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Old August 23rd, 2013, 10:37 AM   #1
bitaria
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Ninja 250 racer build thread

Bodywork showed up so it's time to start. So far front fender is on and I was working on re-organizing the tail when it was time to end for the night.







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Old August 25th, 2013, 09:31 AM   #2
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Old August 25th, 2013, 10:22 AM   #3
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Old August 25th, 2013, 02:25 PM   #4
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It's moving along. All the extra bits are gone, just taking my time figuring out where wiring will go.
Tail section mounting holes on top don't correspond to anything on the subframe, so it's mounted on 2 hard points for now. I see custom bracket in the future. Would not be so hard if I wasn't planning on keeping the bike at least technically speaking street legal, so no permanent modifications to hard parts and have to leave room for turn signals etc. to Velcro back on.




Kickstand bracket has to go or bodywork needs to be cut to make room.



Wiring... going into the tail section at some point.
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Old August 25th, 2013, 02:31 PM   #5
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Cut the kickstand mount tab, it's just gunna cause a crash anyway. If your cut is clean, it can be welded back on easy enough. I am not even going hard in the pic below.
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Old August 25th, 2013, 02:45 PM   #6
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Yup, it's going away soon. Plan is to fab something up to use a swingarm mounted kickstand or bolt it up using rearset mounting holes. Something that will be easy to remove for track days and slap back on after. For now the lower fairing will stay off the bike, not like I'm going to be riding it much for the next 7 month or so

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Cut the kickstand mount tab, it's just gunna cause a crash anyway. If your cut is clean, it can be welded back on easy enough. I am not even going hard in the pic below.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:36 AM   #7
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Is there a consensus on keeping black plastic side panels and undertail tray?
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Old August 26th, 2013, 11:07 AM   #8
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Is there a consensus on keeping black plastic side panels and undertail tray?
I kept both on my bike. The undertail to help contain everything and keep the tail section from bouncing too much. The side pannels for no snags when hanging on with my knees and also an additional mounting point for the tail...if I recall.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 11:08 AM   #9
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Oh and I had to trim the lower to clear the exhaust mid pipe.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 11:09 AM   #10
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How did you mount the tail section? There are 2 points around where the seat fits, but the back of it seems to not match up to anything on the subframe.

I was going to route wiring into the sides of the tail and keep it covered up there. The only problem I see is in a wet race getting water up there.

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I kept both on my bike. The undertail to help contain everything and keep the tail section from bouncing too much. The side pannels for no snags when hanging on with my knees and also an additional mounting point for the tail...if I recall.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 11:47 AM   #11
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How did you mount the tail section? There are 2 points around where the seat fits, but the back of it seems to not match up to anything on the subframe.

I was going to route wiring into the sides of the tail and keep it covered up there. The only problem I see is in a wet race getting water up there.


There is a lower lip on either side that has the ability to be bolted to the stock undertail. Hense another reason to keep the undertail.


The two indents on the top of the tail are for race subframes only.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 01:22 PM   #12
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Good to know!
Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxrider64 View Post


There is a lower lip on either side that has the ability to be bolted to the stock undertail. Hense another reason to keep the undertail.


The two indents on the top of the tail are for race subframes only.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:31 PM   #13
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Front wheel from ebay showed up along with a few other things. First the good:
Yoshimura sent over a new header and mid-pipe - awesome.
Brake and clutch levers came in, they look good for the money paid.


Now the bad - front wheel from eBay has a bend in it. Seller said it will not effect tire mounting, but it looks substantial, or is it? Can I heat it up and hummer it out?
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:47 PM   #14
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The wheel will be fine yo.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 08:27 PM   #15
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The wheel will be fine yo.
There is also a flat spot on the underside of the lip...
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Old August 26th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #16
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Why you no trust me? I offer up my own front wheel as an example.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 09:52 PM   #17
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If its brand new cant you just return it? Maybe it's ok but if you paid for a new part you should get a new, undamaged part.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 07:07 AM   #18
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It is used from eBay... but I can return it if I pay shipping back.
I'm finding out what it would take to fix the rim, but will probably send it back.

The lip is bent out, but in addition to that inside radius isn't round.

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If its brand new cant you just return it? Maybe it's ok but if you paid for a new part you should get a new, undamaged part.
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Old August 29th, 2013, 07:37 AM   #19
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Full Yoshimura system installed - big thanks to guy over there for sending me the parts needed to make slip-on into a full system. It looks and fits awesome.



Upper is mostly on too, haven't drilled the windscreen, not sure how to mount that general area, trying to keep brackets to a minimum. I really miss my R6 with race fairing stay, the entire upper was mounted on 6 DZUS fasteners, with the Ninja and stock mounting points DZUS don't fit without modifications.
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Old August 29th, 2013, 11:16 AM   #20
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what did you use for the exhaust slider?
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Old August 29th, 2013, 12:23 PM   #21
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what did you use for the exhaust slider?
i'm also curious about your exhaust slider. more pics/info please? is it just dense plastic wrapped around the can?
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Old August 29th, 2013, 03:13 PM   #22
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what did you use for the exhaust slider?
http://www.mufflerslider.com/

I've had good luck with them on another bike and had one in the toolbox, happens to match color too.
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Old August 29th, 2013, 03:16 PM   #23
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Dashboard showed up today in the mail. $91 shipped from eBay, can't go wrong with it.


Installation instructions are here, nice that someone did homework for me! @skilletmo
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=129394
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Old August 29th, 2013, 03:22 PM   #24
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Dashboard showed up today in the mail. $91 shipped from eBay, can't go wrong with it.


Installation instructions are here, nice that someone did homework for me! @skilletmo
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=129394
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Old August 29th, 2013, 04:55 PM   #25
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Full Yoshimura system installed - big thanks to guy over there for sending me the parts needed to make slip-on into a full system. It looks and fits awesome.



Upper is mostly on too, haven't drilled the windscreen, not sure how to mount that general area, trying to keep brackets to a minimum. I really miss my R6 with race fairing stay, the entire upper was mounted on 6 DZUS fasteners, with the Ninja and stock mounting points DZUS don't fit without modifications.
Didn't read any of the posts but is it just me or does the rear look like it's been lowered?

If so, you may want to raise it back up.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 03:59 AM   #26
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another Vapor user - sweet. I need to get me one
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Old August 30th, 2013, 08:51 AM   #27
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It is lowered by prev. owner. Waiting for parts to raise it back (shock, linkage etc.)


Quote:
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Didn't read any of the posts but is it just me or does the rear look like it's been lowered?

If so, you may want to raise it back up.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 08:54 AM   #28
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another Vapor user - sweet. I need to get me one
For the price and almost plug-and-play compatibility... on a race bike makes for a much better dash than stock cluster. Cleans up the front end well.
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Old October 31st, 2013, 07:00 AM   #29
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Finally made a bit of progress.

GSXR shock is here and drilled out to fit the Ninja.

After much consideration I went with eBay / made in China rear sets, Sato copy. To mitigate spares shipping delay I got 2 sets, so one full rear set will go into the spares bin.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ0MFgxNj...5Yw~~60_57.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261284104013...T0%26ga4m%3DT1

Still need to resolve the clip-ons question, actually considering a set from eBay as well. With rear sets there were many reviews on quality, so I felt ok getting them, but can't find much on clip-ons. Any thoughts? (looking for some actual experiences rather than "boo made in china sux boo".


Edit: at least one data point that says eBay clip ons are fine http://www.reddit.com/r/250r/comment...ons_from_ebay/

Last futzed with by bitaria; November 4th, 2013 at 05:06 PM.
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Old November 6th, 2013, 03:27 PM   #30
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Rear sets came today, that was incredibly fast shipping! They look great. Fit and finish is good they even have roller bearings.

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Old November 6th, 2013, 04:17 PM   #31
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This was in the box with the rearset, what is IT?

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Old November 6th, 2013, 04:50 PM   #32
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looks like a reed switch for the rear brake pedal
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Old November 6th, 2013, 05:03 PM   #33
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looks like a reed switch for the rear brake pedal
Yea figured it out a minute ago. This replaced one of the washers on the brake line and is brake fluid pressure activated.
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Old November 7th, 2013, 08:50 PM   #34
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Found an issue while installing the shift side rearset. Linkage rod does not screw in, thread is the right pitch and size, but wrong twist direction. Best case they send me a new threaded insert, worst case I make one.

Edit: looks like a few other people had this issue as well. Should be LH thread instead of "normal" RH.

Last futzed with by bitaria; November 7th, 2013 at 10:57 PM.
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Old November 20th, 2013, 07:18 AM   #35
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Quote:
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Found an issue while installing the shift side rearset. Linkage rod does not screw in, thread is the right pitch and size, but wrong twist direction. Best case they send me a new threaded insert, worst case I make one.

Edit: looks like a few other people had this issue as well. Should be LH thread instead of "normal" RH.

So both sides are threaded the same? The front piece connected to the shift rod (engine side) and the piece attached to the rear set should be different.
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Old November 20th, 2013, 08:46 AM   #36
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So both sides are threaded the same? The front piece connected to the shift rod (engine side) and the piece attached to the rear set should be different.
Nope, the rod is indeed threaded correctly, RH on one end and LH on the other. Where they screwed up is with supplied hardware. One side has a ball joint and the other has a short threaded rod to re-use the stock transmission side ball. Rod is RH and ball joint is LH, should be the other way around.

Edit: Issue can be fixed by making a LH rod and purchasing a RH ball joint. I did contact the seller and was promised correct hardware, so will see. Worst case I'm out an extra $15 to purchase the right hardware myself, it is readily available.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 08:54 AM   #37
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wow those rearsets are cheap, let us know how they do one the track (and better yet on an off)
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Old November 23rd, 2013, 09:29 AM   #38
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You can use the rear holes on the tail section if you don't mind welding a couple nuts to the subframe tubes. Def. use the stk undertail for best fit and mounting help
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Old November 23rd, 2013, 09:42 AM   #39
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You can use the rear holes on the tail section if you don't mind welding a couple nuts to the subframe tubes. Def. use the stk undertail for best fit and mounting help
With all the brackets removed does the subframe still feel stiff enough?
I'm using Velcro to hold the back end of the tail section down...
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Old November 23rd, 2013, 11:19 AM   #40
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Quote:
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With all the brackets removed does the subframe still feel stiff enough?
I'm using Velcro to hold the back end of the tail section down...
Seems to be, I'm still using the one with the 4 bolts that hold it in but thats it.
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