DIY - Adjusting Valves on '08+ 250r (WITH Pictures) - Page 3

tkessler · February 26th, 2014, 03:15 PM

Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a *CRACK* which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.

Red250R · May 1st, 2014, 04:25 PM

Is this a correct shim kit for our bikes? It says it fits but i don't trust those things at all. $63 isn't too bad. Going to probably hit this up at the end of the season. Just getting things together since i have some extra money laying around.

http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve...ype=motorcycle

Bones85 · May 2nd, 2014, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red250R

Is this a correct shim kit for our bikes? It says it fits but i don't trust those things at all. $63 isn't too bad. Going to probably hit this up at the end of the season. Just getting things together since i have some extra money laying around.

http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve...ype=motorcycle

Yes. I have the same kit.

noahsark · August 4th, 2014, 09:35 PM

WORD OF CAUTION!!!

The Camshaft Chain Tensioner shouldn't be removed until AFTER you turn time countershaft, and check valve clearance. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure? I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure.

The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves."

CZroe · August 19th, 2014, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noahsark

WORD OF CAUTION!!!

The Camshaft Chain Tensioner shouldn't be removed until AFTER you turn time countershaft, and check valve clearance. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure? I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure.

The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves."

Good catch.
@Alex
This is probably important enough to ask for a mod edit.

Bobby · April 29th, 2015, 03:20 AM

Hello, when I installed the exhaust cam with the crankshaft at 2 TDC, I noticed that the end of the cam shaft opposite the sprocket does not seat on to the engine head because the lobes on cylinder 1 push it up when the sprockets marks are lined correctly. It only goes down when I tighten the cam caps. Is this what you guys experienced when installing the exhaust cam shafts? I just want to make sure that I did not position the crankshaft or cams incorrectly. Also, is a carb adjustment necessary after the valve adjustment? I don't see any thing in the service manual about this. How do you do it?

subxero · April 29th, 2015, 07:37 AM

if that cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, sounds about right

Bobby · May 2nd, 2015, 11:20 PM

Interesting. I wish I had read this before completing the entire adjustment. I positioned the cam shafts correctly (lined up the sprocket markings, identified IN and EX cams, and made sure to position the crankshaft at TDC 2 with lobes on #2 cylinder facing away from each other), but I found it impossible to seat the exhaust cam end opposite the sprocket because when I lined up the IN and EX markings with the cylinder head, the lobes on the #1 cylinder pushed against the lifters and raised the cam shaft out of position. I had no idea how to fix this problem so I just tightened the cam caps and finished the job. I have put 40 miles on the bike and it runs good. The only thing that I can think of is that the mechanic who did the job before me put the lobes in the wrong position confusing me. I don't know. What do you think? Also, it seems unlikely that a camshaft could break in half, but i don't know.

Bobby · May 2nd, 2015, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkessler

Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a *CRACK* which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.

Interesting. I wish I had read this before completing the entire adjustment. I positioned the cam shafts correctly (lined up the sprocket markings, identified IN and EX cams, and made sure to position the crankshaft at TDC 2 with lobes on #2 cylinder facing away from each other), but I found it impossible to seat the exhaust cam end opposite the sprocket because when I lined up the IN and EX markings with the cylinder head, the lobes on the #1 cylinder pushed against the lifters and raised the cam shaft out of position. I had no idea how to fix this problem so I just tightened the cam caps and finished the job. I have put 40 miles on the bike and it runs good. The only thing that I can think of is that the mechanic who did the job before me put the lobes in the wrong position confusing me. I don't know. What do you think? Also, it seems unlikely that a camshaft could break in half, but i don't know.

Bobby · May 3rd, 2015, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkessler

Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a *CRACK* which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.

Also, did you follow the tightening sequence mandated in the service manual? If not, this may have caused the shafts to snap, not improper seating of the cam journals.

Dsheumaker · December 28th, 2015, 06:48 PM

IMG_0881.jpg

If you zoom in you can see the 2T mark in this pic. Hope it helps someone

Superiorknightz · August 21st, 2017, 09:03 AM

Whats the correct clearance for all valves.
I'm confused on the number of valves, because I see the numbers on each one. But ppl call the left valve the 1st.... i'm just confused. Can someone label the valves from this pic.

Oh and I have a 2008 engine on a 1998 frame, didn't believe it until I pulled the engine head off -_-

I also can't make it 10 minutes on the highway without the ninja just wanting to die. Each time the sparkplugs are black and the tips have yellow residue on them(powder).

Thank you for any support.

Lazarus · August 21st, 2017, 01:34 PM

Starting from the camshaft sprocket and working back. The right side camshaft is the intake. The valves closest to that camshaft sprocket are cylinder #2 intake valves (2 of them per cyclinder) staying along that same camshaft but moving farther from the sprocket is cylinder #1 intake valves.

The other camshaft is the exhaust. (The one on the left in the pic) same deal. Cylinder #2 exhaust valves are closest to the camshaft sprocket. Cylinder #1 are farthest away. The red circles in that pic are the dowel pins or whatever they are called. Don't lose them when removing the valve cover or mess them up when re installing them.

Exhaust 0.22 ∼ 0.29 mm (0.0087 ∼ 0.0114 in.)
Intake: 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.)

Hope this helps!

April 29th, 2015, 03:20 AM	#86
Bobby ninjette.org newbie Name: Bobby Location: Bay area California Join Date: Apr 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250 Posts: 4	Question Hello, when I installed the exhaust cam with the crankshaft at 2 TDC, I noticed that the end of the cam shaft opposite the sprocket does not seat on to the engine head because the lobes on cylinder 1 push it up when the sprockets marks are lined correctly. It only goes down when I tighten the cam caps. Is this what you guys experienced when installing the exhaust cam shafts? I just want to make sure that I did not position the crankshaft or cams incorrectly. Also, is a carb adjustment necessary after the valve adjustment? I don't see any thing in the service manual about this. How do you do it?

April 29th, 2015, 07:37 AM	#87
subxero dirty boy Name: Joe Location: Johnstown, PA Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): I don't even know anymore?? Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '14	if that cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, sounds about right __________________________________________________ I love the smell of burning pre-mix in the morning I don't think I'm a lot dumber than you thought that I think that I thought I was once.

May 2nd, 2015, 11:20 PM	#88
Bobby ninjette.org newbie Name: Bobby Location: Bay area California Join Date: Apr 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250 Posts: 4	Cam shaft seating problem Interesting. I wish I had read this before completing the entire adjustment. I positioned the cam shafts correctly (lined up the sprocket markings, identified IN and EX cams, and made sure to position the crankshaft at TDC 2 with lobes on #2 cylinder facing away from each other), but I found it impossible to seat the exhaust cam end opposite the sprocket because when I lined up the IN and EX markings with the cylinder head, the lobes on the #1 cylinder pushed against the lifters and raised the cam shaft out of position. I had no idea how to fix this problem so I just tightened the cam caps and finished the job. I have put 40 miles on the bike and it runs good. The only thing that I can think of is that the mechanic who did the job before me put the lobes in the wrong position confusing me. I don't know. What do you think? Also, it seems unlikely that a camshaft could break in half, but i don't know.

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February 26th, 2014, 03:15 PM	#81
tkessler ninjette.org newbie Name: Topher Location: CA Join Date: Feb 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250 Posts: 6	Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a CRACK which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.

May 1st, 2014, 04:25 PM	#82
Red250R ninjette.org guru Name: Scott Location: Buffalo, NY Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 257	Is this a correct shim kit for our bikes? It says it fits but i don't trust those things at all. $63 isn't too bad. Going to probably hit this up at the end of the season. Just getting things together since i have some extra money laying around. http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve...ype=motorcycle

August 4th, 2014, 09:35 PM	#84
noahsark ninjette.org newbie Name: Noah Location: Los Angeles County Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 3	WORD OF CAUTION!!! The Camshaft Chain Tensioner shouldn't be removed until AFTER you turn time countershaft, and check valve clearance. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure? I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure. The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves."

December 28th, 2015, 06:48 PM	#91
Dsheumaker ninjette.org guru Name: David Location: Knoxville, TN Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): 14 Ninja 300 (Track Only), 07 CRF150RB Posts: 281	IMG_0881.jpg If you zoom in you can see the 2T mark in this pic. Hope it helps someone

August 21st, 2017, 01:34 PM	#93
Lazarus ninjette.org member Name: RJ Location: PA Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 210	Starting from the camshaft sprocket and working back. The right side camshaft is the intake. The valves closest to that camshaft sprocket are cylinder #2 intake valves (2 of them per cyclinder) staying along that same camshaft but moving farther from the sprocket is cylinder #1 intake valves. The other camshaft is the exhaust. (The one on the left in the pic) same deal. Cylinder #2 exhaust valves are closest to the camshaft sprocket. Cylinder #1 are farthest away. The red circles in that pic are the dowel pins or whatever they are called. Don't lose them when removing the valve cover or mess them up when re installing them. Exhaust 0.22 ∼ 0.29 mm (0.0087 ∼ 0.0114 in.) Intake: 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.) Hope this helps!