Clutch issue

ZX-Dominance · July 2nd, 2013, 07:54 PM

Hi guys, I'll try to detail this as completely and concisely as possible.

Short and sweet:

my bike is acting like the plates arent getting friction, although it ran through the gears fine shortly before an oil change/clutch swap. I swapped clutches because the pulley arm was pulling the clutch at a very early point. Turns out that the inner lifter arms have varying lengths. I have since tried both clutches, and every combination of plates/lifter arms, etc

All plates are within spec and are installed in the correct direction, springs are at correct size and torqued correctly.

The inner basket turns the counter shaft sprocket when turned by hand.

The outer basket of the clutch only moves slightly each direction before turning the motor.

The engine runs fine, and shifts to first, but doesnt engage the rear wheel. Even with the clutch fully "disengaged"... no cable even connected... The bike will rev and run and the wheel doesnt spin.

I do not have a basket removal tool, but am at a loss as to how that could play a part. As mentioned above, the bike would turn the wheel fine/run through the gears prior to an oil change and clutch swap, but now will not engage the wheel regardless of which clutch stack I use. It acts like there is no pressure coming through the plates at any time.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

BC

Motofool · July 2nd, 2013, 08:17 PM

It seems that you have installed some part of the clutch wrong and the discs are not becoming one block under the expansion of the springs.

baxtc1 · July 2nd, 2013, 08:24 PM

Line up the mark on the cover plate with the mark on the basket. Use the new clutch when doing this to save pulling it apart again.

ZX-Dominance · July 2nd, 2013, 08:25 PM

You would think so.. But it's straight forward. Looks just like it does in the clymer manual, every video online, and in other clutches I've worked on.

I'm realt at a loss

ZX-Dominance · July 2nd, 2013, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baxtc1

Line up the mark on the cover plate with the mark on the basket. Use the new clutch when doing this to save pulling it apart again.

No idea what you're talking about?

Motofool · July 2nd, 2013, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZX-Dominance

You would think so.. But it's straight forward. Looks just like it does in the clymer manual, every video online, and in other clutches I've worked on.

I'm realt at a loss

There is no mystery in these things, torque is transmitted this way:

Crankshaft ----> Inner clutch ------> Package of discs ----> Outer clutch/gear -----> Gear of transmission

Package of discs is the only link that can be disconnected in that chain, ............and it is somehow.

Surgery time

cuong-nutz · July 2nd, 2013, 09:04 PM

Did you adjust the tension of the cable at/near the top of the clutch cover? Too tight will not allow the clutch to engage.

also you positive you have the right amount of friction disks and steel plates?

ZX-Dominance · July 2nd, 2013, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baxtc1

Line up the mark on the cover plate with the mark on the basket. Use the new clutch when doing this to save pulling it apart again.

BINGO! Just found out about the little horseshoe notches.

Incredible that I was able to remove and install the basket 6x and got it wrong every time.

Like flipping a coin and getting heads 6x in a row.

Anyways- she runs like a top. thanks!

baxtc1 · July 2nd, 2013, 10:23 PM

50-50 chance, two correct ways, two incorrect ways.

My mistake, mark is on the clutch hub, not the basket.
[IMG]

[/IMG]

July 2nd, 2013, 07:54 PM	#1
ZX-Dominance ninjette.org newbie Name: BC Location: TX Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): 99 250, 07 ZX6R, 06 KX250F Posts: 8	Clutch issue Hi guys, I'll try to detail this as completely and concisely as possible. Short and sweet: my bike is acting like the plates arent getting friction, although it ran through the gears fine shortly before an oil change/clutch swap. I swapped clutches because the pulley arm was pulling the clutch at a very early point. Turns out that the inner lifter arms have varying lengths. I have since tried both clutches, and every combination of plates/lifter arms, etc All plates are within spec and are installed in the correct direction, springs are at correct size and torqued correctly. The inner basket turns the counter shaft sprocket when turned by hand. The outer basket of the clutch only moves slightly each direction before turning the motor. The engine runs fine, and shifts to first, but doesnt engage the rear wheel. Even with the clutch fully "disengaged"... no cable even connected... The bike will rev and run and the wheel doesnt spin. I do not have a basket removal tool, but am at a loss as to how that could play a part. As mentioned above, the bike would turn the wheel fine/run through the gears prior to an oil change and clutch swap, but now will not engage the wheel regardless of which clutch stack I use. It acts like there is no pressure coming through the plates at any time. Any ideas? Thanks, BC

July 2nd, 2013, 08:17 PM	#2
Motofool Daily Ninjette rider Name: Hernan Location: Florida Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16	It seems that you have installed some part of the clutch wrong and the discs are not becoming one block under the expansion of the springs. __________________________________________________ *Motofool* *.................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly* "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí

July 2nd, 2013, 09:04 PM	#7
cuong-nutz RIP Alex Name: Cuong Location: Houston, TX Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 2	Did you adjust the tension of the cable at/near the top of the clutch cover? Too tight will not allow the clutch to engage. also you positive you have the right amount of friction disks and steel plates? __________________________________________________ HalfFast Racing Team Serving Greater Houston Area Riders:WFO Riders MotoHouston HPC CMRA Ride Smart Fastline Lone Star Track Days

July 2nd, 2013, 10:23 PM	#9
baxtc1 ninjette.org member Name: Robert Location: South of you blokes. Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): '92 GPX 250 (Gone and replaced with '08 V-Strom), 2005 Suzuki C50. Posts: 186	50-50 chance, two correct ways, two incorrect ways. My mistake, mark is on the clutch hub, not the basket. [IMG][/IMG]

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July 2nd, 2013, 08:24 PM	#3
baxtc1 ninjette.org member Name: Robert Location: South of you blokes. Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): '92 GPX 250 (Gone and replaced with '08 V-Strom), 2005 Suzuki C50. Posts: 186	Line up the mark on the cover plate with the mark on the basket. Use the new clutch when doing this to save pulling it apart again.

July 2nd, 2013, 08:25 PM	#4
ZX-Dominance ninjette.org newbie Name: BC Location: TX Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): 99 250, 07 ZX6R, 06 KX250F Posts: 8	You would think so.. But it's straight forward. Looks just like it does in the clymer manual, every video online, and in other clutches I've worked on. I'm realt at a loss