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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:10 PM   #1
Slono
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Area-P 18" Quiet Core SS Full Exhaust Video

I just installed the exhaust I bought from ForceofWill months ago. The video was taken using my iPhone 4s but the quality and sound is decent. Like everybody else who has tried to record the awesomeness of this exhaust, it just doesn't do it justice. The rumble and low bass that this exhaust gives is amazing.

Here it is:

Link to original page on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qszfihkbZ5M

Note: There seems to be something wrong with the embedding. Can anybody help me with this?


Last futzed with by Slono; March 16th, 2012 at 09:06 PM.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 08:34 PM   #2
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[.youtube]qszfihkbZ5M[./youtube]

Do this ^ Without the periods

Sounds good. Area P is a pretty solid exhaust
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Old March 16th, 2012, 09:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeBudd View Post
[.youtube]qszfihkbZ5M[./youtube]

Do this ^ Without the periods

Sounds good. Area P is a pretty solid exhaust
AHHHHhh thanks!

Yeah it is. I still have to re-jet, but that'll have to wait another day. This install took me a while, and I only had a foot and a half on each end to work so I was pretty cramped the whole time.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 05:25 PM   #4
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woo!! I just had mine put in a few days ago, too! I'm in love with how it sounds

have you noticed any bogging issues? like, just off-idle, if I blip the throttle, the revs drop real low (if the engine's still cold, it'll stall) and then come back up to regular idle.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 06:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heylookitsfranco View Post
woo!! I just had mine put in a few days ago, too! I'm in love with how it sounds

have you noticed any bogging issues? like, just off-idle, if I blip the throttle, the revs drop real low (if the engine's still cold, it'll stall) and then come back up to regular idle.
That only happens to me when I try to blip it when its cold. After a few minutes it completely disappears.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 06:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heylookitsfranco View Post
woo!! I just had mine put in a few days ago, too! I'm in love with how it sounds

have you noticed any bogging issues? like, just off-idle, if I blip the throttle, the revs drop real low (if the engine's still cold, it'll stall) and then come back up to regular idle.
above = lean on pilot circuit, open the fuel screw(middle of carb just at front of float bowls) try 1/4 turn increments. stop opening when idle stops climbing. maybe 1/8 turn past when idle stops climbing. if you are more than 3-4 turns out from bottomed but next bigger pilot jet and try again.

Cannot just drop a full system on and NOT rejet. you will be too lean!!!results can be piston melt down if you run it hard.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 06:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasle View Post
above = lean on pilot circuit, open the fuel screw(middle of carb just at front of float bowls) try 1/4 turn increments. stop opening when idle stops climbing. maybe 1/8 turn past when idle stops climbing. if you are more than 3-4 turns out from bottomed but next bigger pilot jet and try again.

Cannot just drop a full system on and NOT rejet. you will be too lean!!!results can be piston melt down if you run it hard.
Is this really true??? My bike seemed to be ok, no bogging issues, just the normal warm up time of 3-5 minutes.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 07:10 PM   #8
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Did you notice the size difference between stock pipes and the full system? you just increased the amount of air flowing through your motor but did not increase the amount of fuel going in to your motor.

Too much fuel in the fuel-air mixture is referred to as too rich, and not enough fuel is too lean.

Seems fine does not actually mean fine. If you left your stock air filter in you [I]might[I] be OK, not really worth the chance IMO.

You need to check your plugs for the main jet. If it is bogging, it is too lean on the pilot...need to adjust the fuel screws.

I would not send someones bike out of my shop after changing a pipe without jetting. That is part of the deal. Pipe plus jetting or go somewhere else. I'm not going to smoke someones motor.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 08:08 PM   #9
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Everything on my bike is stock except the exhaust. I have some Dynojet needles I got from somebody but I haven't had the opportunity to re-jet it yet. I don't have a proper dyno to use, so I'll be using the butt dyno method. On average how long does this process take a person? With a baby due in a week and lots of things to get done I'm afraid I won't have time!
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Old March 18th, 2012, 09:17 AM   #10
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What is the diameter or the header pipes? I believe the stock ones are 1"... I'm planning on using 1.37" tube, but I'm worried it might be too big...
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Old March 18th, 2012, 09:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slono View Post
Everything on my bike is stock except the exhaust. I have some Dynojet needles I got from somebody but I haven't had the opportunity to re-jet it yet. I don't have a proper dyno to use, so I'll be using the butt dyno method. On average how long does this process take a person? With a baby due in a week and lots of things to get done I'm afraid I won't have time!
not to bust on you but...if you are asking how long it will take someone you are probably on the high end of the time. My kid can pull the seat, tank, carbs..swap the jets, reinstall...about 30 min. We have no airbox though making it easier. I'd figure 2-3 hours for a novice. Get a full jet kit or use your needles and buy some jets. get a few sizes above. look at the jeting database and you can find someone with your same setup. that is a good starting place.
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Old March 18th, 2012, 10:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasle View Post
My kid can pull the seat, tank, carbs..swap the jets, reinstall...about 30 min. We have no airbox though making it easier
Impressive!!!

My best time is like 35 minutes from taking off the first fairing screw to putting the last body panel back on. I have a modified airbox though, so it's pretty much the same deal.
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Old March 18th, 2012, 08:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasle View Post
above = lean on pilot circuit, open the fuel screw(middle of carb just at front of float bowls) try 1/4 turn increments. stop opening when idle stops climbing. maybe 1/8 turn past when idle stops climbing. if you are more than 3-4 turns out from bottomed but next bigger pilot jet and try again.

Cannot just drop a full system on and NOT rejet. you will be too lean!!!results can be piston melt down if you run it hard.
I had the guys I went to install the jet kit along with the exhaust, but I guess there's some fine tuning left to do? for example, I think they left the snorkel in-- would that make any difference?

sorry for the thread hijack I figure it's useful info either way, right? (or i can start a new thread if you'd prefer. I just like to steal people's thunder and put it in my exhaust)
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Old March 20th, 2012, 10:41 PM   #14
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I'm curious to know how many people leave the snorkel in. All Area-P owners in the jetting database thread state that their snorkels are removed... and I kind of want to leave mine in because I don't want to tinker with too much too soon.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:40 AM   #15
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def remove snorkel it helps and you can feel it a bit in the seat
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 07:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I'm curious to know how many people leave the snorkel in. All Area-P owners in the jetting database thread state that their snorkels are removed... and I kind of want to leave mine in because I don't want to tinker with too much too soon.
my bike only has 235 miles on it.

ive got a PLMFG (area p clone) full exhaust, pulled the snorkel and added 3 #4 washers on to the needles in the carbs and it runs ALOT better then it did when it was..

- completely stock
and
- full exhaust no adjustments to the carbs

even if you dont pull the snorkel i would def look into adding some washers. plus its so simple and makes the bike powerband feel alot smoother.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:10 PM   #17
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my bike only has 235 miles on it.

ive got a PLMFG (area p clone) full exhaust, pulled the snorkel and added 3 #4 washers on to the needles in the carbs and it runs ALOT better then it did when it was..

- completely stock
and
- full exhaust no adjustments to the carbs

even if you dont pull the snorkel i would def look into adding some washers. plus its so simple and makes the bike powerband feel alot smoother.
I went to 4 hardware stores and none of them have #4 washers or 3mm washers.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:19 PM   #18
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I got mine in an assortedwasher bag from radio shack.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:21 PM   #19
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I got mine in an assortedwasher bag from radio shack.
I can't seem to find anymore radio shacks in Canada. I think it may have become "the source".. last time I checked they didn't have anything but maybe it varies by location.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:30 PM   #20
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Maybe try local hobby stores? U could always get them online abd wait for them to be delivered?
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:31 PM   #21
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then ship it to yourself

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103391
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:35 PM   #22
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They don't ship to Canada.

I found a couple radio shacks in my city, but they could be old listings. I'll check them out tomorrow.

Edit: They're both old listings. I just called (after hours) expecting a voice mail, but they're different companies occupy both locations.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:41 PM   #23
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Maybe try local hobby stores? U could always get them online abd wait for them to be delivered?
Yeah I'll start looking online.

Question to everybody who's shimmed, I have a jet kit, and there's a plastic clip that clips into position on whatever notch selection you choose. Does this mean I should just change the notch position if my bike is running lean to a higher notch, or do I need to change the jet size?
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:52 PM   #24
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Depends where in the throttle range that you're having lean symptoms. WOT is mains. 25-85% is needle, 0-25% is idle mix. The middle ranges are overlap...

FTR, raising the needle (using a physically lower clip position) is what richens the midrange

lowering the needle (using a physically higher clip position) leans it.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:57 PM   #25
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Depends where in the throttle range that you're having lean symptoms. WOT is mains. 25-85% is needle, 0-25% is idle mix. The middle ranges are overlap...

FTR, raising the needle (using a physically lower clip position) is what richens the midrange

lowering the needle (using a physically higher clip position) leans it.
Right now I think the whole thing is lean then. It accelerates at a slower rate than when it was stock and WOT is pitiful (compared to stock). In 5th gear I can get up to 11,500 rpms, but WOT on 6th, I can't get past 10,000. I adjusted the idle mixtures today before riding to work and the low range is MUCH better. Its now at 3.5 turns, but idles at about 1900-2000 rpms.

If I increase the size of the main jet, does this mean I have to lower everything else, or are they totally unrelated? For example, if I increase the main jets to dynojet 100 size, do I have to reset my idle mixtures to stock @ 2.75?
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 08:59 PM   #26
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You'll have to do those again yes.

Start large, work your way down.

Main jets, then needles, then pilot jets.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:02 PM   #27
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You'll have to do those again yes.

Start large, work your way down.

Main jets, then needles, then pilot jets.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
Thanks. I guess I'll have to adjust my mains. I took your suggestion and opened the choke while I was cruising at 8000 rpms and it bogged. Now I know what bogging is, its not a constant shaking or stuttering effect, its a kind of sudden gasp. I had no idea what the difference was between the two until today.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:05 PM   #28
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good! learning as you go

just for contrast, if you want to feel what lean feels like, pull the snorkel, and don't add any washers to the needles. Then do a really gradual roll-on until you get it up to like 11k without being WOT it'll start surging and have a giant flat feeling. Gotta tune the butt-dyno
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:08 PM   #29
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good! learning as you go

just for contrast, if you want to feel what lean feels like, pull the snorkel, and don't add any washers to the needles. Then do a really gradual roll-on until you get it up to like 11k without being WOT it'll start surging and have a giant flat feeling. Gotta tune the butt-dyno
I thought being "flat" just meant it doesn't accelerate past a certain speed / RPM, which = lean. That's what I'm experiencing anywhere past 8,000 rpms. The stuttering only occurs when I blip the throttle cold. Also during WOT, it accelerates slowly, but that's about it... there's actually a surge feeling too?
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:23 PM   #30
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sometimes. Depends how lean it is.

Sounds like you definitely need to swap in the next size larger jet and see how she feels
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 09:31 PM   #31
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sometimes. Depends how lean it is.

Sounds like you definitely need to swap in the next size larger jet and see how she feels
I'll do that as soon as I can and report back.

Thanks for the suggestions!
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