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Old February 19th, 2013, 11:09 AM   #1
nick5446
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Jetting on my race bike

I've got a 2009 250r race bike that I'm in the process of tuning and re-jetting. Dyno time is crazy expensive, and since the bike isn't street legal, I'm trying to get everything as close as possible before taking it to the dyno. Can you help me try to skip some trial and error? Believe me, I know no two bikes are alike, but any time you can save me at the dyno (about $200/hr and dealing with the jerk who runs it) will be greatly appreciated.

I've read over the Jetting Database and I think I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do, just looking for some affirmation. Can you help me fill in the blanks?


YEAR: 2009

INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: Stock airbox w/ K&N filter

EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: Slip on DanMoto CF w/ stock header

JET KIT OR STOCK? Stock for now

BRAND OF JET KIT? Probably DynoJet although any experience with the eBay brand 6Sigma? They supposedly build to suit based on your specific info.

MAIN JET: XX

NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: XX

MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: XX

ELEVATION: 0-100ft

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR BIKE’S JETTING SETUP: Nothing special. Race only.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 12:25 PM   #2
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Stock airbox and stock headers, shim the needles and your done
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Old February 19th, 2013, 12:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
Stock airbox and stock headers, shim the needles and your done
you are incorrect, jiggles.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #4
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Thanks! You guys both have ridiculous avatars.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 12:39 PM   #5
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it really depends on the atmosphere that you plan on running the bike in. i honestly would just do small changes between rounds at the races if you are able. dyno runs are expensive.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 12:40 PM   #6
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Buy and install an AFR gauge, its basically a portable dyno!

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old February 19th, 2013, 01:05 PM   #7
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Buy and install an AFR gauge, its basically a portable dyno!
correct!
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Old February 19th, 2013, 01:07 PM   #8
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If you're racing a ninja 250 and only racing it then you should acquire a full exhaust system. Area P is doing a group buy for their race systems right now on this forum. look around the marketplace.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 01:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
Buy and install an AFR gauge, its basically a portable dyno!

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

I'm going to have to look into those. I've seen them, but never paid much attention. Got any more information you could point me towards?
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Old February 19th, 2013, 01:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailerboy531 View Post
If you're racing a ninja 250 and only racing it then you should acquire a full exhaust system. Area P is doing a group buy for their race systems right now on this forum. look around the marketplace.
Yeah, I know. I'll pick up a header one of these days, just gotta save some $. I really only did the slip on for weight, the performance gain is marginal.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 01:58 PM   #11
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I'm going to have to look into those. I've seen them, but never paid much attention. Got any more information you could point me towards?
Well at the dyno, the dyno measures your hp but its not possible to tune without an afr gauge. Shoving one down your exhaust pipe is not the greatest method to get accurate numbers. So long as you don't care about what the actual hp numbers are you can just tune with an afr gauge. If you get your afr to the correct ratios then you will know that your bike is producing the most amount of power possible, you just won't know what that power is.

I got mine from innovate, I think it was under $200, then you have to get it installed, but it is a permanent solution whereas a dyno is a solution for say February 19th, 12:56pm, 46degrees farenheit, 85 feet elevation, Humidty 99%, etc....
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Old February 19th, 2013, 02:05 PM   #12
nick5446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
Well at the dyno, the dyno measures your hp but its not possible to tune without an afr gauge. Shoving one down your exhaust pipe is not the greatest method to get accurate numbers. So long as you don't care about what the actual hp numbers are you can just tune with an afr gauge. If you get your afr to the correct ratios then you will know that your bike is producing the most amount of power possible, you just won't know what that power is.

I got mine from innovate, I think it was under $200, then you have to get it installed, but it is a permanent solution whereas a dyno is a solution for say February 19th, 12:56pm, 46degrees farenheit, 85 feet elevation, Humidty 99%, etc....
Yeah that's cool. Like you alluded to, I don't care how much power I've got, just as long as it's the MOST!

What do you want the reading to be?
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Old February 19th, 2013, 02:33 PM   #13
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Ideally around 12.6-13.2 but tuning these CV carbs that precisely is really difficult. If you watch my runs my afr goes rich then lean then rich, thats a byproduct of the pod filters I have in there. The stock airbox should be a lot easier to tune
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Old February 19th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
Ideally around 12.6-13.2 but tuning these CV carbs that precisely is really difficult. If you watch my runs my afr goes rich then lean then rich, thats a byproduct of the pod filters I have in there. The stock airbox should be a lot easier to tune
Yeah I've been looking into it a bit more. Is there a rule of thumb, in terms of max/min, or a certain afr to rpm? I.e. never below 9 or above 16, or at X RPM you should have an AFR of Y.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 03:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick5446 View Post
Yeah I've been looking into it a bit more. Is there a rule of thumb, in terms of max/min, or a certain afr to rpm? I.e. never below 9 or above 16, or at X RPM you should have an AFR of Y.
Well no, at WOT you always want an AFR in that range, it kinda depends on the engine as to whats best and I've seen lots of differing opinions, but without EFI its not like you'll be able to tune for 13.0 vs 12.8. If you aren't at WOT its fine if your AFR is higher but you definitely don't want to be WOT in the 14s
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Old February 19th, 2013, 03:39 PM   #16
nick5446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
Well no, at WOT you always want an AFR in that range, it kinda depends on the engine as to whats best and I've seen lots of differing opinions, but without EFI its not like you'll be able to tune for 13.0 vs 12.8. If you aren't at WOT its fine if your AFR is higher but you definitely don't want to be WOT in the 14s
Cool, I think that's exactly what I need. My home track has a straight that's about a mile long, so I'll be sitting on the throttle stop for a while.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 04:19 PM   #17
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I've still got the issue of experimenting with the AFR gauge with a bike that's not road-legal. Maybe I'll just try to get it close and play with it in between sessions, as mentioned earlier.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 12:06 AM   #18
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Hey Jiggles - how do you like the Innovate AFR meter ? I rented the UEGO one and it helped.
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