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Old June 17th, 2013, 11:27 AM   #1
tsdexter
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spark plug replacement during other work?

Once my shipment comes in I'm going to be doing new EBC HH front brake pads, a galfer braided stainless steel brake line, possibly a JT 15T sprocket (different shipment time for that) and an oil change...

New spark plugs are $5 each... should I order those and replace them while I'm in there too.. I've got 13-14k miles, I haven't really noticed any performance issues or start up issues, in fact, it started practically instantly after the winter but will new spark plugs be worthwhile to do for only $10 and some time or should I just leave them? (I'm no expert)

Also, a month or so ago I had a child sitting on the bike for a photo-op and she rev'd the engine right up to like 11k (near the redline) - not sustained at all, just rev'd and let go and since then, I might be just paranoid, but it seems to be making some kind of vibrating/buzzing sound when I'm riding over 6-7k, can't tell if it's plastics somewhere or coming from the engine? I'm about to take it all apart and looks for loose stuff, do you think that could have caused something in the engine? or probably just something loose somewhere?
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Old June 17th, 2013, 11:42 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsdexter View Post
Once my shipment comes in I'm going to be doing new EBC HH front brake pads, a galfer braided stainless steel brake line, possibly a JT 15T sprocket (different shipment time for that) and an oil change...

New spark plugs are $5 each... should I order those and replace them while I'm in there too.. I've got 13-14k miles, I haven't really noticed any performance issues or start up issues, in fact, it started practically instantly after the winter but will new spark plugs be worthwhile to do for only $10 and some time or should I just leave them? (I'm no expert)

Also, a month or so ago I had a child sitting on the bike for a photo-op and she rev'd the engine right up to like 11k (near the redline) - not sustained at all, just rev'd and let go and since then, I might be just paranoid, but it seems to be making some kind of vibrating/buzzing sound when I'm riding over 6-7k, can't tell if it's plastics somewhere or coming from the engine? I'm about to take it all apart and looks for loose stuff, do you think that could have caused something in the engine? or probably just something loose somewhere?
The kid revving the bike would not have caused any damage. The list of stuff your doing doesn't include removing any bodywork or tank so there's no convenience in doing the plugs at the same time. I do my plugs when I do my valves since I'm literally right there.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:00 PM   #3
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Changing spark plugs is not a bad idea especially if they have not been changed yet. Kawasaki recommends replacement @ 7500 miles, so if you have not replaced them on your 2008, there is no time like the present. While you're at it, throw in some Iridium Plugs (for a tiny performance bump) for a few dollars more, also replace the stock air filter if you haven't already done so.

A little high revving shouldn't hurt anything. As far as the vibration goes, just make sure everything is tightened correctly especially everything around the exhaust.

Have you had the valves adjusted?
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:03 PM   #4
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I agree with rojoracing53

The thread of the plugs is fragile; the less you mess with it, the best.

I replace the plugs when adjusting valves after 6K miles and they look still new.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:08 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info..

I was thinking of doing the plugs because I'm taking off all the fairings to check for loose parts and also putting in iridium ones.. However it does seem like a fragile job that maybe I should leave to a pro? I dont have the experience/knowledge of hand but I am a technical person and can do most of mechanical/electrical work from tutorials without messing anything up.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBlue1 View Post
Changing spark plugs is not a bad idea especially if they have not been changed yet. Kawasaki recommends replacement @ 7500 miles, so if you have not replaced them on your 2008, there is no time like the present. While you're at it, throw in some Iridium Plugs (for a tiny performance bump) for a few dollars more, also replace the stock air filter if you haven't already done so.

A little high revving shouldn't hurt anything. As far as the vibration goes, just make sure everything is tightened correctly especially everything around the exhaust.

Have you had the valves adjusted?
Air filter is upgraded to KN high flow

I haven't done the valves, last guy probably didn't either, not really sure. I bought it at 11200miles. How much would you say is reasonable at a shop for this ?j
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:14 PM   #7
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...........However it does seem like a fragile job that maybe I should leave to a pro?.........
No, you will be able to do it, like any other maintenance work.

You only have to be careful about not crossing the threads and not over-torquing them.

See how to:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changin...d#Installation
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:18 PM   #8
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No, you will be able to do it, like any other maintenance work.

You only have to be careful about not crossing the threads and not over-torquing them.

See how to:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changin...d#Installation
Thanks, ill probably do it myself then.. Forgot to order the plugs with all the brake parts, waiting on the site to email me back about adding them to my last order from only 2 hours ago as its free shipping over $99, otherwise ill be paying double for the plugs including shipping.

Plz see my post above about valves
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Old June 17th, 2013, 12:30 PM   #9
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.....I haven't done the valves, last guy probably didn't either, not really sure. I bought it at 11200miles. How much would you say is reasonable at a shop for this ?j
Depends on the shop and how much the labor rate is. I would say sub $200 is good for a valve job.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 02:03 PM   #10
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Ok thanks.

So about 2-3 hours? I believe my mechanic is $80/h
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Old June 18th, 2013, 06:36 AM   #11
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Ok thanks.

So about 2-3 hours? I believe my mechanic is $80/h
About that, provided you don't need parts.

Also, looking at the videos you posted in your other thread, you may want to measure the thickness of your brake rotors to make sure they are within spec. That front rotor did not look right.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 10:30 AM   #12
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About that, provided you don't need parts.

Also, looking at the videos you posted in your other thread, you may want to measure the thickness of your brake rotors to make sure they are within spec. That front rotor did not look right.
There's a good chance it's not...the pads are worn pretty much completely bare...
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Old June 18th, 2013, 12:19 PM   #13
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There's a good chance it's not...the pads are worn pretty much completely bare...
I'd check to make sure there is some pad on there. If you are worn down to the backing plate, you have metal to metal contact. If so, replace the rotor.

Do you hear a scrubbing or grinding noise when you brake?
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Old June 18th, 2013, 12:45 PM   #14
tsdexter
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I'd check to make sure there is some pad on there. If you are worn down to the backing plate, you have metal to metal contact. If so, replace the rotor.

Do you hear a scrubbing or grinding noise when you brake?
I had heard it and haven't ridden since. Any brand recommendation on a rotor?
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Old June 18th, 2013, 12:52 PM   #15
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I had heard it and haven't ridden since. Any brand recommendation on a rotor?
I got Galfer Rotors. Still have not put them on yet.
Others have EBC, Stock and some other brand.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 01:38 PM   #16
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I got Galfer Rotors. Still have not put them on yet.
Others have EBC, Stock and some other brand.
Thanks. EBC pads and Galfer braided line on the way... Might as well order that too haha.
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