Installing GV Emulators Tomorrow

[cbzdel]

I have read though a couple How To's on installing the GV Emulators, it seems simple enough, almost to simple haha..

I have never taken forks off any bike I have ever owned though, so this will be all new to me. I am pretty good with a wrench though.. Plus I just installed pre-load adjusters a month ago and that was simple!

I am actually going to be installing these on my 2013 Ninja 300, but thought I would post in here since its 250R parts..

I dont have a front stand (yet) so my plan is to put the bike on my rear stand and hang the front of the bike from the rafters, using rachet straps and hooking them to the steering head. . Then remove my clips-ons, and the pre-load adjusters. Then the front tire, then the forks, and then follow the how to from there.. Wash, Rinse, Repeat..

Looks like I will need to still buy fork oil and some extra long allen keys..

That all being said is there anything you guys overlooked that make the project bigger than it looks?

[psych0hans]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

I have read though a couple How To's on installing the GV Emulators, it seems simple enough, almost to simple haha..

I have never taken forks off any bike I have ever owned though, so this will be all new to me. I am pretty good with a wrench though.. Plus I just installed pre-load adjusters a month ago and that was simple!

I am actually going to be installing these on my 2013 Ninja 300, but thought I would post in here since its 250R parts..

I dont have a front stand (yet) so my plan is to put the bike on my rear stand and hang the front of the bike from the rafters, using rachet straps and hooking them to the steering head. . Then remove my clips-ons, and the pre-load adjusters. Then the front tire, then the forks, and then follow the how to from there.. Wash, Rinse, Repeat..

Looks like I will need to still buy fork oil and some extra long allen keys..

That all being said is there anything you guys overlooked that make the project bigger than it looks?

I was an idiot and put in the dampening spring after the dampening rod, than before it, causing me to re-do the entire assembly + dis-assembly twice... Also, you need to make sure the dampening rod doesn't turn with the bolt while removing it. I used a rod with a cloth tied to it to hold it in place. Same while bolting the dampening rod back, I just used a spring + spacer to press it in and then tightened it from the other side. It's not a one man job... Good luck!!!

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by psych0hans

I was an idiot and put in the dampening spring after the dampening rod, than before it, causing me to re-do the entire assembly + dis-assembly twice... Also, you need to make sure the dampening rod doesn't turn with the bolt while removing it. I used a rod with a cloth tied to it to hold it in place. Same while bolting the dampening rod back, I just used a spring + spacer to press it in and then tightened it from the other side. It's not a one man job... Good luck!!!

I rebuilt mine myself. It was a messy job but I found it easy enough even though I'm about the furthest thing from a grease-monkey/gear-head. I had the help of a triple tree head stand so I could work with the tubes mounted and no one needed to hold anything in place, but you can stand a ladder over the bike and strap it up to suspend the forks just the same. I didn't need a bench vice to remove/tighten the drain bolts because I left the forks attached to each other and mounted in the bike with the wheel + fender brace installed and then pulled the axle out just enough to access the bolt on each side (reversed the axle; covered the threads with tape just in case). I also got a puller tool from the plumbing section of the local hardware store for cheap (<$10 US) which, when combined with the triple tree head stand, made removing the caps a snap. Also, no one needs the puller tool because you can push down with anything while the forks are suspended.

I recently took apart a second set of bent forks that was part of a loose triple I bought. I didn't have a bike to install them in like before and I didn't want to remove mine just to use the bike for disassembling these, so I used a $20 electric 12v "emergency" impact wrench on the fork drain bolts. The metric impact hex driver attachment set was as much as the impact wrench itself, but you can probably get away with using standard adapters (<$10) considering that it's only a 12v impact wrench and not heavy-duty (wear safety glasses just in case!). Unfortunately, most are too short. It worked great though. One "ping" and they were out with no fuss. This thing has come in useful for stuck axle nuts, countershaft sprocket removal, stuck drain/rotor/bar-end bolts, etc and it runs off the bike's battery (no need to work in an electrified garage or with an air compressor). The only issues was when I forgot and removed them from the top triple clamp before using my puller but it didn't take much to throw it back on without the rest of the triple.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-67890.html
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece...set-67895.html
with
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...nch-92349.html
and
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

[choneofakind]

cbzdel,

Using a ladder is a great way to support the front end. Here I have it holding the rear, but I've also used it on the front in the past when working on the forks:


Also, if you have a little jack from a car emergency kit, use that and a block of wood to support the engine from below. I'm not sure how easy this will be with a 300; you might have to remove the chin fairings etc.

Just remember to loosen the bolts when the bike is still stable, before the bike is on stands. That makes life easier.

[cbzdel]

Last questions I have, what fork oil weight do I want to use? I went to Cycle Gear and was looking at the oil. The guy asked whe how much I weighed and I told him about 200 geared up and I am setting up the bike for agressive street riding. He told me I want to be at about 8.5 which mix of the 7w and the 10w. Is there any truth to this? Right now a have a quart of 7w and a quard of 10 weight.. I just dont want to put in the wrong weight and then have to do it all over again.

Any input??

[psych0hans]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

Last questions I have, what fork oil weight do I want to use? I went to Cycle Gear and was looking at the oil. The guy asked whe how much I weighed and I told him about 200 geared up and I am setting up the bike for agressive street riding. He told me I want to be at about 8.5 which mix of the 7w and the 10w. Is there any truth to this? Right now a have a quart of 7w and a quard of 10 weight.. I just dont want to put in the wrong weight and then have to do it all over again.

Any input??

Race tech recommended 15 for me and I weigh 170 without gear. I'm currently running 20, but that's because 15 isn't available in india...

[cbzdel]

Hmmm. Where can i get that info on fork oil from race tech? I read through the directions and was searching on their website, didn't find anything.. I had another guy tell me 15w and he weighed less than me.. Maybe i just need to sick with 15w?the store didn't have anything over 15w..

[psych0hans]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

Hmmm. Where can i get that info on fork oil from race tech? I read through the directions and was searching on their website, didn't find anything.. I had another guy tell me 15w and he weighed less than me.. Maybe i just need to sick with 15w?the store didn't have anything over 15w..

I mailed them.Terry Diederichs <Terry@racetech.com> Very helpful.

[cbzdel]

Great thanks... Man i am not having good luck, took me 5 hours to get the fork caps off!! It took me like a half hour to remove the factory ones and install the ssr ones, so why was was it so hard to remove the ssr ones haha

This project is taking way to long, guess i need to actually work on it and quit taking brakes too help other people i know with stuff haha

[cbzdel]

I finally dropped back in the forks tonight..

Bit of an issue..
So i drilled the dampers with the 6 holes
Primed the forks with 15w oil
Dropped in the emulator, set with blue springs and 3 turns preload, springs pointing upward
Filled fork oil to 100mm from top, which is the stock setting on the 300
The stopped in the stock spring, washer and uncut stock spacer
All was sticking up maybe 1"
Then installed ssr preload adjusters, and left them set to zero

My issue is i am getting zero static sag, the bike is on the rebound springs. If sit on the bike i am getting a 1/2 max sag..

I just don't get it.. Peanut EOD a member on here says his set up is exactly the same as this and no issues.. He its also lighter than me...

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

I finally dropped back in the forks tonight..

Bit of an issue..
So i drilled the dampers with the 6 holes
Primed the forks with 15w oil
Dropped in the emulator, set with blue springs and 3 turns preload, springs pointing upward
Filled fork oil to 100mm from top, which is the stock setting on the 300
The stopped in the stock spring, washer and uncut stock spacer
All was sticking up maybe 1"
Then installed ssr preload adjusters, and left them set to zero

My issue is i am getting zero static sag, the bike is on the rebound springs. If sit on the bike i am getting a 1/2 max sag..

I just don't get it.. Peanut EOD a member on here says his set up is exactly the same as this and no issues.. He its also lighter than me...

If I read this right, you put about 2" of preload on your springs. Yea....you ain't goin nowhere.