Carb Help

[msebastian]

So I just took my carbs apart to clean them and to my suprise they were very clean. No oxidation or gunk. But when I took the caps off to look at the needles I found this:



They were not set in place correctly and were pressed under the caps. They are not torn or anything just chewed up on the ends. Do you think they need to be replaced or are the still useable.

Plus I found out the carbs have been jetted and have 100 main jets and stock 38 pilot jets. The needles have been shimmed with the e-clip on the 3rd slot from the top.



Question, the washer in the picture was on top of the the e-clip and not under the e-clip. Is this normal I always thought the washer went under the e-clip and not on top.

By the way the bike has stock exhaust with the air box removed and a K&N airpod directly on the carbs. The bike was bogging at low RPM's but I believe that was due to the kleen air system having the hoses not connected to anything when I purchased the bike. I installed a SSR block off plate and removed the kleen air system completely.

[Motofool]

If you replace the diaphragms carefully, they should be OK.

They are nothing but vacuum actuators for moving the needles up and down.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by Motofool

If you replace the diaphragms carefully, they should be OK.

They are nothing but vacuum actuators for moving the needles up and down.

I was thinking they would be okay. I will be extra careful when putting them back in.

Does anyone have an answer for the needle and washer question. I am thinking about putting it back together with the needle under the e-clip and see if that changes anything.

[choneofakind]

Putting the washer under the clip will raise the needle further. Needle height adjusts the mix in the mid-range.

Put them in so they're both the same, and see if the needle height needs changed.

[Jiggles]

Having the washer on top of the needle supposedly helps to weight it down but there is a spring for that so who really knows

[msebastian]

Well there was a washer stuck in each of the diphrams. So there was a washer on top and a washer on the bottom of the needle. I am just going to put it back together as is and decide if I need to make changes.

[msebastian]

I figured I would try something out and put both washers under the e-clip and now the bike will not run without full choke on. So I am going to go back to 1 on top and 1 below and see how that goes. This is the first time I started the bike since removing the kleen air and putting on the block off plate. But the kleen air hoses were not connected to anything and were basically sucking air so hopefully the original washer positions will get me back to where I was. Just trying some things out to see what works best.

[msebastian]

Put the washers back the way they were e-clip on 3rd slot from the top with 1 washer on top and 1 washer on bottom and the bike is the same.

Does the bike really change that much from removing the kleen air system with the SSR block off plate.

Is there anything else that would cause the bike to only run with full choke like reinstalling something improperly.

[choneofakind]

Are all your vacuum hoses routed and installed properly? That causes some issues. @rojoracing53 made a really good video a while back that illustrated how badly a bike runs when the vacuum hoses are leaking or mis-routed.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Are all your vacuum hoses routed and installed properly? That causes some issues. @rojoracing53 made a really good video a while back that illustrated how badly a bike runs when the vacuum hoses are leaking or mis-routed.

I am pretty sure they are properly installed. I will try and get a diagram and see if I have them correct.

[lgk]

if you put both washers under the clip then it should be richer.

did you plug the kleen air hose coming off the petcock vac tube?
if not you got a vacuum leak.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by lgk

if you put both washers under the clip then it should be richer.

did you plug the kleen air hose coming off the petcock vac tube?
if not you got a vacuum leak.

Are you talking about the T if so then yes I put a 3/16 vacuum plug on the top part of the T.

Here is a couple pictures of the carb:

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Are all your vacuum hoses routed and installed properly? That causes some issues. @rojoracing53 made a really good video a while back that illustrated how badly a bike runs when the vacuum hoses are leaking or mis-routed.

The bike sounds fine when running it just has to be on full choke.

[msebastian]

I am going to call newb here and put the fault on myself. I did not let the the bike warm up properly and that is why it is not running without full choke. I thought that since I am in a heated garage the bike does not have to go through the full warm up process. But the bike has not been started in several days so it seems it still does.

But I did think the bike ran better even on full choke with the 2 washers under the e-clip. I will test it out tomorrow with a small ride and see what works best.

[rojoracing53]

If your bike performs like this then it's a leak.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

If your bike performs like this then it's a leak.

Link to original page on YouTube.

No it does not perform like that. It idled normal on full choke and then reved high after a few minutes, then I took the choke off and the bike idled normal with no choke. I am thinking the bike was just not warmed up enough. I did have the garage door open for most of the day so the garage was cold but I did close the door and let it warm up some before I started the bike. Was probably just a cold bike, but I do think that it could use some higher jets and possibly some fuel adjustment. Plus I shut the bike off and restarted the bike several times with no choke and it started and idled just fine. I plan on doing some adjustments tomorrow and see what the bike likes.

[rojoracing53]

I can't recommend enough the dinojet stage one jet kit with a quality full quite core exhaust system. My bike starts in the low 30s with no choke and as soon as the motor hits 80deg(30-60 secs) I'm off with no problems.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

I can't recommend enough the dinojet stage one jet kit with a quality full quite core exhaust system. My bike starts in the low 30s with no choke and as soon as the motor hits 80deg(30-60 secs) I'm off with no problems.

I believe it is a dynojet stage 2 kit with a 100 main, stock 38 pilot, and e-clip on the 3rd slot down and now with 2 washers under the e-clip.

I took the bike on a couple trial rides this morning with no washers, then 1 washer, and then 2 washers under the e-clip and the bike really likes the 2 washers. I do not know where the fuel adjustment screws are set at but I am not going to touch them since the bike was riding so well this morning. I also was able to start the bike up with no choke this morning with no washers. I am letting the bike cool down to see if the bike starts up no choke with the 2 washers. I am getting ready to tackle the 15/42T sprocket swap when the garage warms up some.

[Motofool]

It may be harder to re-start when hot now.

If so, crack open the throttle while cranking it up.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by Motofool

It may be harder to re-start when hot now.

If so, crack open the throttle while cranking it up.

The bike starts fine at all stages now. I am very happy with the bike and how well it runs and performs. I just need to do my 15/42T sprocket swap with my new chain, but I can not get that stupid front bolt off. I will be going to my dad's shop later and put the impact to it, should come right off.

[choneofakind]

Breaker bar. Get a piece of metal pipe about 2.5 feet long. Slip it over the handle of your ratchet.

When re-tightening it, make sure you use a torque wrench. No sense in making it uber hard in the future (or making it too loose and loosing a sprocket )