November 11th, 2010, 05:38 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Engine ticking at idle?
I havent discountrd the possibility that I just happened to relatively recently notice a noise that has already been there, and now I am focusing on it so it sounds louder.
I checked all the valve lashes today, and they are all within spec. I was really expecting them to be really loose, because that was the cause of valve tick in every other case Ive experienced. The engine is still running fine, and I have changed the oil and filter every 2k miles with mobile 1. My only two guesses for a noise like this would have been large valve gaps or injector noise. Valve lash is fine and I have carbs, so Im at a loss. II will put up a video tomorrow, but does this sound like anything you have experienced with your ninjettes? Posted via Mobile Device |
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November 11th, 2010, 06:41 PM | #2 |
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cam chain tensioner
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November 12th, 2010, 05:10 PM | #3 |
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My 250 has been doing it for at least the last 10,000mi+
I think what you're noticing is commonly called the "Kawai click" From what I've been told it is indeed a weak automatic cam chain tensioner (CCT) that happens with a lot of Kawasaki bikes. Kawasaki supposedly just makes the tension a little low, thus the cam chain slaps around a little more, making some clatter. I have personally tried buying/installing a new OEM CCT, which changed nothing. I did that after checking the valve lash and they were all well within spec; just checked them again today and same deal. I'm seriously considering a manual cam chain tensioner, but not to the 'do it' point just yet.
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November 12th, 2010, 06:52 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org sage
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Ok, so this means that it is the CCT making the noise, but it does not necessarily need replacing?
Thanks for that info, Momaru. And sorry about the video, I've been really busy the last couple days .
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November 13th, 2010, 04:43 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
My replacement CCT didn't do jack. And the screw threads strip easier than anything I have ever seen. I am planning on getting something like this tensioner when I do my next valve job: http://zxzone.com/tensioners.html
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November 15th, 2010, 12:42 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Regarding the video, I'm guilty of the same thing; planning to make one for the CCT click and never quite getting around to it. There's a handful of similar threads around though if you want to do some further reading on the subject. FWIW, if the chatter really bothers you, I've read on some other forums it is possible to back off the the CCT mounting bolts (the pair of 8mm ones) just a hair (like half a turn or less) to force the CCT to extend a little, then re-tighten them. Our CCT is designed to automatically extend, but not retract (without getting a screwdriver and manually re-winding it) so that'll increase the chain tension slightly. That said, it is very possible to cause engine damage doing this through over-tensioning your cam chain. Possible results include: stretched/damaged cam chain, worn guides, accelerated wear of cam/main driveshaft sprockets, and in worst case engine failure. Also known as: proceed at your own risk. However similar results are possible with the a manual CCT.
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November 15th, 2010, 12:59 PM | #7 |
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I was wondering, for those that opt to install a manual CCT, how do you tension it properly?
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November 15th, 2010, 05:36 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
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Wow thanks for that info! I will search around too, so thanks for the tip as well.
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November 15th, 2010, 10:12 PM | #9 |
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My bike did this too. I checked, re-checked and triple checked the valves, CCT, cam chain and everything. Then it started getting warmer as summer was approaching, so I put in 20-50W oil and it went away.... Ran it all summer like that. Switched back to 10w40 in the fall, and on the hotter days it would click. At 32F, it starts to click again.. Wondering if 5w30 will solve the problem in the colder months...
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November 20th, 2010, 05:54 PM | #10 |
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I played with the CCT mounting bolts, backing them out as much as a half-mm and nothing changed. I switched to Rotella T6 5w-40 and now the noise is largely gone (what I can still hear I am not sure if it is the same noise or just the noise that was already there). Though I think it is because I was running 10w-30, which I now realize was too thin for the engine.
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November 23rd, 2010, 09:07 PM | #11 |
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Reading all these replies, i'm seeing that all you run 2008 bikes. Does that mean that this problem has been solved for the 2010 models?
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November 23rd, 2010, 09:07 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Arg. Internal tick went away, but now since I have no gaskets on my new exhaust I get that nice tick from there :P . Gotta try to fix that tomorrow.
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December 16th, 2010, 05:29 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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BTW, it started ticking again a bit ago, so today I loosened and reset the CCT by turning the inner screw behind the center 10mm bolt, and let it reseat itself against the chain. At least for now, that seemed to get rid of the ticking.
Posted via Mobile Device Last futzed with by JMcDonald; December 16th, 2010 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Clarification. |
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December 17th, 2010, 08:41 AM | #14 |
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Does the ticking happen even at idle? Is it linked to engine or drivetrain speed? I'm just hoping that it's not the valves in my case.
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December 17th, 2010, 10:11 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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It only happened, or at least was noticable, at or near idle. From about 1-2.25k RPM (like if I blipped the throttle or if the engine was coming down after pulling in the clutch to stop). It happened whether or not the tranny was in gear.
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