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Old April 5th, 2020, 02:40 PM   #1
ssrsupermoto
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Engine clatter

Do these engines have clatter to them normally. Mines runs amazing and valves were adjusted but still have a little clatter to it. People tell me it’s the Kawasaki clatter but want some other opinions.
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Old April 5th, 2020, 09:42 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrsupermoto View Post
Do these engines have clatter to them normally. Mines runs amazing and valves were adjusted but still have a little clatter to it. People tell me it’s the Kawasaki clatter but want some other opinions.

Mine don’t clatter. Check your chain tensioner.
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Old April 5th, 2020, 11:46 PM   #3
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Clatter

The clutch on these tends to clatter. Can be very loud sometimes.
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Old April 6th, 2020, 01:08 PM   #4
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Check every single nut and bolt on bike with torque-wrench.
  • Engine-mount bolt/nuts tend to loosen over time due to their low-torque (to not break off mounting-ears). Use nylock-nut and blue Loctite on those.
  • Exhaust mount bolts underneath can rattle loose and cause noise.
  • Chain-guard vibrates.
  • Kickstand can be loose. I shim it with thin-washers on pivot bolt, adding thickness until it can pivot smoothly, but has no lateral movement.
  • Heat-shields on exhaust...
  • Depending upon type, muffler-packing. There was one type that used fine-gauge chain instead of stainless-steel wool or fibreglass that made one heck of racket...
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Old April 7th, 2020, 06:16 AM   #5
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Like top-end or valvetrain noise?

Sound like the cam chain slapping around? Cam Chain Tensioner may be bad.

Does it happen at a certain RPM?

Start by isolating the area as much as possible.
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Old April 13th, 2020, 11:12 AM   #6
Naffer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artruck View Post
Mine don’t clatter. Check your chain tensioner.
I recently bought a 2005 with about 8K miles that seemed a little loud to me. I ended up pulling out the tensioner, cleaning it off, regreasing it and reinstalling it and it totally fixed the noise. It was much easier to do than a valve job so I'd suggest trying it first.
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Old April 14th, 2020, 02:09 AM   #7
Mohawk
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The pregen clutch uses plastic thrust bushes, they are supposed to reduce the slap between crankshaft primary gear & clutch gear ring. Unfortunately it’s a sh!t design, so the bushes compress & harden, then the clutch sounds like a wrecked bottom end, loud knocking noise. Best thing to do is replace it with a new gen clutch, which uses springs as buffers, like almost every other clutches on the planet. It makes it so much quieter. If you are really keen the 300 slipper clutch will fit too, but you need the 300 side case as well, due to it being a bit wider than the 250’s. Either of these doesn’t make much difference to the riding experience, except when stopped the engine doesn’t sound like it’s broken. The 300 slipper, is extremely light at the lever & gives you back torque limitation, so stops the rear wheel locking up if you down change to far when braking.
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Old April 18th, 2020, 08:16 AM   #8
ssrsupermoto
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So would I just need the clutch basket from a 08-12 ninja 250 or the entire setup basket, plates, discs, springs etc?
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Old April 18th, 2020, 10:35 AM   #9
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You would need the complete clutch, as no parts are interchangeable other than the clutch shaft splines. So remove right engine cover, remove clutch spring bolts, remove clutch inner plus plates. Then undo clutch basket nut. Remover basket.

You will need a complete 250R (08-12) clutch, including the oil pump drive gear & the clutch actuator push rod, they are slightly different on the newgen. You can use the pregen actuator with a spacer.

Have fun & enjoy the silence.

Last futzed with by Mohawk; April 18th, 2020 at 11:50 PM.
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Old April 18th, 2020, 03:32 PM   #10
ssrsupermoto
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What is the “ You can use the prehensile actuator with a spacer“ what is prehensile actuator and what spacer do I use? I ordered an entire clutch setup from a 2008.
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Old April 18th, 2020, 03:53 PM   #11
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It's the pull-rod that moves pressure-plate and separates the clutch-pack. It's slightly different between generations and easiest to replace it as well. Look up greg737's adventure in swapping clutches between generations. It's possible to use the old one with spacer, but you gotta know what you're doing and know how clutch is operating by feel.
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Old April 18th, 2020, 05:06 PM   #12
ssrsupermoto
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Ok I got the 08 one. Here is everything I got in the picture. I bought EBC increased rate springs for the original 2004 clutch, will these EBC springs work on the 2008 clutch.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 7BAA8AE2-D86E-493D-BC94-7AE5C12F21E8.jpg (93.0 KB, 4 views)
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Old April 18th, 2020, 09:36 PM   #13
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Should be OK. Check their fully-compressed height and verify they don't fully bind when squeezed. If they do, clutch won't release fully.

I'm using Barnett springs from different bike (R6 or R1 I think), that's longer in uncompressed state. But due to lower number of coils, they actually end up at lower height when fully compressed and coil-bound. I prefer this spring on my race bike due to stiffer-rate along with more binary on/off transition. Doesn't require as much lever-travel to disengage clutch, but there's no feathering clutch either. It's either all on or all off.
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Old April 18th, 2020, 11:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrsupermoto View Post
What is the “ You can use the prehensile actuator with a spacer“ what is prehensile actuator and what spacer do I use? I ordered an entire clutch setup from a 2008.
Bloomin auto spell correct, changed pregen to prehensile

The clutch actuator rod off the pregen needs a 1-2mm spacer so that clutch lever pull will disengage the clutch. The parts look the same but newgen one is a little longer.

If you got everything in that picture then you have all you need

Last futzed with by Mohawk; April 19th, 2020 at 07:40 AM.
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