Got a few tech questions for you masters...

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Bk834

...its like a different bike.

Have you checked gas mileage?

[Bk834]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Have you checked gas mileage?

Not against stock, I didn't have it long enough before I did the mods. It gets around 45mpg on average now, if I stay outta the throttle.

[Triple Jim]

You might try going a little leaner in the low-midrange area. Mine's dead stock and I get 65-70 mpg. What do your plugs look like?

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by Mohawk

Go here to download dynojet installation PDF.
http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motor...le&vm=kawasaki

Glad you got it working.

@Mohawk- Thanks, man. That helped out A LOT. I ended up pulling the carbs back out and placing the clips where they suggested for the setup I have. Remember, one of my clips is still a little piece of wire (I looked everywhere locally for a c-clip that would fit, but to no avail. I have some coming in the mail, should be in this week). I modified it a bit so that it wasn't as janky as it was. Regardless, both clips are now in the same position, and at what dynajet suggested for my K&N air filter but stock airbox and straightpipe exhaust. I also adjusted the air/fuel screw out to 2.5 turns. I checked that the hole in the slide net to the needle was drilled out to 7/64", surprisingly it was perfect. I put it all back together and set the choke. It's about 65 degrees here today, she fired right up in half a second and I immediately backed the choke all the way off and she settled down. Idle was waaaay too high so I backed it off and fine tuned it once the bike was warm. MAN. What a difference. It's great now. Took it out for a test drive and she FLIES. =)
Regarding the temps of the exhaust manifolds, what do those tell you? I seemed to be getting about 40-50 degrees hotter at idle on one, but my IR thermometer is the EL cheapo version. I assume it'll tell you if one cylinder is running lean, it'll be hotter.
I guess I need to spring for the entire jet kit. I have no idea what jets are in there, I couldn't find markings on them. They have obviously been monkied with because the slot is munged up where somebody used a small slotted screwdriver.
I know I can't even try to fine tune until I get that proper clip in place... right now I would be wasting my time. Anyway I'm just happy to have made progress and (hopefully) found the main problem.
While I had the bike apart I replaced every missing screw/bolt- there were about 10. Most were from the fairings, but the coolant resevior was missing one as was the fuse panel assembly and the gas tank (the back bolts near the battery). I also put dielectric grease on every part of the ignition system and all other plugs I could get to without much trouble. The plugs going to the coils were pretty loose, so I squeezed them with some plier to tighten them back up.

[sickopsycho]

@Bk834 which dynajet kit do you have? I have to assume from the mods that I have the stage 1-3 on mine. I would assume (I have to assume) he put the stage 1 jets in, as I don't have a pod filter and the stage 3 setup would prolly run me too rich. I was reading the dynajet instructions and for my setup they recommend the 98 mains and the clip on the3rd from the top. This is the "stage 1" setup.
For the pod filters, and a aftermarket straightpipe they suggest the clip on the 4th from the top and running a 114 main. That was the "stage 3" setup.

This is assuming a similarity between the factory pro and dynajet kits.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

Regarding the temps of the exhaust manifolds, what do those tell you? I seemed to be getting about 40-50 degrees hotter at idle on one, but my IR thermometer is the EL cheapo version. I assume it'll tell you if one cylinder is running lean, it'll be hotter.

Most likely it's just carb idle synch. The hot one's cylinder is doing more work at idle.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

@Bk834 which dynajet kit do you have? I have to assume from the mods that I have the stage 1-3 on mine. I would assume (I have to assume) he put the stage 1 jets in, as I don't have a pod filter and the stage 3 setup would prolly run me too rich. I was reading the dynajet instructions and for my setup they recommend the 98 mains and the clip on the3rd from the top. This is the "stage 1" setup.
For the pod filters, and a aftermarket straightpipe they suggest the clip on the 4th from the top and running a 114 main. That was the "stage 3" setup.

This is assuming a similarity between the factory pro and dynajet kits.

Dynojet uses their own jet numbering system, so be careful when cross-referencing with stock jets or Factory Pro (same as oem).

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Dynojet uses their own jet numbering system, so be careful when cross-referencing with stock jets or Factory Pro (same as oem).

Yeah, I was gonna go by this...
Here are some main jet conversions between manufactures-

Width------Keihin # -- DynoJet # --- Mikuni #
0.0350---- 92.5--------- 92----------- 86.3
0.0360---- 95----------- 94----------- 88.1
0.0370---- 97.5--------- 96----------- 90.0
0.0380---- 100---------- 98----------- 91.9
0.0390---- 102.5------- 100---------- 93.8
0.0400---- 105--------- 102---------- 95.6
0.0410---- 107.5------- 104---------- 97.5
0.0420---- 110--------- 106---------- 99.4
0.0430---- 112.5------- 108--------- 101.3
0.0440---- 115--------- 110--------- 103.1
0.0450---- 117.5------- 112--------- 105.0
0.0460---- 120--------- 114--------- 106.9
0.0470---- 122.5------- 116--------- 108.8
0.0480---- 125--------- 118--------- 110.6
0.0490---- 127.5------- 120--------- 112.5
0.0500---- 130--------- 122--------- 114.4

Think there's even a factory pro conversion table somewhere, Just couldn't find it. =)

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

Yeah, I was gonna go by this...
Here are some main jet conversions between manufactures-

Width------Keihin # -- DynoJet # --- Mikuni #
0.0350---- 92.5--------- 92----------- 86.3
0.0360---- 95----------- 94----------- 88.1
0.0370---- 97.5--------- 96----------- 90.0
0.0380---- 100---------- 98----------- 91.9
0.0390---- 102.5------- 100---------- 93.8
0.0400---- 105--------- 102---------- 95.6
0.0410---- 107.5------- 104---------- 97.5
0.0420---- 110--------- 106---------- 99.4
0.0430---- 112.5------- 108--------- 101.3
0.0440---- 115--------- 110--------- 103.1
0.0450---- 117.5------- 112--------- 105.0
0.0460---- 120--------- 114--------- 106.9
0.0470---- 122.5------- 116--------- 108.8
0.0480---- 125--------- 118--------- 110.6
0.0490---- 127.5------- 120--------- 112.5
0.0500---- 130--------- 122--------- 114.4

Think there's even a factory pro conversion table somewhere, Just couldn't find it. =)

I believe Factory Pro uses OEM jets in their kits - which is smart.


Dynojet...not so much...

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Most likely it's just carb idle synch. The hot one's cylinder is doing more work at idle.

I read somewhere that you can sync them on the bench. I couldn't find the article so I used my mechanical engineering skills () to do it. I think a feeler guage was used in the article I read, but I simply lined them up. I figured out how they worked first...
One carb is the "master carb" and the other one syncs to it. In other words when you adjust the sync screw, you are only adjusting the butterfly in one carb to match the other, which is static.
I looked at the static one, and noticed there is a really good way to tell if they are matched because of some small pinholes (vacuum ports, I assume) in the body. The static, or master carb has one hole fully exposed and another right behind it halfway covered. These pinholes are tiny, such as a quarter to half turn of the adjuster screw will either fully expose or fully hide the hole. So I just lined the other one up the same way. One hole fully exposed and the other half covered. When I ever so slightly touch the throttle, the butterflies line up at the edge of the hole. When I release the throttle they both line up halfway covering said hole. My girl has much better eyes than me, I had her look at it and confirm. =)
Sound like a reasonable approach? I would much prefer using a feeler guage if anyone knows that method...

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by jkv45

I believe Factory Pro uses OEM jets in their kits - which is smart.

I'm leaning more and more towards shelling out the $75 to get the factory pro kit. At least I'll know what I have in there and can actually tune the thing properly. I'm just catching a lot of flak because I bought the bike as a more financially reasonable alternative to a car. At least, that's what I told my girl
She keeps seeing me put money into it and shaking her head lol...
We just got a joint checking account, too, so it's not like I can get it by her.

[Triple Jim]

I've been known to synch my H2's idle by feeling the three pipes' exhaust pulses, other times by checking head pipe temperatures. Usually exhaust pulses. The crossover in the stock Ninja 250 system blurs that a little, but it would still be a quick check to see if they're close.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

......
Sound like a reasonable approach? I would much prefer using a feeler guage if anyone knows that method...

It does.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...carburetors%3F

[Bk834]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

You might try going a little leaner in the low-midrange area. Mine's dead stock and I get 65-70 mpg. What do your plugs look like?

I certainly did when I was rebuilding this carb. The pilot is only 1 size up from stock which was a 38, it improved the mid range response nicely, so I'm willing to take the small gas mileage drop for the trade off in performance. Most stock ninjas are in the 40-50mpg range, so it's a trade off I'm fine with. Plugs show the fuel/air mixture is fine now. It was actually incredibly lean stock.

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

@Bk834 which dynajet kit do you have? I have to assume from the mods that I have the stage 1-3 on mine. I would assume (I have to assume) he put the stage 1 jets in, as I don't have a pod filter and the stage 3 setup would prolly run me too rich. I was reading the dynajet instructions and for my setup they recommend the 98 mains and the clip on the3rd from the top. This is the "stage 1" setup.
For the pod filters, and a aftermarket straightpipe they suggest the clip on the 4th from the top and running a 114 main. That was the "stage 3" setup.

This is assuming a similarity between the factory pro and dynajet kits.

I have the factory pro stage 3 kit. With Just a pod air filter, and stock exhaust installed. If I went with a better flowing exhaust setup, I would probably need the 114 jet, and the needles sitting a little higher. If you still have the stock filter setup, with aftermarket exhaust, you will probably be setup right with a 108 main, and the needles at the 2nd clip position.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Bk834

Most stock ninjas are in the 40-50mpg range...

Whaaaaa?

[Bk834]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Whaaaaa?

Don't ask me. That's the consensus according to el goog.

Either way 45mpg isn't hurting me any. That's over twice what I've gotten in any cage I've ever owned. DDing this bike saves me a good bit of money each week. Though I think I'm going back to a V8 Challenger for winter soon, lol.

[Triple Jim]

If a stock 250 got under 60 I'd be looking for something wrong. I get low-mid 60s with spirited riding on the back roads around here, and my little lightweight daughter gets right around 70.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

If a stock 250 got under 60 I'd be looking for something wrong. I get low-mid 60s with spirited riding on the back roads around here, and my little lightweight daughter gets right around 70.

That seems about right.

Our beater Ninja 250, without fairings and running near redline most of the time (oldest boy riding...) does get around 40.

I get a consistent 50 mpg with my naked SV650 no matter how or where I ride it. Best I've got is just over 60.

[Triple Jim]

Mine has no fairings either, by the way.

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by Motofool

It does.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...carburetors%3F

Thanks- THAT was where I read the feeler guage method, lol. Remember, I started trying to sync with the poor mans "oil in tube" method, but upon cranking all of the oil got sucked into one cylinder. That should have been a good indication that one wasn't firing at all. Lol. Might give that one a shot again now that I have her purring like a baby tiger.

Originally Posted by Bk834

I have the factory pro stage 3 kit. With Just a pod air filter, and stock exhaust installed. If I went with a better flowing exhaust setup, I would probably need the 114 jet, and the needles sitting a little higher. If you still have the stock filter setup, with aftermarket exhaust, you will probably be setup right with a 108 main, and the needles at the 2nd clip position.

I have the stock airbox, but a K&N air filter (the one that connects directly to the 2 air inlet holes on the airbox, replacing the element inside). It would appear to have a higher airflow than a stock filter setup. I also have a straightpipe style exhaust. Not sure which jets I have, that's the problem. I couldn't find markings on them when I removed them to clean. They were a little munged up from someone using the wrong screwdriver (NOT ME!!!). When you say the second clip posistion, do you mean the second from the top? I have it set currently on the 3rd down from the top and it pulls strong, but I can easily move them and run it a little leaner to see what it does. I know I have to play with it, but I'd much rather run a richer mixture and suffer poor gas milage than run it lean and risk damage to the motor.

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I've been known to synch my H2's idle by feeling the three pipes' exhaust pulses, other times by checking head pipe temperatures. Usually exhaust pulses. The crossover in the stock Ninja 250 system blurs that a little, but it would still be a quick check to see if they're close.

Could you explain this method to me? When you're feeling the pulses, are you feeling to make sure each cylinder IS firing, or do your fingers have an exhaust gas analyzer built into them?
Seriously, though- What do you mean by this... is it just that I'm stressing this waay too much and as long as they are pretty close then that's plenty good? Plenty close meaning each cylinder is firing reliably at idle and that's all that really matters in syncing the carbs?


On another note- my clutch is slipping a bit. Seems to have only happened in 2nd gear for some reason, but that may be cause that's the only gear I've really gotten on it in. It has happened like maybe 3 times, and only when the bike is cold. It slips once, then is fine. Again, I haven't really gotten on it much, haven't had her over 9k rpms yet even. I changed the oil with a standard 10w40 oil as per the reccomendations from kawasaki for my temp range in the area. I honestly looked for a fully synthetic 10w-40, but couldn't find one when I looked. I have since found some, and only through motorcycle shops (I thought Amazon sold everything!). Man, is it pricey. Anyway- I also read somewhere that the fully synthetic isn't good for the wet clutch. But then I read everywhere that it's the best for this bike. If the previous owner had been using synthetic and I switched to standard would this cause the clutch issue? Or is it likely something else?

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

On another note- my clutch is slipping a bit. Seems to have only happened in 2nd gear for some reason, but that may be cause that's the only gear I've really gotten on it in. It has happened like maybe 3 times, and only when the bike is cold. It slips once, then is fine. Again, I haven't really gotten on it much, haven't had her over 9k rpms yet even. I changed the oil with a standard 10w40 oil as per the reccomendations from kawasaki for my temp range in the area. I honestly looked for a fully synthetic 10w-40, but couldn't find one when I looked. I have since found some, and only through motorcycle shops (I thought Amazon sold everything!). Man, is it pricey. Anyway- I also read somewhere that the fully synthetic isn't good for the wet clutch. But then I read everywhere that it's the best for this bike. If the previous owner had been using synthetic and I switched to standard would this cause the clutch issue? Or is it likely something else?

Synthetic oil isn't any more "slippery" than conventional oil, it just has a closed molecular structure that withstands abuse better without breaking apart (among other advantages).

The standard recommendation for a good quality oil that's inexpensive and rated for cycle clutches is Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. It's a lower-end synthetic, but still far superior to conventional oils. Changing for conventional to synthetic and back does not create any issues.

The oil you don't want to use is any standard automotive oil.

Chances are you clutch springs need replacing. It's not uncommon, as they are pretty weak even when new.

Here's some info on the clutch - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Clutch_%26_Transmission - last line is the section on spring replacement.

Check that your clutch cable adjustment is correct also.

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Synthetic oil isn't any more "slippery" than conventional oil, it just has a closed molecular structure that withstands abuse better without breaking apart (among other advantages).

The standard recommendation for a good quality oil that's inexpensive and rated for cycle clutches is Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. It's a lower-end synthetic, but still far superior to conventional oils. Changing for conventional to synthetic and back does not create any issues.

The oil you don't want to use is any standard automotive oil.

Chances are you clutch springs need replacing. It's not uncommon, as they are pretty weak even when new.

Here's some info on the clutch - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Clutch_%26_Transmission - last line is the section on spring replacement.

Check that your clutch cable adjustment is correct also.

10-4. Well, that's what I put in there was a high quality, but standard automotive oil. I haven't put 20 miles on the bike so I doubt it did any noticable damage, but I'll get some Rotella tonight and dump it and replace. I thought Rotella was made specifically for Diesel engines, or is this a formula made for bikes? Regardless- thanks for the input. I'll check adjustment while I'm at it.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

10-4. Well, that's what I put in there was a high quality, but standard automotive oil. I haven't put 20 miles on the bike so I doubt it did any noticable damage, but I'll get some Rotella tonight and dump it and replace. I thought Rotella was made specifically for Diesel engines, or is this a formula made for bikes? Regardless- thanks for the input. I'll check adjustment while I'm at it.

The issue with standard auto oils is a lack of adequate amounts of certain additives that a cycle engine needs, namely ZDDP or Zinc and Phosphorus. They protect the cams from damage before the oil starts to flow. That's not a problem for newer auto engines that have roller valvetrains, but it is a problem for cycle engines that don't.

The whole "Friction Modifier" thing that makes wet clutches slip isn't really the problem as it's only used in 30-grade (and lower) oils. 40-grade oils don't have it.

As far as Rotella T6 goes, it is a diesel oil, but has been certified JASO MA for use in wet clutch engines - so it's safe that way plus it has the higher levels of ZDDP that you want with a cycle engine.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

Could you explain this method to me? When you're feeling the pulses, are you feeling to make sure each cylinder IS firing, or do your fingers have an exhaust gas analyzer built into them?
Seriously, though- What do you mean by this... is it just that I'm stressing this waay too much and as long as they are pretty close then that's plenty good?

If you feel the exhaust pulses of each cylinder, you can observe the strength of the pulses, the temperature of the gas, and other things like whether one occasionally misses a pulse. I'm not claiming it's as accurate as using a manometer on the carbs, for example, but you can tell a lot from doing it. If a multicylinder engine is misfiring, the first thing I do is feel the exhaust, and quickly know which cylinder has the problem. Of course this all depends on an exhaust system that keeps the exhausts from individual cylinders reasonably separate. A 2-1 system on a Ninja 250, for example, won't allow this method.

Since you already have an IR thermometer, you can also use that on the head pipes after starting it and letting it idle a couple minutes, to get a good idea which cylinder is doing more work. Idle mixture can change the temperature, but synch will change it a lot more.

Plenty close meaning each cylinder is firing reliably at idle and that's all that really matters in syncing the carbs?

I guess with this system that ties both carbs together, and the idle speed adjustment sets the idle stop on only one carb, that's fairly true, but again, I'm not claiming that feeling the exhaust is as accurate as using a manometer. On the other hand, if the synch is way off, enough to make one cylinder pull harder at riding speed, you'll certainly be able to tell that one cylinder is way different from the other at idle.

As far as my general philosophy about stressing on details, I do prefer riding to worrying about what the best oil is, where to buy ethanol-free gasoline, and whether my carbs are the tiniest bit out of synch.

[sickopsycho]

Good info both of you guys. Thanks for the clarification, Triple Jim. =)

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

As far as my general philosophy about stressing on details, I do prefer riding to worrying about what the best oil is, where to buy ethanol-free gasoline, and whether my carbs are the tiniest bit out of synch.

I guess that's my department then.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by jkv45

I guess that's my department then.

Oh... I really wasn't pointing at anything specific, and I do try to use an oil that's kind to non-roller cams and lifters as you suggested. I'd just rather ride than search the web all afternoon, looking for the best $25/qt synthetic oil. A lot of 2-stroke guys have strong opinions on why high priced synthetics are needed, yet my H2 has been running on dyno oil, and lately on Walmart TC-W3, since I got it in 1978.

[Bk834]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

I have the stock airbox, but a K&N air filter (the one that connects directly to the 2 air inlet holes on the airbox, replacing the element inside). It would appear to have a higher airflow than a stock filter setup. I also have a straightpipe style exhaust. Not sure which jets I have, that's the problem. I couldn't find markings on them when I removed them to clean. They were a little munged up from someone using the wrong screwdriver (NOT ME!!!). When you say the second clip posistion, do you mean the second from the top? I have it set currently on the 3rd down from the top and it pulls strong, but I can easily move them and run it a little leaner to see what it does. I know I have to play with it, but I'd much rather run a richer mixture and suffer poor gas milage than run it lean and risk damage to the motor.

Yes, it counts from the top. Since you are raising the needles. And yes it's better to be slightly rich than risk damaging your motor.

[Triple Jim]

Lean at wide open throttle can cause problems, but if lean in the midrange were dangerous, all stock 250 would suffer damage. Mine was so lean it surged pretty badly until I shimmed the needles a little, but it had run about 14,000 at the stock lean setting when I got it. Needle position does not have an effect on wide open throttle mixture, that's where the main jets determine mixture.

[sickopsycho]

What are the stock jets in the 2007 Ninja 250? I got my needle clips in today and pulled the carb back out to get the clips put in properly... Luckily I have done it so many times it was about an hour from start to finish. Thats with the bike fully dressed to the bike again fully dressed, lol. While I had the carbs off I took a high res picture of both the jets. I couldn't read the main jet size on either one because some fool munged up the slot on the top trying to get it out (previous owner). I can read an 8 for sure, and what looked like a 0 before it #108? but it might have just as easily been a #98. The pilot jet was a #38, I could read the size on both of those. The bike seems to be running well, but I'm hoping that at least the main has been upgraded to a richer than stock jet, because of my free flow exhaust and K&N air filter. I have both of my needles on the 3rd clip down from the top. Idle mixture screws are turned in, then backed out 2.5 turns. When I got the bike put back together- I primed the bowls using the vacuum port on the petcock, once I saw fuel stop moving (clear inline filter), I cranked the bike with full choke. It fired right up in less than 1 second of cranking- I immediately removed the choke and it settled down to a proper idle and ran smooth. Once warmed up I blipped the throttle and it rose without hesitation, then fell right back down to where it should be- so I think idle mixture is good. Anyway- stock jets? I think this is the dynajet kit, as they recommend the stage 1-3 be replaced with a #98 main and the needle clip at the position I have ti set to with the idle mixture where I set it. Figure this is a good starting point and I can work from here to fine tune.

[Triple Jim]

Idle mixture is normally set with a hot engine, and adjusted for maximum RPM. Erring slightly on the rich side is better than on the lean side.

[Mohawk]

The DJ kit should have inckuded DJ main jets to match theirneedle profile.

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by Mohawk

The DJ kit should have inckuded DJ main jets to match theirneedle profile.

Right, but I'm just trying to figure out what I have in the bike. I didn't Install the DJ kit, the bike came like this. That's why I'm trying to figure out what the stock jets are

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

Right, but I'm just trying to figure out what I have in the bike. I didn't Install the DJ kit, the bike came like this. That's why I'm trying to figure out what the stock jets are

Copied from
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Can_I_i...ole_jet_kit%3F

".......the pilot jet is part number Keihin N424-25........ Stock on the F and J bikes is 38..........

The main jet is Keihin 99101-393........... The stock mains you have should be 105."

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Copied from
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Can_I_i...ole_jet_kit%3F

".......the pilot jet is part number Keihin N424-25........ Stock on the F and J bikes is 38..........

The main jet is Keihin 99101-393........... The stock mains you have should be 105."

Well shoot. Now I wonder if I have a 98 like the dynajet kit suggests or a 108. The dynajet 98 is a 100 Keihin. The 108 is a 112.5 Keihin. Hmm... Guess I need to get some jets so I know for sure. Thanks for the info.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by sickopsycho

Well shoot. Now I wonder if I have a 98 like the dynajet kit suggests or a 108. The dynajet 98 is a 100 Keihin. The 108 is a 112.5 Keihin. Hmm... Guess I need to get some jets so I know for sure. Thanks for the info.

That's why I love Dynajet...

[sickopsycho]

Sorry to bump this thread guys, but I have a quick question about jets. So according to the above link (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Can_I_i...ole_jet_kit%3F) the stock main jet size is a 105. I have the dynajet kit in my bike- it was installed by the previous owner. The pilot jet is a #38, which is stock, but it *looks* like the main has been changed to (assumably dynajet) either a 108 or a 98. That would convert to a 112.5 or a 100, respectively, in Keihin sizing. My question is this... I have a K&N air filter with the stock airbox and a set of (basically) straight pipes. Wouldn't a Keihin size 100 be waaaay too small of a main jet for this setup? As in It would run like crap and not really be ridable? Then, I'm wondering if its the larger of the two then maybe that's quite a bit too much main. I can't read the number on the main- the last guy messed up the top with a screwdriver (both mains). I can read the 8 and what looks like a 0 in front of it, but it could just as easily be a 9, as all I can see is the curved right side of the number.
As far as drivability... WOT runs great. I would rather it run a little rich than too lean, but I don't want to be wasting gas either. I'm thinking I need to tweak the mid-range a bit by adjusting the needle, but I'm not sure which way to go. I'll probably start by going richer, just to err on the side of caution and see if performance changes for the good or bad. I'm about to pull the carbs off again right now to do that then I'm gonna take her for a spin. It's a beautiful day here- I'm looking forward to it. =)
Thank for the help-

[Triple Jim]

Being a little rich on the main won't change gas mileage much, unless you run with the throttle between 3/4 and wide open most of the time. My experience is that the needle position is what has the most effect on mileage.

[sickopsycho]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Being a little rich on the main won't change gas mileage much, unless you run with the throttle between 3/4 and wide open most of the time. My experience is that the needle position is what has the most effect on mileage.

Well, I pulled the carbs out and raised the needles 1 position. The bike now runs quite a bit better in the midrange... Just really smooth. Unfortunately now my butter smooth idle has a bit of a surge to it. Not much, I can hear it more than see it in the tachometer... Is that an indication of imbalance or what? I leaned the air/fuel mixture screws by 1/4 turn (all the way in, then out 2 1/4 turns), but they are both in the same position... Not sure what would have caused this.

[Triple Jim]

My procedure for setting idle mixture is to adjust for maximum RPM, erring very slightly on the rich side. Others may prefer different methods. The needle position should have close to zero effect on the idle mixture.