Overheating

[Avenged7Fold]

AGAIN! It's heating up here in Phoenix, Arizona.. and so is my bike. I replaced the raditator cap, my thermostat works, pump works, fan works, yet I'm still riding the red line on temperature gauge after a 15 min ride. Of course, the bike is sitting in 104 degree F sunny weather all day. Is this normal? Can I do anything to lower the temperature? I saw THIS, would that help? Other than this, the only flaws that I can see with my cooling system is that the overflow tank tube that connects in the top has a tear in it, which drips a tiny bit of coolant when the bike is shut off. Can this be messing with the cooling system by releasing pressure or something? As I mentioned at the top, I replaced the raditator cap, my thermostat works, pump works, fan works... what else should I test?

Does the bike naturally run REALLY hot, just touching the red zone, and possibly getting there if I'm at a long enough light?

[Motofool]

Not normal.

Your radiator may be partially clogged.

Coolant should be fully replaced every couple of years, or it starts decomposing and corroding the metals.

If distillate water has been added, internal hard deposits build up in the hot spots.

The easiest thing is to replace the coolant and use a strong mix (70% glycol 30% water).

Counter-flushing the radiator may help.

Be sure that no air is trapped in the system.

[Avenged7Fold]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Not normal.

Your radiator may be partially clogged.

Coolant should be fully replaced every couple of years, or it starts decomposing and corroding the metals.

If distillate water has been added, internal hard deposits build up in the hot spots.

The easiest thing is to replace the coolant and use a strong mix (70% glycol 30% water).

Counter-flushing the radiator may help.

Be sure that no air is trapped in the system.

I flushed the coolant system and added 50/50 Peak coolant, still over heats

[Stingray1000]

Originally Posted by Avenged7Fold

I flushed the coolant system and added 50/50 Peak coolant, still over heats

My bike always feels hot between my legs but I jsut thought it was because she liked me... Needle is always half way to red when I look tho, maybe a lil further but not much. Always wondered if she was over heating...

[cuong-nutz]

CHeck to see if your radiator fins aren't clogged. Give it a good rinse to make sure. You could possibly have air in your lines. Check to see if the coolant sensor is t damage or coroded so that the fan kicks on when it should. Fan orientated right(don't think you could mess this up).

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Avenged7Fold

I flushed the coolant system and added 50/50 Peak coolant, still over heats

Either your radiator is clogged with hard incrustations or your system is not holding the pressure stamped on the cap while hot, making the coolant boil.

That drop should not be there.
When hot, the coolant level in the reservoir should go high but not overflow.
When cool, the coolant level in the reservoir should return to normal.

http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/...gpressure.html

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

[DaBlue1]

Here is some more good information about the cooling system on the Ninja 250.
This comes from a trusted and reliable source.

"The "correct operating temperature" is any temperature between the second low mark and the bottom of the red zone, which are connected together by an arc line. If the gauge shows colder than the second low mark after the engine has been warmed up, or into the red at any time, that indicates a problem with the cooling system. Additionally, the bike's temperature will tend to run hotter during stop-and-go traffic and cooler out on the open road, due to the cooling effect of the wind.

The fan engages at a predetermined point on the temperature gauge (they're not actually tied together in the sense of using the same temperature sensor, though). Many bikes engage the fan just below the red zone, while others have been reported engaging the fan at the mid-way point on the temperature gauge. The most important thing here is that it's entirely normal for your bike's temperature gauge to run all the way up to the bottom of the red zone before the fan comes on."
- http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

A few other things you can do is try to park in the shade, clean and inspect the fins of the radiator (already mention), switch to a heavier synthetic oil (possibly a 20w-50) and make sure all your hose are in good condition.

[Avenged7Fold]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Here is some more good information about the cooling system on the Ninja 250.
This comes from a trusted and reliable source.

"The "correct operating temperature" is any temperature between the second low mark and the bottom of the red zone, which are connected together by an arc line. If the gauge shows colder than the second low mark after the engine has been warmed up, or into the red at any time, that indicates a problem with the cooling system. Additionally, the bike's temperature will tend to run hotter during stop-and-go traffic and cooler out on the open road, due to the cooling effect of the wind.

The fan engages at a predetermined point on the temperature gauge (they're not actually tied together in the sense of using the same temperature sensor, though). Many bikes engage the fan just below the red zone, while others have been reported engaging the fan at the mid-way point on the temperature gauge. The most important thing here is that it's entirely normal for your bike's temperature gauge to run all the way up to the bottom of the red zone before the fan comes on."
- http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

A few other things you can do is try to park in the shade, clean and inspect the fins of the radiator (already mention), switch to a heavier synthetic oil (possibly a 20w-50) and make sure all your hose are in good condition.

I'm going to change the oil this weekend, and the hose connecting to the overflow tank is ripped. Might this be releasing pressure, causing overheating?

[alex.s]

the radiator cap has a pressure valve that closes off the overflow line if there is not too much pressure and no vacuum in the coolant line. coolant coming out of the broken overflow line simply means that the bike is over heating, the coolant is boiling inside the system, and pressure is trying to escape. first check under the radiator cap... is it full? no? then fill it up, and try to get the air out by squeezing coolant lines on the other side. turn it on until the thermostat opens and coolant flows, then turn it off and check again. keep doing it until it is full and stays full. once you know you have proper amount of coolant, see if the radiator is even doing its job... turn it on and once its warm and the coolant is flowing, feel both ends of the radiator inlets. one hose should be hot, the other should be considerably cooler (the one on the left/bottom) if they are both the same temperature, either your radiator is clogged or your coolant isnt pumping quick enough which could mean another coolant line is clogged or your water pump isnt pumping well enough for some reason. if your cooling system IS working, and the bike is STILL overheating then you have serious issues. could be bad air/fuel ratios, could be worn bearings, could be valve train issues, could be oil supply issues.