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Old August 21st, 2017, 06:03 AM   #1
BeeLDub
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No idea what I'm doing... PA

Hey guys!

Got my license and took the safety course here in PA 3 or 4 years ago, and just finally got my first bike.

I was looking to get a 2008 or newer GSX-R600, but after reading how much fun you can have on a 250, and how much easier/safer it is to learn on one, decided to get a Ninja.

Just bought a 2009 Ninja 250R with 9,8XXmiles ($2050, was that a fair price?). Both tires are beginning to show signs of dry rot, need to replace them soon, suggestions would be nice! As well as any maintenance suggested; this will be kept outside year round.

It was lightly laid on the right side once, just scratches that were touched up already. Front turn signals were replaced with nice flush mounts, but the left side isn't working, so any help there is appreciated as well.

Other than that, I've got no clue what I'm doing. I've been riding road bikes (with pedals) for a while, so I'm decently comfortable on the bike already, but my mechanical experience is with Jeeps, not bikes.

Thanks!
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Old August 21st, 2017, 06:19 AM   #2
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Old August 21st, 2017, 07:04 AM   #3
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Old August 21st, 2017, 07:12 AM   #4
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Brandon

Good looking bike.
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Old August 21st, 2017, 07:30 AM   #5
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Welcome!

Good for you for getting off on the right foot with the MSF course, and for thinking rationally about your choice of bike.

Riding tip: The party starts at about 9,000 rpm. Keep it wound up and it's a hoot. The engine can take it, all day long. And except in a straight line, a Ninjette in the hands of a capable rider can be as quick as a Gixxer. Remember... a chimpanzee can twist a throttle. It takes a good rider to be fast in the corners.

Safety tip: ATGATT!!! Read a couple of my blog posts (link under my avatar). A year or two ago I spent five days in the hospital for a simple infection. Nothing but bed rest and IV antibiotics. The bill was about $20,000, and my out-of-pocket was $750. That expensive gear doesn't seem so expensive by comparison, does it?

Maintenance: If you've got mechanical experience, that's great. All the basic wrenching skills translate (use the right tools, don't overtorque things, etc.). The biggest difference is that your Jeep probably isn't carbureted. Other minor differences... chain maintenance, cable lubing, stuff like that.

Get hold of a factory (repeat, factory) maintenance manual and just do what it says. This ain't rocket surgery... problems usually happen due to inexperience and neglect.

As far as what you should do...

Change all the fluids even if the prior owner claims to have done so.

Inspect all rubber parts. The bike is only eight years old so they're probably fine, but assume nothing. If the tires are cracked, the bike probably lived outdoors. The same environmental conditions that affected the tires also affect other rubber bits.

If it's the original battery, it might be due for replacement. If you're in PA you probably won't be riding over the winter... remove the battery and take it indoors, and hook it up to a Battery Tender. What kills batteries is neglect.

Put Sta-Bil in the fuel tank for winter storage. A lot of bikes get sold because they run lousy due to ancient gas that gums up the carbs. If you don't ride much, you might want to just put Sta-Bil in the gas anyway.

Winterizing the bike after the bad weather arrives (i.e. November) sucks. For one thing, it's cold and gray outside. For another, the holidays are approaching and who has time to screw with the bike? That's what kills bikes... people forget and before you know it the thing's been sitting for three or four months with no maintenance.

My own regimen: I winterize my bikes on Halloween... go for one last beautiful ride, and fill up the tank just before I get home. I put Sta-Bil in and change the oil while it's still hot. I give the bike a once-over -- lube the chain, clean it up. Put it up on stands. plug in the Battery Tender and leave it until spring. Starts up right away every time, and it's ready to ride when the salt and sand have washed off the streets.
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Old August 21st, 2017, 07:43 AM   #6
BeeLDub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Welcome!

Good for you for getting off on the right foot with the MSF course, and for thinking rationally about your choice of bike.

Riding tip: The party starts at about 9,000 rpm. Keep it wound up and it's a hoot. The engine can take it, all day long. And except in a straight line, a Ninjette in the hands of a capable rider can be as quick as a Gixxer. Remember... a chimpanzee can twist a throttle. It takes a good rider to be fast in the corners.

Safety tip: ATGATT!!! Read a couple of my blog posts (link under my avatar). A year or two ago I spent five days in the hospital for a simple infection. Nothing but bed rest and IV antibiotics. The bill was about $20,000, and my out-of-pocket was $750. That expensive gear doesn't seem so expensive by comparison, does it?
Thank you! I've got my helmet and gloves. Currently shopping for jacket and boots. ATGATT (which I had to google) is what I've always been told. Dress for the fall, not the weather. I have a couple of big-time bikers in my office, so I've been given lots of advice over the years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Maintenance: If you've got mechanical experience, that's great. All the basic wrenching skills translate (use the right tools, don't overtorque things, etc.). The biggest difference is that your Jeep probably isn't carbureted. Other minor differences... chain maintenance, cable lubing, stuff like that.

Get hold of a factory (repeat, factory) maintenance manual and just do what it says. This ain't rocket surgery... problems usually happen due to inexperience and neglect.

As far as what you should do...

Change all the fluids even if the prior owner claims to have done so.

Inspect all rubber parts. The bike is only eight years old so they're probably fine, but assume nothing. If the tires are cracked, the bike probably lived outdoors. The same environmental conditions that affected the tires also affect other rubber bits.

If it's the original battery, it might be due for replacement. If you're in PA you probably won't be riding over the winter... remove the battery and take it indoors, and hook it up to a Battery Tender. What kills batteries is neglect.

Put Sta-Bil in the fuel tank for winter storage. A lot of bikes get sold because they run lousy due to ancient gas that gums up the carbs. If you don't ride much, you might want to just put Sta-Bil in the gas anyway.

Winterizing the bike after the bad weather arrives (i.e. November) sucks. For one thing, it's cold and gray outside. For another, the holidays are approaching and who has time to screw with the bike? That's what kills bikes... people forget and before you know it the thing's been sitting for three or four months with no maintenance.

My own regimen: I winterize my bikes on Halloween... go for one last beautiful ride, and fill up the tank just before I get home. I put Sta-Bil in and change the oil while it's still hot. I give the bike a once-over -- lube the chain, clean it up. Put it up on stands. plug in the Battery Tender and leave it until spring. Starts up right away every time, and it's ready to ride when the salt and sand have washed off the streets.
I'm about 90% sure the factory owner's/maintenance manual is under the rear seat, as well as a factory tool kit. I'll make sure to read through it a few times. I know one thing that can irritate people on the Jeep forums are questions that are easily answered by that.

Thanks again!
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Old August 21st, 2017, 10:18 AM   #7
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Welcome! It's good that you have experienced riders to help you learn your way. The MSF class is a good start, but a mentor is a really good next step.
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Old August 21st, 2017, 11:07 AM   #8
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Factory toolkit is useless with the exception of the plug wrench. Keep that -- you'll need it.

Owner's manual is not a maintenance manual. You said you have mechanical experience. Do you do your own work on your jeep? Do you own tools? Do you know how to, say, properly torque an oil drain bolt?
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Old August 21st, 2017, 11:33 AM   #9
BeeLDub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Factory toolkit is useless with the exception of the plug wrench. Keep that -- you'll need it.

Owner's manual is not a maintenance manual. You said you have mechanical experience. Do you do your own work on your jeep? Do you own tools? Do you know how to, say, properly torque an oil drain bolt?
Okay, I haven't actually checked out the tools or the manual yet, so not sure which it is. Just picked it up yesterday and didn't bring it to work today.

Yes to all of the above!
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Old August 21st, 2017, 12:07 PM   #10
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The owner's manual is a small booklet (small enough to fit under the seat). It comes with the bike. It does have some stuff like maintenance schedules in it, but that's about it. It's the equivalent of your car's owner's manual. Not terribly useful. When I get a new bike, I flip through it and chuck it in a drawer, never to be consulted again.

The service/maintenance manual is 8.5x11 and maybe 150 pages or something like that. A substantial book. It's something you have to buy separately. It tells you how to actually work on the bike, up to and including a full rebuild. That's the one that gets dog-eared and smudged.

Worth every penny if you do your own work.
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Old August 21st, 2017, 04:15 PM   #11
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hi and welcome!!!

To troubleshoot non-working turn-signal:

1. check fuses. Don't just look at them, measure their resistance electronically. Many times a fuse can look just fine, but won't conduct any electricity. Replace fuse if non-conductive.

2. test bulb first. Measure resistance of filament. Or apply power & ground with jumper or test cables. If bulb-lights up, then.

3. find wire-connector on inside of fairing and make sure it's connected.

4. if wire-connector IS connected, then disconnect it. Test for +12v & ground on harness-side connector.

5. if no power at turn-signal light connector, work you way up harness and make sure wire isn't broken. Then test for +12v coming out of turn-signal switch.

One of these tests will pinpoint problem area. No need to go further upstream than signal switch as the other side is working, so input +12v source to switch is OK.
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Old August 22nd, 2017, 04:47 AM   #12
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i have a used pair of set up boots for free just pay shipping. size 13 oh,welcome

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Old August 22nd, 2017, 05:52 AM   #13
BeeLDub
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Name: Brandon
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R

Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
The owner's manual is a small booklet (small enough to fit under the seat). It comes with the bike. It does have some stuff like maintenance schedules in it, but that's about it. It's the equivalent of your car's owner's manual. Not terribly useful. When I get a new bike, I flip through it and chuck it in a drawer, never to be consulted again.

The service/maintenance manual is 8.5x11 and maybe 150 pages or something like that. A substantial book. It's something you have to buy separately. It tells you how to actually work on the bike, up to and including a full rebuild. That's the one that gets dog-eared and smudged.

Worth every penny if you do your own work.
Thanks! I'll try to get my hands on one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
hi and welcome!!!

To troubleshoot non-working turn-signal:

1. check fuses. Don't just look at them, measure their resistance electronically. Many times a fuse can look just fine, but won't conduct any electricity. Replace fuse if non-conductive.

2. test bulb first. Measure resistance of filament. Or apply power & ground with jumper or test cables. If bulb-lights up, then.

3. find wire-connector on inside of fairing and make sure it's connected.

4. if wire-connector IS connected, then disconnect it. Test for +12v & ground on harness-side connector.

5. if no power at turn-signal light connector, work you way up harness and make sure wire isn't broken. Then test for +12v coming out of turn-signal switch.

One of these tests will pinpoint problem area. No need to go further upstream than signal switch as the other side is working, so input +12v source to switch is OK.
Thank you! The PO thinks he may have left it unplugged I'll check it next time I get to the bike. It's only the front left that doesn't work, so it may have been a cheap light. I'll get a new set if I have to, their cheap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick9611 View Post
i have a used pair of set up boots for free just pay shipping. size 13 oh,welcome
Thank you, but that's a little big for me.


While on the subject, what sites are best for parts/accessories/gear? Motorcycle-Superstore seemed to have good prices, but Amazon just barely beat them, and free 2-day shipping for most of it.

I'm currently shopping for Jacket, Pants, Boots, Front Tire, Rear Tire, an Oil Filter, a Lock, a Cover, Shorties, and I would like to swap the headlights, tailights, and rear turns to LED.

Thanks for all of the help so far guys, and thanks in advance for anymore help you can provide!
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Old August 22nd, 2017, 05:57 AM   #14
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welcome to the party.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 04:49 PM   #15
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Old August 24th, 2017, 05:11 AM   #16
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Cool

Welcome, I'm near Valley Forge, PA.. mostly on weekends only.

Lots of decent riding in the Lehigh Valley.

Hit me up when you are ready to ride.

First SUN of everything month is the Ephrata, PA gathering. Always a good time to seem many interesting motorcycles.
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Old August 24th, 2017, 08:47 AM   #17
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Welcome. Can't give you much more advice than the awesome advice you already got.
@JacRyann I always admire your patience and know how when it comes to wiring. I may need you this winter when I clean up Lucy's wiring from all the LED lights she had on her once upon a time. The previous owner had a wife that loved everything fancy, bright, and loud. So it left me with a headache. However her need for loud also left me with a full Muzzy so for that I would like to shake her hand. The story is that she complained the bike "wasn't loud enough" so she got a new exhaust. Anyway, I'm rambling as usual.

To the OP nice bike. The retail value of your 2009 is $2475. It's for you to decide if that's fair. I love blue so yours is good on my eyes. For anything you buy aftermarket or OEM always check eBay. They've gotten a ton of my money for my '01 and '06 but the hundreds I've spent would probably have been thousands if not for them. There are sub-forums for year specific 250's that are very helpful to anything from decals to an engine rebuild. Everyone here is so helpful and so full of good information. And it seems to be a smaller community which guarantees answers to your questions and even a certain level of trust. Enjoy your bike. Learn at your own pace. Glad you took the safety course it's a must IMO. My dad was a racer and I was sitting on bikes as a baby, I still took it.
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Old August 24th, 2017, 09:46 AM   #18
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Welcome!

Keep the spanner (odd looking wrench with a notch at the end) from the toolkit too.

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Old August 27th, 2017, 07:22 AM   #19
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Old August 28th, 2017, 05:07 AM   #20
BeeLDub
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Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
hi and welcome!!!

To troubleshoot non-working turn-signal:

1. check fuses. Don't just look at them, measure their resistance electronically. Many times a fuse can look just fine, but won't conduct any electricity. Replace fuse if non-conductive.

2. test bulb first. Measure resistance of filament. Or apply power & ground with jumper or test cables. If bulb-lights up, then.

3. find wire-connector on inside of fairing and make sure it's connected.

4. if wire-connector IS connected, then disconnect it. Test for +12v & ground on harness-side connector.

5. if no power at turn-signal light connector, work you way up harness and make sure wire isn't broken. Then test for +12v coming out of turn-signal switch.

One of these tests will pinpoint problem area. No need to go further upstream than signal switch as the other side is working, so input +12v source to switch is OK.
Commuted on the bike this morning and checked out the light first. It was unplugged... haha. Thanks for the suggestions though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by "A" View Post
Welcome, I'm near Valley Forge, PA.. mostly on weekends only.

Lots of decent riding in the Lehigh Valley.

Hit me up when you are ready to ride.

First SUN of everything month is the Ephrata, PA gathering. Always a good time to seem many interesting motorcycles.
I'll have to check out Ephrata. My GF lives in Exeter, so I spend a lot of nights there, and keep the bike there, so it wouldn't be a far ride! I have most of my gear now, I PM'd you. I found what I thought (through reviews, descriptions, and prices) are the best tires for me, looks like they're also what originally came with the bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
Welcome. Can't give you much more advice than the awesome advice you already got.
@JacRyann I always admire your patience and know how when it comes to wiring. I may need you this winter when I clean up Lucy's wiring from all the LED lights she had on her once upon a time. The previous owner had a wife that loved everything fancy, bright, and loud. So it left me with a headache. However her need for loud also left me with a full Muzzy so for that I would like to shake her hand. The story is that she complained the bike "wasn't loud enough" so she got a new exhaust. Anyway, I'm rambling as usual.

To the OP nice bike. The retail value of your 2009 is $2475. It's for you to decide if that's fair. I love blue so yours is good on my eyes. For anything you buy aftermarket or OEM always check eBay. They've gotten a ton of my money for my '01 and '06 but the hundreds I've spent would probably have been thousands if not for them. There are sub-forums for year specific 250's that are very helpful to anything from decals to an engine rebuild. Everyone here is so helpful and so full of good information. And it seems to be a smaller community which guarantees answers to your questions and even a certain level of trust. Enjoy your bike. Learn at your own pace. Glad you took the safety course it's a must IMO. My dad was a racer and I was sitting on bikes as a baby, I still took it.
I think I got a good deal then! I like the bike, only a very light drop that did no physical damage, just cosmetic that has been fixed. The damage and tires probably bridge that $425 gap a bit, but I'm happy!



Thank you everyone else for the greetings!
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Old August 29th, 2017, 01:29 PM   #21
BeeLDub
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Now, anyone have the time to explain jetting to me??
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Old August 29th, 2017, 02:03 PM   #22
adouglas
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The short version:

Jets determine how much fuel goes into your carb. Bigger jets, more fuel.

But fuel and air need to be kept in the correct ratio. Dump more fuel in without doing anything else and you wind up with a too-rich mixture.

Flip side of the same coin: when you change airflow by installing a freer-flowing exhaust and/or intake, you add air. If you don't do anything else, that makes your mixture too lean.

So you install bigger jets along with your intake/exhaust mods to get the ratio back where it's supposed to be.

More air + more fuel = more power. That's why we do it.
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I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12

Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est.
Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem.
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