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Old June 21st, 2009, 01:49 AM   #1
sombo
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blown headlight fuse

Ok, long story short. A few days ago my headlight was out so I replaced the bulb only to find out it was the fuse. Replaced it and didn't think much of it since everything seemed to work just fine, high beam included. Then tonight I'm going down Interstate 4 in Orlando to meet up with some friends downtown when the headlight goes out as soon as I hit the high beam switch. I confirm it blew the fuse. Replace it again in a parking lot and check the high beam again just to be sure. Again it blows the fuse instantly. I replace it yet again and don't touch the high beam and make it home just fine.

I looked at some of the wiring diagrams linked by the FAQ Alex was kind enough to link for us and find it somewhat less then inspiring. I see that it's simple and that only a couple of things could short. I'm thinking to try the handlebar switch first then check the relay. I'm just not sure I have the tools do so unfortunately and MIGHT be forced to go to a shop (would rather not but if I have to...).

Any suggestions on what might be a quick easy fix, or what tools I might need (I think my multimeter still works) would be helpful.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 02:14 AM   #2
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did you replace it with a stock bulb and not an upgraded wattage one?

also, check the headlight socket for corrosion.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 09:34 AM   #3
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No corrosion and it was a standard 9003/h4 bulb. As I said, everything worked fine at first but then last night the high beam decides to blow the fuse twice.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 09:48 AM   #4
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My guess is the switch. The bulb was replaced, and it was not the problem. We can rule that out. Your fuse keeps blowing, yet it is designed to handle the amperage of the bulb, something is dragging it down. So it is something else in the circuit. A corrosion problem would most likely cause it to work here and there...we get corrosion or oxidation on a connector, and it drops voltage across the union. Most likely not the cause.

I'd say the switch. Relay's tend to either work or not work. I have never found one to short in all my years working on electronic circuits. I've wired up nitrous systems and they either work or they don't. Same goes for the multi-million dollar equipment we have here at work.

Hit up the switch. Another possibility is the wiring from the switch to the light. Your bike is a '94, so the cable could have rubbed itself a contact patch that only hits when you apply power to the high beam.

Inspect the wiring. If there is nothing visible, I'd take the switch apart, run a voltmeter on it (set to ohms) and check for a short (red to the cable, and black to the bike chassis). If you have it, then replace the wiring, if not replace the switch.

It could also be shorting to another wire, so you may read an open and still have a short. So we can't rule that out.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 01:00 PM   #5
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Thanks apex, that was already the plan. Just an FYI, I am an electronic technician by trade so I understand how to troubleshoot. I was just wondering if anyone had come across this before and found a simple fix.

As for relays never causing shorts. Yes they can. Remember all it really is, is an electronically actuated manual switch. Not only can the leads short just as easily as the headlight switch but it's also possible for power going to the electromagnet to short to one of the leads causing an overpower. Not saying it's likely to happen but it can. I've seen relays in automotive electronics go bad and cause problems. I don't think it's the relay but if it's not the switch the relay is the only other place to look according to the schematics I've found.

I don't think the wiring could be a problem. It may be a '95 but it only has 6000miles on it and one of the previous owners had practically rebuilt the bike from the ground up. He also did all the mods to the bike. All of the wires I've seen so far in taking the bike apart look practically brand new. However, just to be safe I plan on checking them as well.

Oh, and a voltmeter only checks voltage. You mean a multimeter set to ohms to check for resistance.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 01:20 PM   #6
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Thanks apex, that was already the plan. Just an FYI, I am an electronic technician by trade so I understand how to troubleshoot. I was just wondering if anyone had come across this before and found a simple fix.

As for relays never causing shorts. Yes they can. Remember all it really is, is an electronically actuated manual switch. Not only can the leads short just as easily as the headlight switch but it's also possible for power going to the electromagnet to short to one of the leads causing an overpower. Not saying it's likely to happen but it can. I've seen relays in automotive electronics go bad and cause problems. I don't think it's the relay but if it's not the switch the relay is the only other place to look according to the schematics I've found.

I don't think the wiring could be a problem. It may be a '95 but it only has 6000miles on it and one of the previous owners had practically rebuilt the bike from the ground up. He also did all the mods to the bike. All of the wires I've seen so far in taking the bike apart look practically brand new. However, just to be safe I plan on checking them as well.

Oh, and a voltmeter only checks voltage. You mean a multimeter set to ohms to check for resistance.
Yeah a multimeter, or as we just say around here a DVM. Most people don't know what that is.

My bad about acting like grade school to ya. You mentioned not having the tools, so I kind of just assumed...ya know. Sorry about that.

As far as shorting goes, not saying it couldn't happen, but normally the contacts blow first (from what I have experienced), or the thing just plain doesn't work. Maybe we use some funky relays up here (at lot of stuff here was new back in the mid-90's or older, so who knows!). I was just speaking from my experience with them.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 03:23 PM   #7
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Well on my 05 grand am I had the turn signal relay go bad. One day the relay just started firing in turbo making the ticking sound at like 3x speed. It didn't make the lights go but that ticking sound going on nonstop will drive you nuts. As soon as you would hit the 4-ways or a turn signal it would act normal and then go back to tickatickatickatickatickaticka non-stop.

I have some tools but not alot and not knowing all the tools I might need to tear things apart on the bike means I MIGHT not have all the tools I need.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 06:39 PM   #8
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Ok, well got the switch apart and found it had more leads then the schematic called for. There were 2 red/yellow instead of just one and there was also a blue/brown that's not on the schematic. All the leads look brand as if they've never been touched from the factory. The only problem is that all them show continuity to one another no matter what position the switch is in. I'm not sure where the relay is so I wasn't able to check that.

Unfortunately if it really is the switch it would require replacing the entire left switch cluster.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 09:14 PM   #9
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For some reason, I would be inclined to check the bulb ratings. You sure the hi/low wattage is the exact same as the factory?

You could also pull the bulb and test the hi/lo switch. If the fuse pops without the bulb in, then maybe an issue with switching. If not, maybe it is as simple as the bulb.
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Old June 21st, 2009, 09:49 PM   #10
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It is a 9003/h4 bulb, they are all built to a STRICT specification standard. There is NO difference in wattage between 9003/h4 bulbs due to these strict GOVERNMENT standards they legally have to follow. The only way for the wattage to be different is if it was something other then a 9003/h4 bulb.

Also, don't forget that the original bulb blew the fuse in the first place. I only changed it because I thought the bulb had blown, which it hadn't.

As for testing it without the bulb. The bulb completes the circuit and allows the power to flow. In the schematic the only path for power without the bulb is through the high beam indicator bulb in the dash.

There is something else. In the schematic is shows one red/yellow (mine has 2), one red/black, and one blue/yellow going to the high beam switch. Mine also has a blue/brown wire going to it that's not on the schematic at all. That kind of confuses me since everything looks stock and no known modifications have been done to the headlights.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 05:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sombo View Post
The only problem is that all them show continuity to one another no matter what position the switch is in. I'm not sure where the relay is so I wasn't able to check that.
So what did the high beam wire read to ground(at bulb socket)? Does it still blow the fuse with no bulb in socket(on H/B)?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 09:11 AM   #12
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Is this the schematic you have?
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Headlig...cuit_schematic

This could help too...
http://faq.ninja250.org/images/f/f4/..._Schematic.pdf

Yeah it is pretty simple. Think it could be the diode? Now I think about it, I doubt it.

Could it be a bad socket? Maybe cracked causing the high to short to ground when you turn it on? You'd only see that when you turned on the high beam too.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 11:39 AM   #13
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Yah, I've been using the second one, the PDF schematic. Nah, the housing looked sound from what I could tell when I replaced the bulb, but can't hurt to check again. On a side note the front fairing is a pain to get on and off, just an FYI.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:08 PM   #14
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Yah, I've been using the second one, the PDF schematic. Nah, the housing looked sound from what I could tell when I replaced the bulb, but can't hurt to check again. On a side note the front fairing is a pain to get on and off, just an FYI.
I can only imagine!
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Old July 4th, 2009, 10:34 AM   #15
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As an electronics technician, you must value the right tool for the job. May I suggest purchasing an inexpensive automotive test light? They look like a screwdriver with a light bulb in the handle and cost about $5. They are really great for tracking down dead shorts and blown fuses.

Anyhow, your problem is somewhere between the headlight and the left control pod. I would start by looking where the passes by the steering head, and make it doesn't get pinched as the bars are turned.

Otherwise, find +12V somewhere, hook your test light to that, and start tapping back through from the highbeam bulb socket contact. I'll bet the contact is grounded and will light the test light right up. So find where it's NOT grounded (probably in the control pod) and work forward from there. Divide your work in half, keep selecting the half that's erroneously grounded and go from there. You'll find the short pretty quick.

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Old July 4th, 2009, 11:00 PM   #16
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Thanks, I'll have to go look for one. I haven't toyed with it lately, but I was thinking of unplugging the headlight and hitting the high beam switch to see if it still blows the fuse. I'm thinking it's possible that there might be a short in the dash indicator. It might be a long shot but it's an easy test. Either that or unplug the dash and hit the high beam. If it doesn't blow then I know where the short is, and if it does, then I have eliminated the dash from the list.
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