DIY: 08 ZX-10r Cartridges Conversion

Fred659 · March 10th, 2020, 06:04 AM

Hi, First of all, let me state that this is not an easy project and I did it to learn more than anything else. I have access to a machine shop for free and I'm able to do all the work by myself. So, here we go...

I was about to order the Andreani cartridge kit when I red a thread on this forum about a guy who modify gsxr internals to fit the 08-12 250. I then recall that I had a set of perfectly functioning ZX-10r cartridges in my part bin. (I took those off when I upgraded for a set on 25mm Ohlins cartridges years ago.) I then decided that I will give it a shot and that the worst that can happen is that I fail and will end up buying a complete zx-6r front end. (Note that my 250 will be a track dedicated bike.)

I won't be specific about all the parts dimensions as you can replicate a lot of them by measuring stock parts but you must have an spring install preload of 10mm to 15mm once everything is assemble. I used the racetech .90kg/mm springs.

So now the fun stuff..

First, you need to turn the ZX-10r caps (KYB) to fit the 37mm 250 tubes. It's a tight fit as you can see, but it works. I reused the stock o-rings.

DSC_2923.jpg

DSC_2924.jpg

DSC_2925.jpg

Then, you have to machine a cartridge Male / Female rod extension (+/- 42mm long). The threads are M10 x 1.0. Then, a +/- 24mm long rebound rod extension (forks are about 26mm longer once done.) You also need to make a prety sturdy preload spacer (as short as possible). The Stock ZX-10r preload tabs need to be reduced in sice to fit inside the 250 tubes.

DSC_2948.jpg

DSC_2952.jpg

DSC_2959.jpg

DSC_2962.jpg

DSC_2963.jpg

_20200308_163329.jpg

I also had to turn the top part of the cartrisge to +/- 19mm to capture de bottom of the spring.

DSC_2970.jpg

Lets now attack the bottom end. The ZX-10r cartridges have a M10 x 1.0 thread and you need a M8 x 1.25 to match the 250. So you'll need a adapter for that. I used red lock-tite to be sure that the part stays in. Also, as the 250 doesn't have a compression adjuster, you need to build one in the M8 hex screw. I used a SS 8-32 screw that I machine to act as a needle. The M8 Hex screw need to be drilled trough, then drilled and tap, then a part of the threads need to be removed and then cross drilled to let the oil escape. (it's the hardest part as parts are so small). You also need to drill an oil port in the base of the cartridge.

DSC_2960.jpg

DSC_2965.jpg

DSC_2967.jpg

DSC_2971.jpg

DSC_2974.jpg

And now the fun part, the assembly. I used blue lock-tite for the needle screw (WARNING: be sure to loosen the screw to assure that you can adjust it before assembly, I did this mistake). The purpose is to avoid oil leak, not the strong bound. Also if the needle is in tight, the fork won't compress so you need to test as you assemble. Then everything goes as usual. I put 108 mm as a level of 5w oil in the fork. Set the rebound adjuster to 14 clicks in, bottom it to the rod (stop as soon as it bottom to avoid damage.

I use a clip on to pull on the tube to set the cap in using my fork compression tool. it ease the clip insertion process a lot

DSC_2976.jpg

DSC_2977.jpg

DSC_2981.jpg

DSC_2961.jpg

So I hope it will help someone in the future and feel free to ask questions.

I will report on them when I try it in June.

Thanks

DannoXYZ · March 10th, 2020, 11:06 AM

Awesome work

! Thank you for the DIY guide!

JFMNINJA400 · March 10th, 2020, 04:53 PM

Wow looking forward to hear how it feels on the track! Awesome work!

Fred659 · March 10th, 2020, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Awesome work

! Thank you for the DIY guide!

No problem. I found so much info in here that I taught that I could comtribute a little.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFMNINJA400

Wow looking forward to hear how it feels on the track! Awesome work!

Me to. I have a small twisty racetrack near me and my 10r was too much of a bike for that track. I have the gsx shock also and can't wait to see if I can overtake some 600-1000cc bike on the brake hahahahah.

As I recall, the 3rd gen 10r have a prety solid front end. I'm curious if it will transfer to the 250. the stock suspension just doesn't work for me on the track.

JFMNINJA400 · March 11th, 2020, 07:42 AM

I am looking forward to trying my 250 at 2 very twisty track this season. NYST and Shenandoah! The smaller bikes are so much fun at the twisty/technical tracks. I have done Race Tech .90 springs, heavier wet fork oil and pre load adjusters on both my 250 and 400. The 400 feels awesome on the track, haven’t tracked the 250 yet, just got in late Oct!

March 10th, 2020, 06:04 AM	#1
Fred659 ninjette.org member Name: Frederic Location: Quebec City Join Date: Jan 2020 Motorcycle(s): 08 Race Prepped ZX-10r, 09 Race Prepped Ninja 250 (300 motor). 74 Norton Commando 850 (Project) Posts: 54	DIY: 08 ZX-10r Cartridges Conversion Hi, First of all, let me state that this is not an easy project and I did it to learn more than anything else. I have access to a machine shop for free and I'm able to do all the work by myself. So, here we go... I was about to order the Andreani cartridge kit when I red a thread on this forum about a guy who modify gsxr internals to fit the 08-12 250. I then recall that I had a set of perfectly functioning ZX-10r cartridges in my part bin. (I took those off when I upgraded for a set on 25mm Ohlins cartridges years ago.) I then decided that I will give it a shot and that the worst that can happen is that I fail and will end up buying a complete zx-6r front end. (Note that my 250 will be a track dedicated bike.) I won't be specific about all the parts dimensions as you can replicate a lot of them by measuring stock parts but you must have an spring install preload of 10mm to 15mm once everything is assemble. I used the racetech .90kg/mm springs. So now the fun stuff.. First, you need to turn the ZX-10r caps (KYB) to fit the 37mm 250 tubes. It's a tight fit as you can see, but it works. I reused the stock o-rings. DSC_2923.jpg DSC_2924.jpg DSC_2925.jpg Then, you have to machine a cartridge Male / Female rod extension (+/- 42mm long). The threads are M10 x 1.0. Then, a +/- 24mm long rebound rod extension (forks are about 26mm longer once done.) You also need to make a prety sturdy preload spacer (as short as possible). The Stock ZX-10r preload tabs need to be reduced in sice to fit inside the 250 tubes. DSC_2948.jpg DSC_2952.jpg DSC_2959.jpg DSC_2962.jpg DSC_2963.jpg _20200308_163329.jpg I also had to turn the top part of the cartrisge to +/- 19mm to capture de bottom of the spring. DSC_2970.jpg Lets now attack the bottom end. The ZX-10r cartridges have a M10 x 1.0 thread and you need a M8 x 1.25 to match the 250. So you'll need a adapter for that. I used red lock-tite to be sure that the part stays in. Also, as the 250 doesn't have a compression adjuster, you need to build one in the M8 hex screw. I used a SS 8-32 screw that I machine to act as a needle. The M8 Hex screw need to be drilled trough, then drilled and tap, then a part of the threads need to be removed and then cross drilled to let the oil escape. (it's the hardest part as parts are so small). You also need to drill an oil port in the base of the cartridge. DSC_2960.jpg DSC_2965.jpg DSC_2967.jpg DSC_2971.jpg DSC_2974.jpg And now the fun part, the assembly. I used blue lock-tite for the needle screw (WARNING: be sure to loosen the screw to assure that you can adjust it before assembly, I did this mistake). The purpose is to avoid oil leak, not the strong bound. Also if the needle is in tight, the fork won't compress so you need to test as you assemble. Then everything goes as usual. I put 108 mm as a level of 5w oil in the fork. Set the rebound adjuster to 14 clicks in, bottom it to the rod (stop as soon as it bottom to avoid damage. I use a clip on to pull on the tube to set the cap in using my fork compression tool. it ease the clip insertion process a lot DSC_2976.jpg DSC_2977.jpg DSC_2981.jpg DSC_2961.jpg So I hope it will help someone in the future and feel free to ask questions. I will report on them when I try it in June. Thanks Last futzed with by Fred659; March 10th, 2020 at 11:27 AM. Reason: Adding pictures
	2 out of 2 members found this post helpful.

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March 10th, 2020, 11:06 AM	#2
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Awesome work ! Thank you for the DIY guide!

March 10th, 2020, 04:53 PM	#3
JFMNINJA400 ninjette.org member Name: John Location: New Windsor Join Date: Nov 2019 Motorcycle(s): GSXR 750, GSXR 600, Ninja 400, Ninja 300 Posts: 146	Wow looking forward to hear how it feels on the track! Awesome work!

March 11th, 2020, 07:42 AM	#5
JFMNINJA400 ninjette.org member Name: John Location: New Windsor Join Date: Nov 2019 Motorcycle(s): GSXR 750, GSXR 600, Ninja 400, Ninja 300 Posts: 146	I am looking forward to trying my 250 at 2 very twisty track this season. NYST and Shenandoah! The smaller bikes are so much fun at the twisty/technical tracks. I have done Race Tech .90 springs, heavier wet fork oil and pre load adjusters on both my 250 and 400. The 400 feels awesome on the track, haven’t tracked the 250 yet, just got in late Oct!