Shimming, Snorkle removal, Full exhaust systems etc. - Page 2

kkim · December 31st, 2008, 02:40 PM

7,345.00 NZD = 4,238.97 USD

So, you paid about what we are paying here for our bikes. Is that a typical price you paid or was that extra low due to the connection?

Viper-Byte · December 31st, 2008, 02:48 PM

That is the typical retail price for the bikes that anyone will get, mine was lower

. Wow, I though it would be a lot dearer than that.

kkim · December 31st, 2008, 02:51 PM

That is at today's conversion rates... it could have been a lot different when you purchased yours.

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 06:40 PM

Right, so I have decided to shim and remove the snorkel, I have got all the parts I need and I have got all panels and tank off, 3 of the 4 screws off the left side of the carb, I am having issues with the 4th, it is VERY tight and I can see that there is a high chance that I could strip it, are there any secrets to getting these out without stripping them?. If I do strip it, what are the ways to get the screw out?

I plan on replacing these with allen hex bolts as I believe these will be easier to access.

kkim · January 3rd, 2009, 06:54 PM

Press downward as hard as you can, then start applying sideways torque to unscrew. If you are using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver with nice new splines, it should come undone. Make sure you use a relatively new screwdriver. Old ones, with eaten up splines, will strip it quickly.

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 07:06 PM

OK, I was pressing down as hard as I could (arms literally shaking! Ha ha ha) and tried, the screw driver I am using is an unused screw drive that I have had for about a year.

I have even tried a little CRC right under the screw head (being sure not to get any on the head) and that has failed. Now it looks like I have stripped the screw... Great... The worst of the 2 things I didn't want to happen has happened... MURPHY!!!

Any suggestions now?

Only thing I can think of is pulling the carb out completely and drilling the screw out

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper-Byte

OK, I was pressing down as hard as I could (arms literally shaking! Ha ha ha) and tried, the screw driver I am using is an unused screw drive that I have had for about a year.

I have even tried a little CRC right under the screw head (being sure not to get any on the head) and that has failed. Now it looks like I have stripped the screw too far... Great... The worst of the 2 things I didn't want to happen has happened... MURPHY!!!

Any suggestions now?

Only thing I can think of is pulling the carb out completely and drilling the screw out

kkim · January 3rd, 2009, 07:11 PM

grab the head of the screw with a vise grip and try breaking it loose that way.

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 07:17 PM

Great idea, but I am able to get them onto the head, and twist, but they slip off and I have tried clamping them as hard as I can.

It is the screw at the front of the bike on the right (looking at while in riding position)

kkim · January 3rd, 2009, 07:23 PM

do you have an impact screwdriver... the type you hit with hammer? Sometimes the shock will loosen the screw.

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 07:34 PM

No, I do not have an impact screwdriver.

kkim · January 3rd, 2009, 08:12 PM

that might help... it's saved my a$$ many a time throughout the years, though at this point, it may be a lost cause.

BTW, you do realize the Phillip's screws are not really Phillip's screws, but some other type of head, right? there is a post in here in the tech section about the proper drivers to use, but a #2 Phillip's has always worked for me.

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 08:23 PM

In the future, it probably will help, but right now it is useless.

I did not know that... Though the #2 screwdriver went into the screw head solid.

Bike is getting put back together now... As there seems to be nothing else that will be able to get a fully stripped screw out without ripping the carbs out and drilling the screw out...

kkim · January 3rd, 2009, 08:27 PM

do you have the allens on hand to replace them with right now?

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 08:31 PM

No sadly, I do not and the hardware shop has closed for today... I was to caught up trying to get the screw out to realise they closed at 4.30

kkim · January 3rd, 2009, 08:43 PM

Sorry to hear that, but this is why I mentioned leaving a lot of time to do this (or any DIY project, for that matter)... you never know what problem you might encounter.

Viper-Byte · January 3rd, 2009, 08:49 PM

Yep, I realise that. But at this stage, I am not confident enough to take the carbs out to drill the screw out, so the only thing I can do is put everything back together.

kkim · January 4th, 2009, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

BTW, you do realize the Phillip's screws are not really Phillip's screws, but some other type of head, right? there is a post in here in the tech section about the proper drivers to use, but a #2 Phillip's has always worked for me.

found the thread...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9910

Viper-Byte · January 4th, 2009, 01:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

found the thread...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9910

Hmm, very interesting. I guess that is a good reason to swap out the screw to allen bolts

Well today has not been a fully bad day, some good has come out of it. The insurance company said that I am all good for my mods as long as the cost of the parts does not exceed 30% of the insured cost. So I shal be ordering the full AreaP long carbon in the next week or two and see how I can get this *@#%&^$ screw out of the carbs

then shim and desnorkel.

Would it be an idea to get a jet kit and install that at the same time as the AP (as it looks like I will have to take the carbs out to get the screw out) with changing the jet settings on the likes of a Dynojet kit, I assume that is the same as the stock needles and there is not need to remove the carbs?

noche_caliente · January 4th, 2009, 10:17 AM

Well, I'm a bit late chiming in - sorry I didn't see this last night - one of the tips I've read somewhere, though I'm not sure where, was to be sure to push down on the cap as the spring pushing it back up can cause it to have more pressure and make the screws nearly impossible to remove....
if you're like me you did the three easier ones first and saved the one right under the frame for last - which in addition to being hard to get to, now has more pressure from the spring underneath pushing on it....
Haven't tested this myself, but might be worth trying that one first and then the others....
Again, sorry I popped in so late

kkim · January 4th, 2009, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper-Byte

Would it be an idea to get a jet kit and install that at the same time as the AP (as it looks like I will have to take the carbs out to get the screw out) with changing the jet settings on the likes of a Dynojet kit, I assume that is the same as the stock needles and there is not need to remove the carbs?

If you are going to pull the carbs anyway, a jet kit now makes a lot of sense. One of the needs to pull the carbs to install a jet kit is so that one can adjust the mixture screws which live under tamper proof caps from the factory. If you have the carbs out anyway, that would be a perfect time to adjust them and install the jet kit. Dyno jet or Factory Pro... your choice.

Check out the DIYs in the tech section... there have been many ingenious ways people have devised to get around pulling the carbs to rejet, but in your case, to remove the that stripped screw, it seems inevitable.

Viper-Byte · January 4th, 2009, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noche_caliente

Well, I'm a bit late chiming in - sorry I didn't see this last night - one of the tips I've read somewhere, though I'm not sure where, was to be sure to push down on the cap as the spring pushing it back up can cause it to have more pressure and make the screws nearly impossible to remove....
if you're like me you did the three easier ones first and saved the one right under the frame for last - which in addition to being hard to get to, now has more pressure from the spring underneath pushing on it....
Haven't tested this myself, but might be worth trying that one first and then the others....
Again, sorry I popped in so late

Hmm, you know, that makes a lot of sense and I can see that it would actually work in theory. Note to self, loosen each screw a little at a time starting with the hard to reach ones first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

If you are going to pull the carbs anyway, a jet kit now makes a lot of sense. One of the needs to pull the carbs to install a jet kit is so that one can adjust the mixture screws which live under tamper proof caps from the factory. If you have the carbs out anyway, that would be a perfect time to adjust them and install the jet kit. Dyno jet or Factory Pro... your choice.

Check out the DIYs in the tech section... there have been many ingenious ways people have devised to get around pulling the carbs to rejet, but in your case, to remove the that stripped screw, it seems inevitable.

Yeah, though you said that with aftermarket jet kits, it takes a lot of tuning to get them right, correct? I would prefer not to have to reshim every weekend if posible, though I guess it is just how I feel the bike to be running and how I want it to run.

kkim · January 4th, 2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper-Byte

Yeah, though you said that with aftermarket jet kits, it takes a lot of tuning to get them right, correct? I would prefer not to have to reshim every weekend if posible, though I guess it is just how I feel the bike to be running and how I want it to run.

Once you get the Allens in to replace the stock crap, reshimming will be a piece of cake. Sorry that your reshimming experience has been spoiled by that stripped screw.

Viper-Byte · January 4th, 2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

Once you get the Allens in to replace the stock crap, reshimming will be a piece of cake. Sorry that your reshimming experience has been spoiled by that stripped screw.

Yeah, it has kinda put a damper on things, so bad that I have just been to a workshop to find out how much all this will be for labour... $80-90 an hour

kkim · January 4th, 2009, 06:41 PM

Don't be discouraged.

You'll work through this and will be all smiles once all the work has been completed. This will change your bike.

What would joy be without sorrow?

Viper-Byte · January 4th, 2009, 07:32 PM

It is hard not to be, though I am trying to forget about this and jump in again and get it sorted my self so I can save a good few $100

The guy at the shop said to install the exhaust and it will run fine. I said to him what about rejetting and shimming, the snorkel and Kleen air system removal (the cheaper stuff). He said it will run fine without this and there is too much time involved in all of this for the small HP gains.

kkim · January 4th, 2009, 08:02 PM

Easy for him to say as he's never ridden anything but a stock 250R, plus he's not getting any money out of you doing your own work. Sour kiwi fruit, I say.

Personally, I wouldn't trust my bike to any dealer to work on... especially one that has his attitude about this bike.

Your real reward will be when the bike is completed and you know the work was done yourself. There is a certain self satisfaction that comes with any modification made.

Recover and re energize and we'll be here to help when you pick up.

Viper-Byte · January 4th, 2009, 08:12 PM

Yeah, I know. They only have a shop model 250R which has a Yoshi can on it (not a full system) I thought he would have been trying to say yes, do this, that and the next thing and pay us 2 weeks worth of your pay

Yeah, after talking to him, has put me off going there for work.

I know about the satasfaction part of it. I am just concerned about doing something that will damage the bike and voiding the warranty, though if I take things slow and allow a lot of time to ensure I put everything back as it was I should be all good.

I have got my HID headlights on order, so I will be installing them when they arrive

GreezMunky · January 5th, 2009, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper-Byte

He said it will run fine without this and there is too much time involved in all of this for the small HP gains.

I agree with Kkim, this guy has obviously only ridden a stock 250. The night I shimmed my needles and rode my bike around the block twice, the difference was VERY noticeable. And now taking sharp low speed turns in 1st trying to keep the throttle as smooth as possible - is actually possible. Before when I was trying to make U-turns the throttle would be so choppy that I'd almost dump the bike, get frustrated, and either put my feet down and waddle around with the bike or just take the long way.

And all I've done is take out the snorkle. No aftermarket exhaust. I just wanted the extra oomph outta the bike in low speeds and I got it.

Viper-Byte · January 5th, 2009, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreezMunky

I agree with Kkim, this guy has obviously only ridden a stock 250. The night I shimmed my needles and rode my bike around the block twice, the difference was VERY noticeable. And now taking sharp low speed turns in 1st trying to keep the throttle as smooth as possible - is actually possible. Before when I was trying to make U-turns the throttle would be so choppy that I'd almost dump the bike, get frustrated, and either put my feet down and waddle around with the bike or just take the long way.

And all I've done is take out the snorkle. No aftermarket exhaust. I just wanted the extra oomph outta the bike in low speeds and I got it.

Yeah, I know, I don't believe him myself. I also know that there will be a positive difference in the bikes performance with the throttle control at low speeds and also in the high end.

On a side note, my HIDs have arrived! Woot

Viper-Byte · January 13th, 2009, 08:29 PM

An update:

I have installed the HIDs, take a look at the DIY HID Headlight Conversion thread where I have posted.

While I was installing the HIDs, I was feeling confident enough to pull out the carbs to try get the screw out, I followed a DYI on Kawiforums here and got them out, I must say that it was actually easier than what I thought, there are not nearly as many pipes and connections that need to be disconnected as what I thought. With the carbs out, I tried getting a grip on the screw with some vice grips and it came right out (I have now replaced all of the screws with allen heads, I have found they are easier to loosen on an angle and can usually unscrew them with my fingers.) While I was there, I added 2 washers under the needles and remove the snorkel, (I used 4mm washers) Put the carbs back in and everything back together, started up the bike, idle was fine, let it warm up a little and it wouldn't rev past 3000rpm and just died. With a little help from kkim, found out the 4mm washers were too bid for the spring to fully press on the needle and the needle was able to move up and down a fair distance.

I replaced the 4mm washers with 3mm ones (the size of the hole) which is 7mm in diameter (compared to the 9mm diameter of the 4mm washers) and all is fine, I have a better sounding bike which is nicer to ride

I am currently in the middle of ordering the AP Long CF full exhaust and Dyno jet 100 kit and will be installing these the weekend they arrive

kkim · January 13th, 2009, 08:35 PM

Good job, David. I know for awhile you had your doubts before you found the washer problem. Glad everything worked out.

So, with the washer mod... would you say the bike is easier to ride now?

Viper-Byte · January 13th, 2009, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

Good job, David. I know for awhile you had your doubts before you found the washer problem. Glad everything worked out.

So, with the washer mod... would you say the bike is easier to ride now?

Thanks, yes I did. But all is good now.

Yes, It is nicer and easier to ride as the power is smoother down low than what it was.

SF-Dug · January 15th, 2009, 10:36 PM

Interesting discussion here. What would be the difference between shimming and this procedure below and how would it effect the bike in stop and go situations?

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_%270...d-blooded_ogre

kkim · January 15th, 2009, 10:42 PM

Shimming will accomplish the same end result without having to pull the carbs.

It will make the bike a lot easier to ride away from a stop as the power will seem "fatter" at the lower revs.

have you read this thread?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...light=shimming

Viper-Byte · February 3rd, 2009, 11:14 AM

Right, an update

Yesterday the exhaust finally arrived, opened it up and was amazed and the look and quality of it!

Tor down the bike and added a needle to each washer (till I install the jet kit on th weekend) Installed the exhaust going by Kelly's DIY here: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10005

It was too late to test it, I didn't get much sleep, I am not sure if it is cause of the exhaust or something else...

but tested it this morning and DAMN!!!

this thing is perfect!!!!

Next step is to install the jet kit this weekend.

I had better slow down, or I will run out of mods!! Ha ha ha

g21-30 · February 3rd, 2009, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper-Byte

I had better slow down, or I will run out of mods!! Ha ha ha

Or, $$$$MONEY$$$$

kkim · February 3rd, 2009, 11:25 AM

Yes, for price, quality, performance and service, it's hard to beat Area P. Kerry's got a great thing going for our bikes.

Once you put the jet kit in, you won't run out of mods... you'll be fiddling with it constantly to get it "just right", believe me.

Viper-Byte · February 3rd, 2009, 11:53 AM

Sam, that is very true! Ha ha ha

Kelly, he certainly does. I must say that any videos I have seen just do not do the exhaust justice!

True.

noche_caliente · February 3rd, 2009, 07:06 PM

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December 31st, 2008, 02:40 PM	#41
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	7,345.00 NZD = 4,238.97 USD So, you paid about what we are paying here for our bikes. Is that a typical price you paid or was that extra low due to the connection?

December 31st, 2008, 02:48 PM	#42
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	That is the typical retail price for the bikes that anyone will get, mine was lower . Wow, I though it would be a lot dearer than that.

December 31st, 2008, 02:51 PM	#43
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	That is at today's conversion rates... it could have been a lot different when you purchased yours.

January 3rd, 2009, 06:40 PM	#44
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Right, so I have decided to shim and remove the snorkel, I have got all the parts I need and I have got all panels and tank off, 3 of the 4 screws off the left side of the carb, I am having issues with the 4th, it is VERY tight and I can see that there is a high chance that I could strip it, are there any secrets to getting these out without stripping them?. If I do strip it, what are the ways to get the screw out? I plan on replacing these with allen hex bolts as I believe these will be easier to access.

January 3rd, 2009, 06:54 PM	#45
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Press downward as hard as you can, then start applying sideways torque to unscrew. If you are using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver with nice new splines, it should come undone. Make sure you use a relatively new screwdriver. Old ones, with eaten up splines, will strip it quickly.

January 3rd, 2009, 07:06 PM	#46
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	OK, I was pressing down as hard as I could (arms literally shaking! Ha ha ha) and tried, the screw driver I am using is an unused screw drive that I have had for about a year. I have even tried a little CRC right under the screw head (being sure not to get any on the head) and that has failed. Now it looks like I have stripped the screw... Great... The worst of the 2 things I didn't want to happen has happened... MURPHY!!! Any suggestions now? Only thing I can think of is pulling the carb out completely and drilling the screw out

January 3rd, 2009, 07:11 PM	#48
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	grab the head of the screw with a vise grip and try breaking it loose that way.

January 3rd, 2009, 07:17 PM	#49
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Great idea, but I am able to get them onto the head, and twist, but they slip off and I have tried clamping them as hard as I can. It is the screw at the front of the bike on the right (looking at while in riding position)

January 3rd, 2009, 07:23 PM	#50
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	do you have an impact screwdriver... the type you hit with hammer? Sometimes the shock will loosen the screw.

January 3rd, 2009, 07:34 PM	#51
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	No, I do not have an impact screwdriver.

January 3rd, 2009, 08:12 PM	#52
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	that might help... it's saved my a$$ many a time throughout the years, though at this point, it may be a lost cause. BTW, you do realize the Phillip's screws are not really Phillip's screws, but some other type of head, right? there is a post in here in the tech section about the proper drivers to use, but a #2 Phillip's has always worked for me.

January 3rd, 2009, 08:23 PM	#53
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	In the future, it probably will help, but right now it is useless. I did not know that... Though the #2 screwdriver went into the screw head solid. Bike is getting put back together now... As there seems to be nothing else that will be able to get a fully stripped screw out without ripping the carbs out and drilling the screw out...

January 3rd, 2009, 08:27 PM	#54
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	do you have the allens on hand to replace them with right now?

January 3rd, 2009, 08:31 PM	#55
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	No sadly, I do not and the hardware shop has closed for today... I was to caught up trying to get the screw out to realise they closed at 4.30

January 3rd, 2009, 08:43 PM	#56
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Sorry to hear that, but this is why I mentioned leaving a lot of time to do this (or any DIY project, for that matter)... you never know what problem you might encounter.

January 3rd, 2009, 08:49 PM	#57
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Yep, I realise that. But at this stage, I am not confident enough to take the carbs out to drill the screw out, so the only thing I can do is put everything back together.

January 4th, 2009, 10:17 AM	#60
noche_caliente ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Kim Location: mundo de ensueño Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.	Well, I'm a bit late chiming in - sorry I didn't see this last night - one of the tips I've read somewhere, though I'm not sure where, was to be sure to push down on the cap as the spring pushing it back up can cause it to have more pressure and make the screws nearly impossible to remove.... if you're like me you did the three easier ones first and saved the one right under the frame for last - which in addition to being hard to get to, now has more pressure from the spring underneath pushing on it.... Haven't tested this myself, but might be worth trying that one first and then the others.... Again, sorry I popped in so late

January 4th, 2009, 06:41 PM	#65
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Don't be discouraged. You'll work through this and will be all smiles once all the work has been completed. This will change your bike. What would joy be without sorrow?

January 4th, 2009, 07:32 PM	#66
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	It is hard not to be, though I am trying to forget about this and jump in again and get it sorted my self so I can save a good few $100 The guy at the shop said to install the exhaust and it will run fine. I said to him what about rejetting and shimming, the snorkel and Kleen air system removal (the cheaper stuff). He said it will run fine without this and there is too much time involved in all of this for the small HP gains.

January 4th, 2009, 08:02 PM	#67
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Easy for him to say as he's never ridden anything but a stock 250R, plus he's not getting any money out of you doing your own work. Sour kiwi fruit, I say. Personally, I wouldn't trust my bike to any dealer to work on... especially one that has his attitude about this bike. Your real reward will be when the bike is completed and you know the work was done yourself. There is a certain self satisfaction that comes with any modification made. Recover and re energize and we'll be here to help when you pick up.

January 4th, 2009, 08:12 PM	#68
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Yeah, I know. They only have a shop model 250R which has a Yoshi can on it (not a full system) I thought he would have been trying to say yes, do this, that and the next thing and pay us 2 weeks worth of your pay Yeah, after talking to him, has put me off going there for work. I know about the satasfaction part of it. I am just concerned about doing something that will damage the bike and voiding the warranty, though if I take things slow and allow a lot of time to ensure I put everything back as it was I should be all good. I have got my HID headlights on order, so I will be installing them when they arrive

January 13th, 2009, 08:29 PM	#71
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	An update: I have installed the HIDs, take a look at the DIY HID Headlight Conversion thread where I have posted. While I was installing the HIDs, I was feeling confident enough to pull out the carbs to try get the screw out, I followed a DYI on Kawiforums here and got them out, I must say that it was actually easier than what I thought, there are not nearly as many pipes and connections that need to be disconnected as what I thought. With the carbs out, I tried getting a grip on the screw with some vice grips and it came right out (I have now replaced all of the screws with allen heads, I have found they are easier to loosen on an angle and can usually unscrew them with my fingers.) While I was there, I added 2 washers under the needles and remove the snorkel, (I used 4mm washers) Put the carbs back in and everything back together, started up the bike, idle was fine, let it warm up a little and it wouldn't rev past 3000rpm and just died. With a little help from kkim, found out the 4mm washers were too bid for the spring to fully press on the needle and the needle was able to move up and down a fair distance. I replaced the 4mm washers with 3mm ones (the size of the hole) which is 7mm in diameter (compared to the 9mm diameter of the 4mm washers) and all is fine, I have a better sounding bike which is nicer to ride I am currently in the middle of ordering the AP Long CF full exhaust and Dyno jet 100 kit and will be installing these the weekend they arrive

January 13th, 2009, 08:35 PM	#72
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Good job, David. I know for awhile you had your doubts before you found the washer problem. Glad everything worked out. So, with the washer mod... would you say the bike is easier to ride now?

January 15th, 2009, 10:36 PM	#74
SF-Dug ninjette.org member Name: Dug Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r Posts: 81	Interesting discussion here. What would be the difference between shimming and this procedure below and how would it effect the bike in stop and go situations? http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_%270...d-blooded_ogre

January 15th, 2009, 10:42 PM	#75
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Shimming will accomplish the same end result without having to pull the carbs. It will make the bike a lot easier to ride away from a stop as the power will seem "fatter" at the lower revs. have you read this thread? http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...light=shimming

February 3rd, 2009, 11:14 AM	#76
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Right, an update Yesterday the exhaust finally arrived, opened it up and was amazed and the look and quality of it! Tor down the bike and added a needle to each washer (till I install the jet kit on th weekend) Installed the exhaust going by Kelly's DIY here: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10005 It was too late to test it, I didn't get much sleep, I am not sure if it is cause of the exhaust or something else... but tested it this morning and DAMN!!! this thing is perfect!!!! Next step is to install the jet kit this weekend. I had better slow down, or I will run out of mods!! Ha ha ha

February 3rd, 2009, 11:25 AM	#78
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Yes, for price, quality, performance and service, it's hard to beat Area P. Kerry's got a great thing going for our bikes. Once you put the jet kit in, you won't run out of mods... you'll be fiddling with it constantly to get it "just right", believe me.

February 3rd, 2009, 11:53 AM	#79
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Sam, that is very true! Ha ha ha Kelly, he certainly does. I must say that any videos I have seen just do not do the exhaust justice! True.

February 3rd, 2009, 07:06 PM	#80
noche_caliente ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Kim Location: mundo de ensueño Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.