Clutch :: Friction Plate & Metal Plate Install and Wear Questions

[abhijitz]

So, background : a week before when i rode at Thunderhill, i experienced extreme clutch slippage when 2+ downshifts were involved. I wasnt able to time clutch releases in the last downshift...

Came home and took off the clutch and started measuring. The friction plates did not show signs of burns but recorded thickness close to minimum spec. The springs are also close to minimum spec.

Metal plate was bluish on the flat side. The smooth/roundish side was not bluish. Unfortunately, there is no spec called for the metal plate in the manual.


My question is :

1. If the inside of the metal plate is bluish, shouldnt the side of the friction plate which mated with this bluish side of the metal plate also show signs of burns?

2. Orientation of metal plates :: In one of the 2007 Clutch install DIYs OP called for right orientation of the plates. Smooth/roundish surface towards the inside of the bike. I had mine outside [basically aligned it similar to what stock was ; i had replaced clutch in 2012 ... burnt it doing multiple practice starts, stupid me]

-- The 08 manual doesnt call for any orientation of the plates, and am unsure if the 07 manual does. I just had the flat surface facing towards the bike.

Am posting this thread from work, will post pictures of the friction plates and metal plates with current thickness when i reach home.

[mgentz]

I the steels are blue they are burnt. Check them for warpage. Replace your springs with stronger ones from ebc or barnett.

As for orientation of the steels...just make sure they all face the same way.

[abhijitz]

So are the metal plates scoring? There is a slight tint of blue but not really deep.

[abhijitz]

First 2 pictures are new friction plates, Last 2 pictures are current friction plates ... they seem Ok.

new friction plate thickness = 3.01mm
current friction plate thickness = 2.95mm [min spec = 2.92mm]

[abhijitz]

Look carefully at the edges. Notice how the edges are smooth and roundish in first picture, while in second picture it is flat. So which side should be facing towards the bike? I have it set as the smooth/roundish side facing the installer (i.e me) and the flat/sharp side facing towards the bike.

[Racer x]

Steels looks good . Just check them for warpage. The fri took plates look OK. Was this slipping?

[abhijitz]

No warpage, i verified that. Ya, it was slipping but again i was riding a long time (over an hour) at a stretch at 100+ weather. It was an open trackday.

Originally Posted by Racer x

Steels looks good . Just check them for warpage. The fri took plates look OK. Was this slipping?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by abhijitz

Look carefully at the edges. Notice how the edges are smooth and roundish in first picture, while in second picture it is flat. So which side should be facing towards the bike?.......

I don't think that it matters, as long as the old ones return to their old position respect to the interior guides and are flat.

The round shape is just result of the manufacturing process: they are press cut and the round is nothing but the metal stretching before being sheared off the original sheet plate.
The surface of the second picture is too rough, in my opinion.
For good friction and progressive feeling, all the surfaces should be smooth.

The coloration and the slippage show an overheating problem.

[mgentz]

^werd

[abhijitz]

Dont worry about the 2nd pic of the metal plate in post #5. It is a brand new plate. It is not rough. It is just the residue material in the yellow packaging as it comes from the factory coated with oil (?) i think .. it just dried a bit as it has been my spare kit for a while. i will coat all of these in oil and store them.

Originally Posted by Motofool

The surface of the second picture is too rough, in my opinion. For good friction and progressive feeling, all the surfaces should be smooth.

which picture are you referring to? in #3 post?

Originally Posted by Motofool

The coloration and the slippage show an overheating problem.

lol, to what?

Originally Posted by mgentz

^werd

[abhijitz]

Ok - i had my contact verify the orientation of metal plates with a Kawasaki rep. The flat edge goes towards the bike and smooth/roundish edge towards the installer [which is where i was set at].

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by abhijitz

......which picture are you referring to? in #3 post?

No picture in particular, just referring to the description of your problem.

Transfer of high torque during slippage can generate a lot of heat among the discs and surrounding oil.
Medium-carbon steel turns blue around 575°F (302°F).
Remember that the oil is shared with the engine and tranny, which like cooler and more viscous oil than that.

[abhijitz]

So, i ran with 2 washers underneath the bolt for a slightly higher preload. It worked fine during the last trackday at Laguna. Awaiting the Barnett springs to get delivered.