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Old July 8th, 2015, 04:50 PM   #41
choneofakind
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Maybe a little draggy, but not abnormal. Did you try pumping your brake at all to get the pads to clamp and release? if it really bothers you, try cleaning and greasing your caliper slider pins.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 05:01 PM   #42
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Could the brakes dragging make the steering feel off?
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Old July 8th, 2015, 05:07 PM   #43
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doubtful
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Old July 8th, 2015, 11:04 PM   #44
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I'm still trying to figure out what the hype was between tapered roller bearings and typical OEM units.
The tapered roller bearings can take axial and radial force at the same time.
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Old July 9th, 2015, 12:28 AM   #45
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i believe the problem is located in the nut behind the handlebars controlling the bike
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Old July 9th, 2015, 03:17 AM   #46
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i believe the problem is located in the nut behind the handlebars controlling the bike
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Old July 9th, 2015, 09:21 PM   #47
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No one has mentioned this. You said you just got new tires. They are very likely the culprit. New tires are not scrubbed in and have very little abrasion on them. They take a while to break in to be at their peak grip. It is the reason you shouldn't take any hard turns right after installing new tires.

But if the tires have been on bike for over 100 miles it is likely the rider.

Did anything happen that caused you to feel like you lost confidence in riding?
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Old July 9th, 2015, 10:31 PM   #48
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i believe the problem is located in the nut behind the handlebars controlling the bike
I believe the proper terminology is "Nut connecting handle bars to seat."
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Old July 10th, 2015, 12:38 AM   #49
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The front wheel and rear wheel resistance is similar to my bike. You will get a tiny bit of drag from the brakes. Nothing harmful.

If you really want to test to see if they're dragging a lot in the real world, do this test:
Find a nice 50mph road that is empty. Ride 50mph and only use the rear brake to come to a complete stop. Touch the front rotor. They should not be hot. Do the same test for the rear rotor.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 05:20 AM   #50
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Quote:
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I believe the proper terminology is "Nut connecting handle bars to seat."
The problem is that the OEM nut is out of production and aftermarket options are a bit iffy at this point.

@shortyg83 I got the tires months ago and they have hundreds of miles on them.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 05:45 AM   #51
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The front wheel and rear wheel resistance is similar to my bike. You will get a tiny bit of drag from the brakes. Nothing harmful.

If you really want to test to see if they're dragging a lot in the real world, do this test:
Find a nice 50mph road that is empty. Ride 50mph and only use the rear brake to come to a complete stop. Touch the front rotor. They should not be hot. Do the same test for the rear rotor.
I rarely use my rear brake, so this sounds scary.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:29 AM   #52
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I rarely use my rear brake, so this sounds scary.
you need to practice rear braking. it has saved my ass at the track when the front faded.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:49 AM   #53
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Make sure you check your tire pressure. Too high or too low can cause the front to feel different. You check pressure every day or at least once a week.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:55 AM   #54
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Quote:
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you need to practice rear braking. it has saved my ass at the track when the front faded.
I definitely do, the few times I've been down it was because I locked up the rear very quickly.

Quote:
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Make sure you check your tire pressure. Too high or too low can cause the front to feel different. You check pressure every day or at least once a week.
I check it every weekend, and it's always spot on. I'm running 32,36 (I weigh 210). On my IRC's I had to add air every weekend.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 07:46 AM   #55
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Those tire pressure seem high what tires are you running? With my gear I'm about 205 lbs. I run 28 front 29 rear Michelin Pilot Street Radials. My Pirelli Diablo Rosso 2's I ran at 27 front 27 rear. Having them that high is probably what is causing your symptoms.
just my 2 cents
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Old July 10th, 2015, 09:06 AM   #56
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Hmmmm that was what I switched to on the IRC's and it felt better, and I just kept doing the same on the new tires. Now I have BT-45's.

Maybe I'll try dropping some psi for my ride home today and see how it feels.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 09:08 AM   #57
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Just go a pound or two at a time. I don't know what pressure the BTs like.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 05:42 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somchai View Post
The tapered roller bearings can take axial and radial force at the same time.
Well... so can an angular contact ball bearing.

But yeah, it's a nice change to the ninjette to go to rollers.
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Old July 11th, 2015, 12:06 AM   #59
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I definitely do, the few times I've been down it was because I locked up the rear very quickly.
Go somewhere where you can safely do so, ideally a parking lot, and just practice locking up your rear brake and really feel where it likes to lock up. Don't do it so much that you overheat/warp your rotors, but I've got a pretty good idea of how much I can stomp down on the rear brake, and how much I can lock it up before the back of the bike starts to fly around to the front. I practice emergency braking pretty often.
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Old July 12th, 2015, 12:24 PM   #60
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^^^ stomp and rear brake shouldn't go together, just like grab and front brake should be separate.

SQUEEZE the front brake, PRESS the rear brake. If you're locking the rear, I bet you're doing the opposite of what you should do. Go to a parking lot and try panic stops with front brake only to see just how hard you can get on the front brake. Then try easing a little rear brake in and you'll see how easy it is to lock the rear when you're really really on the front brake. Then it's up to you to decide whether that little tiny itsy bitsy amount of added braking on the back wheel is really worth the mental effort in a true panic. Me? I'm a front brake only guy, rear is used to come to a smooth stop at <10 mph and for changing my line/maneuvering. Actual braking is all done with the front brake for me.
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Old July 12th, 2015, 12:37 PM   #61
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Hmmm....

Have another rider take it for spin and get a 2nd opinion.
Get new tires or tire brand anytime recently?
Perhaps you just got better at steering? When you really start to push "forward" instead of down or at an angle, it becomes unbelievably easy to flick the bike over and less than a straight push may start to feel like the bike is fighting you. Yep... it happens during that transition period.
Turning while on the throttle? It's a novice habit that can creep back into your riding from time to time.
Are you taking new roads or routes? Maybe you're feeling the difference in surface.
You getting lazy and not locking on the bike? Too much weight on the arms could have one arm fighting the other while turning or both arms participating in the turn.
Have you went down and not told anyone? Downs can do things to the mind.
You're still looking far enough ahead right and at the right things?

I could go on, but that is enough questions for now.
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Old July 13th, 2015, 06:48 AM   #62
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So it turns out that it was the tire pressure. I THOUGHT I was running 32-36, but I had gotten lazy recently and was relying on the gauge on my tire pump which it turns out is wildly inaccurate. I used to check it with my digital gauge and adjust accordingly but I had gotten out of the habit of doing that.

When I checked on Friday, my front tire was all the way up to 38 psi and the rear was at 40!!! I put them back to 32-36 and rode all weekend with no problems. The weird feeling is gone. Even rode to work today in a thunderstorm with standing water on the expressway and it felt solid.

TLDR
Good News - There's nothing wrong with my bike, it feels great now, and I know what it feels like when tires are over-inflated.

Bad News - I still always forget to check simple things first.
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