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Old May 3rd, 2019, 05:07 PM   #1
F9zSlavik
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Will a Suzuki GSXR Shock/Suspension 2011-2016 fit a 05 250?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162634548596?ul_noapp=true

They look the same guys. My mechanic said they look very similar. I know the pre 2011 will fit.
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Old May 4th, 2019, 10:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F9zSlavik View Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162634548596?ul_noapp=true

They look the same guys. My mechanic said they look very similar. I know the pre 2011 will fit.
Here’s a DIY guide.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=170747
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214238

Related:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=312237
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=307412

There’s spreadsheet somewhere with various specs such as spring-rate and length of various GSX-R shocks.
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Old May 20th, 2019, 04:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Thanks to the guide I was able to do it! I printed the instructions and sent it to my mechanic. Did it for me for 60 bucks yay.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214238
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Old May 20th, 2019, 07:17 PM   #4
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Awesome!
How's the ride quality?
How much do you weigh?
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Old May 21st, 2019, 11:54 AM   #5
F9zSlavik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Awesome!
How's the ride quality?
How much do you weigh?
Much better but I haven't really had a chance to use it the way I want to yet. I kept th ebike so I can use it as a daily driver, work and back, but as of late, it's been raining and I don't trust the bike in the rain. For that I use my SFV650. But so far, it's written far better, I feel it more grounded and able to maneuver better. It did raise the bike a bit but not enough to adversely affect me, not like my SFV650 (same mod) which raised it and now I can barely touch the floor with both feet.
I weigh around 150 and I am 5'7

My only issue at the moment is the front suspension. They are VERY soft and any time I break it sinks in. Any recommendations?

Also, I wanted to slap in a new K&n air filter, i wanted to remove the old air box and replace it with a nice filter that fits over the carbs but my mechanic didn't do this as he first recommended I swap out the exhaust. Is this a correct assumption?
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Old May 21st, 2019, 06:31 PM   #6
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K&N pods are not an effective "upgrade", no performance benefits for time & money. While pods may be effective on bigger bikes because it's not possible to fit 10-gallon airbox and 5-sq-ft filter on 900cc bike, the Ninjette's airflow requirement is so small that stock airbox flows more than enough and presents no restrictions. A 2-1 exhaust would yields tonnes more improvement in power.


Yeah, I had front-end bottoming issues when braking on my '02 when i first got it. Need to stiffen front-end.

1. Shorten spring & replace with PVC spacer. Did this in '80s when selection of alternate springs didn't exist. Local 250 guru docments how here: https://bayarearidersforum.com/mini/...d.php?t=310628 ... Or

2. Buy replacement springs in 0.75kg/mm rate (ideal for your weight for street riding). http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29_59

For more spirited riding than just commuting, you'll want to install Gold Valve Emulators. Use with 10-15 weight oil.
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Old May 21st, 2019, 07:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F9zSlavik View Post
Thanks to the guide I was able to do it! I printed the instructions and sent it to my mechanic.
You cracked me up with that.
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 03:16 PM   #8
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You cracked me up with that.
lol 60 bucks for peace of mind (thank god for Mexico devalued currency lol), ... also I didn't have a machine shop
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 04:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
K&N pods are not an effective "upgrade", no performance benefits for time & money. While pods may be effective on bigger bikes because it's not possible to fit 10-gallon airbox and 5-sq-ft filter on 900cc bike, the Ninjette's airflow requirement is so small that stock airbox flows more than enough and presents no restrictions. A 2-1 exhaust would yields tonnes more improvement in power.


Yeah, I had front-end bottoming issues when braking on my '02 when i first got it. Need to stiffen front-end.

1. Shorten spring & replace with PVC spacer. Did this in '80s when selection of alternate springs didn't exist. Local 250 guru docments how here: https://bayarearidersforum.com/mini/...d.php?t=310628 ... Or

2. Buy replacement springs in 0.75kg/mm rate (ideal for your weight for street riding). http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29_59

For more spirited riding than just commuting, you'll want to install Gold Valve Emulators. Use with 10-15 weight oil.
What do you mean by 2-1 exhaust? Sorry, <--newb
To clarify, your saying I can either shorten the springs and add PVC spacers or I can buy some springs?
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 05:50 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by F9zSlavik View Post
What do you mean by 2-1 exhaust? Sorry, <--newb
Factory exhaust for pre-gen 250 is 2-2 design (2-cylinders out 2-mufflers). Like right-most photo below.


https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Will_a...it_my_88-07%3F

Exhaust in 2-2 configuration favours high-end RPM power and gives pre-gen its dead mid-range/screaming top-end characteristic. Fitting 2-1 exhaust (left 2 photos), yields more usable mid-range torque and less top-end power. Certainly more friendly on street-bike and you won't need to downshift 2 or 3-gears to pass on carriageway. Not easy to find, but it's not difficult to modify newgen to fit, or convert pregen 2-2 exhaust by fitting merge and rear section of newgen 2-1 exhaust onto 2-2 header pipes.

Some Ali el-cheapo exhausts that comes in separate sections can also be made to fit by pivoting header sections to fit between head and collector. They claim it fits pregen 250, newgen 250 as well as 300. I can at least verify that it fits pregen and newgen 250 bikes (don't have 300 on-hand to test fit).
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 05:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by F9zSlavik View Post
To clarify, your saying I can either shorten the springs and add PVC spacers or I can buy some springs?
Either way will work, cut springs or buy new stiffer springs. In both cases, you'll need to make up for shorter & stiffer springs with PVC spacers, because by their nature, stiffer springs have fewer or thicker coils and are shorter (lower set).



Stock springs (upper set) already have factory steel spacer. You'll need to increase spacer-length with a PVC version to make up for shorter stiffer spring of either homemade or bought variety. What's difficult to see is small washer between factory spring and spacer. Be sure to carry over that washer to new springs. Aim for about 1/4" pre-load like factory configuration. That is, spring+spacer is 1/4" longer than space inside fork, so you have to compress stack about 1/4" when putting end-caps on.

For your weight, you may want to remove only 8-coils from factory spring (Gary and I are about 170-lbs and need 10-coils removed).
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Old May 30th, 2019, 03:53 PM   #12
F9zSlavik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Either way will work, cut springs or buy new stiffer springs. In both cases, you'll need to make up for shorter & stiffer springs with PVC spacers, because by their nature, stiffer springs have fewer or thicker coils and are shorter (lower set).



Stock springs (upper set) already have factory steel spacer. You'll need to increase spacer-length with a PVC version to make up for shorter stiffer spring of either homemade or bought variety. What's difficult to see is small washer between factory spring and spacer. Be sure to carry over that washer to new springs. Aim for about 1/4" pre-load like factory configuration. That is, spring+spacer is 1/4" longer than space inside fork, so you have to compress stack about 1/4" when putting end-caps on.

For your weight, you may want to remove only 8-coils from factory spring (Gary and I are about 170-lbs and need 10-coils removed).
This is FANTASTIC information and I am super grateful!
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Old May 30th, 2019, 04:02 PM   #13
F9zSlavik
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When you say remove 8 coils, count from the top (opposite side of spacers) and count 8, then cut it from there?

Side question

I didn't install the single pod air filter because I was told I would need to jet the carbs and my mechanic felt that before I do this I need to change the exhaust.

1, do I really need to change the exhaust to add the air filter? I plan on doing an exhaust mod but I'm not willing to do it just yet

2, i was told that I need to JET the carbs if I do either mod (air filter or/and exhaust). Is it hard to JET the carbs? Meaning if I did the air pod myself, is it easy enough to jet the carbs myself?
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Old May 30th, 2019, 04:26 PM   #14
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Shouldn't matter which side of spring you cut, should be symmetrical.

You can do air-filter or exhaust mods independently. No need to re-jet carbs with filter-mod, but should at least add 1-2 washers under jet-needle with exhaust mod. Depends upon whether you install 2-2 or 2-1 exhaust.
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Old May 30th, 2019, 05:05 PM   #15
F9zSlavik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Shouldn't matter which side of spring you cut, should be symmetrical.

You can do air-filter or exhaust mods independently. No need to re-jet carbs with filter-mod, but should at least add 1-2 washers under jet-needle with exhaust mod. Depends upon whether you install 2-2 or 2-1 exhaust.
When my mechanic said (unless he is lying which I dont think he was) said when he installed the air filter the motor was struggling to stay on or was acting wonking (I dont remember his exact words) and recommended I wait.

Is he wrong becuase if he is ill do the mod myself this weekend.

What kind of washers would I need? Something like this?

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Washers_for_carb_needles



Also, how will this affect MPG?

Last futzed with by F9zSlavik; May 30th, 2019 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Left out a question and picture
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Old May 30th, 2019, 11:05 PM   #16
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Filter-mod shouldn't affect anything but high-end flow. So having difficulties idling is something else getting mixed up in process, not necessarily filters themselves.

Yup, those are washers you want!

Shouldn't change MPG any.
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Old May 31st, 2019, 10:08 AM   #17
F9zSlavik
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Sorry to be picking your brain but the more I learn the more comfortable I am doing this mods myself.

I found this site

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_...e_Ninja_250%3F

and in it it says the following (after installing pod filter)

"Pod filters
If you are willing to remove the airbox, you can use the K&N pod air filters, UNI pod air filters, or EMGO pods. The use of pod air filters slightly increases power, but it also reduces low-end driveability and reliability. Due to the fact that you will be flowing much more air without the airbox, you will need to adjust the jetting in your carburetors after you install pod filters."

Would this explain why when my mechanic installed it it had trouble staying on? If yes, would you recommend adding some washers to the needles?

Same article has a link to :
"How do I install a jet kit?"
Do I need a jet kit or are the *washers* the poors man version of that kit?

Lastly:
Do I need to mess with the idle screws?
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removi...re_screw_plugs
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Old May 31st, 2019, 11:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Filter-mod shouldn't affect anything but high-end flow. So having difficulties idling is something else getting mixed up in process, not necessarily filters themselves.

Yup, those are washers you want!

Shouldn't change MPG any.
Sorry to be picking your brain but the more I learn the more comfortable I am doing this mods myself.

I found this site

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_...e_Ninja_250%3F

and in it it says the following (after installing pod filter)

"Pod filters
If you are willing to remove the airbox, you can use the K&N pod air filters, UNI pod air filters, or EMGO pods. The use of pod air filters slightly increases power, but it also reduces low-end driveability and reliability. Due to the fact that you will be flowing much more air without the airbox, you will need to adjust the jetting in your carburetors after you install pod filters."

Would this explain why when my mechanic installed it it had trouble staying on? If yes, would you recommend adding some washers to the needles?

Same article has a link to :
"How do I install a jet kit?"
Do I need a jet kit or are the *washers* the poors man version of that kit?

Lastly:
Do I need to mess with the idle screws?
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removi...re_screw_plugs
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Old June 3rd, 2019, 07:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Shouldn't matter which side of spring you cut, should be symmetrical.

You can do air-filter or exhaust mods independently. No need to re-jet carbs with filter-mod, but should at least add 1-2 washers under jet-needle with exhaust mod. Depends upon whether you install 2-2 or 2-1 exhaust.
what size washers do you use to raise the needles? im going to do this probably today, as my ninja is running open headers. idk how thick said washers should be, any further info on that?
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Old June 3rd, 2019, 02:46 PM   #20
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Ones that came with my DynoJet kit are 0,6mm thick. Usually don't need more than 1 or 2 of them.
Better yet, dyno-tune or use wideband to plot actual AFR graph, then adjust from there.
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