally when ignition switch is on, but also when the ignition switch is turned off.

Looking at this diagram: http://faq.ninja250.org/images/a/a4/...matic_-_R4.pdf

It appears I can bypass the indicator switching wires (white/green cable to white/black cable) by simply rerouting the white/green cable straight to the grey cable on the far right of the fuse box labelled '+12vdc from main fuse (30 Amps)'.

The only problem I can see from this (apart from the fact that I would be able to operate the indicators without the key in) is that from the ignition switching diagram at the bottom right of the schematic, it appears that the white/green cable for the indicators is connected with the ignition cable (gray) to the white/black +12vdc cable. I assume the ignition circuit is running parallel to the indicator circuit and not in series, as the small diagram suggests?

Thanks for the help, great forum.
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Old February 12th, 2015, 12:40 PM   #4
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You can bypass it at the harness plug by making a jumper from indicator to brown. Ignition switch feeds power from the battery (white) to the fuse box (brown) which powers everything else. I could be wrong here since I'm just going off memory.
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Old February 12th, 2015, 01:48 PM   #5
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I think you are correct that white to brown links the battery to the fuse box, but for some reason the tail light and indicator are on separate circuits. If I go by the same logic then if I jump the white/black (battery) and white/green (indicators) then it should work. The worst that is going to happen is the ignition doesn't work, but I think that might be independent because when my indicators don't work it doesn't affect the ignition in any way.
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Old February 22nd, 2015, 07:57 AM   #6
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Managed to fix the problem if anyone else has this issue.

I simply made a jumper that went into the back of the connector for the ignition switch (connector is underneath fuel tank, but only needed to remove right side fairing and coolant reservoir to get access to it) connecting the orange/green cable to white/black cable. Now this bypasses the ignition switch so the indicators do work even without the key, but it saves having to fit a new ignition barrel.
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Old February 27th, 2015, 11:25 AM   #7
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MOTM - Aug '15
FYI, the blinker and taillight circuits are routed through the ignition switch so that they can be powered when in P. You can bypass it by hooking the white/green wire up to either the white Main (or its white/black fork at the ignition) wire (for always-live flashers) or the brown wire (switched power with the key).

Always-live, someone could accidentally or maliciously drain your battery while the bike is parked. Switched, you can't use them in an emergency situation without the key turned on.

The orange/green wire is the one coming out of the fusebox going to the flasher. If you hooked the white/black directly to that, you've bypassed the turn signal fuse. Hook the white/black to the white/green instead, which supplies the turn signal fuse. Same results, just routed through the fuse for safety.
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Old February 27th, 2015, 05:27 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply. My understanding was that the orange/green cable running from the ignition switch to the connector then connects directly with the white/green cable at the connector which then runs on to the indicator fuse? The jumper that I put in was in the back of the connector which goes to the ignition, between the orange/green and white/black (which in my eyes does the same job as connecting the white/green and white/black on the other side of the connector). Please correct me if I am wrong.

I like the idea of jumping to the brown wire instead, so my indicators can't be operated without the key. Will this give the same effect as if the ignition switch was properly working and the indicators wired correctly (ie indicators can be used when ignition is in park) or will it mean they can only be used when the ignition is turned fully on? Thanks a lot.
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 09:50 PM   #9
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MOTM - Aug '15
Ok, it looks like they used orange/green twice. They use it to connect the white/green of the main harness to the ignition, and from the fuse to the flasher relay. As long as you're talking about the one between white/green and ignition, you're fine.

No, the only way to get flashers in Park is to run it through the ignition switch as designed (unless you mimic it with a relay or something). The circuit runs through the ignition switch because it feeds power into the circuit directly. With the switch in either On or Park, the white/black is bridged to the orange/green and white/green that feed the turn signal fuse. If you connect it to the brown wire, it'll have power only when the brown wire is live, which is when the key is switched on (the brown wire feeds basically all the switched circuits in the junction box). The flashers and taillight get power in Park specifically because they're routed through the poles of the ignition switch.

If the taillight's power isn't intermittent (i.e. working properly), you could tie into the red wire with a relay. The red wire will get power via red/blue from the taillight fuse in On, and directly from the white wire in Park. You'd want to use a relay to avoid adding the load of all the signals onto the taillight fuse, but that circuit will be live in Park, and could therefore be used to trigger a relay to power the signals.
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Old March 3rd, 2015, 05:28 AM   #10
alex192
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For the time being I will probably leave it as is. Before I had this problem I don't think I have ever come back to my bike and turned the ignition on to find the indicators have been left on, so it isn't really much of an issue. Although it would be nice to get them working as they were designed to, ie with key in park, so I might give the relay idea a try when the weather picks up. Cheers for the info.
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