Engine Noise, Cam Chain Tensioner Problem? Pics And Video

[az3200]

Hey all. So I bought a 2002 ninja 250 at 27k miles, it now has 33.5k. It hasn't had a valve adjustment in this time, which i want to do soon. Recently I've been noticing (or just becoming paranoid) that my engine is making this rattling buzzing noise. Maybe it's the cam chain tensioner? I watched a video on youtube of someone who had a bike that sounds just like mine, cleaned the tensioner, and sounds much different. well I did that today and the end results were the same sound.

Here's some things I found though: It was COMPLETELY filthy with black sludge.









Also, the little phillips head screw that seems to be the retaining screw was unbelievably tight. So tight that I wound up stripping the head without it budging one bit...So i put it back together kind of backwards. Would this make a huge difference? I plan on buying a new oem screw and drilling the old one out. Problem is this bike is my only vehicle at the moment.


Anyway, what do you guys think? here is a quick video of the bike running and being reved. Sorry i didn't let it idle at all. I can take another video if need be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rsg5UpqLdY

let me know what you think. Thanks for any input.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

...........Also, the little phillips head screw that seems to be the retaining screw was unbelievably tight. So tight that I wound up stripping the head without it budging one bit...So i put it back together kind of backwards. Would this make a huge difference?.........

Yes, it makes all the difference; so much, that you should not run the engine anymore until you install it properly.

You are over-stressing that old chain now.
If it snaps, the engine will destroy itself in no time.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cam_cha...sioner_removal

The black grease was good for the tensioner; hope that you cleaned and added fresh grease.

The correct way of doing things is:
1) Servicing the valves
2) Measuring condition of the cam chain
3) Verifying condition of both chain guides
4) Servicing the tensioner
5) Verifying that the chain is under tension before closing the valves' area.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Yes, it makes all the difference; so much, that you should not run the engine anymore until you install it properly.

You are over-stressing that old chain now.
If it snaps, the engine will destroy itself in no time.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cam_cha...sioner_removal

The black grease was good for the tensioner; hope that you cleaned and added fresh grease.

The correct way of doing things is:
1) Servicing the valves
2) Measuring condition of the cam chain
3) Verifying condition of both chain guides
4) Servicing the tensioner
5) Verifying that the chain is under tension before closing the valves' area.

did you listen to my bike? does it sound terrible?
I will try to do what you say by not riding it, but like i said it's my only for of transportation. I ended up putting another 50miles or so on it yesterday after this. I'm ordering a new screw now. $.23 and $6.95 to ship lol


I didn't grease the CCT after I put it back. I read from ninja.faq that it can be put back together either way...
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cam_cha...sioner_removal

[greg737]

Also, the little phillips head screw that seems to be the retaining screw was unbelievably tight. So tight that I wound up stripping the head without it budging one bit...

one possible correction to your post would read something like this: "Also, the little JIS head screw..."

It has been proven (by more than a few EX-250 owners) that an American Phillips Head screwdriver is the perfect weapon of mass destruction when it comes to JIS screws.

JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard

[az3200]

Originally Posted by greg737

one possible correction to your post would read something like this: "Also, the little JIS head screw..."

It has been proven (by more than a few EX-250 owners) that an American Phillips Head screwdriver is the perfect weapon of mass destruction when it comes to JIS screws.

JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard

Hmm, I honestly never even knew there was a difference. In the future I'll know to only use a JIS phillips head.

[greg737]

also... have you ruled out the old EX-250 clutch lever rattle? It's quite common.

or... there's also the possibility of clutch basket rattle, which isn't as common as the clutch lever rattle but can be easily ruled out by a simple test as described in the ninja250.org FAQ section, Clutch and Transmission section.

[greg737]

a very good and easily sourced substitute for a JIS screwdriver is, believe it or not, a small sized drywall screwdriver bit (Home Depot, or similar type store).

The drywall driver bit profile is so similar to the JIS profile that you'll never strip out another one.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

did you listen to my bike? does it sound terrible?
...........I didn't grease the CCT after I put it back. I read from ninja.faq that it can be put back together either way...

Yes !!!
I could be valves, though.

Don't need waiting for that little screw.
You could buy it at PepBoys or HomeDepot: it is a M5X8 mm (Not sure is fine or normal thread).
You may be able to push the stub all the way drilling it in with a small drill bit.

Even if you don't find a screw, you could hold the plunge in the top position with some small wire, have a friend bolt the case all the way down and then, release the plunge.

The problem with what you did is that the plunge was all the way down, with no chance to return back up (if the ratcheting mechanism is still good) and the bolts of the case forced it against the chain, over-stressing it.

If you noticed no resistance from those bolts, then, the ratcheting is not working properly, which may be the cause of the noise.

See related threads:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=107681

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ight=tensioner

I prefer lubrication.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Yes !!!
I could be valves, though.

Don't need waiting for that little screw.
You could buy it at PepBoys or HomeDepot: it is a M5X8 mm (Not sure is fine or normal thread).
You may be able to push the stub all the way drilling it in with a small drill bit.

Even if you don't find a screw, you could hold the plunge in the top position with some small wire, have a friend bolt the case all the way down and then, release the plunge.

The problem with what you did is that the plunge was all the way down, with no chance to return back up (if the ratcheting mechanism is still good) and the bolts of the case forced it against the chain, over-stressing it.

If you noticed no resistance from those bolts, then, the ratcheting is not working properly, which may be the cause of the noise.

See related threads:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=107681

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ight=tensioner

I prefer lubrication.

yikes, 3 exclamation marks...
Too late I already ordered the oem screw from bikebandit.. But there is a Lowes and Pep Boys 1.5 miles away from my house, and this bike is my only vehicle. I might be taking a walk later..

What do you recommend I do in my spare time problem to remedy the way my bike sounds. Please know I'm working with VERY limited budget but do have most tools needed to complete the job (except a JIS screw driver :P ) I think the only tool I'll need for a valve adjustment are the feeler gauges. The bike has I bought it at 27k ...have put 6k on it myself and I'm worried a valve adjustment is LONG overdue. for what it's worth, the bike still rides ok, and will get up to 100mph..

Would you still recommend the 4 steps you listed previously before I start putting miles back on this bike?

"1) Servicing the valves
2) Measuring condition of the cam chain
3) Verifying condition of both chain guides
4) Servicing the tensioner
5) Verifying that the chain is under tension before closing the valves' area"

Are these the main reasons of the way the bike sounds? What else could be a culprit?

[az3200]

Originally Posted by greg737

a very good and easily sourced substitute for a JIS screwdriver is, believe it or not, a small sized drywall screwdriver bit (Home Depot, or similar type store).

The drywall driver bit profile is so similar to the JIS profile that you'll never strip out another one.

Thanks, I think I might be going to lowes today. I'll look for one there

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

.........I think the only tool I'll need for a valve adjustment are the feeler gauges
...............for what it's worth, the bike still rides ok, and will get up to 100mph
.............Would you still recommend the 4 steps you listed previously before I start putting miles back on this bike?
...........Are these the main reasons of the way the bike sounds? What else could be a culprit?

You will need a long 9 mm socket and a small long screwdriver that fits inside the socket.

You will need a socket and racket to turn the engine (only clockwise).

You will need a torque wrench for the nuts of the rockers.

The reason for valve adjustments is avoiding valve's seats burn outs.
That stuck bolt means no much service has been done before.

Yes, those steps go naturally together and cost nothing.

Nothing else should cause that sound, except some broken part.
The clutch is noisy at idle, but not at high rpms'.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

If you plan on keeping this bike a while I would definitely recommend the kawi tool for the rocker arms. Makes the job much less of a PITA. $50 from what I recall.....Maybe you could rent it from someone.

[az3200]

Thanks to Motofool, I was able to aquire a screw that would work, thanks for the part number



Now I put it back together the way it was supposed to (or how i watched it done on youtube) I was worried the whole time that this wasn't going to help the sound, and I don't think it did. Here is a video I just too after putting the CCT back on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOqYmMUMQLg

So does it still sound nasty to you guys? Next is going to be a valve adjustment, maybe tomorrow. Looks like all I will need is a socket extension and the feeler gauges.

Also, now that the CCT is properly in place, would it be ok to put a few miles on it before doing a valve adjustment?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

..........Also, now that the CCT is properly in place, would it be ok to put a few miles on it before doing a valve adjustment?

Great !

The sound is still very loud and high pitch.

You could ride on the slow side and being smooth on the gear switching.
Pull the clutch in as soon as you hear something weird.

These threads show some possible related problems:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ht=V5UmHZZTRv0

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ht=V5UmHZZTRv0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5UmHZZTRv0

[n4mwd]

The video sounds mostly normal. Try this test:

1) Get on bike, front brake tight, clutch in, start, first gear.
2) Let out clutch ever so slightly so that it tugs against the brake.
3) Does it make the ticking sound go away?

If so, then its the clutch basket and should be ignored. There is nothing you can do for it. The clutch basket has rubber bushings in it that decompose and cause the ticking.

If the problem is rod knock, he noise will get worse or stay the same.

Yes, you should definitely do your valves. However, be extremely careful when tightening the rocker nuts. If you overtorque them, you WILL DESTROY your engine - as in - New engine needed.

BTW, sears (not kmart) has a good bent feeler gauge set for about $10. Make sure you get one that goes small enough for the tolerances needed. Harbor Freight also sells one for about $3 that has all the smaller sizes, but is not bent. And finally, set the valve gaps on the wide side of tolerance. If you set in the middle or on the tight side, you'll end up having to do it again very soon. The gaps get smaller, not wider, as the engine wears.

You were lucky when you ran it with the cam chain tensioner improperly installed. Had your timing chain skipped a tooth, you could have been looking for a new engine. Not good.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

The video sounds mostly normal. Try this test:

1) Get on bike, front brake tight, clutch in, start, first gear.
2) Let out clutch ever so slightly so that it tugs against the brake.
3) Does it make the ticking sound go away?

If so, then its the clutch basket and should be ignored. There is nothing you can do for it. The clutch basket has rubber bushings in it that decompose and cause the ticking.

If the problem is rod knock, he noise will get worse or stay the same.

Yes, you should definitely do your valves. However, be extremely careful when tightening the rocker nuts. If you overtorque them, you WILL DESTROY your engine - as in - New engine needed.

BTW, sears (not kmart) has a good bent feeler gauge set for about $10. Make sure you get one that goes small enough for the tolerances needed. Harbor Freight also sells one for about $3 that has all the smaller sizes, but is not bent. And finally, set the valve gaps on the wide side of tolerance. If you set in the middle or on the tight side, you'll end up having to do it again very soon. The gaps get smaller, not wider, as the engine wears.

You were lucky when you ran it with the cam chain tensioner improperly installed. Had your timing chain skipped a tooth, you could have been looking for a new engine. Not good.

I tried what you suggested with the clutch. The noise doesn't go away. It's not really a ticking or knocking, more of a rattling buzz type sound when i roll on the throttle. I can't really tell if it's louder or quieter when i'm riding, too much wind.

I'm going to attempt my first valve adjustment tomorrow. Can I find decent feeler gauges at advanced auto parts or auto zone? I was at lowes today and they didn't have any.

[az3200]

now i have a question. I've just watched two videos on youtube explaining how to do a valve adjustment which is correct?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0TDA26zgJo

or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYLUjaxOYaY

At what cam lobe position do you use the feeler gauges?

[fr1dayn1ght]

Hi sorry for asking, I just recorded my engine noise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw1Ig...ature=youtu.be

Does my bike have the same problem as OP? if so then I could use this thread's advices.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by az3200

I tried what you suggested with the clutch. The noise doesn't go away. It's not really a ticking or knocking, more of a rattling buzz type sound when i roll on the throttle. I can't really tell if it's louder or quieter when i'm riding, too much wind.

I'm going to attempt my first valve adjustment tomorrow. Can I find decent feeler gauges at advanced auto parts or auto zone? I was at lowes today and they didn't have any.

If it doesn't go away with the clutch test - assuming that you put enough drag on the engine that it nearly stalled - then the problem is either cam chain slap or rod knock. The only way to really tell if its the cam chain is check the actual tension when the valve cover is off. There should be virtually no slack.

This video might be useful: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5UmHZZTRv0

Sometimes the little lever (see video) gets jammed and the tensioner can't push it hard enough. What you'll need to do is remove the tensioner mechanism and then turn push on the chain (with the valve cover off) to create slack. Then use a 1/4" socket extension to push the tensioner lever down to tighten the chain back up. Then do this repeatedly until the lever moves freely.

Just be sure you don't jump a tooth when the tensioner is off because that can happen. In fact, its probably a good idea to check the chain timing before putting everything back together.

Originally Posted by az3200

now i have a question. I've just watched two videos on youtube explaining how to do a valve adjustment which is correct?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0TDA26zgJo

or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYLUjaxOYaY

At what cam lobe position do you use the feeler gauges?

Remember that you need really thin feeler gauges and most sets don't work. Harbor freight has a set that has the right sizes, but they aren't bent, but they will work. I suggest that you remove the ones you need (3 of them) from the set and then loop a string through the holes. Why? Because its too cramped to get the whole set in there and its too easy to drop them down the cam chain tunnel.

In fact, when you do the valves, I recommend putting a clean rag in the cam chain tunnel to keep stuff from falling in. If junk falling in there and you can't get it out, then you have to take the clutch cover off to get it out.

Regarding the videos, what is it about them that you feel is wrong? I didn't watch them all the way. Both of them state to turn off the petcock which is incorrect. Leave it on. If gas comes out, then you know its bad.

Originally Posted by fr1dayn1ght

Hi sorry for asking, I just recorded my engine noise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw1Ig...ature=youtu.be

Does my bike have the same problem as OP? if so then I could use this thread's advices.

Try the clutch test above and report back.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by az3200

now i have a question. I've just watched two videos on youtube explaining how to do a valve adjustment which is correct?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0TDA26zgJo

or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYLUjaxOYaY

At what cam lobe position do you use the feeler gauges?

Ok, I looked at both videos.

First off, I don't drain the coolant when I do my valves. The tube at the rear of the valve cover is a coolant line so if you remove that, coolant will come out. You should move the hose clamp mechanism on that tube to the rear side so that it doesn't interfere with getting the valve cover off.

The way that works for me is to remove the front engine mount bolt (long bolt in the front) and the two coils. Remove the radiator support bolts, but not the radiator itself (unlike the video). Just let the radiator hang from its hoses for now. Doing this gives you enough clearance to get the valve cover off and so you can work in there. The engine has two additional mounting bolts in the rear so it isn't going to fall off while you work on it.

Once the valve cover is off, the rear coolant hose can pop out if you aren't careful. Its sealed by an o-ring so some wiggling is OK as long as it doesn't come out.

When actually adjusting the valves, you need to be at TDC (top dead center). Each cylinder has a different TDC. They are marked on the flywheel (small view hole at the top) as '1|T' and '2|T'. The '|' is the actual mark which is why its there. You have to look in the hole at a flat angle to see them because they aren't directly under the hole. There is no nick in the flywheel at that point unlike the video. His was probably put there by a previous owner.

The flywheel rotates twice for every one time the cams go around. So it could say TDC when its really not. Look at the cam lobes. If they look pretty much like "\ /" then you have it at TDC. Otherwise, rotate the crank a full 360 degrees and it should be correct.

Remember, cylinder 1 is on the left side of the bike (shifter side) and #2 is on the right (brake side). You will have to move the crank when you are done with the #1 valves (4 of them). So its best to do all the valves on cylinder #1, and then all the valves of cylinder #2.

I totally recommend against just putting the lobes in a random position like the one guy did in the video. Use the marks. That is what they are for.

Lastly, and I can't stress this enough, be extremely careful when torquing the rocker arm nuts. Unfortunately, its too cramped to get a torque wrench in there. Its only about 12 ft-lbs. And that isn't much. Practice with a torque wrench in a vice to get the feel of that small of torque. If you overtorque just one of those nuts, it can set up a chain reaction that destroys the entire engine.

One video mentioned not to overtorque the valve cover bolts. While this is also important, they aren't the ones that will destroy the engine.

Oh, and one other thing. Its easy to get the rockers cocked when tightening them. This will make them be too tight when you recheck them after tightening. You should be able to wiggle the rocker with your finger a little bit. If not, then its probably cocked.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Ok, I looked at both videos.

First off, I don't drain the coolant when I do my valves. The tube at the rear of the valve cover is a coolant line so if you remove that, coolant will come out. You should move the hose clamp mechanism on that tube to the rear side so that it doesn't interfere with getting the valve cover off.

The way that works for me is to remove the front engine mount bolt (long bolt in the front) and the two coils. Remove the radiator support bolts, but not the radiator itself (unlike the video). Just let the radiator hang from its hoses for now. Doing this gives you enough clearance to get the valve cover off and so you can work in there. The engine has two additional mounting bolts in the rear so it isn't going to fall off while you work on it.

Once the valve cover is off, the rear coolant hose can pop out if you aren't careful. Its sealed by an o-ring so some wiggling is OK as long as it doesn't come out.

When actually adjusting the valves, you need to be at TDC (top dead center). Each cylinder has a different TDC. They are marked on the flywheel (small view hole at the top) as '1|T' and '2|T'. The '|' is the actual mark which is why its there. You have to look in the hole at a flat angle to see them because they aren't directly under the hole. There is no nick in the flywheel at that point unlike the video. His was probably put there by a previous owner.

The flywheel rotates twice for every one time the cams go around. So it could say TDC when its really not. Look at the cam lobes. If they look pretty much like "\ /" then you have it at TDC. Otherwise, rotate the crank a full 360 degrees and it should be correct.

Remember, cylinder 1 is on the left side of the bike (shifter side) and #2 is on the right (brake side). You will have to move the crank when you are done with the #1 valves (4 of them). So its best to do all the valves on cylinder #1, and then all the valves of cylinder #2.

I totally recommend against just putting the lobes in a random position like the one guy did in the video. Use the marks. That is what they are for.

Lastly, and I can't stress this enough, be extremely careful when torquing the rocker arm nuts. Unfortunately, its too cramped to get a torque wrench in there. Its only about 12 ft-lbs. And that isn't much. Practice with a torque wrench in a vice to get the feel of that small of torque. If you overtorque just one of those nuts, it can set up a chain reaction that destroys the entire engine.

One video mentioned not to overtorque the valve cover bolts. While this is also important, they aren't the ones that will destroy the engine.

Oh, and one other thing. Its easy to get the rockers cocked when tightening them. This will make them be too tight when you recheck them after tightening. You should be able to wiggle the rocker with your finger a little bit. If not, then its probably cocked.

Hey thanks, I was going to say I jumped the gun by posting those two videos but you definitely gave me some useful information. After posting these videos I did more research and eventually found on faq.ninja that apparently it can be done both ways...but the members at faq.ninja prefer the "incorrect way" which would be adjusting the valves when the cam lobes are always in a up position with the bottom of the "egg" facing down. This does seem easier than finding TDC but I think I will do it the way Kawasaki recommends.

"N250RC Members' Adjustment Method
Going through this whole process of trying to find the 1T mark may be confusing. Many experienced riders say it doesn't really matter what your flywheel says, as long as the cam is not pushing down on the rocker arm when you adjust it. Turn the crank counter-clockwise until the lobes (the pointy part of the cam) are pointing up for whatever valve you're adjusting. Make sure the rocker arm is fully unloaded and the lobe surface is as far away from the rocker as it can get. Rotate the crank counter-clockwise as needed to point the lobes away from the rocker arms as you work your way through the valves. When the valve is ready for adjustment, the lobes will point up like this:..." http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is...t_procedure%3f


By the way I did see that video yesterday of the CCT in action. Great video showing what it actually does, thanks. Jeez, I wish I had watched that before I reinstalled it wrong. I hope I didn't put too much tension on the chain that it stretched it, because I did end up going about 80 miles that day...

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

.........I hope I didn't put too much tension on the chain that it stretched it, because I did end up going about 80 miles that day...

You had either a very strong cam chain or a tensioner that did not hold its ground (plunge would go up = loose chain = rattling noise) !!!

Measure the length of those links and verify that the ratcheting mechanism stops the plunge (lubrication helps there).

I agree with each D's posts above.

The mentioned DIY article contains all you need to know to do a proper valves' service.

Plan on using the whole weekend for your first time, engine must be completely cold for the valves' calibration.

[az3200]

Edit: never mind, figured it out

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

Is this suppose to be welded to the frame or sonething? I've removed the two bolts from each side but these things don't want to come off or budge? Help.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is..._to_the_valves

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Hints_%...lve_Adjustment

"You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld and remove the bracket. The cover is no harder to get out with the bracket left in place than with the bracket removed.

Consider this "optional, but not necessary". Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out, but a lot of experienced 250 mechanics say to skip it. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. And remember, it isn't really necessary."

[n4mwd]

I've heard of people doing it both ways. But when the job is done, if you put it on TDC using the marks, then you know the job was done right. If you just guessed at the cam lobe position, then you can only assume that it was done right - maybe. I ALWAYS use the marks. Not using them will save you a whole minute. But I'd spend countless hours worrying about whether it was right or not.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by Motofool

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is..._to_the_valves

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Hints_%...lve_Adjustment

"You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld and remove the bracket. The cover is no harder to get out with the bracket left in place than with the bracket removed.

Consider this "optional, but not necessary". Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out, but a lot of experienced 250 mechanics say to skip it. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. And remember, it isn't really necessary."

Thanks. Is there a reason it's welded? anyway I realized I still needed to remove the front engine mount bolt to remove them. Thanks for the replies though

[/QUOTE]I've heard of people doing it both ways. But when the job is done, if you put it on TDC using the marks, then you know the job was done right. If you just guessed at the cam lobe position, then you can only assume that it was done right - maybe. I ALWAYS use the marks. Not using them will save you a whole minute. But I'd spend countless hours worrying about whether it was right or not.[/QUOTE]

I was using this method the best I could. I had trouble stopping the flywheel on the 1|T, I have no tool to remove the spark plugs. Also, using this method, I noticed I wasn't able to get to the adjustment screws on the exhaust side..the cam lobe was facing forward not giving me enough space to adjust...

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by az3200

......I was using this method the best I could. I had trouble stopping the flywheel on the 1|T, I have no tool to remove the spark plugs.........

You cannot stop the pistons at top while fighting compression; hence, the spark plugs should be removed and replaced at this time (at least cleaned and calibrated), while the tank is removed and they are so accessible.

[n4mwd]

If you are not using the kawi tool, use a standard length 1/4" drive 9mm socket and an extension. I've heard some people say to use a deep 9mm socket, but this is just wrong.

Use the short socket on an extension to get it into place on the exhaust nuts - you will have to turn the crank a little off TDC to do this, but once its in, you can turn it back to TDC. Then you can pull the extension out, leaving the socket in place, and stick a thin screwdriver through the socket hole to turn the adjuster. Then put the extension back in to tighten.

The timing marks are plain, but you have to look at them at an angle through the hole. They are not directly under it. This is what the 2T looks like:

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Motofool

You cannot stop the pistons at top while fighting compression; hence, the spark plugs should be removed and replaced at this time (at least cleaned and calibrated), while the tank is removed and they are so accessible.

And the very best spark plug wrench for the job is conveniently included in the bike's toolkit. Seriously. I tried several, but none did the job as good.

[fr1dayn1ght]

Originally Posted by fr1dayn1ght

Hi sorry for asking, I just recorded my engine noise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw1Ig...ature=youtu.be

Does my bike have the same problem as OP? if so then I could use this thread's advices.

Hi guys just an update on my engine noise,

I went ahead and clean the cam chain tensioner like this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4eH0d2E73g and the noise disappeared
I'm very happy!

Total cost: $1.50 for the grease

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by fr1dayn1ght

Hi guys just an update on my engine noise,

I went ahead and clean the cam chain tensioner like this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4eH0d2E73g and the noise disappeared
I'm very happy!

Total cost: $1.50 for the grease

That was a good video except for the part at the end where it says to leave a gap before you release the plunger and then tighten it down the rest of the way. It should be tightened all the way down, and then released as the final step - no gaps. In the video you can hear his cams scream from being overtightened so if he doesn't fix it correctly, then he'll be needing new heads and a new cam chain soon. But everything else in the video is good info.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

That was a good video except for the part at the end where it says to leave a gap before you release the plunger and then tighten it down the rest of the way. It should be tightened all the way down, and then released as the final step - no gaps. In the video you can hear his cams scream from being overtightened so if he doesn't fix it correctly, then he'll be needing new heads and a new cam chain soon. But everything else in the video is good info.

so if my chain has too much slack, can I do it like that to get a little extra tension out of it? :P


oh and regarding that video. When you say his cams are "screaming", would that be the sound I hear when the revs start dropping...kinda like the sound a turbo would make or a jet engine winding down? lol. Just trying to differentiate the sounds and learn them

[n4mwd]

No, don't do it like he did in the video. The CCT either works or it doesn't. If you put too much pressure on the mechanism inside the engine, you could break it. Just order a new CCT from the dealer and put it on. That's really the best you can do at this point.

[az3200]

Hey guys, so two things. First an update. I've put the bike back together and have put probably about 300-400 miles or so on it. I was never able to do anything about the cam chain being loose. The engine sounds kind of buzzy, but it seems that ones it warms up, and above 5krpm it's not as noticeable? I don't really have much of a choice, it's my only transportation. I've been easy on the throttle and don't rev it much.

Second, I have another issue and wanted to see if I could resolve it here before making a new thread and clogging up the boards.

So with all the issues my bike has there's one more that's bothering me that I want to tackle.

OK, so a month ago I've noticed that (at night) when sitting in traffic the engine temp starts getting hotter (normal, i know) but with the cars behind me and in there headlights, I could see white smoke coming out of the exhausts. not much, but a little. It's weird because when the light goes green, i start moving, the bike cools down and by the next red light when i stop I look behind me and there is no smoke...until I start sitting there for a few minutes.

Now what happened last night makes me really want to figure this out. I started the bike, cold, rode to the end of my neighborhood, 1.5miles, and at the red light i look behind and there is white smoke coming out of the right exhaust, but nothing out of the left. What is the deal? It seemed like a considerable amount too. Not huge clouds, but more than I've ever noticed before.

I know my engine must burn oil. It doesn't leak yet every few weeks i need to top it off. What gives? The bike seems to ride as normal as it ever did, seems to have the same amount of power.

[n4mwd]

it sounds like you have a coolant leak into the cylinder. Your head gasket is probably bad.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

it sounds like you have a coolant leak into the cylinder. Your head gasket is probably bad.

The coolant level is still full and the oil doesn't have coolant in it.

[n4mwd]

If its blue smoke it could be oil instead. Try putting a sheet of glass (picture frame, etc.) in front of the exhaust to see if you can get some condensation. That might tell you what it is.

[az3200]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

If its blue smoke it could be oil instead. Try putting a sheet of glass (picture frame, etc.) in front of the exhaust to see if you can get some condensation. That might tell you what it is.

From what I can see I'm pretty sure it's white smoke. I've only faintly seen it during the daytime. It's noticeable at night when I'm stopped in the headlights of a car behind me.

[The_big_dill]

Might be pretty late on my reply, but white smoke usually means oil burning, not coolant.

May be your piston oil ring or your valve seals that are leaking are oil and you are burning it off in the combustion chamber.

Its not great, as you are losing power and oil, but a little extra oil won't hurt your engine. Only thing is, this will get worse...

Try doing a compression test on your cylinders.