January 22nd, 2021, 06:03 PM | #41 | |
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Ok, show us picture of how you have ballast-resistors connected. Much, much easier to not install those and just replace flasher-relay with LED-compatible unit. Also don't tell me you use crimp-connectors! They are unreliable and intermittent connections can be cause you more frustration as circuits will work some times and not at other times.
Link to original page on YouTube. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; February 1st, 2021 at 05:00 PM. |
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January 22nd, 2021, 06:12 PM | #42 |
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Background on electronics:
DIODES flow current in one direction only. They are used to form AND/OR logic decisions. Such as kickstand-up OR clutch-squeezed AND neutral-yes. Etc... Look at diodes A and B in diagram. Now, what you've done with LED turn-signals (which works just like normal diodes) is also form complicated AND/OR circuits and only certain combinations will work. There is parallel and in-line configurations of these LED bulbs and ballast-resistors that must be used so that both front & rear work together. It's obvious they are not connected properly if you have to disconnect front & rear turn-signals so that only one works properly. And it changes with wiggling wires from disconnecting/reconnecting dash. So there's bad flaky inconsistent wiring-connections as well. There's simply too many errors in these circuits. Nothing can be fixed until wiring is restored to 100% stock OEM condition and ALL lights are working. Then we can do upgrades. |
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January 22nd, 2021, 06:16 PM | #43 | ||
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5. measure resistance between these wires, disconnect battery, unplug ignition-switch from harness, KEY ON W <--> BR ohms = ??? W <--> GY ohms = ??? BL <--> R ohms = ??? W/B <--> O/G ohms = ??? DO NOT puncture wires!!! This will introduce moisture and cause green/black wire disease and cause future issues. Along with potential for shorting wires across each other. |
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January 22nd, 2021, 07:08 PM | #44 |
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There is two videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3X9dqk4Gqf5hpD26
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January 22nd, 2021, 07:47 PM | #45 | |
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Maybe in this way will be more clear (like a table): Dash ON - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight OFF - Rear turn signals OFF Dash ON - Front turn signals connected - Taillight OFF - Rear turn signals ON Dash ON - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF Dash ON - Front turn signals connected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF Dash OFF - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight ON - Rear turn signals ON Dash OFF - Front turn signals connected - Taillight ON - Rear turn signals ON Dash OFF - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF Dash OFF - Front turn signals connected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF If you see the videos above, will be easy to understand. No crimp-connectors, all are solded (I have only the resistor of the picture).
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January 22nd, 2021, 07:59 PM | #46 | |||
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Quote:
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Okok!
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January 23rd, 2021, 07:39 AM | #47 | |
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When I say "lights don't work", I mean "light circuits", which is battery+switches+wires+bulbs combined. And you'd done very good job of creating table: Your bike's lights, when all parts are assembled like factory configuration, does not function like stock when you push turn-signal button. It functions like top table, not bottom one. So I'm saying "your light circuits do not work". 1. when pushing turn-signal switch, what transmits power to light bulbs to tell them to turn on? 2. Assuming switch and bulbs are OK, when you push turn-signal switch and bulbs DO NOT turn ON, where do you think problem is? There's at least 18 wiring-connections that are not stock in your wiring-harness. That's 18x2x2 = 72 possible combinations! You can play around and test and try to fix by changing each and every connection. Until you've tried all 72 combinations and one of them will work. This may take you 3-4 weeks, or more. What I'm suggesting is to do just 2 configurations of wiring circuits (instead of 71 more) : 1. go back to config of lighting circuits that work 100%. That was stock OEM configuration. We know that works for sure. 2. Then install LED upgrades, one bulb at time. Test after each one installed to verify entire lighting system and circuits work like stock (2nd table). I can show you how to hook up each bulb so entire system will work. But only from 100% stock system with switches and circuits working like they should. This entire process will take one day maximum. Money-back guarantee! Well, since you are not paying me any money, all I can give you is bike with upgraded LED lighting system with circuits and switches that work like they should. |
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January 23rd, 2021, 01:19 PM | #48 |
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BTW, when installing LED bulbs, did you use multimeter to find +12v wire in circuit? Or did you just plug into connector like original?
Also how do you have ballast-resistors connected? Where are your photos? It's just like maths class, show your work! Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; January 23rd, 2021 at 03:18 PM. |
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January 24th, 2021, 10:12 AM | #50 |
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Hello everyone! I was with some personal issues and did not have time to respond. Anyway I can't do tests until I have everything in condition in my workspace, there is a lot to do and I need to be prepared. I must solve it because it is the motorcycle that I use in case they call me from work. I'll be back soon and answer everything, and above all I will try to have some test done. Thank you all for trying to help me!
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January 24th, 2021, 10:58 PM | #51 |
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make sure you document everything you do so you can re-assemble or reverse if needed. Take lots of photos. For example:
- fuel-valve vacuum line - fuel-level sender wire - ignition switch connector - etc. |
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February 1st, 2021, 11:42 AM | #52 |
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[QUOTE=DannoXYZ;1281505]You have fuel-valve problems too? What position do you have valve set to? It should point to ON. Which means petrol only flows when engine is spinning. Otherwise it is closed and stops petrol flow. If it doesn't function like this, you need to fix fuel-valve as well.
Confirmed.. fuel-valve broken.. I took out the tank and I had a lot of trouble putting it somewhere else.. My house smells like gasoline, I hate it. I had to put it back on the bike but I could see where the problem is. Brown cable Pin on switch harness connector is like burned.. the same thing with the other connector of the harness.. but no fuse broken.. The other suspicious is the regulator/rectifier (brown cable direction). Regulator/rectifier resistant testings: BLACK ON W PIN W-Y1: 1420 Kohms W-Y2: 1490 Kohms W-Y3: 1430 Kohms BLACK ON BK/Y PIN BK/Y-Y1: 1 BK/Y-Y2: 1 BK/Y-Y3: 1 Polarity inverted: RED ON W PIN W-Y1: 1 W-Y2: 1 W-Y3: 1 RED ON BK/Y PIN BK/Y-Y1: 1440 Kohms BK/Y-Y2: 1410 Kohms BK/Y-Y3: 1450 Kohms Well, to fix it, you have to remove tank anyway to remove ignition-switch. Might as well measure all wires outlined above so you can determine which contacts inside switch is problem. Add these additional tests to those above: 5. measure resistance between these wires, disconnect battery, unplug ignition-switch from harness, KEY ON I measured continuity instead of resistance between the terminals with KEY ON: W <--> BR ohms = tester beeping W <--> GY ohms = tester beeping BL <--> R ohms = tester beeping W/B <--> O/G ohms = tester beeping Apparently the switch is not the problem..
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February 1st, 2021, 01:29 PM | #53 |
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Well, if you've got fuel-valve issues, you can lay tank down sideways so valve is higher than petrol level. Or disconnect fuel-hose from carburetor, screw big bolt into hose to stop petrol flow. Then pull tank with hose.
Let's do these tests from earlier. Back probe harness side of connector so reading is taken after connector.. When you get steady voltage reading, wiggle key in ignition switch and see if voltage drops. Then repeat for next wire. 2. KEY OFF - ignition-switch connector BR = voltage ?? W = voltage ?? R/BL = voltage ?? W/BK = voltage ?? W/G = voltage ?? GY = voltage ?? 3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector BR = voltage ?? W = voltage ?? R/BL = voltage ?? W/BK = voltage ?? W/G = voltage ?? GY = voltage ?? 4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box W/G = voltage ??? O/G = voltage ??? BR/W = voltage ??? BR/BK = voltage ??? R/BL = voltage ??? GY = voltage ??? BR = voltage ??? W/BL = voltage ??? W = voltage ??? While you do those, I'll write up test to trace flow of electricity from battery to starter-solenoid. Somewhere you may have break in circuit. Post photos of burnt-looking connector and brown wire. Also photos of your turn-signal installations. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; February 3rd, 2021 at 08:46 AM. |
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February 1st, 2021, 02:46 PM | #54 |
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Here's test of starter circuit (clip black-probe to battery-negative terminal to free 3rd hand):
6. KEY ON, test voltage at these points battery +positive terminal = voltage ??? B-terminal of starter-solenoid = voltage ??? White wire leaving starter-solenoid = voltage ??? (pull back rubber cover on connector and back-probe) White wire at ignition-switch connector = voltage ??? Brown wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = voltage ??? Grey wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = voltage ??? Brown wire going into fuse-box = voltage ??? Yellow/Red wire going into start/stop/kill switch = voltage??? start/stop/kill switch ON Red wire leaving start/stop/kill switch = voltage ??? Red wire going into start-button = voltage ??? press START button and hold down Black/Red wire leaving start-button = voltage ??? both Blue wires going into starter-circuit relay = voltage ??? Yellow/Red wire leaving starter-circuit relay = voltage ??? Yellow/Red wire going into starter-solenoid = voltage ??? (pull rubber cover off and back-probe) M-terminal of starter-solenoid = voltage ??? release START button This basically follows path of electricity from battery to starter motor. Where +12v power disappears shows problem is previous junction. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; February 1st, 2021 at 09:35 PM. |
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February 2nd, 2021, 11:16 AM | #55 | |
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February 2nd, 2021, 11:44 AM | #56 | |
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February 2nd, 2021, 05:35 PM | #57 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all |
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February 2nd, 2021, 07:04 PM | #58 | |
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February 2nd, 2021, 07:40 PM | #59 |
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February 2nd, 2021, 09:21 PM | #60 | |
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February 7th, 2021, 02:34 PM | #61 |
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Hi Danno! I already did my homework! I took all the measurements you asked for. I found that the brown wire that comes from the ignition key has 12.6v and stops having them after the connector. Something made the brown wire connector hot to the point of needing to separate, we'd have to figure out what causes it. Also, the gray cable has 6.6v, which seems strange to me..
I hope we find the solution! Thanks again for the time and patience to answer me. Here are the photos that you asked me of the connector burned with the brown wire, and the turns signals connections (It took me a while because I had the connections protected and I had to disassemble them) Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3X9dqk4Gqf5hpD26 Measurements: 2. KEY OFF - ignition-switch connector BR = 0v W = 12,6v R/BL = 0v W/BK = 12,6v W/G = 0v GY = 0v 3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector BR = 12,6v W = 12,6v R/BL = 0v W/BK = 12,6v W/G = 12,6v GY = 6,66v 4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box W/G = 12,6v O/G = 12,6v BR/W = 0v BR/BK = 0v R/BL = 0v GY = 0v BR = 0v W/BL = 12,6v W = 12,6v 6. KEY ON, test voltage at these points battery +positive terminal = 12,6v B-terminal of starter-solenoid = 12,6v White wire leaving starter-solenoid = 12,6v (pull back rubber cover on connector and back-probe) White wire at ignition-switch connector = 12,6v Brown wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = 0v Grey wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = 6,6v Brown wire going into fuse-box = 0v Yellow/Red wire going into start/stop/kill switch = 0v start/stop/kill switch ON Red wire leaving start/stop/kill switch = 0v Red wire going into start-button = 0v press START button and hold down Black/Red (is Blue/Red) wire leaving start-button = 0v both Blue wires going into starter-circuit relay = 0,58v (both) Yellow/Red wire leaving starter-circuit relay = 0v Yellow/Red wire going into starter-solenoid = 0v (pull rubber cover off and back-probe) M-terminal of starter-solenoid = 0v release START button
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February 7th, 2021, 10:47 PM | #62 | ||
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This is very good testing and troubleshooting!!! First simple matter:
Quote:
Good job, you've identified the problem here: Quote:
White corrosion on brass terminals of your ignition-switch connector is from contact with water. Zinc in brass connector reacts with water to form white powder and increases resistance of connection. This causes heat and burns surface, prevents electricity from flowing. Do you live near ocean? I had this problem with my VF500F when I lived next to ocean at university. There's multiple ways to fix this with different levels of difficulty and depth. Easiest first step is to remove corrosion from male terminals of ignition-switch connector. 1. unplug ignition-switch connector from harness 2. wrap some 300-400 grit sandpaper around tip of small flat screwdriver 3. lightly sand both sides of each male connector to remove white powder 4. blow off all dust 5. connect ignition-switch back to harness 6. Turn key ON, do you have light on dash? Tail-light work? Horn work? 6a. If YES, then disconnect ignition-switch connector and apply some dielectric-grease to male-terminals. Proceed to #77. connect ignition-switch back to harness 8. test starting engine. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; February 8th, 2021 at 09:12 AM. |
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February 7th, 2021, 11:07 PM | #63 |
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What is resistance value of ballast resistor you're using?
To prevent more issues, apply some heat-shrink wrap around all female 6.3mm spade connectors used to connect to factory harness. This prevents positive wire of each turn-signal from touching negative wire. You've done very nice job with LED turn-signals. Makes it easy to disconnect and troubleshoot. You also add these connectors to factory turn-signals so they can be swapped back in easily. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; February 8th, 2021 at 09:16 AM. |
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February 8th, 2021, 02:03 PM | #64 | |
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February 8th, 2021, 02:16 PM | #65 | |
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February 8th, 2021, 02:26 PM | #66 | |||
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While you're looking, get some of this DeoxIT liquid or spray version. It's chemical cleaner that dissolves white corrosion. Easier to do on female connectors that aren't easy to sand. Use on both sides after mechanically removing as much corrosion as possible. Should be OK after full cleaning to re-assemble and test. After we get this fixed, you can seal connector even more by wrapping it completely in electrical tape. |
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February 8th, 2021, 03:25 PM | #67 | |
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March 9th, 2021, 12:20 PM | #68 |
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I wanted to thank everyone for the help, especially Danno.
I have already solved the problem. I regret the delay in responding, I had personal problems to attend to and I could not continue writing. I made sure to remove all pin-by-pin corrosion on both connectors and then protect it with electrical tape and with that everything was back to normal! I also took advantage of the fact that I had the motorcycle disassembled to solve small things that were still pending. Regarding the circuit of turns signals, I checked everything very carefully and I did not see anything that was malfunctioning or causing problems in practice and for that reason I did not consider that there was more to do. I have already been able to use the bike several times and it is as if this never happened Thanks again! and if there is anything I can help you with, you can write to me!
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