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Old June 27th, 2016, 07:16 PM   #1
Fernandyisdandy
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100 ohm resistor

I bought a new ignition switch for my 95 ninja 250 and it doesn't have the 100 ohm resistor in it. Which wire so I need to solder it into? On my old one its on the brown wire but ive read I'm supposed to solder it into the grey wire. Any help is appreciated.
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Old June 27th, 2016, 07:43 PM   #2
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Gray goes to the igniter, where you need the resistor. Brown just feeds the switched circuits in the junction box.
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Old June 27th, 2016, 07:45 PM   #3
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Okay so leave the brown alone, cut and splice the resistor into only the grey wire before the plug in correct?
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Old June 28th, 2016, 07:22 PM   #4
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Does this help?
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Old June 29th, 2016, 08:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fernandyisdandy View Post
Okay so leave the brown alone, cut and splice the resistor into only the grey wire before the plug in correct?
Yes, gray goes to the igniter, where you need the resistor. It's even shown in the wiring diagram.

There shouldn't be any resistors in the brown wire. That would simply reduce the power going to your horn, ignition, and all lights. If there are any resistors there, someone screwed something up, and you should fix that.
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Old September 23rd, 2016, 08:04 AM   #6
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What wattage should the resistor be? I called radio shack and they have them in stock but they have a bunch of different wattage ratings?
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Old September 24th, 2016, 11:55 AM   #7
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What wattage should the resistor be? I called radio shack and they have them in stock but they have a bunch of different wattage ratings?
Calling @InvisiBill

What is the function of this resistor?
How does it prevent the engine to be started up without a proper key?
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Old September 25th, 2016, 06:36 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Anomaly798 View Post
What wattage should the resistor be? I called radio shack and they have them in stock but they have a bunch of different wattage ratings?
I don't know, as I've never needed to rig up a non-OEM ignition switch. It's small enough to fit inside the keyswitch and utilizes the wires going into it, so I'd guess 1W is probably enough, but you're not hurting anything by going bigger.
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Old September 25th, 2016, 06:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
What is the function of this resistor?
How does it prevent the engine to be started up without a proper key?
  1. To keep people from removing the keyswitch and hotwiring the bike.
  2. The igniter is designed to operate only when the gray wire has the resistor on it.
I don't know the technical details of how it works, as the igniter is a pretty "black box" part with not a lot of info available. Reduced voltage maybe? But Kawasaki designed it so that it won't work with straight 12V applied, as would be the case if you cut the ignition switch off and tried to hotwire it. It needs that resistor-modified input in order to function. This means you "need" the ignition keyswitch for the igniter to work, thus preventing hotwiring. If you replace the keyswitch, you need to mimic its security feature as well.
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Old September 25th, 2016, 08:36 AM   #10
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....... If you replace the keyswitch, you need to mimic its security feature as well.
That makes sense.
Thanks!
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 01:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anomaly798 View Post
What wattage should the resistor be? I called radio shack and they have them in stock but they have a bunch of different wattage ratings?
Did anyone ever figure out the wattage? The 1w Radioshack one I'm looking at is huge compared to the 1/2 and 1/4.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 02:12 PM   #12
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If someone would measure the voltage across one while in use, you can use the formula:

V² / 100 = watts
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 02:31 PM   #13
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Thanks. A buddy just bought a theft recovery 08 and is asking for help.
I directed him this way for future help.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 04:27 PM   #14
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kart wiring

still got problems with my engine running full time , sometimes it will run great then it won't ...frustrated , I've been trying to find an aftermarket brainbox , igniter or whatever it's called , to replace the stock unit (realy don't need that PESKY gray wire crap) just started searching forums again for what others are using as a replacement , any help ? OH yes , also built a 250 kart , build is complete , it's ready except for intermittent ignition problems . just a shout out for any help--- thanks
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Old October 4th, 2018, 07:00 PM   #15
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here you go:
https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/meg...d/microsquirt/
http://microsquirt.com/
http://www.msextra.com/forums/

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Old October 6th, 2018, 07:37 AM   #16
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100 ohm resister

I found the exact resister used on the switch (the color stripes indicate ohms , watts, etc) google "resisters" and all info on how to identify resisters is available....to get to my problem/question I'm trying to get in touch with someone who POSITIVELY KNOWS wiring . A diagram showing the ignition, cranking, charging, and cooling circuits is what will help. All the info I've seen so far looks like hack jobs, or wire colors are not identified very well (as in this thread). sorry if I ruffled your feathers. Again...if you KNOW wiring please post. I have over 45 years welding/metal fabrication experience that I can share if anyone might be interested, built several karts, fabricated and repaired many custom motorcycle parts, not to mention all the race car stuff. sort of like Ducatiman ...got lots of experience doing what I do
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Old October 6th, 2018, 07:53 AM   #17
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Is the first gen 100 ohms? For some reason I think it is 130 in the first gen and 100 on the second. I could be wrong. I will look at the wiring diagrams tonight
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Old October 6th, 2018, 12:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gokartmozart View Post
I found the exact resister used on the switch (the color stripes indicate ohms , watts, etc) google "resisters" and all info on how to identify resisters is available....to get to my problem/question I'm trying to get in touch with someone who POSITIVELY KNOWS wiring . A diagram showing the ignition, cranking, charging, and cooling circuits is what will help. All the info I've seen so far looks like hack jobs, or wire colors are not identified very well (as in this thread). sorry if I ruffled your feathers. Again...if you KNOW wiring please post. I have over 45 years welding/metal fabrication experience that I can share if anyone might be interested, built several karts, fabricated and repaired many custom motorcycle parts, not to mention all the race car stuff. sort of like Ducatiman ...got lots of experience doing what I do
No need to re-invent the wheel. There's wiring-diagram at bottom of linked thread in post#5 above. Reverse-engineered from actual bikes and more accurate than factory FSM. Because FSM doesn't show resistor, it's security-feature built into ignition-switch.

There's only TWO types of wires to worry about at ignition-switch.

1. INPUT - brown wire coming in with power from battery
2. OUTPUT - goes to various circuits like horns, lights, etc. ONE of these, is a GREY wire going to the ignition computer

The way it works is the ignition computer compares voltage on GREY wire vs. BLACK/YELLOW wire directly connected to battery. If the voltages are the same, the bike's been hot-wired and it will refuse to start. So the resistor's presence is to signal that it's actually ignition switch that turned on bike.

You've got intermittent problems, nothing to do with the resistor, that's an all/or nothing, black/white, yes/no binary indicator. Either the bike starts or it won't and the condition will be permanent, not random (resistors don't change resistance day-to-day). You've got loose wiring, shorts, or bad connectors somewhere. Pull out the voltmeter and get voltages at every wire, going into and out of every connector.

Also get out hair-dryer and get the ignition computer hot. See if it stumbles then? There's been cases of overheated ones failing.

And... check carbs. I had problem where bike would run for 2-3 laps perfectly fine. Then it'd die like it ran out of gas, kaput! Found this little critter in my float bowl!


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Old October 7th, 2018, 06:54 AM   #19
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100

definitely not carbs, - ultrasonic cleaned 3 times. gray wire is at ign switch (needs to be switched on)? BK/Y on igniter--- OK to frame ground ? where should white and brown on reg/rec be connected? G/BK on igniter, (safety switches) OK to frame ground? BR/BK on igniter, 10A fused from ig sw? not sure if my wiring is causing some sort of interference to make ignition intermittent
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Old October 7th, 2018, 08:06 AM   #20
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I was just looking through the diagrams and service manual. Can someone show me any reference to the resistor.

Anyhow I found a resistor that was removed from a first gen ignition switch. It measures 330 ohms.
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Old October 7th, 2018, 10:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
I was just looking through the diagrams and service manual. Can someone show me any reference to the resistor.

Anyhow I found a resistor that was removed from a first gen ignition switch. It measures 330 ohms.
I suppose any voltage-drop would be OK. Take a look at upper-left of diagram here: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...75&postcount=8



I doubt we'd find any official reference to resistor since it's a component INSIDE ignition switch. Similar to finding references to individual odometer gears. Smallest component that'll have a part# is ignition-switch or instrument cluster.

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Old October 7th, 2018, 10:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gokartmozart View Post
definitely not carbs, - ultrasonic cleaned 3 times.
Did you completely disassemble carbs down to bare jets?
Did you poke cooper wire of various gauges through all the holes?
Did you floss out all hidden fuel-circuit passages?
Did you soda-blast them afterwards to clean out the debris?
There are guys who can rebuild engines with their teeth and both hands tied behind their backs who've had to pull carbs 4-5 times and do more thorough "cleaning" before their carbs were back to factory fresh condition. Some threads of interest:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=318676
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315193
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=316395
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=317977
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=318271 - don't rule out clogged filters
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=317810
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=280658
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show....php?p=1041052 - Ultimate solution to your problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gokartmozart View Post
gray wire is at ign switch (needs to be switched on)? BK/Y on igniter--- OK to frame ground ? where should white and brown on reg/rec be connected? G/BK on igniter, (safety switches) OK to frame ground? BR/BK on igniter, 10A fused from ig sw? not sure if my wiring is causing some sort of interference to make ignition intermittent
The fact that you're asking these questions tells me you definitely have wiring problem. Take a look at wiring diagram: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...75&postcount=8
Wiring doesn't cause interference, high-voltage does. Is your ignition computer same distance or further away from ignition coils than factory? If not, build Faraday-cage around it to be sure. I've built them around server closets to encapsulating entire buildings to reduce interference.

Also rent, buy, steal an oscilloscope. Will solve your problem in 5-minutes.
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Old October 7th, 2018, 02:08 PM   #23
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Thanks for the links , I'll pull carbs again , didn't floss passages, just blew with compressed air. Maybe try a different cleaner in ultrasonic, been using a product formulated for sonic cleaners , don't remember the name but it has always worked for other small engine carbs. Will take some time to look at all the links , and try all suggestions . thanks for all the help ... still wondering about those wire locations though.
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Old October 8th, 2018, 09:11 PM   #24
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Don't ground to frame, too unreliable. Wire directly to battery as shown in wiring-diagram. Same with all other wires. Only thing that should be grounded to frame is starter.

Crimp, solder AND heatshrink-wrap your terminals. That's done in military, aerospace and motorsports (F1) for a reason.

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