September 20th, 2019, 10:43 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Garry
Location: Bungendore Australia
Join Date: Jan 2019 Motorcycle(s): GPX250 1989 model and 1990 model Posts: 98
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Painting exhausts
I painted the exhausts on my GPX250 with VHT exhaust paint as per the instructions and was extremely disappointed with the results. The paint on the header portion failed to adhere in places, mostly on the outside of bends where the hot gasses are concentrated, and peeled off very quickly. The paint on the mufflers marked easily and chipped off without much encouragement.
At the suggestion of a friend I scraped off all the loose and damaged VHT exhaust coating and applied a chain store paint designed to be used on pot belly stoves. It looks much better as it is a semi gloss rather than a flat finish and it resists marking from my boots much better. It has not as yet burnt off the headers or chipped as did the expensive VHT coating. The stove paint does not have the heat rating of the VHT coating but then my pot belly stove has been known to glow red hot at times and the paint doesn’t peel off it. The stove paint is cheap as chips and because it is brush on it doesn’t require masking or removal of the system. I thinned it down with turpentine as per the instructions on the tin and it went on nice and smooth in three coats. Time will tell if it lasts long term but has surpassed the expensive VHT paint already! Anyway just a suggestion
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Perpetua Culpa Alterna Vagus |
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September 21st, 2019, 10:59 AM | #2 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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Which VHT did you try? I've had good results with the stuff they call "Flame Proof", but the curing process isn't trivial. If you just spray it on and go riding it's not likely to cure properly. I've had it on my 250's head pipes for several years now with only minor touch-ups needed where it's gotten scraped on something.
Good old stove/header paint always works OK, but it does tend to chalk off a bit. |
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September 21st, 2019, 02:32 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Kevin
Location: Stockton California
Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250R Posts: 362
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My factory muffler's paint (2012 models have a painted muffler) was looking a little chalky, so I removed and sanded the muffler lightly with #400 wet paper. I repainted it with black "barbecue" paint, I believe from either Krylon or Rust-Oleum. It was a perfect match to the original shade and texture, and it seems much more durable than the original finish. I did let it dry for over a week though, mainly because I had painted it in cooler weather. You might wish to try one of those brands. Plus, they're cheaper that VHT. I may remove the header pipes in the future and do them also.
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September 21st, 2019, 03:40 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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I've had good results with SwainTech's White Lightning ceramic coating. They can do them inside & out for complete insulation of the metal tubing. Have survived turbo applications very well where header actually glowed red under full-throttle.
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April 23rd, 2021, 06:05 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Miguel
Location: MA
Join Date: Jan 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2000 EX-250; several other years of the same Posts: 470
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I have repeatedly had great success with Rustoleum BBQ paint. One can provides about 5 coats on the entire exhaust. It lasts for years.
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... can't stop updating the bike! |
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April 23rd, 2021, 04:28 PM | #6 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Most adhesion failure (peeling) can be traced to inadequate surface prep. A shiny or chrome surface doesn't give the paint enough mechanical adhesion, and the paint will delaminate.
Best prep is media blasting. Not aggressive enough to rip off any adhered chrome, but aggressive enough to frost the metal or plating. Then it needs to be cleaned. Many metal prep products will not withstand high heat, so washing liberally with denatured alcohol is probably a good choice. Don't wipe a blasted surface with a rag, or it will deposit lint. I've used VHT High Heat Paint, and didn't care for it. Very flat and chalky. Turned brown-ish eventually. My favorite is Rustoleum High Heat Ultra - https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...gh-heat-ultra/ It's a semi-gloss black, covers well, and seems to hold-up better than others I've tried. They also make it in silver. Professional ceramic coating is the best, but needs to be done professionally and is rather costly. |
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