After Jetting, bike runs odd

[menikmati]

Did you get any other sizes? I would've gotten up to the 115's if you plan to go to a full exhaust in the future.

Since you mentioned your top-end felt good I would fiddle around with the needle height while you wait for those main jets to come in. Find the main jet that makes you go "awww hell yeahhhhhhh" at WOT to redline and fix up your mid-range by experimenting with the needle height.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by menikmati

Did you get any other sizes? I would've gotten up to the 115's if you plan to go to a full exhaust in the future.

Since you mentioned your top-end felt good I would fiddle around with the needle height while you wait for those main jets to come in. Find the main jet that makes you go "awww hell yeahhhhhhh" at WOT to redline and fix up your mid-range by experimenting with the needle height.

well from what I read on the jetting databases, everyone with the slipon and airbox delete with k&n pods are using 112's. Im using 100s now so 112 should be much better. I have no idea how to adjust needle height...I was going to just put the new mains in and see how that worked..not going full exhaust in the future either.

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by drunyon

well from what I read on the jetting databases, everyone with the slipon and airbox delete with k&n pods are using 112's. Im using 100s now so 112 should be much better. I have no idea how to adjust needle height...I was going to just put the new mains in and see how that worked..not going full exhaust in the future either.

Needle height requires removal of the gas tank for access to the carb top screws.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_..._needle_height.

I thought you installed the Dynojet kit? That kit should've come with DJ needles and e-clips so you can adjust the needle height.

Every bike is different when it comes to jetting, you also have to factor in elevation, temperature and environmental variables that come into play. You can use them as a base reference, but don't be afraid to stray a little. My bike ran great with 112.5's and the needles at the 3rd position during the summer with ambient temps of around 85-90F but I changed it recently to 115's and needles at 3.5 position for colder weather (temperatures of 45-50F).

From my experience changing out the main jets is a lot more of a pain compared to adjusting the needle height or idle mixture screws.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by menikmati

Needle height requires removal of the gas tank for access to the carb top screws.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_..._needle_height.

I thought you installed the Dynojet kit? That kit should've come with DJ needles and e-clips so you can adjust the needle height.

Every bike is different when it comes to jetting, you also have to factor in elevation, temperature and environmental variables that come into play. You can use them as a base reference, but don't be afraid to stray a little. My bike ran great with 112.5's and the needles at the 3rd position during the summer with ambient temps of around 85-90F but I changed it recently to 115's and needles at 3.5 position for colder weather (temperatures of 45-50F).

It did come with the needles and eclips, i just didnt use them lol. well sounds like getting to the needles are easier than the main jets

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by drunyon

It did come with the needles and eclips, i just didnt use them lol. well sounds like getting to the needles are easier than the main jets

Yeah, you should put those e-clips on the 3rd (middle) position and drop those in. I believe the DJ needles have a different taper compared to the stock needles so you may see a performance change just by dropping those in. I know the DJ and FP needles have different tapers but I didn't notice a performance change until I raised the needles.

" Step 2: Find the proper needle height.

Start from the tuned jet that you decided on in step 1. Use the stock needle height, and keep raising the needles by adding washers. If it runs better with more washers, then, when you get to about 4, go up a size on the main jets and start with the stock needle height again.

Even after you get the main jet correct, you will often end up with a midrange stumble at 5k-6k rpm. This has little to do with main jet size. You can take care of it by adjusting the needle height. Lower the needle until you get a mid-range stumble, then raise it by 1 washer at a time until you get rid of the stumble.

Symptoms:

LEAN = Stuttering. Runs better when bike is hot. White plugs.

RICH = Bogging. Runs better when bike is cold. Black plugs. "

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by menikmati

Yeah, you should put those e-clips on the 3rd (middle) position and drop those in. I believe the DJ needles have a different taper compared to the stock needles so you may see a performance change just by dropping those in. I know the DJ and FP needles have different tapers but I didn't notice a performance change until I raised the needles.

" Step 2: Find the proper needle height.

Start from the tuned jet that you decided on in step 1. Use the stock needle height, and keep raising the needles by adding washers. If it runs better with more washers, then, when you get to about 4, go up a size on the main jets and start with the stock needle height again.

Even after you get the main jet correct, you will often end up with a midrange stumble at 5k-6k rpm. This has little to do with main jet size. You can take care of it by adjusting the needle height. Lower the needle until you get a mid-range stumble, then raise it by 1 washer at a time until you get rid of the stumble.

Symptoms:

LEAN = Stuttering. Runs better when bike is hot. White plugs.

RICH = Bogging. Runs better when bike is cold. Black plugs. "

I may wait until the jets get here to do the needles.
Sounds pretty easy though, thanks

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by drunyon

I may wait until the jets get here to do the needles.
Sounds pretty easy though, thanks

I used this as a tuning guide when jetting my bike:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html

[drunyon]

Got the jets in the mail the other day. I didnt feel like doing it though, gotta get a hex bit for my right angle attachment. maybe I'll do it today.

[drunyon]

got the damn main air jet stuck in one of the main jet holes when reassembling.
having a friend come over tomorrow to help get it out, trying to do it without removing the carb or tank, so far went well until reaseembly .

[drunyon]

got the piece out that was stuck, when putting the jet holder back in the threads were stripped alittle so i forced it in and the damn thing broke off inside. so now i need a new carb .

[Jiggles]

Well, I'm sorry I encouraged you to do the jetting yourself, I'd thought you were capable of turning a screw.

Again, sorry man

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

Well, I'm sorry I encouraged you to do the jetting yourself, I'd thought you were capable of turning a screw.

Again, sorry man

LOL screw you!!! I was doing fine with the turning but I had stripped a few threads when I was attempting to get the thing that was stuck last week. oh well ill learn from my mistakes

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by drunyon

got the piece out that was stuck, when putting the jet holder back in the threads were stripped alittle so i forced it in and the damn thing broke off inside. so now i need a new carb .

Nail in the coffin.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by menikmati

Nail in the coffin.

well i didnt know they were stripped till i tried screwing it in, at that point it was all or nothing anyways. I'd rather risk breaking something trying to get the last bit in rather than remachining the hole. Sad part is it was about 1/2 a MM left until it was completely in when it broke . The part I have that broke off pretty much looks just like a hex nut.

[agentbad]

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rejetti...ng_pod_filters

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...e_your_jetting