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Old August 5th, 2017, 12:38 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Wow. Just wow! I am so grateful to you Ducatiman! And all of you that directed me to that decision. They look great! No way I could have done that myself with practically no carb experience. So awesome. Cannot wait to get them back in the bike!
There you are! I'm excited for you! Looking forward to your startup!

Another PM coming your way, I thought of a something preventative going forward.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 08:14 AM   #42
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Re-Installing The Carbs....

Alright! So I have recieved my freshly cleaned xarbs from Ducatiman, looking to put them back in today!

Now, my question is...is it best to hook up the throttle and choke cables BEFORE or AFTER I get them back on the engine/airbox boots?

Also, I will be doing the spark plugs before I put the tank back on...I have read to put a small bit of oil down in there before startup. True? How much? Specific kind?

Thanks everyone! Startup is coming !(hopefully)
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Old August 11th, 2017, 09:12 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Alright! So I have recieved my freshly cleaned xarbs from Ducatiman, looking to put them back in today!

Now, my question is...is it best to hook up the throttle and choke cables BEFORE or AFTER I get them back on the engine/airbox boots?

Also, I will be doing the spark plugs before I put the tank back on...I have read to put a small bit of oil down in there before startup. True? How much? Specific kind?

Thanks everyone! Startup is coming !(hopefully)
I would install the choke cable before mounting the carbs. The throttle doesn't matter. Oil down the spark plug hole? Wouldn't hurt anything but probably not necessary unless your bike has been sitting a long time. What oil? What you installed for engine oil. I put a small amount of anti seize compound on my plug threads but be careful tightening your spark plugs. Just "snug" will do it. Anti seize makes it easy to over tighten your plugs.

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Old August 11th, 2017, 11:27 AM   #44
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Well, the bike has sat for 2 years indoors. It fired right up a few weeks ago and then the carb issue prevented it from starting again and running. So is it NECESSARY to put oil down there?

The oil i bought is Rotella T6.

So choke cable..then mount carbs...do throttle cables...attach hoses and tank and fire up?

Thank you!
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Old August 11th, 2017, 12:14 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Well, the bike has sat for 2 years indoors. It fired right up a few weeks ago and then the carb issue prevented it from starting again and running. So is it NECESSARY to put oil down there?

The oil i bought is Rotella T6.

So choke cable..then mount carbs...do throttle cables...attach hoses and tank and fire up?

Thank you!
I would say it is not necessary.

You are fine.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 12:36 PM   #46
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Use full choke...the bowls must fill with fuel..as carbs are empty....it might take a few cranking cycles to start...crank for 5 second bursts...allowing 10 seconds between (turn the key off to preserve battery) ...make sure the oil light goes out (indicating adequate oil pressure is present) and it warms some before revving the snot out of it. Lower the choke if it revs higher and higher...you will need to set the idle too (when warm)

**Must*** assure the oil light goes out!
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Old August 11th, 2017, 01:43 PM   #47
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**Must*** assure the oil light goes out!
YEAH!!! I would even disconnect ignition-ECU first and crank engine over without running it to verify oil-pressure light goes out. Then re-connect ignition-ECU.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 07:17 PM   #48
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Having trouble getting the carbs back in. Should I connect them to thr engine first of the airbox?
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Old August 11th, 2017, 07:33 PM   #49
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Having trouble getting the carbs back in. Should I connect them to thr engine first of the airbox?
Engine.

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Old August 11th, 2017, 07:33 PM   #50
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The only way I was able to do mine was to do the airbox/battery box separation mod first. All previous attempts that seemed to work failed within a day or so.

Last futzed with by Triple Jim; August 12th, 2017 at 07:46 AM.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 07:38 PM   #51
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The only way I was able to do mine was to do the airbox/battery box separation mod first. All previous attempts that seemed to work failed without a day or so.
Separating the battery box from the airbox is not necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD5br8HCfn0

What I would do the next time (I hope there won't be one), would be to elongate the bolt holes under the battery to make the installation of the airbox rubber boots to carburetor intake bell easier.

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Old August 12th, 2017, 07:44 AM   #52
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Separating the battery box from the airbox is not necessary.
No, but it makes things go a lot easier and has no disadvantage.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 08:02 AM   #53
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We are talking about getting the carbs seated back into the boots, correct? All i had to do to get them out was loosen the few bolts and pull back the airbox to get them free and out. Getting them back in has proven to be a PITA.

I have them in...i think. After a couple hours i managed to get them seated in the boots and tightened the clamps. I feel like they could be seated further into the engine boots but they are snug in there however....thoughts?
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Old August 12th, 2017, 08:07 AM   #54
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Here are a couple pics that show where i feel they could be in the boot more...but not quite sure.
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File Type: jpg 20170811_235351.jpg (111.8 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20170811_235328.jpg (102.6 KB, 11 views)
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Old August 12th, 2017, 08:08 AM   #55
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Sorry, I am unsure why the pictures are rotated upside down
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Old August 12th, 2017, 08:31 AM   #56
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Yes, I couldn't get my carbs to seat fully in the boots and airbox rubber at the same time. I assume the rubber shrank. The airbox-battery box separation fixes that. Slotting the mounting holes in the assembly could fix that, but now I don't have to mess with the rear fender to get the carbs out. I just take out the battery and its now separate box, and the airbox will go back out of the way.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 08:38 AM   #57
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You has to mess with the rear fender to get the carbs out? I did not have to do that. Carbs came out easily. I dont think i need the airbox to move back any further, rather more forward to get the carbs deeper in the engime boots. They seem to be in there quite solid...just seems like they can go further. This is also a 2008 model if that helps.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 09:55 AM   #58
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I think I've fallen victim to pregen/newgen confusion, sorry. I have a pregen, and yes, the standard procedure involves the rear fender.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 12:14 PM   #59
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Quite alright. I appreciate the input!

I have the carbs seated in all the boots...just feel they nees to go in deeper on the engine side. Im wondering if bolting the airbox back in place will hold them in place far enough to clamp the engine side.

As of now they are seated snug in there. Shoukd I leave them or try and get them deeper in?
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Old August 12th, 2017, 01:20 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Quite alright. I appreciate the input!

I have the carbs seated in all the boots...just feel they nees to go in deeper on the engine side. Im wondering if bolting the airbox back in place will hold them in place far enough to clamp the engine side.

As of now they are seated snug in there. Shoukd I leave them or try and get them deeper in?
It looks like they need to go in farther, but I don't have one here to compare.

Look for photos on the Internet or elsewhere to confirm. I wouldn't put things back together until you know for sure they are fully seated.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 01:52 PM   #61
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judging by the 2 photos mako posted at 11:07AM...the carbs are NOT seated correctly.

Then Mako posts they ARE seated at 3:07PM. Maybe provide another pic or 2?
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Old August 12th, 2017, 03:01 PM   #62
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Ducatiman, other than needing to go further in the engine boots...is there something else you see thats incorrect?

Ive been at work so i havent been able to do more.

When i said they were seated at 3:07 i meant that they were in the boots but was unsure if they needed to go even further in. I apologize for the confusion. I have them seated in the airbox boots fine, just trying to get them all the way in the engine boots is difficult. Will try and fiddle them in in a couple hours when i get home from work
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Old August 12th, 2017, 03:22 PM   #63
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I find smearing little oil on inside of boots really helps gets carbs fully seated.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 03:24 PM   #64
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can't really discern anything other than carbs not quite seated.

In future, a dab of grease, silicone paste or even vasoline on fingers, wiping the inside circumference of the intake rubber to ease install. You will feel a sort of "click" when they properly seat.

Aggressively forcing the carb throat into dry rubber *could* actually tear the manifold. You may opt to temporarily pull them out and get some lube in there.
It'll go easier on both you and the manifold.

Also assure the throttle snaps back on its own before starting (and especially riding).
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Old August 12th, 2017, 03:28 PM   #65
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Here are a couple pics that show where i feel they could be in the boot more...but not quite sure.
I took a look at my 2007. Your carbs don't appear to be seated. There can't be THAT much difference in the model years. I remember when I reinstalled my carbs I put a very light film of lithium grease around the venturi outlets on the carbs. Maybe try something like that?

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Old August 12th, 2017, 03:47 PM   #66
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Can I use a finger swab of engine oil for lube? I have Rotella T6....
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Old August 12th, 2017, 04:07 PM   #67
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Nevrmind....I found some Vaseline!
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Old August 12th, 2017, 04:10 PM   #68
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either would work simply to lube the rubber
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Old August 12th, 2017, 04:16 PM   #69
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So, aftee I lube and they "click" will they pop out before I clamp them or will they stay in place mostly?

Thank you all SO MUCH. You have no idea (or maybe you do) how much help you all have been. For a noob, this has been very frustrating and confusing! I see the light at the ens of the tunnel though!
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Old August 12th, 2017, 04:21 PM   #70
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no, they will remain when seated

don't know whether you noticed, but the rubber manifold has a small , raised ridge...the carb runner has an indentation...hence the "click" when properly seated....I'm sure you'll actually feel it seat.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 04:28 PM   #71
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Unrelated question:

Is it safe to lube the throttle cables from the "bottom" while they are still connected to the handlebar assembly? I figure i should lube them before i hook them back up.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 04:44 PM   #72
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Unrelated question:

Is it safe to lube the throttle cables from the "bottom" while they are still connected to the handlebar assembly? I figure i should lube them before i hook them back up.
I read somewhere, maybe here, that that's the best way to lube them. Undo the cables at the twist grip and you'll want to shoot yourself in the head tying to put the assembly back together. I shot lithium grease up my cables and the first time I twisted the grip the drag on the cables was nasty. They got normal very quickly though. I used one of those cable oilers with the thumb screw on it. Pick your own poison for cable lube (I don't advise WD40).

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Old August 12th, 2017, 07:22 PM   #73
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Okay....so i have them seated in the engine boots. They "clicked" in after much struggle. Now, are they supposed to "click" on the airbox side? I have them in the boots...i feel if they go over that metal tab then that could tear the boot?
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Old August 12th, 2017, 09:29 PM   #74
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No click on airbox side because there's no groove in carbs-inlets and no moulded ridge on airbox.
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Old August 12th, 2017, 09:32 PM   #75
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Unrelated question:

Is it safe to lube the throttle cables from the "bottom" while they are still connected to the handlebar assembly? I figure i should lube them before i hook them back up.
I find lubing then when disconnected is easiest. I hold them aimed up so they are higher than hand-grip. Then drip oil in from squeeze-bottle. And operate throttle through full-range. Yes, I can hold cables and oil-bottle and squeeze it all at same time with one hand. You may need to have an assistant operate throttle. You can actually put in quite a lot of oil to keep cables lubed.

Yeah, bicycle shops have those contraptions that attach to end of cables and let you connect straw from spray-can of lube. But that's almost like cheating, where's challenge in that!?@
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Old August 12th, 2017, 09:42 PM   #76
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SHE LIVES!!!!!!

Got the cleaned carbs installed. Installed what was necessary for startup...added fresh fuel and some Sta-Bil 360.

Primed her..cranked her a few times at the recommended intervals....no luck. THEN I realized in all of my excitement to try and start her, I forgot to put the choke on! Bahaha! Full choke...fired right up!!!!!!

Now, my idle is at 3k...i am assuming that is because I need to adjust it or I need to adjust the throttle cables. Either way....SHE LIVES!! THANK YOU SO MUCH TO EVERYONE THAT HAS BEEN A PART OF THIS JOURNEY!

Ducatiman- you are the absolute real deal sir! Thank you for bringing my bike back from the dead!

Now I just have to change the oil, coolamt and adjust that idle issue and I will be on the road!
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Old August 12th, 2017, 10:04 PM   #77
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High idle at 3k RPM.....probably because of the choke of course..Im dumb.

Going to change the oil before I let it run longer and get warm to adjust the idle etc.

Going to bed though, she runs great other than the high idle. So happy. Will update after final restoration maintenance.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 05:28 AM   #78
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as she warms, slowly back off the choke....set the idle warm, when choke is FULLY OFF.

Big black, knurled knob, counterclockwise lowers idle (closes throttle plates)

After or during an actual ride you may want/need to re adjust.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 05:50 AM   #79
jkv45
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MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
You will find it doesn't always need full choke to start. Warm weather, or recent running, might require only 1/2 or less to start.

Once it starts, back the choke off to keep the idle at 2000 to 2500 for a bit, then turn it off as soon as possible. It should only require a minute or 2 in normal conditions.

Start it up, get your gear on, and make sure it will idle without choke before taking off. It's best not to have choke on once you take off.

Never let it idle to warm up. Ride normally to warm it up, staying under 5000 or so until the gauge is in the normal range.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 02:56 PM   #80
ducatiman
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well, Mako...wha happened? You out ridin'?
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