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Old January 4th, 2014, 12:31 PM   #1
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Should I adjust my valves or are they good enough?

Exhaust 1,2,3,4-.009",.009",.008",.007"
Intake 1,2,3,4-.008",.007",.007",.007"

My feeler gauges went from .007-.008-.009", should I check them with more precise gauges?

All of my Intake valves are within spec and close to the middle but my exhaust valves are questionable. This is also my first valve job so the valves may not be measured 100% correctly

I'm thinking that they are good enough for now but a second opinion would be nice.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 12:40 PM   #2
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here's a good explanation for what the clearance can affect
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_ar...ance_ranges%3F
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Old January 4th, 2014, 12:47 PM   #3
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i can't think of what the conversion for inch to mm is right now, but if they are all in spec and it's only the first valve adjust, i would just leave them and button it back up. since they're not all equal just remember to do the next valve check a little early and be prepared to adjust them then. maybe then they will still be the same, maybe they wont. who knows.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 12:52 PM   #4
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i can't think of what the conversion for inch to mm is right now.........
.007" = 0.1778 mm
.008" = 0.2032 mm
.009" = 0.2286 mm
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Old January 4th, 2014, 12:59 PM   #5
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spec: Exhaust: 0.22 mm to 0.29 mm Intake: 0.15 mm to 0.24 mm

Exhaust 1,2,3,4-0.2286 mm, .0.2286 mm, 0.2032 mm, 0.1778 mm
Intake 1,2,3,4- 0.2032 mm, 0.1778 mm, 0.1778 mm, 0.1778 mm

i would adjust those exhaust. probably prudent to set the .20mm intake down to .17 to match the rest.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 01:24 PM   #6
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Do you guys know where I can order shims?>
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Old January 4th, 2014, 01:33 PM   #7
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Also the gasket for the spark plug that goes underneath the cover fell off, how should I get it to stick back on? the other one is stuck to the cover
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Old January 4th, 2014, 01:53 PM   #8
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I usually order the the sizes in packs you need. Hot cams sells a kit but you won't be using most of the other sizes included. You can find them on amazon or eBay. Cam size are 7.48mm.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 01:56 PM   #9
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get the hotcams *REFILL* kit, not the entire kit. only order the sizes you want. its only like $20 for the small kit.

you can use moly grease to hold the gasket in. i think i usually keep them on the head instead of the cover but it should be fine either way. just make sure its placed in correctly cause if you tighten it down and the little metal thing isn't seated correctly, you'll bend the metal part and have to order a new one.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 02:50 PM   #10
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I removed my camshaft chain tensioner and timed the engine but there was slack in the chain that caused the cams to rotate in a weird way. Now the white marks dont match up. Is it ok for me to start disassembling the cams?

I'm at 2T


But this is where my cams are, they were lined up before
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Old January 4th, 2014, 03:49 PM   #11
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don't turn the engine with the chain and cams in but tensioner out.

if you stick your finger in the hole where the tensioner goes, you can push on the chain guide and put tension on the chain. the cams will rotate back to the correct position.

but yes, you can take the cam cage off and remove the cams
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Old January 4th, 2014, 04:03 PM   #12
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Dang kawiforums
Step 1: remove CCT
Step 2: Time engine
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Old January 4th, 2014, 06:33 PM   #13
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Dang kawiforums
Step 1: remove CCT
Step 2: Time engine
Why going that far?
We have all you need here:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9924

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9787

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=83284

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73240

http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008_n..._clearance.htm

http://faq.ninja250.org/torque/ex250j/

And don't forget replacing your plugs and synchronizing your carbs:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changin...d#Installation

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9754
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Old January 4th, 2014, 09:03 PM   #14
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Okay, I purchased a "General" brand micrometer and it only goes to 2.XXmm and I am trying to be consistent with the light pressure I apply. Should I be squeezing the hell out of it to pinch the shim though?

My current readings seem good, however two shims ,EX 3&4, read 2.87 and 2.82 consistently. Are these the hard as hell to find .025mm interval shims? Or should I round them down?

If they are then I only need to purchase a replacement shim for EX 4 and swap IN 5 with EX 3.

@cuong-nutz Do you have a 2.775mm shim by chance? I can only find these in Europe websites. The downtime on my bike is going to be ridiculous
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Old January 4th, 2014, 09:21 PM   #15
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......Should I be squeezing the hell out of it to pinch the shim though?
Good micrometers should have a ratcheted knob with which to put light and consistent pressure on the part to be measured.
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Old January 4th, 2014, 09:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
Good micrometers should have a ratcheted knob with which to put light and consistent pressure on the part to be measured.



That knob is connected to a slide on the ruler, I'm guessing this is not a "good" micrometer
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Old January 4th, 2014, 09:27 PM   #17
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Sorry, cannot see the pic.
In any event, don't put too much pressure.
If you cannot slide the shim out easily, the pressure is enough.

If what you have is one of these, that is a caliper and has no knob, but the same applies about the pressure.

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Old January 7th, 2014, 05:55 AM   #18
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I set the intake on the tight side and the exhaust on the loose side and attempt to match all the numbers as close as possible. This helps with intake lift and exhaust valve cooling.
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