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Old August 26th, 2013, 12:58 PM   #1
focus101
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Exclamation fp jet kit installed BUT!!

whats up guys as yall know i took my carb out to clean it (wasnt even that bad) and installed K&N pod and my fp jet kit (108main 40 pilot clip down one on the needle) and i went to start her up she started right up i had full choke on, and went to take it for a quick ride and i was really boggie, and when i hit WOT i didnt really accelerate, im going to assume that it could be the diaphrams when i put them back in there where a lil out of round and i dont think i was seating then correctly could that be the issue??

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Old August 26th, 2013, 12:59 PM   #2
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and BTW i didnt touch the float height at all..
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Old August 26th, 2013, 02:23 PM   #3
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It could be the issue.

Or it could just be the jetting is way off.

Pay close attention to how it runs on startup and how it runs after it warms up. Remember that if it runs smooth on a cold engine but starts to bog down after being warmed up then you are running too rich.

If the rpms 'hang' that is a tell-tale sign of running lean. Either of those things ring a bell?
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Old August 26th, 2013, 02:40 PM   #4
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I think the 108s are too small
. Are you running ethanol free? What's your elevation and common riding temp? And the diaphragms being put in wrong is possible. What needle position?
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Old August 26th, 2013, 02:40 PM   #5
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Nvm I found it in the OP
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Old August 26th, 2013, 02:57 PM   #6
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Really boggie isn't helpful.

how was it boggie? what throttle opening? roll ons? top end? at 3k right as you're starting to move?

Top end pull, better when warm? or lethargic all the time?
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Old August 27th, 2013, 12:02 AM   #7
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Really boggie isn't helpful.

how was it boggie? what throttle opening? roll ons? top end? at 3k right as you're starting to move?

Top end pull, better when warm? or lethargic all the time?
It was boggie at mid and top end, I think without the choke too, but it really felt more like when u start running out of fuel is the best way to describe it without, Im leaning towards the diaphragm as the issue, before I put the filter on I did check to see if they slide properly and it seemed fine, but then I read the article about the diaphragm begin seated right and realized that they just dont go back in with ez..
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Old August 27th, 2013, 12:07 AM   #8
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I think the 108s are too small
. Are you running ethanol free? What's your elevation and common riding temp? And the diaphragms being put in wrong is possible. What needle position?
Elevation is between 10-30ft (depending on where I ride) needle is at 2 slots from the top..
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Old August 27th, 2013, 05:20 AM   #9
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Move it up to 110 for the mains.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 06:13 AM   #10
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Running out of gas is exactly how it will feel when it is out of tune (rich or lean).

Pay close attention to how it runs cold and then after it is hot. There will be a noticeable difference. Move up to the 110s and see if it gains or loses power in mid/upper band.

Also, one way to check if it's running to lean is to get some speed and just snap the throttle closed. If it pops loudly like a pistol then you're running too lean lol.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 07:52 AM   #11
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Okay, sounds more like you're describing a lean surge at the top end and wot, not a rich bog. Figure out the mains first. Test a 110. Have you tested the pods with the stock 105's to see how that feels as well? A lean surge feels nothing like a rich bog once you know the difference.

After we get the mains, then figure out the needle height. For now, just worry about wot performance at the high rpm's. Prepare to do lots of 3rd fear pulls and take some notes.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 08:23 AM   #12
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Also testing your top speed, although more illegal and dangerous is a great way to pick your main jets. When I did mine I could go 105mph w/ the right one but top out at 80mph with all else.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 08:39 AM   #13
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That's only a semi-valid test. There's too many variables on a street and you can't make enough top speed passes to really narrow it down and eliminate those variables. Wind, traffic, hills, not enough trials, tucking differently, etc etc. If you're on a dyno or track, you can do tons of WOT passes on the same section of track repeatedly and rule out any outside variables.

I'm also not one to suggest repeatedly going up to 100 mph on public streets just to test your fueling. Not worth the risk. A 3rd gear pull tops out around 70 and will definitely let you feel if it's pulling the whole way or not.

FWIW, follow these instructions from Factory Pro. They'll get you to a well tuned bike.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:16 AM   #14
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Okay, sounds more like you're describing a lean surge at the top end and wot, not a rich bog. Figure out the mains first. Test a 110. Have you tested the pods with the stock 105's to see how that feels as well? A lean surge feels nothing like a rich bog once you know the difference.

After we get the mains, then figure out the needle height. For now, just worry about wot performance at the high rpm's. Prepare to do lots of 3rd fear pulls and take some notes.
i went straight to the 108 main with the pod and needle 2 slots from the top, i can test the 110 when i get the bike running, unfortunately i had a double whammy yesterday with the bike i went to start her up after my quick run the start button broke off(the case where the kill and start button was cracked already) and i gotta replace the startor cover gasket (had a small oil leak didn't know where it was until yesterday) due to it breaking and leaking oil smh. but next week will be running again.

thanks for the help guys
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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Also testing your top speed, although more illegal and dangerous is a great way to pick your main jets. When I did mine I could go 105mph w/ the right one but top out at 80mph with all else.
i wouldn't do a test goin that fast, especially around where i live at.. lol
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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:29 AM   #16
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Quote:
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That's only a semi-valid test. There's too many variables on a street and you can't make enough top speed passes to really narrow it down and eliminate those variables. Wind, traffic, hills, not enough trials, tucking differently, etc etc. If you're on a dyno or track, you can do tons of WOT passes on the same section of track repeatedly and rule out any outside variables.

I'm also not one to suggest repeatedly going up to 100 mph on public streets just to test your fueling. Not worth the risk. A 3rd gear pull tops out around 70 and will definitely let you feel if it's pulling the whole way or not.

FWIW, follow these instructions from Factory Pro. They'll get you to a well tuned bike.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html
i have that tuning guide that came with the jet kit im following what it says, but one ? i have about the diaphragms, how would u know that they are damaged mines r not ripped but the are a lil deformed looking?? dont mean to repeat myself but i just cant get the thought out of my head that those might be an issue, and what is that little hole on the bottom end of the diaphragm next to where the needle goes??

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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:32 AM   #17
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Running out of gas is exactly how it will feel when it is out of tune (rich or lean).

Pay close attention to how it runs cold and then after it is hot. There will be a noticeable difference. Move up to the 110s and see if it gains or loses power in mid/upper band.

Also, one way to check if it's running to lean is to get some speed and just snap the throttle closed. If it pops loudly like a pistol then you're running too lean lol.
there is some very light small pops when i was idling with the choke on and when i was accelerating..
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:39 AM   #18
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there is some very light small pops when i was idling with the choke on and when i was accelerating..
Yeah they're not all loud small pops are indicative of a lean condition too just not as severe as if they were bangin like a pistol.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 12:04 PM   #19
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To check if your diaphragms are okay:

Take the carbs off. Take compressed air and blow it through the carbs from abou 6" back. Do the diaphragms lift?

Next take your hand and lift the diaphragm and let it drop. Does it snap back or does it take about 1 second to drop while letting out a wooooosh sound like its supposed to?
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Old August 27th, 2013, 05:30 PM   #20
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To check if your diaphragms are okay:

Take the carbs off. Take compressed air and blow it through the carbs from abou 6" back. Do the diaphragms lift?

Next take your hand and lift the diaphragm and let it drop. Does it snap back or does it take about 1 second to drop while letting out a wooooosh sound like its supposed to?
When I checked the diaphragm I lifted it and it did exactly the 1 sec drop with a woooooshin noise.. I dont have access to an air compressor
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Old August 27th, 2013, 06:14 PM   #21
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Then they're fine. Move on to making one jetting change at a time.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 06:21 PM   #22
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Have you checked the level of the fuel inside each bowl?

Many times the handling during cleaning throws those out of spec, which is equivalent to changing jets to an unknown number.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 07:19 PM   #23
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Have you checked the level of the fuel inside each bowl?

Many times the handling during cleaning throws those out of spec, which is equivalent to changing jets to an unknown number.
I haven't touched the floats but maybe I should have checked them they were moving alot, what should I use to measure the level? and the spec is 17mm right??
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Old August 27th, 2013, 07:30 PM   #24
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...........what should I use to measure the level and the spec is 17mm right??
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Old August 27th, 2013, 07:31 PM   #25
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Then they're fine. Move on to making one jetting change at a time.
Ok ,110 main and checking the float level..

thanks
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Old August 27th, 2013, 09:44 PM   #26
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I'm running 112s at the moment with the airbox and it pulls clean at 86 degrees. I'm thinking its a little to rich in that situation. I'm in the process of removing the crankcase breather from the air box in search of a cooler intake charge and see if that changes anything.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 09:45 PM   #27
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So 112s are not out of the question. I'm 1200 ft above sea level to on an 86 degree day with 70% humidity it pulled clean with ethanol free. So I think it may still be lean.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 12:39 PM   #28
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Umm Kevin, what kind of mileage are you getting? I'm about 1000 feet above sea level, full exhaust, pod filter, 110 mains. The 108's pulled really well but didnt respond 100% perfectly. I think you're better off going getting some dyno time because 112's with the air box at 86F outside is ridiculous.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 01:10 PM   #29
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What's your top speed kevin?
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Old August 28th, 2013, 01:20 PM   #30
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No! stop asking people what their top speed is. That's not a proper way to test main jets.

Dyno pulls are really the proper way, be we can settle with 3rd gear pulls. Going 100 on public streets isn't the way to do it. That's stupid and reckless.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 01:55 PM   #31
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No! stop asking people what their top speed is. That's not a proper way to test main jets.

Dyno pulls are really the proper way, be we can settle with 3rd gear pulls. Going 100 on public streets isn't the way to do it. That's stupid and reckless.


Just going with the flow of traffic officer.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 01:59 PM   #32
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Still not the right way of doing it... Jetting is as simple as following the steps to test individual variables. Top speed (in a perfect situation is a good test of top end power) is not the right way to test your main jet on a road.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 03:27 PM   #33
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I have the airbox lid removed and a uni filter with the backfire mesh removed. Also I'm after a cooler charge with removing the crankcase breather. I wish I could use a dyno trust me, its just a cost thing. It pulled much harder this morning when it was 70 so i think it is still slightly rich but I havent done the crankcase breather mod yet. Lots of variables here
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Old August 28th, 2013, 03:28 PM   #34
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Still not the right way of doing it... Jetting is as simple as following the steps to test individual variables. Top speed (in a perfect situation is a good test of top end power) is not the right way to test your main jet on a road.
Idk personally I had a little trouble noticing the differences between jets by doing the 3rd gear runs but I guess I'll have to learn because I'm getting that full muzzy in the mail soon that you paged me in the marketplace thread.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 04:10 PM   #35
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I have the airbox lid removed and a uni filter with the backfire mesh removed. Also I'm after a cooler charge with removing the crankcase breather. I wish I could use a dyno trust me, its just a cost thing. It pulled much harder this morning when it was 70 so i think it is still slightly rich but I havent done the crankcase breather mod yet. Lots of variables here
I bought one of these and attached the hose to it when I put my pod filters on.

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Old August 29th, 2013, 06:09 AM   #36
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No! stop asking people what their top speed is. That's not a proper way to test main jets.

Dyno pulls are really the proper way, be we can settle with 3rd gear pulls. Going 100 on public streets isn't the way to do it. That's stupid and reckless.
Thank you.
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Old August 29th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #37
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Thank you.
No, THANK YOU!
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Old August 29th, 2013, 02:09 PM   #38
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Wat is tool that measuring the level? Can I use a ruler??
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Old August 29th, 2013, 02:21 PM   #39
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sure. Measure from the carb body with the float just barely sitting on the tangs. Just make sure they're as close to each other as possible. I think the tolerance stated in the manual is + or - 2mm?
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Old August 29th, 2013, 03:10 PM   #40
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sure. Measure from the carb body with the float just barely sitting on the tangs. Just make sure they're as close to each other as possible. I think the tolerance stated in the manual is + or - 2mm?
I dont have a manual but my research been show +2..
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