Shell Rotella T5 anyone?

[ricomtzjr]

So I went into the local NAPA to pick up an oil filter for my CTS. What do I find sitting on the shelf in he oil section? Shell Rotella T5 (10W40) heavy duty oil. I know that the 15-40 Rotella T is popular amongst riders, and Rotella T6 (5W40) synthetic is becoming popular as well.

Coincidentally, I was speaking to a friend of mine about what oil I would run during the summer. Problem solved, Shell Rotella T5 (10W40) full syn heavy duty oil...

Unfortunately, I have only seen this at NAPA; the T6 is available at Walmart along with the regular Shell Rotella T 15W40.

[YunMing]

Been using Mobile 1 10w - 40 and recently switched to Rotella T6. Honestly I can't really tell the difference

[josefmd]

Just did my first oil change at 600 miles, and put in Rotella T 15-40. At the next change I am going to switch to full syn either T6, or T5 if I can find it without too many issues.

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by YunMing

Been using Mobile 1 10w - 40 and recently switched to Rotella T6. Honestly I can't really tell the difference

Your wallet has more money in it after oil changes.

[ricomtzjr]

Same here, I bought Rotella T6 not knowing about T5.
Looks like Rotella T5 will be my summer fill.

Menikmati, how are you getting your fuelly logo on here, every time I use the links, it ends up like this below...

[EsrTek]

my first 2 oil changes in syn I use T6.. I found the T5 also at napa and am running it now.
I can't tell any diff, I just feel better using a 10w-40

[ricomtzjr]

Yeah, especially in the hot Texas summers...the T6 is good for El Paso's 30-40s mornings and 60s afternoons...

But yeah, it's just a peace of mind thing for me too.

[tapdiggy]

Originally Posted by EsrTek

my first 2 oil changes in syn I use T6.. I found the T5 also at napa and am running it now.
I can't tell any diff, I just feel better using a 10w-40

I don't recall, what is the recommended oil weight for ninjas?

[ricomtzjr]

According to the manual, anywhere from 10W30 up to 10W50 and 20W40 to 20W50.

[tapdiggy]

Originally Posted by ricomtzjr

According to the manual, anywhere from 10W30 up to 10W50 and 20W40 to 20W50.

K.

So I'm curious on the "peace of mind" aspect concerning the use of T6 5W-40 over the T5 10W-40, . I don't imagine the oil is going to stay in the cold range long enough to scrape up the cylinder or hurt a valve.

[ricomtzjr]

Yeah, I see where you're coming from. From what I would understand, a syn 10W40 will flow below 0*F and the 5W40 will go further than that...I used to do that for my vehicles, but now I just stick with 5W30 for my car and truck.

I may just stay with 5W40 syn. Year round...my worry is that I just bought it in October with 1 mile and purchased a year of extended warranty. I just don't want to void my warranty since a 5W40 isn't on the recommend listing...

[tapdiggy]

Originally Posted by ricomtzjr

Yeah, I see where you're coming from. From what I would understand, a syn 10W40 will flow below 0*F and the 5W40 will go further than that...I used to do that for my vehicles, but now I just stick with 5W30 for my car and truck.

I may just stay with 5W40 syn. Year round...my worry is that I just bought it in October with 1 mile and purchased a year of extended warranty. I just don't want to void my warranty since a 5W40 isn't on the recommend listing...

That is a good reason. Never know if you bought the bike with an wonky engine that suddenly blows a top end (seriously, it happens). Dealers can be sticklers to avoid free work. Moral is, if you are gonna do your own maintenance, don't buy extended warranties. I guess. I am kinda cheap so I consider them anyway.

[ricomtzjr]

Well, my own maintenance is limited to all the basic preventive maintenance and DIY projects. I am not experienced nor do I have the tools to do major work like an engine rebuild, which is why I purchased a year extension.

[tapdiggy]

Originally Posted by ricomtzjr

Well, my own maintenance is limited to all the basic preventive maintenance and DIY projects. I am not experienced nor do I have the tools to do major work like an engine rebuild, which is why I purchased a year extension.

Word. Comes back to the peace of mind thing. like I said, I'm cheap. I'll buy the expensive thing that will hold up, or the cheap thing that I don't mind replacing. Can't really do that with bikes, so I get your point.

[geeker]

Rotella T5 is not a JASO MA certified oil. It is an energy conserving oil which can promote clutch slippage. See http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...c_brochure.pdf for specifications.

[tapdiggy]

Originally Posted by geeker

Rotella T5 is not a JASO MA certified oil. It is an energy conserving oil which can promote clutch slippage. See http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...c_brochure.pdf for specifications.

If the 300 riders get "slipper" clutches, shouldn't everyone?

[geeker]

Originally Posted by tapdiggy

If the 300 riders get "slipper" clutches, shouldn't everyone?

Sure. Why not? But a slipper clutch doesn't slip while accelerating. It slips when not enough throttle is applied during downshifting to prevent rear wheel lockup.

[ricomtzjr]

Well, I could have sworn it was a JASO MA cert oil. I'll have to look at it again at NAPA. Not that I am doubting you, since your reference is a Shell website...I just thought I saw it on there...so if I am, in fact, wrong then I retract my previous statements about Rotella T5.

[EsrTek]

Originally Posted by geeker

Rotella T5 is not a JASO MA certified oil. It is an energy conserving oil which can promote clutch slippage. See http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...c_brochure.pdf for specifications.

Interesting... I admit I know nothing really about oil, figured if they sold it on same shelf as others it was the same. I only wanted to run 10w-40 because that is what the dealer put in it. They have many more yrs Exp then me, so figured it was better to keep my choices along same guidelines.

[ricomtzjr]

There is a lot of hype for and against dealer recommendations...

I have read oil articles where some have run nothing but auto oil and never had a problem. It's your bike, I say put want you want in it.

[geeker]

A good read: http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

[ricomtzjr]

Originally Posted by geeker

A good read: http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

That was some really good reading...another reason as to why I chose to use shell Rotella T6. One thing though, I would stay away from "energy conserving" starburst oils.

For my 600 mile change, I went with the petroleum Valvoline mc oil for about $4/qt. Now I am approaching 2000 miles and am ready to do another oil change, this time with Shell Rotella T6 syn; it cost me a whole $23 for a gallon, which is good enough for 2 fills.