Suggestions for a better option to stock shift linkage.

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 05:32 AM

Hey peeps,

Need some suggestions on a better shift linkage than the stock unit. I was on the highway yesterday and the linkage broke at the pedal where the ball joint attaches to the pedal. The metal is just a thin rod that looks pressed in (6mm at most).

I think the reason its broken is that i've been using clutchless upshifts a lot over the last few thousand miles and the pre-loading of the shifter seems to have overstressed the metal and it sheared over time. My neighbour volunteered to weld the ball joint to the shifter pedal so hopefully it's a lot stronger as the face of the ball joint is larger and the weld area should be large enough to provide a much stronger joint.

However if this fails again I will need to replace the assembly (pedal and balljoint as one piece) but I don't want to go back to the stock unit as it will fail again likely.

choneofakind · August 2nd, 2012, 05:50 AM

Would aftermarket rearsets fix your issue? I'm sorry for not having a definite answer, but I'm having trouble visualizing the break.
Posted via Mobile Device

Redgeneral · August 2nd, 2012, 06:21 AM

Aftermarket Rearsets would definitely solve your problem. There's a couple cheaper options but they'll still cost you ~$150-~200 new.

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 06:30 AM

choneofakind, take a look at the linkage at shift pedal end. If you peel back the rubber on the ball joint take a look at what physically connects the ball joint to the shift pedal. Its a shaft from the ball joint that's maybe 3mm at best and it's pressed into the shift pedal. It's that shaft that sheared right at the pedal.
The replacement will be a new pedal with the ball joint attached. The strange thing is that where the shaft enters the ball joint the metal is maybe 8mm wide. They just needed to join that to the shifter pedal for a much stronger connection. It looks like the joint and shaft were spun from the same bit of metal, probably cheaper than using a better ball joint.

My neighbour is a partner in a business that makes a product called the "Shredder" and he says he has ball joints of the same size that are way stronger and never need lubrication. Btw, he is also the inventor of the "Shredder", check the vids on youtube, i'm dying to take it for a ride.

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redgeneral

Aftermarket Rearsets would definitely solve your problem. There's a couple cheaper options but they'll still cost you ~$150-~200 new.

Yup, I guess that's the route i'll be lookng at. My neighbour will weld it which will make it stronger than the original but I need to look at a better solution for the long run. Any suggestions on a good set that has value for the money, i'm not wasting money for name and shiny bits if it actually does not add functionality or longevity.

aShifty · August 2nd, 2012, 07:07 AM

Why clutch less up shifts?

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aShifty

Why clutch less up shifts?

You mean why do I use clutchless upshifts? or why did it kill the shifter?

choneofakind · August 2nd, 2012, 08:28 AM

@ForceofWill has a nice looking set of rearsets I really like, but I can never remember what brand they are. They're cool colors and I'm pretty sure they're not as expensive as some on the market
Posted via Mobile Device

choneofakind · August 2nd, 2012, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aShifty

Why clutch less up shifts?

its faster. Less time wasted because you aren't pulling the clutch in and them reingaging. If you chop the throttle as you tap the shifter up, the engine slows enough that the transmission slips into the next gear and you're good to open it up again. Get it right and you can shave time off of a 0-60 run
Posted via Mobile Device

Motofool · August 2nd, 2012, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealt

...........Btw, he is also the inventor of the "Shredder", check the vids on youtube, i'm dying to take it for a ride.

Any YouTube link?

This is the first time that I learn about this failure; I would replace the part with the original one.

Check that the linkage can be rotated for any position of the lever after the adjustment is finished; otherwise, additional torsional stress on the mechanism will be introduced at each shifting.

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

its faster. Less time wasted because you aren't pulling the clutch in and them reingaging. If you chop the throttle as you tap the shifter up, the engine slows enough that the transmission slips into the next gear and you're good to open it up again. Get it right and you can shave time off of a 0-60 run
Posted via Mobile Device

++1 yup, and its a real help when chasing a bigger bike through a sweeper to maintain and increase your speed as you go through the corner without upsetting the chassis with a clutched shift.

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motofool

Any YouTube link?

This is the first time that I learn about this failure; I would replace the part with the original one.

Check that the linkage can be rotated for any position of the lever after the adjustment is finished; otherwise, additional torsional stress on the mechanism will be introduced at each shifting.

Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh2nLWYnxkM

It shouldn't stress as much because the link is stronger and the ball joint at both ends are still fully functional. I don't think I want to go back to the original. I'll be looking into a set of rearsets with a better/tougher link

cuong-nutz · August 2nd, 2012, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealt

Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh2nLWYnxkM

It shouldn't stress as much because the link is stronger and the ball joint at both ends are still fully functional. I don't think I want to go back to the original. I'll be looking into a set of rearsets with a better/tougher link

Get rid of the linkage all together and get a yami 50 shifter. 13 washintons and you have GP shift

nealt · August 2nd, 2012, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Get rid of the linkage all together and get a yami 50 shifter. 13 washintons and you have GP shift

hmmmmm....not a bad idea, just have to unlearn my old shift habits..

Redgeneral · August 2nd, 2012, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

@ForceofWill has a nice looking set of rearsets I really like, but I can never remember what brand they are. They're cool colors and I'm pretty sure they're not as expensive as some on the market
Posted via Mobile Device

They're Bohemian Racing rearsets. I have a similar set, but without the two separate colour of annodizing. Mine are all gold. They cost $195+shipping.

August 2nd, 2012, 05:32 AM	#1
nealt ninjette.org member Name: Neal Location: Toronto, Ontario Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250 Posts: 56	Suggestions for a better option to stock shift linkage. Hey peeps, Need some suggestions on a better shift linkage than the stock unit. I was on the highway yesterday and the linkage broke at the pedal where the ball joint attaches to the pedal. The metal is just a thin rod that looks pressed in (6mm at most). I think the reason its broken is that i've been using clutchless upshifts a lot over the last few thousand miles and the pre-loading of the shifter seems to have overstressed the metal and it sheared over time. My neighbour volunteered to weld the ball joint to the shifter pedal so hopefully it's a lot stronger as the face of the ball joint is larger and the weld area should be large enough to provide a much stronger joint. However if this fails again I will need to replace the assembly (pedal and balljoint as one piece) but I don't want to go back to the stock unit as it will fail again likely.

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August 2nd, 2012, 05:50 AM	#2
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Would aftermarket rearsets fix your issue? I'm sorry for not having a definite answer, but I'm having trouble visualizing the break. Posted via Mobile Device

August 2nd, 2012, 06:21 AM	#3
Redgeneral ninjette.org guru Name: Nick Location: Ontario Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250r (SOLD) - Black. 2011 ZX-6R Green/Black - 2001 Garbage Bag Green KLR650 Posts: 275	Aftermarket Rearsets would definitely solve your problem. There's a couple cheaper options but they'll still cost you ~$150-~200 new.

August 2nd, 2012, 06:30 AM	#4
nealt ninjette.org member Name: Neal Location: Toronto, Ontario Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250 Posts: 56	choneofakind, take a look at the linkage at shift pedal end. If you peel back the rubber on the ball joint take a look at what physically connects the ball joint to the shift pedal. Its a shaft from the ball joint that's maybe 3mm at best and it's pressed into the shift pedal. It's that shaft that sheared right at the pedal. The replacement will be a new pedal with the ball joint attached. The strange thing is that where the shaft enters the ball joint the metal is maybe 8mm wide. They just needed to join that to the shifter pedal for a much stronger connection. It looks like the joint and shaft were spun from the same bit of metal, probably cheaper than using a better ball joint. My neighbour is a partner in a business that makes a product called the "Shredder" and he says he has ball joints of the same size that are way stronger and never need lubrication. Btw, he is also the inventor of the "Shredder", check the vids on youtube, i'm dying to take it for a ride.

August 2nd, 2012, 07:07 AM	#6
aShifty ninjette.org member Name: Armin Location: St. Louis Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 82	Why clutch less up shifts?

August 2nd, 2012, 08:28 AM	#8
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	@ForceofWill has a nice looking set of rearsets I really like, but I can never remember what brand they are. They're cool colors and I'm pretty sure they're not as expensive as some on the market Posted via Mobile Device