May 9th, 2012, 12:25 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Danny
Location: Garden Grove
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 R1, 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 4
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250 Won't Run for @$%T
Hi there. Got a question for the experts. Wife decided to go out and buy her own bike, without me knowing (I have an R1), and she came home with a 2010 Ninja 250 with 450 miles on it. Yep, 450 miles is correct. She bought it private party and the girl that owned it NEVER rode it. Still was on its original factory oil.
Here is my problem. The bike won't run decent. When I fire it up, it takes full choke to get it to light off and stay running. I have to let it run for about 10 minutes just to get it to the point where I can take the choke off and it idle down low. After that, it is REALLY slow to rev up. Often to get it to run right, I have to have her run it for the first 4-5 miles with the choke on and idling at 3k rpm. After a couple of miles, we can take the choke off and it will be ok. Not good, but ok. Some of the time, we have to adjust the screw to the carb to bring the idle up. Are these things really that cold blooded? My R1, I fire up and could take off immediately if I wanted to. This one you can't. What do you guys suggest? I don't know what the bike is supposed to be like to begin with. I would assume better, but I also know that it is probably not going to rev like my R1, but should be better than what it is. When taking off, you can't do the throttle and clutch together. You have to first set the rpm at about 3500-4k, and slowly let the clutch out. If you try to do them in tandem, the bike boggs the motor down too much and stalls it. It is a pain in the butt. The bike is bone stock. Nothing has been done to it. Unfortunately the bike is out of warranty so taking it back to the dealer will be a last resort. Anyone have any suggestions. It has new fuel, filter, oil, etc... I have chased all of the gremlins I could find, but some are escaping me. I don't think that it is the pilot jet because once it has ran for a while, the bike idles perfectly once it gets to the point that it can. Any suggestions, or does anyone know of someone in So Cal that can help me figure this one out? Specifically in Orange County and/or LA County. Thanks, Danny |
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May 9th, 2012, 12:27 PM | #2 |
Jigglin' your Jiglets
Name: Sean
Location: San Jose, Ca
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Apr '13
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Well don't give it **** then
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If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs |
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May 9th, 2012, 12:28 PM | #3 |
Jigglin' your Jiglets
Name: Sean
Location: San Jose, Ca
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Apr '13
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But, you should clean the carbs. First off though run some seafoam through, people get lucky sometimes
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If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs |
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May 9th, 2012, 12:34 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Danny
Location: Garden Grove
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 R1, 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 4
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May 9th, 2012, 12:34 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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It does sound like the carbs are clogged. This is an extremely common problem on ninja 250's that sit for any length of time. The reasonably high ethanol content we have in much of our gas in California hasn't helped things. Once you get it running correctly, riding it every few weeks will keep it from falling into the same state.
But in the meantime, you need to get it there. Jiggles is right, sometimes people get lucky with fuel additives. It's easy enough to try with no downsides. But the next step is to take the carbs out and clean them well. making sure all jets are clear, and replacing as needed. There is a sticky thread at the top of the tech section that lists all DIY threads ("do it yourself"), and in those are a few links to carb-related threads.
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May 9th, 2012, 12:36 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JJ
Location: Cali
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250 Posts: 127
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These bikes definitely dont like running well when cold. It takes me a few miles just to get the engine warmed up properly. After that, it seems fine.
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May 9th, 2012, 12:37 PM | #7 |
Jigglin' your Jiglets
Name: Sean
Location: San Jose, Ca
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Apr '13
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http://www.seafoamsales.com/
Buy a bottle of this, pour the recommended amount in your gas tank and then pray. Taking the carbs out isn't fun.
__________________________________________________
If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs |
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May 9th, 2012, 12:40 PM | #8 |
Jigglin' your Jiglets
Name: Sean
Location: San Jose, Ca
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Apr '13
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Really? Because mine would be run fine after 30-60 seconds of being on. Do you live in super norcal?
__________________________________________________
If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs |
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May 9th, 2012, 12:50 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Bobby
Location: stafford va
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r Posts: 12
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It is quite possible that the carbs need to be cleaned. As Jiggles mentioned try running some Seafom through it first to see if you get lucky.
With only 450 miles on it, I would guess that it has been sitting alot. The person she bought it from might not have started it often or put any stabil in it. If seafom doesn't do the trick, pull the carbs and take a look at the condition they are in. It can be a PITA on a stock bike. Check the DIY section on here for tips and advice like JIS screw bits. Good luck. |
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May 9th, 2012, 02:34 PM | #10 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Ed
Location: San Diego
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250R (SOLD - 2/16/2013) Posts: 492
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Quote:
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Mods/Add-on list: DanMoto Jisu, Snorkel delete, Shimmed needles, K&N Drop-In filter, T-Rex frame sliders, Shogun swing-arm spools, CBR250 Rear Hugger, Buell XB Pegs. DIY polished rim lips |
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May 9th, 2012, 02:53 PM | #11 | |
Long Time Rider
Name: Blue
Location: Charlotte, NC
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
One thing that was suggested by others to do is add a little Seafoam to the fuel tank. I also recommend Startron Fuel treatment if Seafoam does not do it for you. You may also want to consider shimming the needles to help a little with the low end lack of power and warm up issue. |
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May 9th, 2012, 03:19 PM | #12 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 5
MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14
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unless it is below like 40F out, the bike should start and be happy to ride in about 10-30 seconds, or after a few blips to clear things out and get some oil pumping. if its not, your carbs are either clogged, not tuned correctly, or you need a valve job.
a bike like that with 450 miles sounds like clogged carbs.
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May 9th, 2012, 03:38 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Brian
Location: Detroit, MI
Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Green Posts: A lot.
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If you do end up yanking out the carbs to clean it, consider shimming the needles and removing the snorkel while you're in there. It'll make it much more friendly to ride and it only costs a few cents for the washers. DIY in the sticky section.
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2009 Ninja 250R SE Green Sport Touring Style: ZG ST; Symtec heated grips; RAM GPS w/ mUSB; DIY reshaped seat; DIY Givi E21 Sidecases; 15T sprocket |
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